Mr_Pacman

I recently bought some Kool Stop brake shoes with the replaceable pads.

I have caliper brakes (unbranded, cheap Tektro......but I don't think it matters for my problem).

Once I get the pad aligned with the sidewall of the rim, I pull the brake lever and slowly start to tighten the threaded nut on the brake shoe, but the darn pad keeps twisting and going out of alignment with the rim.

Is there a trick to tightening up the brake pad/show so it doesn't twist?

Thanks
James

corrado33

The trick is to hold the brake pad with your fingers... It's finicky, but it works.

Bikedued

I use a small crescent wrench, to hold it in place. If it's a really strong brake you can set something under the rear of the pad to set the toe in, and then clamp them down against the rim with the brake lever to hold it.,,,,BD

headasunder

yank the lever hard then nip it up until it just about wants to twist, release the lever use that hand to hold the end of the shoe that’s twisting while you nip it up more, you can also start the shoe twisted so that as you tighten it straightens. I use a combination or these techniques, its a paint by numbers job... good luck

RoadLight

Hi James,

No, not really. The only "trick" per se is to position the pad and squeeze the brake lever very firmly to hold it in place against the rim while you tighten the bolt. This only works if pads are installed on both sides so you can generate adequate force when you squeeze the brake lever. I'll usually do a rough fit on the first side then do a careful fit on the second. After the second side is done, I return to the first one and do the careful fit on it.

If this isn't sufficient, then try to locate some friction washers and substitute them for the cheap ones on your pad holders. They will help prevent the holders from moving as you tighten the bolt. I have SRAM brakes and their holders w/ pads usually use them. Another thing to try is a third hand---get a friend to help you. You hold the pad in place while they tighten.

Kind regards, RoadLight

ypsetihw

yup eyeball it. and make sure they are ever so slightly angled nose in, so the front or leading edge of the pad touches .5mm before the rear. this will "wipe" the rim braking surface as it comes around, increase stopping feel in the wet and providing a more progressive brake grab.

Mr_Pacman

Thanks very much for all of the replies. I'm glad to see this is a somewhat common issue and I'll give the suggestions a try.

I was starting to regret buying these Kool Stops as they were slightly longer than the factory brake pads that came on the bike and the end of the Kool Stop was almost touching the inside of the fork, but I was able to pull it over 1mm or so to give it some clearance.

Once I get them on straight, I'm hoping it improves my brake performance as the black pads were rock hard and not very good.

Thanks again,
James

Mr_Pacman

One of the ends of the pads (which is pointed towards the rear of the bike) has a tip that is fatter than the rest of the pad. I was wondering why it had this odd shaped tip, and it appears that it touches the rim first before the rest of the pad. Would this be a way of getting the "wipe" action you refer to without having to angle the pad in? When you say "nose", do you mean at the front end of the bike or towards the back (with the angled tip touching the rim first)? It's a little confusing.

ypsetihw

yeah this bulge on the rearward facing part of the pad will wipe the rim, but you should still angle the part of the pad towards the front of the bike ever so slightly in so that it contacts just before the rest and as you squeeze the pad flattens against the rim. this will make your brakes feel better and help fight squealing.

this is a good illustration: https://www.mytenspeeds.com/My_TenSpe..._Comment_1.jpg

Ronno6

I will usually snug up the bolt with the pad twisted a bit counter-clockwise from the desired position, then rotate into alignment with the last tweak of the hex key.

davidad

I use a Velcro strap to apply the brakes and a small channel lock to hold the pad when I am finishing tightening the bolt.

Looigi

Hold pad against rim with lever, tighten screw tight but not so tight that pad rotates. Release lever, hold pad with hand to prevent rotation while fully tightening the screw. Your hand does not need to resist the full tightening torque. It only needs to add enough resistance to the friction of the shoe holder against the caliper to prevent it from rotating.

CliftonGK1

I see a whole lot of people doing a bunch of finagling with their brake pads, but no one has mentioned the obvious and easiest way to prevent this.

A bit of lubricant on the retaining bolt when you go to install the pad. It allows the bolt to tighten without binding and causing the whole assembly to turn.
My preferred is Dumonde liquid grease because you can put just a drop on there and coat the threads, but even Park poly or a dab of Phil's Tenacious works.

Dozens of pairs of brake pads a week, and I don't have to do anything weird. Line 'em up with the rim, toe 'em in, and tighten the bolt while gently holding the pad in place.

Mr_Pacman

I just wanted to thank everyone for taking to time to help me out. I used my fingers to hold the pad while tightening it up and it seems to have worked out.

Thanks again
James

Homebrew01

Make sure you have the pads on correctly, with the opening to the rear. Wouldn't want to launch the pads onto the road going down a hill

Mr_Pacman

I've got the opening of the metal brake shoe, towards the FRONT of the bike. Isn't that the correct way to do it?

When pedaling forward, the wheels are spinning front to back. So when I engage the brakes, and the brake pads clamps down on the wheels, all the force on the brake pad will be pushing it towards the REAR (the direction the wheel is spinning) of the brake shoe (the opposite side of the opening). I also have the "plow tip" of the Kool Stop pads at the rear of the bike.

Have I set these brakes up incorrectly?

Homebrew01

Really ?

Mr_Pacman

Nobody has ever accused me of being the brightest brick on the wall

I'm going to double check when I get home. I know I have the plow tip at the rear of the bike and I'm going to double check I have the opening at the rear as well. I'm pretty sure I do, but without seeing it I'm starting to second guess myself and it's a good idea for me to double check.

I'll post back either way, if it means exposing myself as a dingbat.

James

trailangel

Mr_Pacman

Ok, after looking at picture of Kool Stop Dura Holders on the internet, I can confirm that I had the opening of the brake holder towards the REAR of the bike. I know I have the screws (that stop the pad from coming out of the holder) at the rear of the bike and that is where the opening is.

So, it looks like I did it correctly (I had a 50/50 chance of being right, which are decent odds) but I will do a visual confirmation when I get home.

Thanks,
James

Homebrew01

None of us have ever made mistakes

CliftonGK1

Many pad holders have the word "Forward" and a directional arrow printed on them, along with R or L for which side they belong on.

Bikedued

I bought an old vintage bike once, and was unaware the front pads had the openings faced forward. I rode it ip the driveway to the garage, and hit the brakes. The salmon colored insert shot out like a gun, and I never found it, hehe.,,,,BD

Mr_Pacman

Just wanted to confirm I did have the brake pads pointing in the right direction (it was pure luck) so I won't be shooting projectiles from the front brakes while going downhill towards a fireworks factory (refer to The Naked Gun 2 1/2 if you need a visual).

Thanks again for all of your help. My next project is to replace the twist shifter (for the internal gear hub) with a finger trigger style, so I'm sure I'll be back looking for guidance.

Have a great weekend!