Disc brakes 2019
#26
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Let's not forget people who are descending for long periods of time don't have to worry about their tubular tires having the glue melt or clinchers heat up and blow a tube (or carbon clinchers deform) with disc brakes.
I have a bike with disc brakes for riding in the winter and for rain rides. All other times I'm riding a bike with rim brakes.
I have a bike with disc brakes for riding in the winter and for rain rides. All other times I'm riding a bike with rim brakes.
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Agreed, BMX is the only form of cycling that matters, the rest is just a compromise due to lack of talent. Anyway, back to discussing equipment used to slow down in a straight line on a smooth and grippy surface.
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I have had both cheap mechanical disc brakes on 9mm QR on straight steer forks (bad)
and I have had Hydraulic disc brakes on 12mm thru axle tapered steer forks. (AWEsome) Both being road bikes
My conclusion, I really LOVE my full carbon wheels that will live forever!
I Really love the modulation that only hydraulic can offer.
what Do I hate about them. Well the fact that I almost need a seat belt on emergency stops. No that I will endo the bike, but that the bike stops but I keep going!
and I have had Hydraulic disc brakes on 12mm thru axle tapered steer forks. (AWEsome) Both being road bikes
My conclusion, I really LOVE my full carbon wheels that will live forever!
I Really love the modulation that only hydraulic can offer.
what Do I hate about them. Well the fact that I almost need a seat belt on emergency stops. No that I will endo the bike, but that the bike stops but I keep going!
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And yet 90% of people I see riding bicycles including myself are still using platform pedals...One of the bikes I purchased many years ago came with clipless pedals, the first thing I told the LBS to do before I took the bike home, was to remove the clipless set up and change it to platform pedals.
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And there always remains the fact that disc brakes dont ruin rims. This is especially relevant when you have really high priced rims.
Also bikes that are built with disc brakes can have lighter stronger, and more aero rims.
Also bikes that are built with disc brakes can have lighter stronger, and more aero rims.
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Other than the no power assist part everything else you said there is wrong. You had a faulty set of disc brakes if you had those problems or maybe you had mechanical disc brakes and think they were hydraulic. There is a reservoir and hydraulic disk brakes automatically adjust for brake wear, it is one of the selling points of hydraulic over mechanical. Second time I've seen you post this incorrect info. If the crap you posted was factual they never would have taken over the mountain bike world let alone start on the road bike world.
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Apparently 1. You are not a bike mechanic if you have the idea that there is a hydraulic fluid reservoir on bicycle disk brakes. 2. The SELLING point of hydraulic over manual is smoother application and less mechanical losses. Can you please stop with your dumb postings that because they are worthwhile on an MTB that they MUST be worthwhile on a road bike? Aside from MTB's being much heavier than road bikes, the suspension forks are designed to withstand immense bending forces. This is not something that is necessary on a road bike. As someone else stated, if the UCI dropped their weight limit you would never see another disk brake on a racing bike.
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Even a decent set of mech discs …. @cyclingtom must have gotten some very cheap, very early mech discs and installed them wrong.
Considering that I travel 45 feet in those two seconds, and another 15 before coming to a stop … yes, that makes a difference in the rain.
Best news ever: You do not have to buy a bike with discs. In fact, Shimano just released its 8000 group which features a choice of rim or disc brakes. You are safe for a while yet.
Considering that I travel 45 feet in those two seconds, and another 15 before coming to a stop … yes, that makes a difference in the rain.
Best news ever: You do not have to buy a bike with discs. In fact, Shimano just released its 8000 group which features a choice of rim or disc brakes. You are safe for a while yet.
saying that you cannot planned ahead when to stop at 15 mph perhaps with reactions like those you should stick to walking.
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Actually no. I communicated with the UCI on several occasions because I believe that bikes are getting dangerously light now and any manufacturing flaw can cause fatalities among normal people. What they wrote back is most easily translated as "tough ****" and that they will probably eliminated the weight restrictions. Now that graphene is getting more and more available we may see 10 lb bikes in large sizes including graphene wheels. Hope you're ready to pay $20K for a bike.
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So why don't you race against a streamliner then? I'm sure that you can get your recumbent to go the present record of over 100 mph. Since you are of the opinion that classes of bikes shouldn't matter than isn't that just as equal?
#36
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I have Spyre SLC mech discs, and they Work. They do not do all the crazy stuff one poster claims mech discs do ... and they do self-center and self-adjust. So .... whatever.
I also hac=ve hydro discs .... about which the certain cyclist canot speak, apparently having no actual experience/.
Maybe old Avid mech discs simply weren't that good ... that's something i had heard before. but No brake system anywhere eats a set of pads in a single ride. i don't care if you are descending Everest. That is a set=-up issue or some other fault. Seriously ... does anyone want to claim that disc pads last only one ride? Does anyone want to try to claim that a brake system which needed a several-dollar refit after every ride would last on the market?
