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Dynamo Hub: do you have one?

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Dynamo Hub: do you have one?

Old 03-04-15, 04:40 PM
  #26  
Robert C
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Originally Posted by scroca
Is this normal? Riding for a block with no light is plenty of opportunity to get run over.
It is on this bike. Like I said, I added a magicshine clone so I have a real light. I keep the dyno-hub light on it; but I wold never plan on using it. REI did the right thing to ditch the Dyno light and go with a good, conventional, light on the Gotham.
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Old 03-04-15, 05:04 PM
  #27  
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I run a Sanyo dynohub on my commuter, same as post 18 above. Very pleased, and would not go back. The light was the cheapest dyno light available at the time, maybe $35. Taillight was about the same. I run a Shutter Precision dynohub on my rando bike, which sees all night riding. That lighting system cost about 3x as much. Previously I had a Shimano hub, but sold that bike.

I lock my my wheel to discourage theft, mostly because I don't want to walk home.

Lights and batteries keep improving, so I won't say "never", but the forget-it nature of dynohub lighting is worth lots. For randonneuring, no contest.
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Old 03-05-15, 09:53 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Robert C
Aside from being dim is also takes about about a half, to a full, block to turn on.
Originally Posted by scroca
Is this normal? Riding for a block with no light is plenty of opportunity to get run over.
Neither of my lights (EDelux or B&M Cyo R) has that problem, and both have a "standlight". They may flicker for a few yards while I get up to speed, but I usually hit 8-10 mph pretty quickly. They're on full by then, and, as I noted previously either one is fine for dark country, suburbs, or well lit downtown.
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Old 03-05-15, 10:19 AM
  #29  
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I have two pretty basic Shimano dynohubs. Before I got the first one, I had a Dymotec bottle dynamo. The bottle dynamo was a test to see if the amount of light is sufficient for my use (it provides basically the same output but doesn't require a new wheel). Obviously I was satisfied with the test results. I hope to upgrade to a SON or Shutter Precision hub dynamo one day.

I keep the bikes locked (and the front wheel locked to the frame), so the hubs are equally easy or difficult to steal as the rest of the bike. Pinhead helps against the opportunistic thief, but it can be bypassed, like any locking scheme. One of my bikes has Pinhead skewers, and I would not trust them alone. But in the end, if someone really wants your dynohub, and has the tools, they'll have it no matter what kind of locks you use.

Do lights stay bright? I don't know yet. My older hub is many years old and I think it's nowhere near the end of its life. LED lights have been a dramatic improvement in terms of brightness and bulb durability. I've never experienced the "block or two" phenomenon described above, my lights are on immediately. Capacitator standlight feature is nice, it takes a couple of minutes to charge. But you won't notice it's charging while you ride.

Worth the price? Yes.

How much did it cost? The first Shimano I bought was maybe €140 (complete wheel sans tube and tyre). I splurged for the Supernova E3 headlight, about €150. I have a quick release mount for it + a break in the wire so I can unplug the light, take it off the handlebars and carry it with me. This also allows me to change the light easily from one dynohub bike to another. The other Shimano came with the bike.

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Old 03-05-15, 11:34 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Robert C
...Aside from being dim is also takes about about a half, to a full, block to turn on. i suspect it has to do with the capacitors intended to insure that the light continues to glow when stopped.
I suspect it's a grounding issue, if the dyno hub is an older version with one side grounded on the fork blade newer LED lights may not work or show symptoms such as you're having.
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Old 03-05-15, 11:44 AM
  #31  
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FWIW, my Toplight line rear light comes on with the slightest front wheel rotation..
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Old 03-05-15, 12:28 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by noglider
Pinhead skewers should be sufficient to secure your wheel, though there is no guarantee. A lot depends on where you lock your bike and for how long and how regularly. In NYC, bike theft and vandalism is rampant, yet dynamo lights don't seem to be a target for the thieves. There are one or two bikes locked up near my home 24 hours a day that have dynamo lights. The lights haven't been stolen! I don't understand it, but it's a useful observation.

You might want to secure your lights with some weird theft-proof nuts. I've thought of it, but I haven't bothered, at least not yet.
Hmm I park at home, I park outside stores and bars and stuff. Sometimes I use a bike locker, but I do use a cable lock for my wheel. I might think about doing another ulock.

