kross57

I have been upgrading my wife's U018. So far I replaced the steel rims, stem and handlebars. This winter I am looking at replacing the shifting system, both the levers and derailleurs. I assume the first step is getting rid of the drive side boss on the downtube. Anyone done this? Hacksaw?? Suggestions appreciated.

markk900

Why not leave the boss there and either put a bell or a decorative cover on it, or just leave it plain? The bike is in nice shape and a jagged rough spot with paint that doesn't quite match will surely look worse than leaving the boss.

gesta

If you think brifters (brake levers with integrated shift levers) you don't want to get rid of those downtube shifter tabs. They are useful and built-to-purpose places to hang your cable stops (with barrel adjusters). This way there's no need to do full length cable outers, just from handlebars to those stops.

kross57

I appreciate the idea, but I'll be sticking with downtube levers.

kross57

Worth considering. But I'm sure I can do better than a jagged rough spot. Also, won't the new clamp-on.shift levers cover that?

gesta

Curiosity got me - you are sticking to downtube levers and simultaneously considering getting rid of downtube boss(es) for said levers? What exactly do you mean with new clamp-on shift levers? Stem mounted levers?

kross57

The Peugeot has a unique system where there is a boss only on the drive side. This is set up to work with their Prestige plastic levers which are flimsy and prone to breakage. I plan to use a pair of clamp-on levers on the downtube. But the drive side boss will be removed first. You could leave it there but it isn't my preference.

ollo_ollo

Many vintage frames had a stop brazed on their down tube to prevent lever clamp movement downwards.. But, it's your bike, and not rare at all, so your choice. Don

markk900

I have successfully mounted both cable bosses and alternative shift levers to the original Simplex clamp on band, so since you are retaining downtube shifters why not go route of least destruction and try to find replacement levers first. There are a variety of Simplex all alloy levers available (edit: look for Simplex Criterium levers - I found a bunch for a reasonable price just now - guaranteed to fit as I have a set in my parts pile).

kross57

That was my first choice. But finding a set proved extremely difficult. You inspired me to look again, and I found these Huret levers. They seem to be the right configuration. What do you think?

markk900

Those look great and appear to be designed to fit that square boss.....hopefully not to expensive!

Here are a couple of Simplex alternatives:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/203110950475

https://www.ebay.com/itm/vintage-sim...t/353225574923

Good luck!

gesta

Ah, now I got it. I got thrown off by your bike still having both derailleurs, figured the part you are describing was already there. That clamp on Huret lever you linked looks the same as Simplex manufactured variant. I guess you are already aware of different downtube boss shapes? Huret (and that plastic Simplex lever on that bike) are attached to completely round bosses, while more recent shifters use two flat sections in the downtube boss to keep bolt from rotating.

dddd

In defense of the original plastic levers, though less stiff and less durable than alloy levers these don't flex noticeably when 1) the cabling is in good order with no metal-to-metal along the cable's path and 2) one doesn't push the lever hard beyond the lo-limit of the derailer's travel. The latter is helped by the former and my bikes are really quite fine with plastic levers (wish I could say the same about the plastic FD's).

The downside of the Simplex levers is that I have occasionally pinched or poked a fingertip on the metal projections toward the front of the pivot assembly. Not fun when that happens.

Gillparis

I am not at all an expert but last week I tried to replace the Simplex lever you see below with a single version of the Huret levers you have above and it didn't fit. The squares were different sizes. But mine is a different lever to yours so..... I just wanted to say.

Shifter missing the d-ring

kross57

I appreciate all the advice and suggestions. I will let you know how this plays out.

kross57

Well, the Huret levers worked out fine. While I was at it, I replaced the Delrin derailleurs with Shimano/Suntour. Functions perfectly, and rides well.

markk900

Looks amazing! Glad the Huret levers worked out - also with Suntour the Huret works better than the simplex - I understand the barrel the cable wraps around is larger diameter - with Simplex and SunTour (especially if you go to 6 or more cogs on the back) the lever comes quite far around in low gear - works fine just looks wrong!

I spy a Comp-V on the front - that was the first mod I made to my AO-8 back in 1972 or so - replaced the rear with a Shimano Crane (1st gen) and the front with a Comp-V. I now run an SL on the front of that same AO-8.

kross57

Thanks! Yes, Comp-V in the front, Shimano light action in the rear. I had the problem with excessive lever travel on my wife's Motobecane when I switched to a 6-cog freewheel in the rear. I traded the levers over to Shimano and it was better. With this bike I stayed with a 5-cog freewheel.

John E

I chiseled off the drive side Simplex boss and covered the scar with a double SunTour cable stop for stem shifters while it was my wife's bike, then barcons and drop bars when it became mine. (She got intimidated by traffic and switched to trails after I let her borrow my mountain bike.)

kross57

The only thing I wish it had at this point are barrel adjusters for the brakes. I can get them properly set through cable adjusting, but it takes time. Someday!