Old Rusty Specialized Sequoia - And Does it Have Any Original Parts Left?
06-01-21, 09:58 AM
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Old Rusty Specialized Sequoia - And Does it Have Any Original Parts Left?
How must is this rusty bucket worth? Any are there any original parts left?
I used to own a Sequoia, and sold it because it had a couple of minor issues I'm sure I could have resolved. Of course I regret it and am now keeping my eye on the market for a sequoia or an expedition. This one is an acquaintance and he'd said he'd let it go cheap. I just don't know what it would be worth. Or if I should just wait for a really clean one and pay a premium.
I used to own a Sequoia, and sold it because it had a couple of minor issues I'm sure I could have resolved. Of course I regret it and am now keeping my eye on the market for a sequoia or an expedition. This one is an acquaintance and he'd said he'd let it go cheap. I just don't know what it would be worth. Or if I should just wait for a really clean one and pay a premium.
Last edited by sammyman; 06-01-21 at 11:07 AM.
06-01-21, 11:15 AM
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Define cheap.
Frame has been left out in the elements, and it shows. Wouldn't surprise me if it's rusted through in spots.
Looks like the original deer head rear derailleur, but other than that, hard to tell from the pix provided.
Unless you plan on stripping / sandblasting etc., not sure it's worth your while.
Frame has been left out in the elements, and it shows. Wouldn't surprise me if it's rusted through in spots.
Looks like the original deer head rear derailleur, but other than that, hard to tell from the pix provided.
Unless you plan on stripping / sandblasting etc., not sure it's worth your while.
06-01-21, 11:28 AM
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Post a drive side pic
06-01-21, 11:28 AM
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Condition does look pretty rough. I'd guess you're gonna be pulling the whole thing apart to rebuild.
Really depends on you and how much you want to do to a bike. This one could be fun if you like taking things apart and you also wouldn't have to feel bad making your own vision to you since it's already far from original.
But if your goal is to get back to the original spec of the bike you used to have, then I'd say time is probably better spent waiting for a more complete and better condition example.
If you want me to throw a price at this one. I'd say probably 175-200 based off an assumption that it rides, shifts, stops and all that. Because to me, it's still got the utility of a nice frame and wide range of gearing. It's very close to what I'd ride to the store and lock out front and not worry about thieves (I'd still use a U lock and through the frame and cable through the wheels). But If I started to find the wheels were way out of true, brake pads are rock hard, the derailleurs bind up, the headset is rough, bottom bracket spins rough, well then you can start subtracting. I think most forum members here would be very tempted at any condition if it was sub 100 dollars though so you can't subtract everything. There is a point of diminishing returns when haggling that way.
Really depends on you and how much you want to do to a bike. This one could be fun if you like taking things apart and you also wouldn't have to feel bad making your own vision to you since it's already far from original.
But if your goal is to get back to the original spec of the bike you used to have, then I'd say time is probably better spent waiting for a more complete and better condition example.
If you want me to throw a price at this one. I'd say probably 175-200 based off an assumption that it rides, shifts, stops and all that. Because to me, it's still got the utility of a nice frame and wide range of gearing. It's very close to what I'd ride to the store and lock out front and not worry about thieves (I'd still use a U lock and through the frame and cable through the wheels). But If I started to find the wheels were way out of true, brake pads are rock hard, the derailleurs bind up, the headset is rough, bottom bracket spins rough, well then you can start subtracting. I think most forum members here would be very tempted at any condition if it was sub 100 dollars though so you can't subtract everything. There is a point of diminishing returns when haggling that way.
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06-01-21, 12:05 PM
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I was thinking of a drive side pic of the whole bike.
06-01-21, 12:23 PM
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I would worry about the braze ons with that amount of rust. Top tube cable guides are usually some of the first to bite the rust.
06-02-21, 08:23 AM
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I bought an '85 in very similar condition for $75. Wound up parting it out and just broke even.
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06-03-21, 03:36 AM
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Nice brakes.
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
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06-03-21, 05:52 AM
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Oxalic Acid bath. Or Evapo-Rust. Strip that poor baby down and soak the frame in one or the other compound and reassess. Evapo-Rust, especially, will shock you with the results. Unless you're into the rat-rod look (I am!) you'll be looking at repainting. This one isn't about finances at this point, though, this one is about rescuing a poor bike that deserves better, and I don't know that there is a set price range for that.
Were this in my part of South Carolina I would be angling for it. It even looks like my size!
Were this in my part of South Carolina I would be angling for it. It even looks like my size!
06-03-21, 09:21 AM
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As for original parts the specialiazed branded crank and stem are about it everything else looks to be just OK random bin part's.
06-03-21, 05:21 PM
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The deer head / stag head derailleurs are more than just "OK random". Granted, they're gunked up, but they're highly sought-after, and I think they're original.
06-03-21, 07:34 PM
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I guess my bins are a bit different got a couple scruff dear head DR's . not as rare or valuable as most think/
06-08-21, 07:02 AM
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Me, I'd happily pay $100 or even $150 for that Sequioa if it were my size - and assuming post & stem still moved. As was said above, top tube guides will need careful inspection - they'd likely be the weakest link.here.
But evaporust or patient work with Naval Jelly (then some polish & sealant on the bare metal results) and that frame will look altogether different.
But evaporust or patient work with Naval Jelly (then some polish & sealant on the bare metal results) and that frame will look altogether different.
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