Originally Posted by CrankyOne
We had a neighbor who wanted a new bike to replace her older cross/mtn bike. 90% of her riding is a couple of miles to meet friends for coffee and the rest is riding from her house to a local paved rail trail with friends. I suggested an Omafiets. No way, she wanted a real bike. She went through 3 bikes in four years and borrowed one of our omafiets for a few days while hers was in the shop and then ordered. "I wish I'd known about these sooner!" Hah!
My bike is a pseudo new school omafiets and fits my use cases well!
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Old 03-05-15, 12:43 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by pdlamb
Neither of my lights (EDelux or B&M Cyo R) has that problem, and both have a "standlight". They may flicker for a few yards while I get up to speed, but I usually hit 8-10 mph pretty quickly. They're on full by then, and, as I noted previously either one is fine for dark country, suburbs, or well lit downtown.
I have a Luxos U, and a Cyo premium plus, both have bright, wide light patterns that illuminate immediately, and are at full intensity at around 7-8 mph.
I only use battery lights as secondary flashing lights, and can't be bothered with any light that needs to be renoved and recharged every few hours.
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Old 03-05-15, 12:51 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Mr IGH
I suspect it's a grounding issue, if the dyno hub is an older version with one side grounded on the fork blade newer LED lights may not work or show symptoms such as you're having.
I had an issue when I upgraded my Gazelles halogen headlight to LED, and needed to change how it was wired, there was an incompatible ground.
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Old 03-05-15, 01:18 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by fietsbob
FWIW, my Toplight line rear light comes on with the slightest front wheel rotation..
Yes, mine, too, and the standlight stays on much longer than the standlight on my headlight. Of course, it's because power consumption is much lower in a tail light.
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Old 03-05-15, 02:15 PM
  #36  
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I'm really struggling to get on board with the purported benefits of a dynamo hub. I get the advantages in theory, but I've been running a $10 battery operated headlight for months now without any issue and I have only replaced the battery once (pair of AAA, which sells for a $1)! Plus I carry spare batteries in my saddle bag and a backup chinese blinky. I can't seem to justify dropping $100+ on a dynamo hub and spending even more to have it laced up into a wheel. There is a seller on ebay who sells the hubs already built into a 36H wheel for $95 and I've been on the fence for a while but I just can't seem to bring myself to do it. 1) Idk the actual quality of the wheel & 2) I'd have to drop even more coin on another light that will be compatible with the hub. Anyone wants to make a convert out of me?
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Old 03-05-15, 02:33 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by yankeefan
I'm really struggling to get on board with the purported benefits of a dynamo hub. I get the advantages in theory, but I've been running a $10 battery operated headlight for months now without any issue and I have only replaced the battery once (pair of AAA, which sells for a $1)! Plus I carry spare batteries in my saddle bag and a backup chinese blinky. I can't seem to justify dropping $100+ on a dynamo hub and spending even more to have it laced up into a wheel. There is a seller on ebay who sells the hubs already built into a 36H wheel for $95 and I've been on the fence for a while but I just can't seem to bring myself to do it. 1) Idk the actual quality of the wheel & 2) I'd have to drop even more coin on another light that will be compatible with the hub. Anyone wants to make a convert out of me?
I'd say if you don't have a problem, you don't need a solution.

As far as that particular wheel, it's the cheapest dynohub I've seen, not surprisingly with the highest unloaded rolling resistance of any dynohub. I'd guess the rim is the cheapest aluminum rim available, and the spokes are probably no-name straight gauge. I've been running that exact wheel on my commuter for several years, and I've never touched it with a spoke wrench. When it dies I'll buy another. Keep in mind I don't jump curbs, weight is of no concern to me, and since I leave the light on 24x7, unloaded rolling resistance is meaningless.
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Old 03-05-15, 02:52 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by yankeefan
I'm really struggling to get on board with the purported benefits of a dynamo hub. I get the advantages in theory, but I've been running a $10 battery operated headlight for months now without any issue and I have only replaced the battery once (pair of AAA, which sells for a $1)! Plus I carry spare batteries in my saddle bag and a backup chinese blinky. I can't seem to justify dropping $100+ on a dynamo hub and spending even more to have it laced up into a wheel. There is a seller on ebay who sells the hubs already built into a 36H wheel for $95 and I've been on the fence for a while but I just can't seem to bring myself to do it. 1) Idk the actual quality of the wheel & 2) I'd have to drop even more coin on another light that will be compatibles with the hub. Anyone wants to make a convert out of me?
They're always there and they always work, simplicity without limitations or effort once installed.

For someone who can meet their lighting needs with a 2 AAA battery light? Perhaps it isn't needed.

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Old 03-05-15, 03:26 PM
  #39  
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Hi all! Your advice has been quite helpful. I have a few more questions.

I have been doing a little digging into some local bike shops. I inquired at one in the next city over that seemed to have some items online. I got an initial quote from them, and it felt really pricey. They recommended Supernova lights at the first pass! Eek.

