BNB

I discovered yesterday that the reason my chain was rubbing on the front derailleur on a ride was because 3 of the 5 chain ring bolts on my Sram red road bike were missing. I have been doing some gravel rides; one with significant washboard on the route. Nevertheless I'm pretty surprised that this could happen.

My question is should I use loctite one these bolts? When I removed the remaining "regular" bolt it was not tight. The "hidden bolt" was actually hard to remove because it had some sort of loctite (green stuff) on it. Any suggestions about keeping these bolts from loosening and falling out in the future?

MidTNBrad

I asked a similar question a few months ago. Some say loctite, some say grease.

HillRider

It sounds like they were installed without sufficient torque initially. Blue Locktite (Grade 242) should help but really shouldn't be needed if the bolts are torqued properly. Don't use any of the high strength red or green Locktite grades if you ever want to remove them in the future without heat.

BNB

Thanks for the info. I'm reading threads on torque wrenches. I need one because I am not a pro and I don't work on my bikes enough to have a "feel" (which is not worth much anyway, imo). Now I gotta find those bolts hopefully at a shop today. Amazon has them but I don't want to wait days for them.

Andrew R Stewart 

I use grease because it allows a tighter torque with less damage/galling and has more long term corrosion resistance then nothing on the threads. And it's easier to retighten or loosen to service in the future then LockTite does.

Whatever you do I strongly suggest revisiting the bolts periodically and checking for continued tightness. If there are still a couple that have not loosened then their torque might be considered enough for the job. Andy

Gravel Rider

You got lucky. I had a chain ring bolt come loose and wedge under the chainstay which resuled in a nice sized dent. Got a new frame under warranty.

SoSmellyAir

I used Permatex anti-seize left over from installing spark plugs.

ClydeClydeson

I have a strategy for adding grease to chainring bolts so you are less likely to need a chainring bolt spanner when disassembling - add grease only to the threads, and make sure the outside surfaces of the 'nut' side of the chainring bolts are bone dry - no lube of any type on the outsides that contact the chainring or crank spider. This will allow the bolts to be well tightened as the friction between the unlubricated outer part of the bolt and the chainring will keep the nut from spinning when you tighten, and the grease will keep the threads form seizing up over time. I am usually able to use a single allen key to loosen and remove chainring bolts that have been thus treated.

KerryIrons

For the past 50 years, I have done the opposite. A light film of grease on all contact surfaces. Allows full torque on the bolts without worrying about galling of the contact surfaces or bolts/nuts "sticking" as they are tightened against dry surfaces. Obviously a corrosion preenter as well. I discovered this approach when I got my first truly high-end bike from Italy and found that this is how the bike was assembled.

dsbrantjr

All of what Andy said, plus I use Tef-Gel on the male threads only after thoroughly cleaning all threads and mating surfaces. Finger tight hen torque per manufacturer's spec; I like to torque them to about 2/3 in a "star" pattern (like auto lug bolts/nuts), then finish in the same pattern. Takes an extra 20 seconds. Hold the nuts with the little Park tool or its clones.

Andrew R Stewart 

For items that are relatively flexible and are not subject to needing critical alignment w/ contacting parts there's no need for cross retorquing of the bolts. Unlike cylinder heads a brake rotor of chainwheel isn't at risk of cracking or warping.

But if cross threading is what it takes for you to take all the other precautions, then cross tighten away. Andy

Wilfred Laurier

Galling or sticking between the 'nut' and the chainring or spider is not that bad - you don't want the nut to turn, but to stay in place when tightening or loosening the bolt.m... but it won't gall if the bolt is properly torqued because it won't move without tools. Some grease on the faces of the bolt side is not a bad idea, but less necessary. Just the threads need it.

HillRider

Sounds a bit drastic as a learning experience.

Andrew R Stewart 

Dave- Perhaps a Freudian slip? Andy