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Flipped my stem ...

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Old 05-09-15, 09:48 PM
  #26  
Silvercivic27
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You should just flip it back and level out your saddle. It's what you need. Don't run away from it. Accept and embrace it.
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Old 05-09-15, 10:16 PM
  #27  
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lol at that saddle.
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Old 05-09-15, 10:26 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by garysol1
KOPS works at least as a starting point and even then its rare that the most favorable position is much forward or behind of it. Sliding the saddle forward because the bar is now a few mm farther away is just the wrong way to do it and if that few mm difference made you go from the perfect fit to uncomfortable then you are the pickiest rider I have ever met.
Why is a few mm of knee position so important but a few mm of reach is inconsequential? I wouldn't like it if somebody slid my seat back 3-4mm and called me a "wuss" if I found it uncomfortable (which is essentially what you're saying.) I've run a wide variety of saddle fore/aft positions and it makes no difference to my knee 'comfort'. At the margin I maintain it's fine to adjust reach a few mm with the saddle fore/aft. Sure if you get close to 1cm fwd/back go ahead and change the stem.
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Old 05-09-15, 10:39 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by CNC2204


BEFORE FLIPPING ....






AFTER FLIPPING [today]

Saddle was adjusted a little more nose down today.
Haha. I think you must be absolutely jumping on or out of those pedals. It would explain the hamstring soreness and the lack of need for the saddle. Great stuff. Tell me the bike is leaning towards the camera cause that saddle definitely looks like it wants to dump you.
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Old 05-10-15, 02:55 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Dunbar
Why is a few mm of knee position so important but a few mm of reach is inconsequential? I wouldn't like it if somebody slid my seat back 3-4mm and called me a "wuss" if I found it uncomfortable (which is essentially what you're saying.) I've run a wide variety of saddle fore/aft positions and it makes no difference to my knee 'comfort'. At the margin I maintain it's fine to adjust reach a few mm with the saddle fore/aft. Sure if you get close to 1cm fwd/back go ahead and change the stem.
If you have a seat that is too high, you run the risk of doing some damage to the knee.
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Old 05-10-15, 03:23 AM
  #31  
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Wow you guys really suck.

I never said i had Ham soreness.

I said it "stretched" meaning i have a longer reach and longer pedal stroke.

"haha at that saddle' ... " you should yada yada" ... i think i'll not ask questions here again.

It's not Astrophysics, it's "just like riding a bike".

This sounds like high school alcoholic behavior instead of grown men.

Forums how does that work ?

Last edited by CNC2204; 05-10-15 at 03:36 AM.
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Old 05-10-15, 03:38 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by CNC2204
Wow you guys really suck.

I never said i had Ham soreness.

I said it "stretched" meaning i have a longer reach and longer pedal stroke.

"haha at that saddle' ... " you should yada yada" ... i think i'll not ask questions here again.

It's not Astrophysics, it's "just like riding a bike".
It's just that you don't seem to really know what you're doing. You have to have thick skin here. You said you were fitted but you also said you raised your saddle height multiple times and that makes no sense. Either you didn't really get fitted and you're just doing it on the fly or you changed your fitting. And you said you couldn't comfortably reach the bars but then you lowered them which increases the reach. Now your saddle is tilted down so far you're going to slide off the nose. The bike looks almost unridable.

You know about what your saddle height should be if you researched. Then you want your saddle generally level and your bar height set so that you can be in a flat back aero position when in the drops and not have to break your neck to look forward. You don't have to have your bars slammed like so many here do to achieve that. The first pic looks pretty good, maybe you could remove some spacers and go down a little at a time.
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Old 05-10-15, 03:43 AM
  #33  
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Thanks Doc, i was thinking of removing my own gallbladder, got any tips on that ?

I have huge nutts, the saddle tilt is to keep from crushing the grapes.

More aggressive position and lower in the drops while im doin 40+ mph is the whole reason i flipped the stem.
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Old 05-10-15, 03:54 AM
  #34  
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A lot of people here ride with the stem angled upwards, guess it's due to age or something.. But good on ye!

Angle that saddle correctly and you're set.
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Old 05-10-15, 04:33 AM
  #35  
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Thanks i live on a hill and it was raining yesterday i couldnt really do much.

Almost daylight here, i'll go down my favorite road about 30 and adjust on the fly.


**** for the guy that asked "whats the pump for " ? .....thats for inflating other cyclist's ego.

Last edited by CNC2204; 05-10-15 at 04:38 AM.
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Old 05-10-15, 06:16 AM
  #36  
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I have to agree with others that you seem to be setting yourself up for problems. You're making major changes to bar height, reach, saddle height, saddle position, KOM, etc. - all at the same time. Not a wise way to approach this. It's usually better to change one thing at a time, ride it a few days and see if it works for you. I've had a retul fit many years ago, and later made some adjustments, such as seat height, remove a spacer or two, roll the handlebars forward to slightly tweak things.

Your changes might work if you're very lucky, but I'd guess you'll be tweaking things now for several months and always be wondering if you got it right until the next ride. I'd start with fixing the saddle position. That just looks so wrong.
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Old 05-10-15, 06:33 AM
  #37  
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When your quads get tired of holding you up, you're gonna slide off the front of that saddle and smash your huge gonads on the top tube.
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Old 05-10-15, 07:14 AM
  #38  
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On road now 20 miles out. Everything's much better better powervtransfer bikes more balanced and handles much better. Soaks up more road vibe due to upper body more in center of frame.
Much smoother ride getting more out of each gear. High speed handles better.
**thanks for those who helped.
As for the sarcastic criticism they can suck it.
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Old 05-10-15, 07:30 AM
  #39  
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Lol, he actually bragged about having huge nuts and top speed so justify his saddle position.

