Cyclocross and Gravelbiking (Recreational) This has to be the most physically intense sport ever invented. It's high speed bicycle racing on a short off road course or riding the off pavement rides on gravel like :The Dirty Kanza". We also have a dedicated Racing forum for the Cyclocross Hard Core Racers.

Wiki list of Gravel tires

Old 12-19-16, 11:11 AM
  #26  
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Yep, you would think they would have some consistency for the same tire. Imagine my disappointment as I had perfectly good 28 Gravelkings on the bike and another new pair in the drawer. Paid more than usual (LBS) for the 32s and they aren't any bigger.
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Old 12-19-16, 07:27 PM
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These issues really become a concern when you start looking at sizes that may be too big, if they end up bigger than advertised, or not big enough, should they come in smaller. Of course there are many differences that can change a tire size, internal rim width for instance. But when one is comparing two same branded tires on the same rim and getting varying sizes it can make it hard to know what will fit when looking at max width.
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Old 01-21-17, 07:30 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by chas58 View Post
Maxxis Rambler 40c and 38c tubless

Size: 40c, actual measurement at 37mm
Size 38c: actual measurement 34mm
tread pattern: small knobs for dry conditions
construction: 120 tpi, flat protection, tubeless ready.
performance on pavement: excellent. Similar to road tires.
performance on firm and smooth gravel. Excellent – easy to transition from dirt to grass to pavement
performance on deep or soft gravel: Not bad.
durability
ride: reputed to be compliant for a tubeless tire. The don’t feel particularly firm or harsh to me, but it is winter time.

What rims were you measuring them on and what's the internal width? Looking at getting a new set of gravel tires but have a slight limitation of frame clearance in the rear. Thanks
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Old 01-21-17, 09:24 AM
  #29  
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On top of the width variation, my mechanic friend was telling me that lots of cross and gravel tires have problems with non-straight treads and carcasses. Perhaps the relatively large size magnifies the distortions. But yeah, the size printed on a tire is only vaguely connected to the actual width of that tire.
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Old 01-21-17, 12:17 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Ben I. View Post
What rims were you measuring them on and what's the internal width? Looking at getting a new set of gravel tires but have a slight limitation of frame clearance in the rear. Thanks
I don't get much variation with rim width, but these specific rims are 19mm internal width. I do get a little rubbing in the rear under full power.
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Old 01-21-17, 02:02 PM
  #31  
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I've been using the Challenge Gravel Grinders (marked 38mm width and about true to size) that came stock on my Ridley X-Trail and really like them but planning on going tubeless with my new wheelbuild. Also looking for a little bit smaller tire since I also have some tire rub on the frame on the chainstays (on both of them).

Thanks for getting back to me chas58!

Edit: At least with the Gravel Grinder tires, there was no noticeable difference in tire width between the stock DT Swiss R23 Splines and the new wheels which have Belgium+ rims. I was a little surprised to see that since I've heard wider rims usually mean the tire will get a little wider as well.

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Old 02-21-17, 10:59 AM
  #32  
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700x36 tubeless Clement MSO: X'PLOR MSO | Clement Cycling, Cyclocross Tires, Adventure Tires, Mountain Bike Tires, Road Bike Tires
  • size: 700x36, about 37.1mm wide
  • tread pattern: tightly packed small knobs for mostly dry conditions
  • construction: unknown tpi, has flat protection, tubeless
  • performance on pavement is excellent for a knobby tire. It's like most touring tires this size with secure cornering on wet or dry pavement.
  • performance on firm gravel is excellent, with excellent cornering and braking
  • performance on deep or soft gravel is very good with good control and sufficient volume over rough surfaces. Excellent braking in soft conditions. Cornering performance and float on soft surfaces is limited by the lack of bigger knobs on the shoulder.
  • durability: good so far
  • ride: smooth and plush

The tubeless MSO is easy to mount. I've installed the tire on two rims, one from Alex and another from Impulse. Both tire installations were easy using a conventional floor pump. I coated the rim and tire in the bead area with soapy water and the tire seated itself quickly.