I called 2 other bike stores that I have been to as well and each told me they could easily order what was needed and advise on how to mount with my front rack etc. One even said they could just rebuild my existing wheel! Which is better than buying a new wheel for sure! So I'll likely go with them, as they seemed to have good knowledge, one of their mechanics came from my bike manufacturers service department, and it is super close to home!

But one thing that came up was the idea of getting a hub that turns off (to reduce drag). This shop had an IRD hub, a Sanyo hub and an unknown Shimano hub they regularly stocked.

Basically I ride slow, there are traffic lights and lots of stops so for me it feels like reducing the drag at low speeds, not worrying about off and on on the hub are all important. Does anyone have a good recommendation of a hub for people riding in stop and go city streets? Which hub might be best, and isn't optimized for riding 15mph. My city has low quality pavement, so most of the time getting to 10-12 mph on my bike is feeling quite fast!
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Old 03-05-15, 03:31 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by yankeefan
I'm really struggling to get on board with the purported benefits of a dynamo hub. I get the advantages in theory, but I've been running a $10 battery operated headlight for months now without any issue and I have only replaced the battery once (pair of AAA, which sells for a $1)! Plus I carry spare batteries in my saddle bag and a backup chinese blinky. I can't seem to justify dropping $100+ on a dynamo hub and spending even more to have it laced up into a wheel. There is a seller on ebay who sells the hubs already built into a 36H wheel for $95 and I've been on the fence for a while but I just can't seem to bring myself to do it. 1) Idk the actual quality of the wheel & 2) I'd have to drop even more coin on another light that will be compatible with the hub. Anyone wants to make a convert out of me?
For me, I went straight to rechargeable lights as they are brighter and I want the visibility. I also do now use many throw away batteries and did not want to invest in more. But honestly, having to remove my lights, make room in my purse, put them back on, etc was the time suck.

Last week I rode my bike to a meeting, left it parked in the bike locker overnight, then biked over to the theater. On the way home from the show, I needed to stop at the grocery store. It was about 1 mile, maybe less from the theater. It was dark by now, so I had to put on my lights and pedal for a few minutes. Take off the lights, pack up my purse. Do my shopping. Then repeat the light exercise again. It was pretty annoying. And I do tend to stack small errands like this when riding my bike. It is not bad in the day time, but terrible in the evenings.

As a mostly weekend cyclist, keeping my lights charged isn't always practical. And my lights barely last 2 hours between charges, leaving me at risk for a weekend of riding if I stay out late

Getting rid of remembering to charge my lights will make me bike more. I do not pick up my bike after work for brands since my lights are not likely charged enough and I do not want to risk it.
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Old 03-05-15, 03:43 PM
  #41  
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don't get the hub that disconnects, it's a needless feature. I have a dyno hub on all my bikes, you simply can't feel the difference with the hub or not. Sanyo hubs are ok, I'm not sure I would spend the extra to get a better Shimano for a commuter

I think that dynohubs are the single best investment I've made in cycling. I can go ride any time I want without worrying about lights or batteries. That's a lot of worrying gone if you add it up over the lifetime of a dynamo system
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Old 03-05-15, 04:01 PM
  #42  
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One more question. Will I notice a difference in drag if I am on a hill (it is a little hilly in my neighborhood, and always hilly on the way home!). I am willing to spend more if there is a big enough difference to notice it on my hills. But not too much more. I am thinking ~$100-$120 for a hub now that I know reusing/rebuilding my current wheel is doable. And appears cheaper than other quotes.
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Old 03-05-15, 04:26 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by jade408
One more question. Will I notice a difference in drag if I am on a hill
You will never notice it being on. Mine are 24/7 running lights - that's one of the biggest benefits of dynamo lights to me. People compare them with battery lights that last a long time, but most people don't ride with their battery lights on full force during the day. I keep my dynamo lights on at full bore all the time, because I don't have to worry about batteries.

I waited a long time to get dynamo lights, because I didn't want to pay for them, mostly, or was unsure of the benefits. I finally got the Shimano hub, and after wasting a bunch of money on cheap dynamo lights, finally bought the real German ones. Now I put them on both of my bikes, and on both of my wife's bike's too.

I would NEVER go back to anything else.

Good dynamo lights are always on, day or night, super bright, are good for seeing and being seen, and frankly it is very relaxing to never have to worry about lights being charged or not.

I'm someone who wants my bike to operate like a reliable car - I don't want to attach battery lights to my car, and I don't want to on my bike either.