Don't get so bent out of shape TS, it's just karma getting you back for your obnoxious posts in this thread:

https://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycli...-opinions.html
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Old 05-10-15, 10:03 AM
  #40  
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So tweaked the saddle tilt and height a few, found what works.

couple half turns couple 1/4 turns can make a difference.

Much more natural riding position.

I'm in more of a runners starting line position, less grind on my feet & toes.

The drops are deeper now, can make up speed or gain on someone easily.

Broke a spoke just minutes from home on the way back, broke one a couple weeks ago.

I'm a Clyde and the Fulcrum/Campy stock rims ain't cuttin it.

Cant afford a new set as just moved into a house so back to the shop tomm.
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Old 05-10-15, 12:17 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by znomit
Whats with the pump on the right side?
Its for air, you know,like when you get a flat

Originally Posted by CNC2204
Wow you guys really suck.

I never said i had Ham soreness.

I said it "stretched" meaning i have a longer reach and longer pedal stroke.

"haha at that saddle' ... " you should yada yada" ... i think i'll not ask questions here again.

It's not Astrophysics, it's "just like riding a bike".

This sounds like high school alcoholic behavior instead of grown men.

Forums how does that work ?
So loosening your hams made your crank longer which gave you a longer pedal stroke?
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Old 05-10-15, 12:34 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Dunbar
Why is a few mm of knee position so important but a few mm of reach is inconsequential? I wouldn't like it if somebody slid my seat back 3-4mm and called me a "wuss" if I found it uncomfortable (which is essentially what you're saying.) I've run a wide variety of saddle fore/aft positions and it makes no difference to my knee 'comfort'. At the margin I maintain it's fine to adjust reach a few mm with the saddle fore/aft. Sure if you get close to 1cm fwd/back go ahead and change the stem.
That's the way I see it also. Basically rotating the seat position a few mm around the bottom bracket - it cannot make a difference in whatever happens to the knees.

It's bike fitter doctrine though which is why you can't argue it.
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Old 05-10-15, 01:03 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Oldhead
Its for air, you know,like when you get a flat


So loosening your hams made your crank longer which gave you a longer pedal stroke?
No, riding 130 miles a week and 60 mile road ride on Sundays all winter gave me a longer stroke.
That plus working with my MMA ELITE trainer/fighter buddy getting stretched weekly and my current girlfriend was a gymnast, she fills in stretches for the trainer.
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Old 05-10-15, 01:53 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by CNC2204
I'm in more of a runners starting line position, less grind on my feet & toes.
Huh?

Originally Posted by CNC2204
The drops are deeper now, can make up speed or gain on someone easily.
haha

Originally Posted by CNC2204
Broke a spoke just minutes from home on the way back, broke one a couple weeks ago.
What the.........

Originally Posted by CNC2204
No, riding 130 miles a week and 60 mile road ride on Sundays all winter gave me a longer stroke.
13 and 6?

Originally Posted by CNC2204
That plus working with my MMA ELITE trainer/fighter buddy getting stretched weekly and my current girlfriend was a gymnast, she fills in stretches for the trainer.
Mmmkay yeah haha



haha nice saddle
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Old 05-10-15, 02:20 PM
  #45  
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Do you actually ride a bike or.just sit on ur azz and troll forums lazyazz ?
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Old 05-10-15, 03:39 PM
  #46  
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If you're still riding in a few years read this thread again and you'll cringe at the stuff you posted. I mean.. "runners starting line position"?? Your mileage gave you a "longer stroke"? You lost me when you claimed you got fitted, when obviously you didn't. So your claims of 200 miles a week, MMA training and gymnast girlfriends sound exaggerated. I know you ain't riding a saddle like that for 200 miles a week
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Old 05-10-15, 04:17 PM
  #47  
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CNC2204....bike looks great...I've already flipped mine, but I'm now taking spacers out one at a time to get lower. I'm sure on longer rides that new posture will fatigue you a bit, but you'll adapt to it after a few hundred miles.
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Old 05-10-15, 04:49 PM
  #48  
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Just remember that this is the goal......



You must never stop until you've reached at least this much....(saddle's kinda low, imho).

The more aero the better. Plus you can quickly pick up loose coin change off the ground which can prove profitable when it presents itself.
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Old 05-10-15, 05:15 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by loimpact
Just remember that this is the goal......



You must never stop until you've reached at least this much....(saddle's kinda low, imho).

The more aero the better. Plus you can quickly pick up loose coin change off the ground which can prove profitable when it presents itself.
i dunno man, that needs about ten more teeth on each the chain ring , and a corncob cassette :-)
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Old 05-10-15, 05:29 PM
  #50  
CNC2204
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Originally Posted by Lazy Dog
CNC2204....bike looks great...I've already flipped mine, but I'm now taking spacers out one at a time to get lower. I'm sure on longer rides that new posture will fatigue you a bit, but you'll adapt to it after a few hundred miles.
Cool ... thats great to hear.

I was really cooking in the drops, a couple different riders i was at stoplights with caught up with me many miles down the road and said i was keeping a "really good pace".

I've had shoulder injuries and other things over the years.

I had cronic shoulder pain all winter and since its got warmer last couple months i don't now.

Ive had knee and back injuries, head injuries, hit twice by cars in the last year and this ....







I started racing motocross in the early 70's almost killed on the street in 1991' by an 88' Pontiac on a 750 YAMAHA, should have a pegleg but i wouldn't let them cut it off.

This ain't my first Rodeo ....
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