The tubeless version of the MSO is more versatile than the tube version. It fits more bikes, including most Cyclocross bikes, due to the smaller size. It feels much lighter and is. It rolls faster at 55psi and has excellent soft gravel performance at 40psi. It rides smoother than the already smooth 700x40.

The tire is a great all-around performer.
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Old 02-21-17, 07:37 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Barrettscv View Post
700x36 tubeless Clement MSO: X'PLOR MSO | Clement Cycling, Cyclocross Tires, Adventure Tires, Mountain Bike Tires, Road Bike Tires

The tire is a great all-around performer.
I have liked mine so far, however, after mounting them on a new set of rims I noticed an "imperfection" on one of the tires in the pattern. It has a very obvious deviation to the pattern, almost appeared the wheel was severely out of true, possibly wouldn't have noticed but I was spinning the wheel in my hand to spread the sealant. Putting the wheel in the truing stand showed it was the tire itself. I don't think it will cause any real issues but it is very obvious, and on the front wheel now...
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Old 02-22-17, 01:10 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by af2nr View Post
I have liked mine so far, however, after mounting them on a new set of rims I noticed an "imperfection" on one of the tires in the pattern. It has a very obvious deviation to the pattern, almost appeared the wheel was severely out of true, possibly wouldn't have noticed but I was spinning the wheel in my hand to spread the sealant. Putting the wheel in the truing stand showed it was the tire itself. I don't think it will cause any real issues but it is very obvious, and on the front wheel now...
Yeah I had that problem a lot when I first had tubless tires/rims. I didnt' realize it at first, but the bead was not seating evenly against the rim. It can be a nightmare to get right, until I read of a simple trick:

Put soapy water along the tire bead, this allows it to slip into place without getting hung up.
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Old 02-22-17, 02:24 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by af2nr View Post
I have liked mine so far, however, after mounting them on a new set of rims I noticed an "imperfection" on one of the tires in the pattern. It has a very obvious deviation to the pattern, almost appeared the wheel was severely out of true, possibly wouldn't have noticed but I was spinning the wheel in my hand to spread the sealant.
Originally Posted by chas58 View Post
Yeah I had that problem a lot when I first had tubless tires/rims. I didnt' realize it at first, but the bead was not seating evenly against the rim. It can be a nightmare to get right, until I read of a simple trick:

Put soapy water along the tire bead, this allows it to slip into place without getting hung up.
I agree, 9 out of 10 tire "imperfections" are due to bead seating issues, not tire casing issues. The bead gets caught inboard of the bead shelf, and the tread is pulled down.

It can happen with tubeless rims and tires, or with standard rims and tires.

Lubricating the bead when mounting helps a lot. I use laundry soap, because the laundry is close to my bench. I just dip my finger in the half-filled cap and drag it across the bead.

It also helps to check the bead when the tire pressure is still low, like 15-20 psi. At that pressure, you should be able to massage the tire bead up into its channel with your thumbs.
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Old 02-22-17, 05:58 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by chas58 View Post
Yeah I had that problem a lot when I first had tubless tires/rims. I didnt' realize it at first, but the bead was not seating evenly against the rim. It can be a nightmare to get right, until I read of a simple trick:

Put soapy water along the tire bead, this allows it to slip into place without getting hung up.
I've been doing this the 3 years I've been running tubeless and it usually helps quite a bit, however this tire has been mounted multiple times by multiple people with the same result... It was also checked at low pressure the last time, throughout the process. The Iron Cross rims are only rated to 45 psi and I've yet to go over 40 in setting them up or using them. After multiple attempts at "correcting" the deviated bead I took them to my LBS and we went through the whole process again with the same result. Maybe one spot continues to not seat evenly but that would seem rather strange when going through the process multiple times?
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Old 02-22-17, 09:25 PM
  #37  
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700x30 Michelin Cyclocross Jet and 700x30 Michelin Mud2.

