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Old 01-02-18, 01:58 PM
  #4776  
carleton
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My current setup:

- Military spec Camelback rucksack. It has a water bladder but I don't use it.
- Inside:
- - Track sack (see above)
- - Shoes, kit, extra clothes if needed (arm warmers, skull cap, etc...)
- - 2 water bottles (Gatorade, Water)
- - Canister of Gatorade powder.
- - Heart rate monitor
- - 1 or 2 helmets can clip on to the D-rings attached to the outside (normal helmet, Casco case)
- - A camping chair can be attached
- - Random stuff

All of this fits on my back. I can also put a double wheel bag on my shoulder after mounting the backpack. This leaves my hands free to handle the bike with one hand and hold rollers with the other.

1 trip from the parking lot

I don't carry all of that every time I go to the track. But it's not uncommon to have that much on a big race day. The key is the backpack as a firm foundation. It's designed to hold a lot of weight without sagging or stretching.

Mine is similar to these but black. Mine is still sort of different. It's a few years old. Note the big side pockets. Each one can hold a huge Nalgene bottle. I took off the drinking hose



Last edited by carleton; 01-02-18 at 02:02 PM.
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Old 01-02-18, 02:06 PM
  #4777  
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A minor gripe: I don't like the material that a lot of track sacks are made of. Track sacks are often laid out on infield cement and dragged/kicked about. This prematurely wears on the canvas. They often get saggy and floppy with time, too.
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Old 01-02-18, 02:36 PM
  #4778  
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Originally Posted by carleton View Post
A minor gripe: I don't like the material that a lot of track sacks are made of. Track sacks are often laid out on infield cement and dragged/kicked about. This prematurely wears on the canvas. They often get saggy and floppy with time, too.
I have thought about this too. Maybe a second layer of PVC coated Nylon on the outside. It can even be retrofitted to older bags/saks/folders. Just take out the binding on the outside perimeter of the bag, and rebind with the PVC coated Nylon on the exterior.
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Old 01-02-18, 03:24 PM
  #4779  
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Originally Posted by taras0000 View Post
I have thought about this too. Maybe a second layer of PVC coated Nylon on the outside. It can even be retrofitted to older bags/saks/folders. Just take out the binding on the outside perimeter of the bag, and rebind with the PVC coated Nylon on the exterior.
It's funny that you mention that. When I made my current track sack, a fellow racer (can't recall his name) asked me what I was gonna do with the old worn one. I said he could have it. I think he saw that it was reparable and upgradeable. I pointed out the things that were worn and he said he could fix them.
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Old 01-02-18, 05:45 PM
  #4780  
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I have the BLS velodrome bag and I like it with some caveat and some possibilities to make it better.

It can carry everything that I need for s single day of racing except cold food and the expected bigger parts/tools/accessories like racing wheels, floor pump and rollers.
I can fit in the middle part: helmet, shoes, skinsuit, race number, a bottle of water, a second water bottle or a bottle of sunscreen, snacks, sunglasses and gloves.
The side part can take all the usual that a track tote would: 5x Chainrings, 5x cogs (which I instead use for more allen keys), a small torque wrench (even more necessary now with the TK FRD stem system), a full set of allen keys 2mm- 10mm, chainwhip and my 15mm box ratchet.

This setup makes it that the tools unbalance the bag and make it awkward to carry. This could be fixed by adding some chainring pockets to the other side (cause we always need more chainrings right ?). The switch to a backpack would be appreciated too.
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Old 01-02-18, 06:00 PM
  #4781  
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After having used one for work for over a year now, I would definitely buy the Milwaukee jobsite backpack (Model 48-22-8200) as a dedicated track day bag.

https://www.protoolreviews.com/tools...-review/12941/


The back pocket has a laptop sleeve and is deep enough to accomodate shoes and some riding clothes. A helmet can fit into the front bulk pouch. There are plenty of pockets inside that will hold your tools, and there is enough room in the tool section to accomodate a chainring bag.

Just weighed my work bag and it's been holding 52lbs of tools daily for the last year and a bit, so it is durable and will last.

Edit: The CLC (Custom Leathercraft) 1134 backpack is a less expensive yet similar version. It seems to be larger, just not as durably built.

Last edited by taras0000; 01-02-18 at 11:50 PM.
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Old 01-06-18, 04:50 PM
  #4782  
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Hey y'all, I have a small, random track question. I currently have 40cm Pro Vibe track bars on my bike. I'm toying with the idea of going to a narrower bar this season, 35-37cm, but before I do I was curious about how a narrower bar affects handling, drop/reach being similar.
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Old 01-06-18, 05:30 PM
  #4783  
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Originally Posted by cfreemanpt View Post
Hey y'all, I have a small, random track question. I currently have 40cm Pro Vibe track bars on my bike. I'm toying with the idea of going to a narrower bar this season, 35-37cm, but before I do I was curious about how a narrower bar affects handling, drop/reach being similar.
i think it depends on the rider. somebody who has a weak core, bad weight distribution, and tends to forcibly steer the bike might feel like it affects handling badly. but somebody who doesn't do that stuff is likely to feel a pretty negligible effect.

