joejack951

Per UAM, the clincher version of the same rim is 100 grams heavier. So you'd be looking at 1660-ish grams for the wheelset, all else equal and based on my actual build's weight.

joejack951

My first attempt at a how-to video, converting a HY/RD caliper with one of my short pull arms:
Forgive the sniffles

PeakBoy

Hi Joe,
Short pull arms installed and tested this weekend. Very straightforward with the video instructions. I was able to change the levers with the brakes installed on the bike. All worked fine on a 50 mile hilly ride.
Some photos attached, the brake level pulls shown are with the drilled arms and with yours fitted for comparison. As can be seen your levers are at least as good as my best efforts at drilling 2 mm holes and would be much better than the 'hacksaw' approach.
I'll share some more specific feedback directly.
All the best,
Alan

joejack951

Alan, you rock! Thanks for the feedback!

chrischin

Hey Joe. Would send you a PM but restricted as a new member. Do you have a set of arms that can be sent my way? Will certainly provide feedback to help with R&D. Just installed a HY/RD caliper yesterday and explored the options out there for remedying cable pull and your solution seems the most deserving by far.

Maelochs

And a cottage industry is born ......

joejack951

Hi Chris, All sets have been claimed at this point but I will be making more...

...and one of these days I will get that Chinabomb finished, too. It's literally just waiting on me finishing the cable housing, taping the bars, and installing the chain. Kids and job have been taking up all my time.

chrischin

Good luck with the bike. I'm excitedly finishing up a bike build myself at the moment, hence the TRP purchase. Too bad I don't have kids yet When the arms are made I'd love to give them a try! Are you CNCing them out of aluminum?

joejack951

Yes, CNC aluminum, clear anodized(or maybe black, can't decide).

Good luck finishing your bike, too!

joejack951

In case anyone wondering, my thoughts from tonight are as follows:

1. Internal cables: good
2. Compressionless brake housing: good
3. Internal cables + compressionless brake housing: total pain in the ass

rpenmanparker 

I installed the internal cables before installing the bottom bracket. Big help.

Maelochs

And used those eternal, self-healing cables which never need to be replaced---that was your smartest move.

rpenmanparker 

Uh, not exactly no. How do you think I know that doing the initial installation before the bottom bracket was a big help? But fortunately the -066 frame has that big plug in the bottom of the BB shell to help with the cable replacements and you can use cable liner from Jagwire as guides. It all works out in the end. If I can do it...

Maelochs

Well ... I am about to change my cables, so we shall see. I am Definitely no t pulling that dam*ed BB .... I will try the thread method and see if I can get the the thread to cling to the new (slightly lubricated) cables.

Whatever. it is one of those jobs which once started, you have to finish, so .... I might use the "Curse and throw tools" method before I finally get it.

rpenmanparker 

I'm telling you: get the Jagwire outer cable liner. It makes everything simple.

joejack951

That part was easy, even with the bottom bracket in place. The issue I had is getting the housing from the holes in the frame and fork to the calipers and to the levers from the holes in the bars (my handlebars have internal routing, too). I had my calipers perfectly adjusted to the rotors and my brake levers set where I wanted them but simply could not get the ultra-rigid housing into the stops on the calipers and levers without loosening everything completely. The stuff just doesn't bend and with the tight bends forced by the internal routing I had no chance of preserving my previously installed and adjusted items. Not a huge deal but annoying especially late at night. Had I known this would be a problem I could have saved myself a lot of hassle.

zymphad

C'mon build it already! I want to see the finished bike

Also Jagwire has new cable housing where the metal inside isn't wrapped completed around, they use less of it and it is now braided. Maybe that would be more flexible?

https://www.bikerumor.com/2016/10/11...sing-ways-one/

Maelochs

We want to see yours, too!


Burn!

Just kidding ... we are all very sympathetic.

rpenmanparker 

I'm pretty sure it is stiffer. That's why they give you two pieces of the old fashioned stuff for the area of the bars under the tape. Those pieces are flexy enough to be wrapped nicely. The stiffer stuff is used everywhere else. The two kinds are connected by a double sided ferrule.

joejack951

I'm working with compressionless brake housing for my mechanical (well, hybrid) disc brakes. Shift housing feels like a wet noodle in comparison to this stuff. And regular brake housing is totally flacid

I'll go true weight weenie some day but haven't on this build. I swear I'll be done soon, though. Sorry to keep you all waiting so long.

joejack951

Done. Sorta. I want the brakes to engage sooner so I need to modify the brake arms slightly. I also need to adjust the calipers a bit to get rid of a tiny bit of rub, and probably swap the stock TRP pads for the Shimano pads I bought based on interwebz recommendations.

16.65 lbs. as pictured (should be ~16 lbs. without Ultegra pedals and cages). Sub-15 lbs. would be no problem with TRP Spyres, 25mm tubular rims, and 23mm tires. I feel like that's in my future once I work out how to make a shorter pull arm for the Spyres.

Bike shifts ok on the stand. Need some time on the road to really fine tune. I was wondering how well a 410mm chainstay frame with 135mm dropout spacing would shift with a crank clearly not designed for disc brake geometry but all seems well. Campy levers FTW! Wish I had made the switch years ago.

More, and better, pics to come. Had to do real work up until 9:30pm tonight so no desire to setup to take to a decent photo.

Maelochs

That works. The curtains accent the gumwwalls.

Looks great .... but the amount of mechanical fiddling that went into it puts it beyond me. But it looks real good.

zymphad

That looks awesome. How is Chorus? Damn looks fast.

rpenmanparker 

Why would you run 23 mm tires on 25 mm tubular rims? There is no affect on the tire width by the width of a tubular rim like there is with clinchers. You might as well just save the weight and get narrower rims. The aero drag coefficient would be better. Or run 25 mm tires on the 25 mm rims if you want another approach to improved aero effect that provide wider tires. The one thing you don't want is to run smaller tires on wider tubular rims. They would be sitting in the middle of the rim, with some edge exposed. Besides aero I don't know what is wrong with that, but it must be something.

blazin

Just guessing, but maybe he meant 25mm deep, not 25mm wide?