Both these tires are closer to 32 mm in practice. These tires in theory work pretty well tubeless, though they're not intended to be. I've only used them with tubes. The Jet is a modern take on a file tread tire, not tons of tread. The Mud2 has some more serious side knobs, but still rolls pretty well because the tread doesn't really protrude that much. Both are fine on firm packed dirt/gravel. The Mud2 is about 1000x more confidence-inspiring when cornering on gravel thanks to actually having some side knobs. The Mud2 is also still quite capable when things get tacky or wet. The Jet is pretty poor in those conditions. I don't think most people will be happy with the low volume of either one. They do roll fast. Of the two, I prefer the Mud2, it feels a lot more secure. Ride is fine as far as I'm concerned, but it is only a 32 mm tire.

Originally Posted by Tim_Iowa View Post
I agree, 9 out of 10 tire "imperfections" are due to bead seating issues, not tire casing issues. The bead gets caught inboard of the bead shelf, and the tread is pulled down.

It can happen with tubeless rims and tires, or with standard rims and tires.
IME it happens quite a lot with tubed tires on tubeless-ready rims. It's caught me off-guard because I have a wheelset with Velocity A23 rims that I didn't buy with any thought toward using them tubeless, at the time, didn't even know they were tubeless compatible. So I was confused when they turned out to be so darn sticky.
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Old 02-23-17, 10:46 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by grolby View Post
IME it happens quite a lot with tubed tires on tubeless-ready rims. It's caught me off-guard because I have a wheelset with Velocity A23 rims that I didn't buy with any thought toward using them tubeless, at the time, didn't even know they were tubeless compatible. So I was confused when they turned out to be so darn sticky.
Tubeless-ready rims tend to have tighter tolerance for better sealing. This can cause difficult tire mounting, but a well-designed tubeless rim should have an inner rim design that encourages the tire bead to slide outward into its correct place against the rim bead.

That's not always the case, sadly.

Personally, none of tubeless-ready rims (Pacenti PL23, Stan's Iron Cross, and Sun Ringle Mulefut) have problems with the tire bead getting "captured" down in the channel. But they're all difficult in other ways; they're tough to get the tire over the bead. And the Mulefuts are crazy difficult to remove a tire from.

My worst rims for bead seating problems have been cheapo Weinmann ZAC19. These rims have gained a reputation for this problem. Even with soap on the bead, I usually need to stop inflation around 20 psi and manually persuade the tire bead up into the bead seat on the rim in several spots on each tire. Exasperation.

Some have solved this problem by adding a second layer of rim tape, to give the tire less room down in channel. Fat bikers have long used foam strips down in the channel when setting up non-tubeless-ready rims, for the same reason.
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Old 02-27-17, 07:58 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by af2nr View Post
I've been doing this the 3 years I've been running tubeless and it usually helps quite a bit, however this tire has been mounted multiple times by multiple people with the same result... It was also checked at low pressure the last time, throughout the process. The Iron Cross rims are only rated to 45 psi and I've yet to go over 40 in setting them up or using them. After multiple attempts at "correcting" the deviated bead I took them to my LBS and we went through the whole process again with the same result. Maybe one spot continues to not seat evenly but that would seem rather strange when going through the process multiple times?
Last night, I helped my girlfriend mount a 700 x 40 Gravel King (42 actual) on an Iron Cross rim (with a tube). The tire bead was down in the channel in a couple spots. I lowered the pressure and tried to massage the bead in place, to no avail. Eventually, I pumped the tire up to 70 psi and that snapped the bead in place all around.

I wouldn't ride the Iron Cross rims at 70 psi, but it was safe enough for mounting. YMMV
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Old 02-27-17, 12:21 PM
  #40  
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@canklecat @Tim_Iowa , This thread is going way off topic, can we get back to tire reviews, please?