when i put 36cm bars on my bike, i also put a 10mm longer stem, and feel like i could even go longer (though that's also due to the new bars having a very shallow drop) - so, consider the effect of new bars on the rest of your setup.

i have a set of 36cm Zipps i'd like to get rid of - feel free to hit me up if you want to experiment with something a lot cheaper than the expensive narrow track bars.
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Old 01-07-18, 12:35 PM
  #4784  
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Originally Posted by queerpunk View Post
i think it depends on the rider. somebody who has a weak core, bad weight distribution, and tends to forcibly steer the bike might feel like it affects handling badly. but somebody who doesn't do that stuff is likely to feel a pretty negligible effect.

when i put 36cm bars on my bike, i also put a 10mm longer stem, and feel like i could even go longer (though that's also due to the new bars having a very shallow drop) - so, consider the effect of new bars on the rest of your setup.

i have a set of 36cm Zipps i'd like to get rid of - feel free to hit me up if you want to experiment with something a lot cheaper than the expensive narrow track bars.
+1

cfreemanpt, just understand that it's gonna feel different and don't give up on them after 1 or 2 rides. Whenever you try whatever bars you try, give them a fair shot of at least 4 sessions.

As queerpunk points out, the geo will change, so if you feel like you need a stem that's 2-4cm longer than before, go with it, as many of the narrow bars are also shorter in reach combined with the fact that when your arms are wide apart then come in closer, they push your back up. To get back down, you have to reach out more. This is one reason why you see 130 and 140mm stems mated with narrow bars.

Last edited by carleton; 01-07-18 at 12:43 PM.
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Old 01-10-18, 11:27 PM
  #4785  
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Decent end plugs for 3T Minstrel Aero Bars

Iím looking for some decent end plugs for 3T Minstrel Aero Bars. Something of substance and not completely flat and cut off at the end.

I canít seem to find anything out there but the cheap plastic end caps from 3T or the caps with the hole in them for TT bar shifter cables.

Any ideas?
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Old 01-10-18, 11:53 PM
  #4786  
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Originally Posted by krispenhartung View Post
Iím looking for some decent end plugs for 3T Minstrel Aero Bars. Something of substance and not completely flat and cut off at the end.

I canít seem to find anything out there but the cheap plastic end caps from 3T or the caps with the hole in them for TT bar shifter cables.

Any ideas?
Wine corks if you want something different.
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Old 01-11-18, 05:34 AM
  #4787  
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Originally Posted by krispenhartung View Post
Iím looking for some decent end plugs for 3T Minstrel Aero Bars. Something of substance and not completely flat and cut off at the end.

I canít seem to find anything out there but the cheap plastic end caps from 3T or the caps with the hole in them for TT bar shifter cables.

Any ideas?
Find somebody with a 3d printer and print some in whatever shape you want.

I made bullet shaped plugs for my bars.

Zipp also (at least used to) make some rounded plugs that are similar.
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Old 01-11-18, 08:09 AM
  #4788  
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Originally Posted by krispenhartung View Post
Iím looking for some decent end plugs for 3T Minstrel Aero Bars. Something of substance and not completely flat and cut off at the end.

I canít seem to find anything out there but the cheap plastic end caps from 3T or the caps with the hole in them for TT bar shifter cables.

Any ideas?
https://www.shopforwatts.co.uk/colle...ro-accessories
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Old 01-11-18, 08:53 AM
  #4789  
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Originally Posted by Morelock View Post
Find somebody with a 3d printer and print some in whatever shape you want.

I made bullet shaped plugs for my bars.

Zipp also (at least used to) make some rounded plugs that are similar.
Cool. The Zipp may work.
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Old 01-11-18, 04:26 PM
  #4790  
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Originally Posted by krispenhartung View Post
Iím looking for some decent end plugs for 3T Minstrel Aero Bars. Something of substance and not completely flat and cut off at the end.

I canít seem to find anything out there but the cheap plastic end caps from 3T or the caps with the hole in them for TT bar shifter cables.

Any ideas?
Profile has them, very cheap. Email them.
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Old 01-20-18, 06:10 PM
  #4791  
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I'd like to use my HED H3 track clincher front wheel on m TT bike, but I'd like to find some lower profile (thinner?) track bolts that are more aero and don't stick out as far, or perhaps some sort of cover for them. Anyone know if a solution?
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Old 01-21-18, 12:40 PM
  #4792  
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Originally Posted by krispenhartung View Post
I'd like to use my HED H3 track clincher front wheel on m TT bike, but I'd like to find some lower profile (thinner?) track bolts that are more aero and don't stick out as far, or perhaps some sort of cover for them. Anyone know if a solution?
Are you looking for track bolts or track nuts? If it's track nuts, I just noticed my zipp nuts are the smallest in my collection. If it uses 5mm bolts, the system that surly uses on their ultra new hubs are the smallest I could find.
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Old 01-21-18, 12:53 PM
  #4793  
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Originally Posted by MarkWW View Post
Are you looking for track bolts or track nuts? If it's track nuts, I just noticed my zipp nuts are the smallest in my collection. If it uses 5mm bolts, the system that surly uses on their ultra new hubs are the smallest I could find.
track nuts. I'll check out the Zipp..just something not so thick that sticks out less would work. thanks
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Old 01-21-18, 04:42 PM
  #4794  
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Originally Posted by krispenhartung View Post
track nuts. I'll check out the Zipp..just something not so thick that sticks out less would work. thanks


