DQRider 

Thanks Jackbombay. I used the threadless design because it leaves the original threads intact, and was the most elegant solution to the problem.

Are you running the Bluemels fenders, or metal? I would love to see some photos of your Clubman!

I can take no credit for those wonderful handgrips. Those are as-bought from Brooks, and the metal caps will polish up to a gorgeous antique shine. I may even enter this one in the ABCE this year.

Here are a couple more photos I took last evening, before I went on my fireworks ride.

sykerocker 

Last night, Poguemahone and I grabbed our bikes (I took my Raleigh twenty, he had his derailleur equipped 20" wheel city bike) and rode down to The Diamond, in the rain, for the Richmond Flying Squirrels annual 4th of July baseball game and fireworks extravaganza. Well, the tarp was on the infield most of the afternoon due to some pretty heavy thunderstorms, so we hung out at a favorite watering hole a couple of miles from the ballpark. When it was announced the tarp was coming off and the game was on, we headed in - only to have the rain come back and the tarp go back out until the game was finally called.

We did get the fireworks display, however, and as usual it was Richmond's best.

Heading back towards Poguemahone's house near where I had my van parked, I had the long lost joy of a Raleigh Twenty in massive traffic (the game was a sellout, as usual) in the rain, appreciating just how the little devil handles cutting thru all the stopped cars. And being reminded why so many Twenty owners reshod their steed with aluminum rims, especially in the wet.

Nope, mine stays original. I am glad I took it instead of the Tourist or Sprite 5. I do have to change the rear sprocket, though. While 23t may be perfect for the Tourist and a tooth or so under on the Sprite, I definitely need to change the Twenty to a 20t or 21t.

HPL

Went out for a spin to Kanapaha Park (Gainesville, FL) and then tried it on the trails for a couple miles. Not too bad for a heavy ride with road tires except for the fallen trees. All original except saddle, pedals, grips, and tires;still have all parts except tires. Commonly known by friends as the "Black Widow". Thanks to all who earlier helped get my shifting issues under control.

dimini

Here’s my ‘74 Superbe that I found on FB Marketplace for $75. Dynohub works, too.

Road Fan

what's the car?

BigChief 

That's a great deal at 75. The seat alone is worth that much. For another 9 bucks you could replace the damaged 20-30 sticker on the seat tube.
https://velocals.com/raleigh-20-30-tubing-decal/

clubman 

Riviera in the bg?

Ballenxj

Good eye. Looks to be early to mid seventies? And the car in question appears to be a sixties something Rolls Royce, or Bentley, possibly earlier?

BigChief 

Looks like a late 40s Jaguar, but I can't say for sure.

jackbombay

My thought as well.

Ballenxj

[QUOTE=BigChief;21014016]Looks like a late 40s Jaguar, but I can't say for sure. /QUOTE]

You may be right, but all three look quite similar.
Bentley.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bentley_Mark_VI
Jaguar.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jonesy59/348147155
Rolls Royce.
https://www.google.com/search?tbm=is...VYwc8OYjcKufM:

sykerocker 

Jaguar Mk VII sedan, I'll guess the vintage at 1953 or so. There's a guy in Richmond that has one just like it, been trying to sell it for the last couple of years. Was stunned to see that it had an OHV six cylinder engine, not the DOHC like the XK-120.

Road Fan

I think the US industry was still mostly flatheads, so even a single overhead camshaft was a significantly advanced design.

gster

'72 Riviera in the B/G

PeterLYoung 

I have been restoring in the USA a 1957 Phillips Model P2 Sports step through on and off this last 9 months or so. It was in apparent good condition when I obtained it but when I stripped it I found the toggle in the 3 Speed was missing or broken inside the hub. It has the notorious Sturmey Archer SW in which the pawls act by cam action with no springs to return them. When I went back to UK in February I managed to obtain two of these hubs which seem to appear rarely on eBay (from my experience). One was in apparent excellent condition and the other poor but useful to raid for parts. So I brought these back to USA a couple of weeks back and since have dismantled the wheels to have them rebuilt with the original cleaned up front hub and the better of the two SW hubs. The rims buffed up really nice and so I expect to receive a nice pair of wheels later this week to build back into the bike.

The rest of the bike has been treated as follows:-

Frame; The paintwork was pretty good but dulled with age so I compounded much of it taking care around transfers/decals (which were very fragile) and then once cleaned up I have clear lacquered it. Same for Fenders and Chain Guard.

Components; I soaked all chromed items in White Vinegar for around 48 hours to de rust and then cleaned them up and all the parts came up very good, the chrome overall was in very good shape considering the bikes age.

Bottom Bracket, Headset, Pedals and Front Hub; Stripped, cleaned and rebuilt these replacing all the ball bearings. The bearing surfaces on these old bikes survive amazingly well.