The following thread is a better place for tubeless installation discussions: http://www.bikeforums.net/recreation...xperience.html
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Old 02-27-17, 04:15 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Tim_Iowa View Post
Last night, I helped my girlfriend mount a 700 x 40 Gravel King (42 actual) on an Iron Cross rim (with a tube). The tire bead was down in the channel in a couple spots. I lowered the pressure and tried to massage the bead in place, to no avail. Eventually, I pumped the tire up to 70 psi and that snapped the bead in place all around.

I wouldn't ride the Iron Cross rims at 70 psi, but it was safe enough for mounting. YMMV
Thanks! I had not thought about/considered this due to the recommended max pressure being 45 for the rims. However, this may be something to try to see if it will correct the "problem". Once you had them seated did you lower the pressures back down and everything still looked good?
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Old 02-27-17, 04:26 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Barrettscv View Post
@canklecat @Tim_Iowa , This thread is going way off topic, can we get back to tire reviews, please?

The following thread is a better place for tubeless installation discussions: http://www.bikeforums.net/recreation...xperience.html
My initial post was on the tire and the bead issue noticed when installed on a new set of wheels. I do agree it has slightly wandered but these are things "I" would like to know when looking at a set of tires. It is also nice to know how other people may correct these "issues" on certain tires, and or, rim combo's. I like to gather info when looking at new tires and any issues/corrections can be helpful in deciding. I appreciate the list you have put together.
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Old 02-27-17, 04:27 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by af2nr View Post
Thanks! I had not thought about/considered this due to the recommended max pressure being 45 for the rims. However, this may be something to try to see if it will correct the "problem". Once you had them seated did you lower the pressures back down and everything still looked good?
Of course. She keeps them at about 40-45 psi.

@Barrettscv sorry about the thread drift.
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Old 03-18-17, 08:07 AM
  #44  
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Schwalbe S-One 700x30

size: 700x30, about 32mm wide
tread pattern: tiny dots, like on a ping pong paddle
construction: 127 tpi, flat protection included, tubeless
performance on pavement is excellent, like most road bike tires
performance on firm gravel is excellent with very good cornering grip on a hardpacked fine gravel
performance on deep or soft gravel is deficient, float and traction is limited, it's practically a slick.
durability: very good so far
ride: smooth and plush

I set it up tubeless on Velocity A23 rim. The tire was eventually easy to install tubeless with a standard floor pump. I did pre-fit the tire using a tube and let it take shape at 80psi for 48 hours. This allowed the tire to seat quickly and hold air with 30 ml of sealant.

The Schwalbe 700x30 S-One is lightweight and very fast rolling. The S-One helped me maintain the same kind of speeds I produce on my road bike with 700x25 Rubino Pro tires. At 80 psi rear, 70psi front, The Schwalbe is not as plush as the open tubular tires, but it rode more smoothly than 700x25 Vittoria Rubino Pro tires. I'm sure it becomes super plush at 20% lower air pressures, I'll experiment with the air pressure in the future.

The S-One is almost 32mm wide. The micro-dot texture and compound provides super high levels of traction on pavement. The tire is wide enough for all the firm gravel near my home in Illinois. It will also work well as a 50/50 pavement/gravel tire in Missouri when the gravel is mostly firm.


.

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Old 03-18-17, 09:47 AM
  #45  
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Schwalbe S-One is 127tpi and uses Level 5 (of 6) V-Guard puncture protection. It is 330g.

For '17, apparently S-One is rebranded as G-One Speed. They are expanding the line with a 60mm model, apparently adapting the textured tread pattern to the slick Big One's casing. The S-One moniker has been dropped from Schwalbe UK and Schwalbe International websites.

