FazeOne

does the stock kilo come with a 1/8" chain or 3/32"

Retem

3/32" you can find that info on the auction page

s0ldats

actually, let's compile a set of stock measurements for the kiloTT.

threaded headset: **** 1"
seat tube: ?
dropout width: ?
chainring/cog: 3/32 truvativ/Dura Ace
chain: 3/32 KMC
crank: truvativ touro 165mm
bb: ?
wheels: ?? 700c
hub: ??

cc700

threaded headset: **** 1"
seat tube: 30.0 outer 26.8 seatpost
dropout width: ?
chainring/cog: 3/32 truvativ/Dura Ace
chain: 3/32 KMC
crank: truvativ touro 165mm
bb: 68mm
wheels: ?? 700c
hub: ??

added what i could.

Retem

here you go

s0ldats

thanks retem

threaded headset: iso 1"
seat tube: 26.8mm seatpost, outer 30.0mm
dropout width: 5.0mm
chainring/cog: 3/32 truvativ/Dura Ace
chain: 3/32 KMC
crank: truvativ touro 165mm
bb: Truvative power splined for 68mm shell
wheels: 700c ritchey oem semi aero
hub: quando/formula loose ball bearing, width (120mm?)

could a mod add this information to the first post please? it would help a lot of redundant questions.

s0ldats

also, clamp size for handlebars on the stock stem?

baxtefer

25.4

s0ldats

updated with handlebar clamp size

threaded headset: iso 1"
handlebar clamp size: 25.4mm
seat tube: 26.8mm seatpost, outer 30.0mm
dropout width: 5.0mm
chainring/cog: 3/32 truvativ/Dura Ace
chain: 3/32 KMC
crank: truvativ touro 165mm
bb: Truvative power splined for 68mm shell
wheels: 700c ritchey oem semi aero
hub: quando/formula loose ball bearing, width (120mm?)

cc700

package status: delivered

oh man oh man i'm excited... time to go to the mail room!

sixfive

great feeling.. I was waitin all day for mine to be delivered only to find out it was sitting in the hallway downstairs.

cc700

oh man. it's so pretty. the steerer is so long, i'm wondering, does it need to be cut and threaded or just cut?

and if it's cut, does that mean it can be threadless, or does that require a different crown race?

roadfix

Paul's (worker4youth) Kilo...

cc700

oh man... they look great with bullhorns. i think i may put off my purchase of soma major taylors and just use my old bullhorns.

bonechilling

Major Taylors are probably the worst choice for anything other than track riding (and even there, a dubious choice at best). I would shy away from them unless you love ugly-ass bars and uncomfortable hand positions.

cc700

So... i'm going to jack this thread a bit.

build in progress.

($10 flat bars on conversion, i'll use these with a shim until i get my bullhorns back or have the money for track drops... unless i can't find a shim)
cool giger-eske inner crown lug
fizik and easton ct2 on sale with salsa qr collar... collar cost as much as the seat and more than the post!(seat 50%off, stem 80%off)
175 shipped kiloTT frameset
13 bucks out the door for black oury. should have picked up a set of pink ones too but i'm broke.
150 dollar stem for 30.

so in conclusion... 175+30+30+30+25+13+10= stealthy ninja kiloTT without wheels or cranks for 313. i will get a new bottom bracket and headset and use my conversion's cranks, brake, and wheelset, then get a headset and cut the fork. i'll probably get a 3/32" chain too, since i have a 1/8 chain and 3/32 everything else. so add in 30 for the headset, 20 for the bb, 15 for the chain, and ?? for borrowing tools or labor charges, and you have yourself the most ninja'd out and expensive underperforming threadless kiloTT build i've seen on here...

a $380 wheel-less and crank-less kilott. 220 for the wheels(bought over the summer, got ripped off), and let's just compromise and say 50 used for the cranks and pedals, and 30 for the brakes, and that's a new langster of your choice after tax.

will i realize my goals? will i run into major complications with the BB and headset/steerer tube? will my alex R450 / adventurer rimmed wheelset make this bike stink even after all i've spent?

will anyone buy my beaten to hell conversion frame? will i decide to build up my wrecked road bike? stay tuned next week for the ongoing saga of how to completely spend your money and have nothing but a kinda semi-cool bike to show for it.

at least i'm not going to be emitting gas from driving a car places when this is done. at least i have a job.

s0ldats

can you convert that fork to threadless? or are you using a quill adapter for that stem

cc700

i am going to try to use it threadless; it's long enough, sturdy enough and needs to be cut down anyway. it's too long so i have to chop it anyway, and since i'd have to rethread it for threaded use after chopping it i'd be spending more than the difference in headsets... so as long as the threadless headset's interior diameter matches the steerer tube(which is steel and can take a threadless tension load) it should work. there's no reason it wouldn't unless the interior diameters don't match up... and i don't know if i'll know that until i get a headset.

to my understanding, the exact interior diameter of the fork steerer doesn't matter. the outside diameter should be standard, but i don't exactly know.

and if not, i have a threaded headset and a quill stem that i can reluctantly use. i've pm'd bikesdirect dot com about what BB to use and mentioned this, so we'll see what he says.

and yes, everything's black but the wheelset and cranks, which is mostly black cept for spokes, machined brake surfaces, and front hub.

pink bandana wrapped around the TT, crazy japanese style impaler fang chop bars, and ridiculous colored deep v rear rim are on the horizon once i earn some more monies back.





edit: after looking at sheldon's site, it seems pretty obvious that as long as the fork follows standard ISO 1" diameters, there's nothing different between the steerer of a threaded steerer below the threads and the steerer of a threadless ISO 1" fork of the same length.

if your fork has a given amount of space above the crown and below the threading, for the sake of argument, lets say 8 inches, and your head tube is small enough to only take up a bit of that(let's say 4 inches) then you have a half an inch for crown race and cup on the bottom, another half an inch for upper race and cup on the top, and two inches for a stem, you'll have an inch of steerer tube left over for spacers or cutting off. at that point, you've cut the threading off your steerer... and if it's ISO standard, then it has the same dimensions as a threadless. congrats, you've cut the threads off. it's time to put the star fangled nut in and clamp it all down.

i'm fairly sure this will work, but i won't know until i get a headset, press, and a hacksaw.

cc700

is the BB 68x113? or 118? or 111? i'm not sure it matters for me since i'll be using sugino vp cranks, not touro's... but all the same, it might be worth finding out. what's that spindle running?

Retem

sugino will have its own spindle length to achieve 42mm chainline with your cranks

Retem

here are my first two one got sold the other got wrecked I think?

cc700

what's the white thing on the seatstay and fork?

Retem

paper I stripped the hub on that one and didn't want to scratch it all up whilst it was in the boneyard I liked the color

9Rings

Use a pipe cutter, not a hacksaw to trim your steerer, you'll get a nice even cut.

Congrats on the new frame!

cc700

pipe cutter from home depot/lowes? will do. i think i'll go to the lbs in order to get the headset pressed in once i get it...