Think before responding .... that is an option.
This post shows exactly how rigorously the poster handles facts and figures:
I also hac=ve hydro discs .... about which the certain cyclist canot speak, apparently having no actual experience/.
Maybe old Avid mech discs simply weren't that good ... that's something i had heard before. but No brake system anywhere eats a set of pads in a single ride. i don't care if you are descending Everest. That is a set=-up issue or some other fault. Seriously ... does anyone want to claim that disc pads last only one ride? Does anyone want to try to claim that a brake system which needed a several-dollar refit after every ride would last on the market?
Think before responding .... that is an option.
1. Disk brake pads wear out rapidly. Unlike a car there is no fluid reservoir and no power assist so the entire brake operates with manual high ratio lever pull. This means that it doesn't require much wear before the lever bottoms out. The only way to "adjust" this is to replace the disk pad. Looking at the disk wear after just a single hard ride should tell you that these brakes because of their relatively small size and disk diameter have a lot of wear. People that are saying that "My brake pads don't wear out" do not ride their bikes much.
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I'd love to see a source for that. I'm betting it's more like 50% are caused by drunks, and probably the next portion are kids showing off their wheelies.
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I have Spyre SLC mech discs, and they Work. They do not do all the crazy stuff one poster claims mech discs do ... and they do self-center and self-adjust. So .... whatever.
I also hac=ve hydro discs .... about which the certain cyclist canot speak, apparently having no actual experience/.
Maybe old Avid mech discs simply weren't that good ... that's something i had heard before. but No brake system anywhere eats a set of pads in a single ride. i don't care if you are descending Everest. That is a set=-up issue or some other fault. Seriously ... does anyone want to claim that disc pads last only one ride? Does anyone want to try to claim that a brake system which needed a several-dollar refit after every ride would last on the market?
Think before responding .... that is an option.
This post shows exactly how rigorously the poster handles facts and figures:
I also hac=ve hydro discs .... about which the certain cyclist canot speak, apparently having no actual experience/.
Maybe old Avid mech discs simply weren't that good ... that's something i had heard before. but No brake system anywhere eats a set of pads in a single ride. i don't care if you are descending Everest. That is a set=-up issue or some other fault. Seriously ... does anyone want to claim that disc pads last only one ride? Does anyone want to try to claim that a brake system which needed a several-dollar refit after every ride would last on the market?
Think before responding .... that is an option.
This post shows exactly how rigorously the poster handles facts and figures:
Also I didn't say that pads wore out in one ride. I said is that all you have to do is look at the amount of wear in one ride and you can see how they wear rapidly.
If you don't have Avids and no personal experience with them why are you inventing theories out of clear air as to why I think that they don't work like people like you claim that they do?
I'm an engineer with 40 years in the business. I have a little understanding of these sorts of matters. What education do you have in engineering?
#44
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and sram's road bike version and yes Avids which are also Sram brakes have a reservoir. Two of my three mtn bikes have Avids brakes which suck but not for pad wear or anything else you posted. They are just a pita to bleed.
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#46
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Well wear is going to depend on your weight and where and how you ride. I hardly ever wear mine out riding in Wv but I'm 160lbs while other people I mountain bike with weigh 250lbs and go through a set or two a year. Haven't ever wore out any on my cross/road bike but I did swap out my crappy bb5s after a little over 1k miles for TRP spyres this year.
https://bikerumor-wpengine.netdna-ss...p-brakes03.jpg
and just because I found a good pic of a clear Avid brake
https://bikerumor-wpengine.netdna-ss...p-brakes03.jpg
and just because I found a good pic of a clear Avid brake
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You are not a bike mechanic if you have the idea that there is a hydraulic fluid reservoir on bicycle disk brakes.
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There IS a big difference in the bending force between the brake caliper and axle in rim vs disc, but the forces on the fork/frame interface are essentially the same.
The “lever arm” acting on the head tube and steer tube starts where the tire sits on the ground, not at the caliper location.
Last edited by Kapusta; 09-17-18 at 08:19 AM.
#49
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But... how? Are you just endlessly riding down a twisty road on a very rainy mountain? My newest set of brakes only have about 1,200 miles on them (installed about 10 weeks ago) but there is no visible wear on the pads. The brakes they replaced went on to another bike after logging ~6,000 miles on the pads, still plenty of life in them.
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But... how? Are you just endlessly riding down a twisty road on a very rainy mountain? My newest set of brakes only have about 1,200 miles on them (installed about 10 weeks ago) but there is no visible wear on the pads. The brakes they replaced went on to another bike after logging ~6,000 miles on the pads, still plenty of life in them.
I have to replace my rotors at least once a season as well.
Organic J02A pads, fwiw.
Weight 195 lb.
I climb (and therefore descend) 40,000 to 50,000 ft/month.
Last edited by Cyclist0108; 09-17-18 at 07:24 AM.