Terry Hybrid Conversion part 2
10-21-20, 10:35 AM
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Bikes: Surly Cross, Franklin tandem, Culprit Jr., BMX racer
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Terry Hybrid Conversion part 2
I finally got my ~ '93 Terry Solstice Hybrid bike to Jack Trumble. He spread the dropouts to 160 mm and painted the frame. My plans for the bike is to convert the back end to a 1x mountain bike, and the front end to a road bike. In other words, a "mullet". The idea came from Bikepacker, "Mullet". Sorry about the lack of photos and links, but I haven't been able to take the old ladies' comuter courses at the library. I plan to do casual tours of 50 to 80 miles on the road, and maybe hard-packed gravel. Bruce will force me on some steep hills.
This is the list of parts:
shifter, Microshift BS-SR-M12
derailleur, Sram Eagle GX
casette, Sram Eagle GX 10-50 teeth
Sram XD driver
as yet not determined by brand mechanical disc brake in back
as yet not det. by brand non-disc brake in front
bar end shifter
I'm interested in the above list because the author swears they're compatible. I need the disc brake to descend the hill going out of Gambier, OH, without dying. I like the idea of 50 teeth for the occasional steep hills my husband thinks are fun. My Surly already has bar end shifters, so I'm used to them. Just to show my ignorance, what is the driver for?
Also, what 700 mm wheel for the back? What 24 inch wheel for the front, as this frame is a Terry? I'd like to keep the weight down since the frame itself is no gazelle. Fairly light but midrange wheels.
This is the list of parts:
shifter, Microshift BS-SR-M12
derailleur, Sram Eagle GX
casette, Sram Eagle GX 10-50 teeth
Sram XD driver
as yet not determined by brand mechanical disc brake in back
as yet not det. by brand non-disc brake in front
bar end shifter
I'm interested in the above list because the author swears they're compatible. I need the disc brake to descend the hill going out of Gambier, OH, without dying. I like the idea of 50 teeth for the occasional steep hills my husband thinks are fun. My Surly already has bar end shifters, so I'm used to them. Just to show my ignorance, what is the driver for?
Also, what 700 mm wheel for the back? What 24 inch wheel for the front, as this frame is a Terry? I'd like to keep the weight down since the frame itself is no gazelle. Fairly light but midrange wheels.
10-21-20, 04:53 PM
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Can I ask why the rear drop outs were spread to 160mm when Sram XD drive rear hubs are 135mm wide (OLND) in 9mm Quick Release type, 142mm (OLND) in 12mm thru axle standard type and 148mm (OLND) in 12mm thru axle 'boost' type.
1) As for a disc brake out back...you are going to a need disc brake mount fitted (these are often a custom made bracket welded on to the seat stay or chain stay). Then a respray is required (as it will look a proper mess after). Note: not all old frames like being welded...depends on the thickness of the tubes and the competence of the person using the welding rod.
2) The bottom bracket shell on the Solstice is a 68mm so you will be looking at a 135mm hub to keep a usable chain line.
3) I've also read that the Microshift BS-SR-M12 is compatible with SRAM 12 speed.
4) Use V brake levers for both a V brakes up front and a TRP Spyke dual sided mechanical dics caliper out back (best used with compressionless outer brake cable).
5) Running a 10 tooth small sprocket on older frames. The chain will run extremely close over the chain stay...may even rub against it, as well as increased 'chain slap'.
6) 24" front wheels aren't uncommon off the shelf, they jusy aren't really a quality item. Basic QR hubs, mostly carbon steel spokes and non-branded alloy rims. A custom built option will at least give you a half decent hub with stainless steel spokes, just a job to find a good rim in 24"
7) Off the shelf rear wheel built up with a Sram XD hub...you can get a 700c...but it is known as a 29er (still 700c just re-braned for the MTB / gravel bike market). Or again go down the custom build route. These 29ers can come with very wide rims 27-30mm. Add the tyres to that and you may well be looking at a wheel that won't fit into the frame where the chain stays meet the bottom bracket.
8) 1 x chainset. Chainrig size, that can depend on the shape of your drive side chain stay. You don't want the chain ring buzz sawing it's way through the stay. Smaller chain rings = bigger clearance, bigger chain rings = smaller clearance. This is pretty much a look and see type of deal...
Costly to say the least (I estimate $1000 - $1300 with finishing kit and tyres...and add on what you've spent already)...but hell, I'm interested to see what it turns out like
1) As for a disc brake out back...you are going to a need disc brake mount fitted (these are often a custom made bracket welded on to the seat stay or chain stay). Then a respray is required (as it will look a proper mess after). Note: not all old frames like being welded...depends on the thickness of the tubes and the competence of the person using the welding rod.
2) The bottom bracket shell on the Solstice is a 68mm so you will be looking at a 135mm hub to keep a usable chain line.
3) I've also read that the Microshift BS-SR-M12 is compatible with SRAM 12 speed.
4) Use V brake levers for both a V brakes up front and a TRP Spyke dual sided mechanical dics caliper out back (best used with compressionless outer brake cable).
5) Running a 10 tooth small sprocket on older frames. The chain will run extremely close over the chain stay...may even rub against it, as well as increased 'chain slap'.
6) 24" front wheels aren't uncommon off the shelf, they jusy aren't really a quality item. Basic QR hubs, mostly carbon steel spokes and non-branded alloy rims. A custom built option will at least give you a half decent hub with stainless steel spokes, just a job to find a good rim in 24"
7) Off the shelf rear wheel built up with a Sram XD hub...you can get a 700c...but it is known as a 29er (still 700c just re-braned for the MTB / gravel bike market). Or again go down the custom build route. These 29ers can come with very wide rims 27-30mm. Add the tyres to that and you may well be looking at a wheel that won't fit into the frame where the chain stays meet the bottom bracket.
8) 1 x chainset. Chainrig size, that can depend on the shape of your drive side chain stay. You don't want the chain ring buzz sawing it's way through the stay. Smaller chain rings = bigger clearance, bigger chain rings = smaller clearance. This is pretty much a look and see type of deal...
Costly to say the least (I estimate $1000 - $1300 with finishing kit and tyres...and add on what you've spent already)...but hell, I'm interested to see what it turns out like
Last edited by Bob the Mech; 10-21-20 at 05:09 PM.
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