I have been very happy with my S-Ones on hardpacked gravel roads and they are really good on pavement, feeling solid and hooked-up even when cranked over; they're quiet and do not buzz on tarmac. Performance on shallow, loose surfaced gravel is good, as they're supple to conform to irregularities and narrow enough to cut down a bit to the firm underlayer. Snow performance is good for this reason. Sticks to dirt pretty good during unseated, power climbs.

Very nice tires, IMO.
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Old 05-02-17, 08:32 AM
  #46  
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I noticed that a lot of the tires mentioned in this thread are on the narrow side (relatively speaking). Do folks run them because of limited frame/fork clearance or because they just prefer that size (range)?
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Old 05-02-17, 10:27 AM
  #47  
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I run 700x45, 700x36 and 700x30 depending on the bike and condition of the gravel.

700x30 is light and fast rolling on pavement, while providing a large enough volume for firm gravel.

700x36 fits most Cyclocross bikes and has enough volume for all but the softest gravel roads.

700x45 is capable on very soft round gravel, but is slowest on pavement.

Most gravel rides are a mixture of pavement and gravel and most gravel is reasonably firm. A big tire is not always the best tire, depending on the type of gravel and if pavement is a factor.

The only all-around tire I've used that was fast on pavement and stable on a wide range of dry gravel was a 700x37 Vittoria Hyper (slick). This tire is light enough and rolls easily for fast pavement rides and has enough volume for soft gravel. See: http://www.bicyclerollingresistance....ger-hyper-2016
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Old 05-02-17, 02:05 PM
  #48  
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Gotta throw out the cream/gum panaracer pasela 38s you can get on velo orange as well. They're smooth, but thick enough to ride well in gravel.
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Old 05-02-17, 04:26 PM
  #49  
HTupolev
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Originally Posted by FrontRanger View Post
I noticed that a lot of the tires mentioned in this thread are on the narrow side (relatively speaking). Do folks run them because of limited frame/fork clearance or because they just prefer that size (range)?
Clearance is definitely a significant part, especially since a lot of people's "gravel bikes" are just road bikes they've purposed for gravel.

Some sorts of equipment only exist out to certain sizes. For instance, if you want to run deep aero wheels, 30mm tires are about as wide as you can go; no rims currently exist that are aero when coupled to tires bigger than that.

There are some surfaces where narrow tires can offer better traction. For instance, on some kinds of mud, it's better to slice through the shallow soft slick layer than float on it.

And, plain old weight-weenieism.
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Old 07-05-17, 03:39 PM
  #50  
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Tire: Schwalbe G-One Allaround (Evolution/MicroSkin/TL-Easy).
https://www.schwalbetires.com/node/5149
Advertised Size: 35-622 (700 x 35C)
Actual Size: 38.1 mm actual width on American Classic 29" MTB Race wheels with 24mm inside width.
Tread: tiny dots, like on a ping pong paddle
Construction: 127 TPI, tubeless ready, folding bead
Performance on Pavement: Fast. Feels like a road tire.
Performance on Firm and Smooth Gravel: Fast.
Performance on Deep/Soft Dirt and Gravel: Tends to spin on loose surfaces due to lack of proper knobbies. Sand and mud can be troublesome.
Durablity: Wears fast. I don't think I'll get 1500 miles out of the rear tire but I'm not easy on them.
Ride: Coming from a road background and having ridden mostly clinchers such as Michelin Pro 4, Vittoria Rubino Pro and higher, etc., these tires impressed me. I was expecting them to be a lot worse on the road. A little more sluggish than a road tire due to the extra weight but good when paired with a light wheelset. They fly on packed dirt and smooth cross country running trails.

Initial install with tubes was difficult. Wheels and tires sat for a few weeks while the bike was assembled and subsequent setup tubeless was easy. I have a compressor and cannot comment on how they would install with a pump.

These have a great ride on pavement. I would recommend them for a roadie getting into gravel who is worried about poor traction or poor ride quality with gravel tires. Get these and don't worry about it.




-Tim-

Last edited by TimothyH; 07-05-17 at 03:46 PM.
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