Here in order are a zipp, dura ace, and formula track nut. Note these are all rear 10x1mm nuts.
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Old 01-21-18, 05:19 PM
  #4795  
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This here is some serious "marginal gains" stuff...
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Old 01-21-18, 05:54 PM
  #4796  
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Originally Posted by Baby Puke View Post
This here is some serious "marginal gains" stuff...
Seriously.

In the CdA forumula, the A being saved here is literally measured in millimeters..maybe smaller. The percentage gain over the entire system is less than 1/1000th of a percent?

You'd do better by taking a file to parts of your bike

Originally Posted by MarkWW View Post


Here in order are a zipp, dura ace, and formula track nut. Note these are all rear 10x1mm nuts.

I came to write that the Zipp nuts have the most narrow "shoulders". So narrow that they are frustrating to use on Zipp Discs as the 15mm wrench will often hop off when torquing them down.

They are probably difficult to find as Zipp no longer makes wheels that use such nuts.

Dura Ace is your best bet in terms of size, quality, and availability. Given the opporutunity, one should probably replace the nuts on all track wheels with DA nuts.

One note: DA front and DA rear nuts have different thread pitches. BUT, budget hubs will often use the same pitch for both front and rear.

DA nuts are pricey but worth it as the built-in washer on them last much longer than cheaper nuts.
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Old 01-21-18, 06:35 PM
  #4797  
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Is it sad that after I wrote my reply, I started thinking about those plastic caps that come on little kids bikes to cover the wheel nuts and whether they are more aero or not?

On a side note, my track nuts that came with my hed wheels look exactly like dura ace nuts. It wouldn't surprise me if they were.
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Old 01-22-18, 12:07 AM
  #4798  
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Originally Posted by carleton View Post
Seriously.

In the CdA forumula, the A being saved here is literally measured in millimeters..maybe smaller. The percentage gain over the entire system is less than 1/1000th of a percent?
.............................
I agree that smaller nuts will have a negligible on CdA. Maybe buy a pair of aero socks that tonight's World Cup commentator mentioned.
I found this site after the race finished https://www.rule28.com/the-science/
However I am somewhat skeptical until I see tests based on a moving leg.
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Old 01-22-18, 01:57 AM
  #4799  
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Originally Posted by 700wheel View Post
I agree that smaller nuts will have a negligible on CdA. Maybe buy a pair of aero socks that tonight's World Cup commentator mentioned.
I found this site after the race finished https://www.rule28.com/the-science/
However I am somewhat skeptical until I see tests based on a moving leg.
Or we could save $35 and simply wear no socks at all:



The gains over no socks seem to be within the margin of error of most power meters, +/1 0.5% (1% total error).

At the level at which those ladies and gents race, it makes a difference. But, not sure about for us mere mortals


EDIT:
And, yes, the margins may be even smaller when the leg is chopping up air that has already been chopped by the front wheel, fork, and down tube.
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Old 01-22-18, 05:30 AM
  #4800  
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aero socks depend a lot on the person wearing them and their pedaling style, and likely how vertical your lower leg stays. Trip socks are the hardest to nail down, because you also have an element of user error when putting them on.
I tested a few pair a while back... trip socks were best (although the rule28's and their clones weren't out yet. Part of the premise behind them is that they remove the human factor and possibility of screwing it up) for me... and it was more than outside the margin of error. However, that's n=1... Wiggins wore trip socks for his hour and no socks for team pursuit... so take from that what you will. A fellow on ST tested shoes, a boa dial "chunky" tri shoe vs. super slick Team GB approved custom Simmons shoes and found almost no difference, yet others found large gains going from boa shoes to lace ups. (again, I imagine a lot of that depends on how flat your foot is through the pedalstroke)

Like everything to do with aerodynamics if you don't test you are really just guessing... you can make educated guesses, but no promises if it worked for 99 people out of 100 that it'll work for you.

*Funny thing I heard, Jim Manton (from Erosports) helped the US Women's Pursuit team for Rio... they tested a LOT of socks. The best ones they found? The socks that Assos had given them to train in. (Not the socks Assos planned as aero socks) The problem was nobody at Assos had kept that "recipe" around, so the women ended up using those stark white socks because that's all they had.

I agree though, the safe/cost effective solution is shaved legs and hidden socks.
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