Worse than I expected :(
#1
half man - half sheep
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Worse than I expected :(
Finally tore the bike down some and cleaned up the parts. Cassette/Chainring teeth are damaged pretty good. Replacing the cassette shouldn't be a problem. The chainring however looks to be a cheapy one piece. Seems to have rivets rather than allen bolts. So the whole chainring assembly including cranks have to be replaced.
One of my cups in the cup-and-cone bearings on the front hub was rusted and scored pretty bad. Can't seem to find of those at any bearing shops. I hate to have to buy a whole new wheel...anyone know if those can be replaced from anywhere?
I haven't gotten into the BB or the headset yet, as they dont seem to be having any issues. I'll probably just service/repack (whatever you do) the BB and leave the headset alone.
**Hoping Jeff Williams will weigh in again**
So, we're back to the original question I had going into this adventure...since it looks like I have to replace most of the drive train, would it be worth going to a better group? I don't really care about 8/9 speed however the 7 speed rapid fire alivio shifter is plastic. Maybe the 8 speed has a metal rapid fire shifter?!?
One of my cups in the cup-and-cone bearings on the front hub was rusted and scored pretty bad. Can't seem to find of those at any bearing shops. I hate to have to buy a whole new wheel...anyone know if those can be replaced from anywhere?
I haven't gotten into the BB or the headset yet, as they dont seem to be having any issues. I'll probably just service/repack (whatever you do) the BB and leave the headset alone.
**Hoping Jeff Williams will weigh in again**
So, we're back to the original question I had going into this adventure...since it looks like I have to replace most of the drive train, would it be worth going to a better group? I don't really care about 8/9 speed however the 7 speed rapid fire alivio shifter is plastic. Maybe the 8 speed has a metal rapid fire shifter?!?
#3
Jet Jockey
I thought Alivio was an 8 speed group? (Maybe the older Alivio isn't.) I think it's the R-223 8 speed rapid fire shift/brake pod is a lot more Aluminum though. I put R-223s on my MTB when I rebuilt it from an Acera group to Deore, and I've been quite happy with them.
#4
I couldn't car less.
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Nice pictures, sorry about the crappy crank. It's so easy to say just change the mid ring on a bolted triple.
How about a bike carcass?
Any mtb triple square taper spyder will do (same length -like their not all 170mm.....they ARE, no matter what your leg length is.) I believe.
Then you need rings.
How much do you like this bike -or how long do you plan to keep it?
-a cheap crankset replacement like one you have is cheaper.
But if you plan to run it for a long time...bad for replacement of rings.
-How many chainrings do you need? I only use 1, a 38T ring. My bikes light 21-23 lbs.
I even bought a non-offset ring so ! can flip it and get more life ( I'm really broke.)
I find 11-30 cluster, 38T ring covers everything. offroad and on.
Double crankset? less rings to buy....no man uses a Granny, that's ABUSE!
If you get a triple, you can just run outer\inner 2 or single rings. One mid is best.
Building a bike, i'll likely use a single ring crank next, 8 spd.
If I remeber you wanted to keep it cheap?
Hook up with your lbs for shifters, mine found me a Shimano 7 no display. no idea what series. I wear the shifters faster as I have only one ring. 7 speed gripshift would be better.
I don't like the bodies as they get messed up, i'm kinda rough with my old bike.
some of the stuff why I like 7 spd is the wider rear hub (strength of wheel by dish) and the unbreakble chain (I do rock climbing around the ocean).
Hey, those plastic shifters are cheap -so is the suntour 11-30 cluster.
If you plan to spend some cash like you love the fit\feel of the bike. Go for 8.
I'd advise grabbing a used mtb with an 8 spd wheel and 'normal' spyder.
Can't be too hard to find a wreck.
You can find a wreck with ...ooooo a Mavic rim? Hand over a few $$ and get your parts.
Check this out
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/k7.html
8 Of 9 On 7
This way you could keep your rear wheel and not have to switch hubs and relace the wheel?
I'm probably going to do the 8 of 9 on 7.
Your derailler -if the range is the same, doesn't care about the clicks -will work.
You do need the correct shifter though.
I'm running out of thingers to say....
