Conversion or buy a new E-bike?
#26
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That's correct, if you include the price of both batteries. I didn't need the second one for the conversion -- I just wanted longer range. Now I have 30.5AH between the two batteries. I could easily go 100+ miles on a level road using medium pedal assist at 16 - 18 mph (I'm retired with 3 stents so I don't overdo it...I'm just happy to be out there!).
I've done several Centuries on my road bike, but I don't have blockages or stents either. Its a long day trip tho, your ass gets numb, have to take breaks along the way. It would take me approximately 12 hours to do 100 miles. But I'm not trying to break any records at 70-72 years old, just keep pumping the bike at a moderate pace. My feet would start to go numb on the return trip. Sometimes I wondered if I would even make it back home or if I would be sleeping under some bridge, lol? Great scenery tho along the way.
It really sucks tho when you got strong wind in your face on the return trip and your energy is really low and you got a steep incline to climb, and it becomes gut check time. That's where the electric assist comes in handy. Good luck with your bikes and health, maybe you can work your way up to a Century with the help of your electric bikes?
#28
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R. Do you think you could work your way up gradually to do a 100 mile trip given the electric assisted bikes you have? Or does your Doc think this is a no-no? I would think moderate exercise would help with cholesterol related problems/blockages, as well as diet.
I've done several Centuries on my road bike, but I don't have blockages or stents either. Its a long day trip tho, your ass gets numb, have to take breaks along the way. It would take me approximately 12 hours to do 100 miles. But I'm not trying to break any records at 70-72 years old, just keep pumping the bike at a moderate pace. My feet would start to go numb on the return trip. Sometimes I wondered if I would even make it back home or if I would be sleeping under some bridge, lol? Great scenery tho along the way.
It really sucks tho when you got strong wind in your face on the return trip and your energy is really low and you got a steep incline to climb, and it becomes gut check time. That's where the electric assist comes in handy. Good luck with your bikes and health, maybe you can work your way up to a Century with the help of your electric bikes?
I've done several Centuries on my road bike, but I don't have blockages or stents either. Its a long day trip tho, your ass gets numb, have to take breaks along the way. It would take me approximately 12 hours to do 100 miles. But I'm not trying to break any records at 70-72 years old, just keep pumping the bike at a moderate pace. My feet would start to go numb on the return trip. Sometimes I wondered if I would even make it back home or if I would be sleeping under some bridge, lol? Great scenery tho along the way.
It really sucks tho when you got strong wind in your face on the return trip and your energy is really low and you got a steep incline to climb, and it becomes gut check time. That's where the electric assist comes in handy. Good luck with your bikes and health, maybe you can work your way up to a Century with the help of your electric bikes?
The main detractor right now is the weather -- I'm in SW Utah with highs in the 105-110 range every day, so I ride 2 - 2.5 hours in the morning and call it quits.
I got my wife an ebike also (she would NEVER ride more than 5 - 7 miles before) and we make trips to northern Utah and the Colorado mountains to do some riding (we recently went to Glenwood Springs CO and had a ball on Glenwood Canyon and the Rio Grande RR Trail to Aspen). She now also rides 40 - 50 miles at a clip!
There are NO HILLS and NO WIND with an ebike!!!
#29
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@sumbikerguy123 this article may help in explaining the power ratings of ebikes: The Myth of Ebike Wattage - EbikeSchool.com
Motor watts have no effect on range. 1 watt = 1 joule/second = 1 Amp x 1 Volt = 1 coulomb/second x 1 joule/coulomb.
To cover a given route and a given speed, it will require a certain amount of Joules. (there are 3600 Joules in 1 Wh (3600 secounds in an hour)). If you go the same route, same wind, same speed with a two different ebikes with the same efficiency over the same route, they will both consume the same number of Joules (Wh) independent of motor wattage or volts.
