Unable to open Campy crank locking ring
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Unable to open Campy crank locking ring
Hi, I have steel bike frame Reynolds 531 frame. I am unable to open crank locking ring . Tried with hammer and screwdriver withs lots of wd40.
On ring markings are - Canpagnolo 1.37 X 24.
Any help would be appreciated. Thx
On ring markings are - Canpagnolo 1.37 X 24.
Any help would be appreciated. Thx
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Campy crank locking ring
Hi, I have steel bike frame Reynolds 531 frame. I am unable to open crank locking ring . Tried with hammer and screwdriver withs lots of wd40.
On ring markings are - Canpagnolo 1.37 X 24.
Any help would be appreciated. Thx
On ring markings are - Canpagnolo 1.37 X 24.
Any help would be appreciated. Thx
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Sounds as if you may be working with the bottom bracket .
Last edited by shelbyfv; 08-23-23 at 07:13 AM. Reason: corrected
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Stop hitting it with a screwdriver and get a hook wrench. That is a nice component and you are just destroying it.
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There's a lot of different options about what you could be talking about. Can you post a picture?
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This is the right way:
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Negative, 1.37x24 is English thread. If it is the non drive side lock ring, then it will be lefty loosey, like expected. The drive side, side with chain rings, on English thread will be “righty- loosey”, clockwise to remove, but it won’t have a lock ring. I have removed lockrings before with a center punch and light hammer taps but a lock ring spanner works best.
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Last edited by Spaghetti Legs; 08-23-23 at 07:04 AM.
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Yeah, I was thinking it could be that or it could be the fixed cup from one of the more modern Campagnolo cartridge cassettes:
that requires one of the tools that fit into a 1" socket and can be locked into the spindle with a bolt (I like Pedro's for this as it keeps the tool from slipping when I need a lot of torque)
(or it could be some other part entirely, as the "crank lockring" name they were using wasn't clear to me).
Still a screwdriver and hammer are the wrong tool, but would require a different "right" tool.
that requires one of the tools that fit into a 1" socket and can be locked into the spindle with a bolt (I like Pedro's for this as it keeps the tool from slipping when I need a lot of torque)
(or it could be some other part entirely, as the "crank lockring" name they were using wasn't clear to me).
Still a screwdriver and hammer are the wrong tool, but would require a different "right" tool.
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Last edited by himespau; 08-23-23 at 12:55 PM.
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A detail here- Campagnolo in the classic era marked the Cups, but not the non drive side lock ring. Interestingly, I was asked by a fellow vintage enthusiast recently if the lock rings were marked, yes and no! Earlier ones were not, later ones had a discreet single grove to denote English threading - like the hubs. I have examples of both.
we won’t comment on the French, on the hubs two grooves or earlier, no grooves. Conventions are made to be broken.
we won’t comment on the French, on the hubs two grooves or earlier, no grooves. Conventions are made to be broken.
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Negative, 1.37x24 is English thread. If it is the non drive side lock ring, then it will be lefty loosey, like expected. The drive side, side with chain rings, on English thread will be “righty- loosey”, clockwise to remove, but it won’t have a lock ring. I have removed lockrings before with a center punch and light hammer taps but a lock ring spanner works best.
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Of the 2 posts above, does it look like either of them?
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But you could let us know you put them in the Gallery.
The other pics are here....... https://www.bikeforums.net/g/album/17900402
Welcome to BF
If you plan on changing that out, then hammer away!
The other pics are here....... https://www.bikeforums.net/g/album/17900402
Welcome to BF
If you plan on changing that out, then hammer away!
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then you have a much more recent bottom bracket. There were a few different form factors. In my view, all require a tool that is designed to fit. That is if you want to remove the bottom bracket without undo damage.
‘Campagnolo made them as well as third party tool makers such as Park Tool.
‘Campagnolo made them as well as third party tool makers such as Park Tool.
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The best type of tool for that locking is this one:
https://www.cyclesmith.ca/product/pa...CABEgJy4vD_BwE
https://www.cyclesmith.ca/product/pa...CABEgJy4vD_BwE
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Duplicate threads merged. Please do not cross post.
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From the looks of the OP's photos, the BB cup is so chewed up that the correct tool will no longer fit. The photo appears to be the drive side cup which is left hand threaded
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.
...I have had reasonably good luck on those using a lock ring plier, like the one from Hozan or Var.
But it is not, as others have showed you, the designated tool for this. If the indents are chewed up, it might be your best bet at this point.
You can make something similar from an old pair of slip joint pump pliers, using a grinder.
Or you can try to find someone with one of these tools and pay for removal.
Sometimes these get stuck in there pretty solidly, because of galvanic corrosion.
Edit: it's a sealed unit BB, not a lock ring.
...I have had reasonably good luck on those using a lock ring plier, like the one from Hozan or Var.
But it is not, as others have showed you, the designated tool for this. If the indents are chewed up, it might be your best bet at this point.
You can make something similar from an old pair of slip joint pump pliers, using a grinder.
Or you can try to find someone with one of these tools and pay for removal.
Sometimes these get stuck in there pretty solidly, because of galvanic corrosion.
Edit: it's a sealed unit BB, not a lock ring.
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Yikes!
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#24
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A bit late, but have you considered using some penetrating oil?
https://www.google.com/search?q=pene...client=gws-wiz
https://www.google.com/search?q=pene...client=gws-wiz
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Are you going the wrong way? I didn't zoom in on your pic's when I posted that. But the one cb400bill posted looks like it says left threaded on the face and what I guess is the current hammer and punch marks or destruction looks like you are thinking it's right threaded.
I might be wrong, I'd have to sit and think too long to remember which way most normal BBs thread on each side.
I might be wrong, I'd have to sit and think too long to remember which way most normal BBs thread on each side.