Also, more than once I've been misidentified as a motorcycle due to my dynamo lights. Super bright, and I never feel any drag.
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Old 03-05-15, 04:29 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by unterhausen
I can go ride any time I want without worrying about lights or batteries. That's a lot of worrying gone if you add it up over the lifetime of a dynamo system
Absolutely agree. I have fancy security skewers on my wheels so I don't have to lock them separately, and have crudded up all my bolts with tough glue. So I start riding, and I'm fully lit up, and when I stop riding, I just very quickly attach my u-lock to the frame and know the wheels are fine, too. Not having to fuss with a ton of stuff, particularly lights, makes my life SO much more pleasant. Not everyone cares about this, but I sure do.
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Old 03-05-15, 04:39 PM
  #45  
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I didn't notice any difference in drag when moving to the dynohub camp. Mind you, I'm utility cyclist, my bikes are heavy anyway and have fairly wide tires. I suspect in my case it's easier to notice my tyres are not fully inflated than the additional drag of a decent dynohub. A dynohub doesn't turn freely if you try to turn it by hand, and even when it's laced to a wheel. But when the wheel is attached to a bike, and the weight of the rider + other gear is added, I for one cannot feel the difference.

Regarding the optimization to various speeds, dynohubs are mandatory in Germany (and some other parts of Europe). There's a fairly strict set of rules (the StVZo in Germany) regarding power output in general, and at what speeds the dynohub should reach that output. Seeing that Europe is the biggest market for dynohubs, it makes sense for the manufacturers to comply with those regulations. That's why you're unlikely to find a dynohub that would differ from the rest in terms of power output.

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Old 03-05-15, 04:47 PM
  #46  
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I agree, the drag is undetectable and not worth worrying about. My daily commute includes a mile long 15% grade.
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Old 03-05-15, 05:57 PM
  #47  
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A 2-block delay in achieving full illumination is puzzeling. Every dynamo reaches full power as soon as it spins.
I have never heard of a dynamo hub or lamp being stolen.
Removable battery lamps need to be removed every time you stop. I have dropped and cracked several.
Permanent lamps are one more thing you don't need to worry about.
I used to run a front then added a rear dynamo lamp. Don't delay.
The illumination provided by B&M dynamo lamps (and other premium brands) is considerable, my Cyo is generally the most powerful lamp I see around town. I saw one more powerful battery lamp once.

For cycling as convenient, hassle-free transportation, they can't be beaten.
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Old 03-05-15, 07:01 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by jade408
I was reading a Momentum Mag reprint about Dynamo hubs. When i got my bike i thought it sounded great, but expensive. Now about 18 months and many many lights later it is starting to seem like a good idea.

A few questions:
Do you have one?
Yes, my primary commuter has a Schmidt dynohub.

Originally Posted by jade408
Are the hubs essy to steal?
I bought mine, never tried stealing one. I do not use quick releases on my wheels - I use tires that rarely get flats, so not an issue. When in a bad area, I use a Ulock to secure the wheel to the frame or rack.

Originally Posted by jade408
Do lights stay bright for the life of the hub?
I've only had my hub for 15,000 miles, and have not noticed any degradation in performance. I run the Supernova lights front and back, powered by the hub, and leave them on always.
Originally Posted by jade408

Was it worththe price?
YES
Originally Posted by jade408
How much did it cost you?

Thanks for your help.
I don't remember. I bought the hub separately, and built the wheel.
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Old 03-05-15, 07:47 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by jade408
One more question. Will I notice a difference in drag if I am on a hill (it is a little hilly in my neighborhood, and always hilly on the way home!). I am willing to spend more if there is a big enough difference to notice it on my hills. But not too much more. I am thinking ~$100-$120 for a hub now that I know reusing/rebuilding my current wheel is doable. And appears cheaper than other quotes.

The only place you might realize there is drag, is if you coast downhill next to another cyclist. Forget about it.
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Old 03-05-15, 08:43 PM
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Saving Hawaii
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I would worry less about the hub and more about the light. Do you want a European-style bike light? I like them a lot but they have their limitations and drawbacks. Some folks say they're not bright enough. I don't like how the beam doesn't work well while cornering. And while the wheel may be easily locked and not a huge theft concern that bike light is a prime opportunity for a thief walking by to just rip off. Little do they know it requires a special wheel to run. It just looks like some fool left this big, shiny bike light unattended. Rip. Have you ever come back to your bike to find your cheap battery lights disappeared?

Personally I just run a European battery light. Ixon IQ Premium that I found new online for $100 shipped. Great light, comes off the bike easily. 5hr battery life. Just remember to plug it into the charger when you get home.
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