Wider tires
#76
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I haven't ridden anything wider than 25mm on my road bikes, but I can state for a fact that if I put wider tires on either of them the rolling resistance would be much higher...because they would foul the brake calipers.
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I have, and it appears that in quite a few cases, like me, the indoor values are higher. My point all along has been that a person's ability doesn't change from indoor to outdoor. In some cases, like when I move indoors in the cold weather and shed all that winter gear (something I don't do any more...) my numbers went up. But really, how much difference is there?
Now can we get back to tires?
Now can we get back to tires?
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If you've done this type of comparison, and simply moved from a trainer to the road at the same elevation, etc, what was your difference?
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I don't any more. I did a while back but really don't need it. I was comparing the outside results to a Tacx Neo and while there were differences, they were minimal (just a few watts).
If you've done this type of comparison, and simply moved from a trainer to the road at the same elevation, etc, what was your difference?
If you've done this type of comparison, and simply moved from a trainer to the road at the same elevation, etc, what was your difference?
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#81
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The roads in the Lower Mainland are among the best on the planet. No frost heaves or springtime gravel swales. No major road damage due to snowplows.
You should be able to ride 23mm tires inflated to 100psi everywhere, including the extensive gravel dike system in Pitt Meadows, PoCo and Maple Ridge. Hell, I've even ridden up and down the Coquitlam Crunch on a road bike with 23mm tires.
The advantage of narrower tires is that you can inflate them to high pressures, resulting in much lower rolling resistance. Not that rolling resistance is that important in terms of overall performance; weight is the key metric, as the gaps always appear during hard accelerations out of corners and during stiff climbs. Narrower rims and tires are also more aero.
You should be able to ride 23mm tires inflated to 100psi everywhere, including the extensive gravel dike system in Pitt Meadows, PoCo and Maple Ridge. Hell, I've even ridden up and down the Coquitlam Crunch on a road bike with 23mm tires.
The advantage of narrower tires is that you can inflate them to high pressures, resulting in much lower rolling resistance. Not that rolling resistance is that important in terms of overall performance; weight is the key metric, as the gaps always appear during hard accelerations out of corners and during stiff climbs. Narrower rims and tires are also more aero.
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This is the road bike forum so I should have specified that I had a Bianchi Boardwalk hybrid I bought circa 1990 that I'm sure had 32mm tires.
Before that was some Schwinn and I have no idea what size tires it had. My first modern road bike was a Trek Domane and most of those come standard with 32mm tires.
Also, to keep the off topic discussion going, my power inside is higher than out, though it's getting closer the more I ride outside.
Before that was some Schwinn and I have no idea what size tires it had. My first modern road bike was a Trek Domane and most of those come standard with 32mm tires.
Also, to keep the off topic discussion going, my power inside is higher than out, though it's getting closer the more I ride outside.
#83
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I realized I'm probably being a little bit of a dick,
@RChung came up with a clever way to know which of your favorite tires is fastest.
@RChung came up with a clever way to know which of your favorite tires is fastest.
You know, although it's faster and easier to do with a power meter, there are ways to measure Crr even without a power meter. That's good because in that case, its accuracy doesn't really matter.
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Mine was different. My indoor was higher than my road. My track was the highest of all. I think my outdoor was lower due to it being difficult to find a course free of obstruction. I have always found it easier to produce higher Watts on the track. I used an 8 minute test back then. My view of FTP training has changed a bit. I use FTP when doing things like sweet spot and aerobic training, but for VO2 intensity, i just put my head down and go with the goal of going hard all they way though till the end.
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I also wonder if using different power meters creates a little of the difference. Example: pedals vs a trainer. Some smart trainers are pretty bad, but some are really good, like the one I use now. So if the trainer is accurate, and the pedals are, there may be a difference since the pedals do not take into account drivetrain losses.
I thought that you said you were done with this, two or three times over?
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I also wonder if using different power meters creates a little of the difference. Example: pedals vs a trainer. Some smart trainers are pretty bad, but some are really good, like the one I use now. So if the trainer is accurate, and the pedals are, there may be a difference since the pedals do not take into account drivetrain losses.
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#93
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No worries. I''ll find a way to survive.
;-)
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I realized I'm probably being a little bit of a dick
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Sorry, belligerent ignorance doesn't sit well with me. You ask questions, make claims and when you're proven wrong again and again, even by your own links, you just double-down.
To recap:
a) No, you can't conclude that your wider tires were slower based solely on average speed and perceived effort and some loosey goosey power assumptions based on smart trainer rides
b) yes, conditions do affect power output and can do so significantly enough to throw workouts out of whack - https://www.trainingpeaks.com/blog/a...indoor-riding/