Oh, I'm running 7 as my cluster is fine, it'd be a waste @ the moment to upgrade.
My thing is I don't need more speeds. Wheel or next cluster change and it's an 8.
Fall I guestimate.
Stupid bike, stupid strong wheel (Mavic).
Oh..IMO, don't think I have the right answers.
Also the frame I play with is good. To invest in the bike just make it more wicked.
What frame was this?
And if your spending a couple hundred, have you looked around for used newer hardtails? People sell really nice newish bikes for $300.
..well around here..lot's of mtb riders -close to the famed 'northshore'.
Craigslist your area?
Out of words....
Yep.
Out.
How about a bike carcass?
Any mtb triple square taper spyder will do (same length -like their not all 170mm.....they ARE, no matter what your leg length is.) I believe.
Then you need rings.
How much do you like this bike -or how long do you plan to keep it?
-a cheap crankset replacement like one you have is cheaper.
But if you plan to run it for a long time...bad for replacement of rings.
-How many chainrings do you need? I only use 1, a 38T ring. My bikes light 21-23 lbs.
I even bought a non-offset ring so ! can flip it and get more life ( I'm really broke.)
I find 11-30 cluster, 38T ring covers everything. offroad and on.
Double crankset? less rings to buy....no man uses a Granny, that's ABUSE!
If you get a triple, you can just run outer\inner 2 or single rings. One mid is best.
Building a bike, i'll likely use a single ring crank next, 8 spd.
If I remeber you wanted to keep it cheap?
Hook up with your lbs for shifters, mine found me a Shimano 7 no display. no idea what series. I wear the shifters faster as I have only one ring. 7 speed gripshift would be better.
I don't like the bodies as they get messed up, i'm kinda rough with my old bike.
some of the stuff why I like 7 spd is the wider rear hub (strength of wheel by dish) and the unbreakble chain (I do rock climbing around the ocean).
Hey, those plastic shifters are cheap -so is the suntour 11-30 cluster.
If you plan to spend some cash like you love the fit\feel of the bike. Go for 8.
I'd advise grabbing a used mtb with an 8 spd wheel and 'normal' spyder.
Can't be too hard to find a wreck.
You can find a wreck with ...ooooo a Mavic rim? Hand over a few $$ and get your parts.
Check this out
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/k7.html
8 Of 9 On 7
This way you could keep your rear wheel and not have to switch hubs and relace the wheel?
I'm probably going to do the 8 of 9 on 7.
Your derailler -if the range is the same, doesn't care about the clicks -will work.
You do need the correct shifter though.
I'm running out of thingers to say....
Oh, I'm running 7 as my cluster is fine, it'd be a waste @ the moment to upgrade.
My thing is I don't need more speeds. Wheel or next cluster change and it's an 8.
Fall I guestimate.
Stupid bike, stupid strong wheel (Mavic).
Oh..IMO, don't think I have the right answers.
Also the frame I play with is good. To invest in the bike just make it more wicked.
What frame was this?
And if your spending a couple hundred, have you looked around for used newer hardtails? People sell really nice newish bikes for $300.
..well around here..lot's of mtb riders -close to the famed 'northshore'.
Craigslist your area?
Out of words....
Yep.
Out.
#5
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I got a brand new Alivio crank for one of my 21 speed beater mtbs of eBay for about 30 bucks.
#7
half man - half sheep
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Originally Posted by same time
Am I just seeing things? Those look like allen bolts on your cranks to me.
What you're seeing is a crappy picture. I didn't get the crank removed till after dark so no macro sunlight shots. What looks like an allen head is actually a rivet. Where you see what looks like a indentation for the allen bolt is filled level with the rest of the head. I don't know why they do that on these cheaper chainrings.
#8
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Originally Posted by Doggus
I don't know why they do that on these cheaper chainrings.
#10
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Originally Posted by gorn
You could maybe drill out the rivets and replace them with chainring bolts?
#11
half man - half sheep
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Originally Posted by mav67
Great idea! Given that if that doesn't work, then you'll need to replace the whole crankset anyway. So you've got nothing to lose.
assuming the BCD is not some weird measure that nothing will fit. I'll break out the drill tonight.