Brake Cables; The brake cables on this bike were stuck in the outers which needed replacing. The cables are thicker than modern and the nipples are larger than modern. The brake levers do not take the modern size but I wanted to keep the levers as they are very nice. I took the cables back to the UK in the hope I might find some correct ones there but no success with this approach. I decided to have a more determined attempt at removing the old cables from the outers so I kept soaking them with WD 40 and Gasoline and eventually I managed to pull them out. I then found the old outers were the same size as modern outers though the thicker cables are a very close fit inside so I rebuilt the cables with modern outers. The amazing thing was that the cables never frayed at the ends so no problem re feeding them into the outers as they are in such good condition once cleaned up.

Will post more pics when re-assembled with rebuilt wheels and Fenders etc refitted.

Some photos below:-


Sellers original Photo.


Stripped Frame ready for Lacquer.


Parts soaking in White Vinegar to de rust.


Chain-guard & Fenders ready for Lacquer.


Bottom Bracket minimal wear just a little tracking on spindle, new balls and it will be fine.


Fragile peeling transfers, reason for Lacquer to frame.


Assembly started.


Had to replace SA Trigger due to old one badly distorted. replacement is identical to original.


Brake parts came up almost like new.


Crank set & Pedals also came up amazingly well.

PeterLYoung 

In the late 60's one my mates had one of these Mk 7 Jag's, the ultimate passion wagon, so roomy. great car had a lot of fun in it. Unfortunately these cars were really thirsty and petrol was expensive. You could buy cars like this for almost nothing because no one could afford to run them. He had to get rid of it in the end for something more economical. I had a 1953 Austin A70 Hereford around the same time, again a really big car that did around 15mpg. Paid Ł15 for it but ultimately it went due to fuel cost.

dimini

Thanks for the link on the 20-30 sticker! Now, if I could only remove the reflective, bright red City bike License on the reverse side of the seat tube. Stands out in contrast to the metallic green. Doubt I could get it removed without substantial damage to the paint. License stickers are supposed to be permanent, and I think they are.

I think the car is a 1953 Mk VII. It’s not mine—I own Mini Coopers and an MG. Saw the Jaguar while out on one of the first rides after I purchasing and overhauling the bike. The Dynohub headlight and tail light are pretty cool, though rather dim by today’s LED standards.

Murray Missile 

Factory bike paint is pretty tough. I use a Wagner heat gun on low or medium to soften dealer stickers on my cars then picked away at the edges, they're made of the same stuff. It also works on supposedly permanent license plate stickers. If you get lucky large sections will pull free, if you get REAL lucky the whole thing will come off in one shot. Don't bother with a hair dryer, it doesn't get them hot enough to soften them. Once I get the sticker itself off I then use the corner of an old terry cloth towel soaked in WD-40 to remove the adhesive residue. It can be tedious but it works, it doesn't damage the paint but if the sticker has been on there very long the paint underneath will be darker. I have one in the same spot to remove on the Raleigh LTD-3 I jut bought.

dimini

thank you for the tip on using a heat gun! I have one and will give it a try. I suppose one could argue that a vintage, small Kansas town license sticker is a part of the bike’s provenance, but reflective and bright red on green is just plain ugly.

Murray Missile 

Ooh! At least mine is white with red graphics on a red bike! Good luck and don't forget the sticker will be hot, I keep a dish of cold water handy to dip my fingers in.

HPL

My guess would be a Jag MK V (late 40's-early 50's), no MK VI's (prototype w/"XK" engine), went to MK VII. I've worked on a MK V, and it has that style "2 rail" bumper.

BigChief 

Nice work. Interesting that the cable ends are different from modern. At least you didn't have to deal with Raleigh ball end cables. Most times, the old brake cables have steel ends that are silver soldered on and can be reused on new inner cable. If you ever have to make up new inner cables with old ends, the whole trick is to glob a lot of silver solder past flux a good 3 inches up the cable so it won't blacken from the torch. I'm interested in knowing how the SW hub is working for you.

PeterLYoung 

Thanks your comments, yes I will report on the SW Hub once bike is rebuilt and rideable. Wheels should be back at end of week so report soon after. regards.

JaccoW

There is a lightweight 1982 Koga-Miyata Silver-Ace AL for sale. Posted about it in the eBay/Craigslist finds - thread.

Looks fairly original compared to the brochure. 16.8 Kg (37 lbs)

arty dave

They look great! I think whitewalls look really classy on our kind of vintage bikes. I've been through 2 sets (not schwalbes) that have worn and ridden well but like you say - the whitewall part of the tyre ends up cracking and looking shabby way too quickly. It's also why I stopped using gumwalls. Anyway I hope the Schwalbes have a more durable white on the sidewall - does anyone have any feedback on this? Actually ages ago I had some Michelin world tours and the whitewalls lasted longer than the duros and kendas