Motor watts have no effect on range. 1 watt = 1 joule/second = 1 Amp x 1 Volt = 1 coulomb/second x 1 joule/coulomb.
To cover a given route and a given speed, it will require a certain amount of Joules. (there are 3600 Joules in 1 Wh (3600 secounds in an hour)). If you go the same route, same wind, same speed with a two different ebikes with the same efficiency over the same route, they will both consume the same number of Joules (Wh) independent of motor wattage or volts.
#30
Cycleway town
I think it's a case of 'If you have to ask', even though that's usually a bit cold. Here it's not. It's constructive. Let me explain;
Build - you like to build stuff. You like making things your own. You get a good deal because you're your own accountant, your own designer, and nobody else has managed to get it just how you want it for the money. But it's never enough. You know you're gonna have to modify it, maybe run it for a bit and build a better one with what you've learnt. You're like this, and it's so you.
Buy - You like to have something.. it's new, it's impressive, it works. You know there's better out there, it wasn't cheap, you'll get used to a few things, but it's nice. And there's no stress - if it breaks, or just needs servicing, you take it to the shop and they sort it. So you can just enjoy using it.
Build - you like to build stuff. You like making things your own. You get a good deal because you're your own accountant, your own designer, and nobody else has managed to get it just how you want it for the money. But it's never enough. You know you're gonna have to modify it, maybe run it for a bit and build a better one with what you've learnt. You're like this, and it's so you.
Buy - You like to have something.. it's new, it's impressive, it works. You know there's better out there, it wasn't cheap, you'll get used to a few things, but it's nice. And there's no stress - if it breaks, or just needs servicing, you take it to the shop and they sort it. So you can just enjoy using it.
#31
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Right rear lower frame rail where I would want to place the foot peg.
Left rear lower frame rail where I would want to place the foot peg.
So I bought the Juiced Rip Current S awhile ago and I love the bike. Only thing I don't like about it is trying to fix a flat on the rear 4" Fat tire. But that's a whole new thread in itself.
My concern now is finding foot pegs for the rear part of the frame. So I can have a passenger on the back. Someone relatively light, like say a 100-130lb girl. The lower frame rail is more diamond shaped than round. I looked on ebay for foot pegs, but none of them fit? So I'm trying to find a place that I could possibly find a pair of bolt on foot pegs.
I suppose I could have someone fabricate mounting tabs for a pair of foot pegs. But that means welding parts to my frame, not sure I want to do that? Prefer to find a pair of bolt on pegs if possible?
Any suggestions appreciated.
Last edited by sumbikerguy123; 02-21-19 at 02:48 PM.
#32
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What happens if you put a pipe wrench on those lower frame bars and pull 50 ft-pounds of twist? That's what a footpeg will feel like if your passenger just happens to put all her 130 pounds on one leg.
#33
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How about Stirrups attached to the rack? eg https://familycyclery.com/accessorie...cycle-stirrups
You would also need a dress/skirt guard or clip on folding panniers to prevent feet catching against the spokes
You would also need a dress/skirt guard or clip on folding panniers to prevent feet catching against the spokes
Last edited by Dewey101; 02-22-19 at 10:49 AM.
#34
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R. IDK what would happen if I did that? Probably ruin the paint on the the frame rail and **** it up? Frame rails are pretty thick, doubt they would twist. Passenger would be sitting anyway. 95% of her weight would be on the rear rack. Other 5% would be for foot stabilization.
#35
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Amazon has some clamp-on, foot pegs that might work. Prices range from $12 - $30 or so. I would put some kind of foam between the mount and chainstay to protect the aluminum.
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#37
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I'd be happy if all it did was slip and scratch the paint. Some kids, you never know, will mount the bike like it's a horse, and then say ..."it was an accident".
#39
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You all make some good points. But at this point I think those stirrups seem to be the best option so far. Looks like they could be mounted anywhere on the rack or frame rails w/o any making any alterations to the frame rails or rest of the bike.