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Replacing Rusted Drivetrain on Single Speed Bike - Need Help!

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Replacing Rusted Drivetrain on Single Speed Bike - Need Help!

Old 04-19-20, 06:20 PM
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ginodoncaster
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Replacing Rusted Drivetrain on Single Speed Bike - Need Help!

Hey!

I own a Bianchi Pista Dalmine (Single Speed) bicycle and I am looking to replace the rusted drivetrain components.

Here are the original bike specs:
  • CRANKSET: Truvativ TOURO Track 1.1 48T
  • CHAIN: KMC Z610H, blue
  • CASSETTE: Shimano SS-7600 fixed & freewheel, 16T
I am unable to post photos, since I just joined the forum but I was hoping to receive guidance. For example:
  • Should I replace the crankset, chain and cassette? I believe all three components should be replaced at the same time.
  • Can I keep the existing pedals and attach a new 16T sprocket?
  • Which tools do I need to complete the job? A wrench/spanner, freewheel remover, etc?
Hopefully I can share images via direct message, since this is the first time I am working on my bike.

Thanks!
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Old 04-19-20, 06:28 PM
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Why don't you try lubing the chain, after wire-brushing off what rust you can from the drivetrain, and see how things work out? Minor surface rust may not warrant complete replacement.
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Old 04-19-20, 08:33 PM
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That crank should last through a half dozen cassettes.
You have 3X the teeth to share the wear and since you have more teeth to share the load, the individual tooth wear should be significantly less.
A chain & cassette might make sense.
When chain reaches 1/16" "stretch" in 12", replace. I try to measure a 3' length for better resolution.
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Old 04-19-20, 08:47 PM
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As mentioned the crank arms should not be rusty as they are, I believe, Al not steel. But the ring bolts are likely steel. Ring bolts are cheap to replace (our shop has a big bag of used take offs to sort through for very little). It is possible that the ring is steel but it too is easy to replace (if needed due to wear or rust), just make sure the width matches the rest of the system. Your rear cogs are not a cassette but most likely a thread on freewheel and a thread on fixed cog. The freewheel can very well be rust infected so that even dripping oils through it won't make it better. But the fixed cog has no moving parts to freeze up due to rust. Still if you replace the chain consider replacing the rear cog/FW as new chains most like new teeth.

I would also be concerned about the condition of the bearings in the wheels, Bb and headset (pedals too) as the exposure to rain/spray/salt will rust and/or wash out the OEM grease. Check out the Park Big Blu Book or Sheldon Brown's site for more info about tools and procedures. Andy
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Old 04-20-20, 10:16 AM
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Thank you for your feedback!

The chain and the flip flop hub have accrued the most rust.

I will check out Park Big Blu Book and Sheldon Brown's website.
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Old 04-20-20, 11:08 PM
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I often just marinate chain and cog (if steel), eliminate any stiff links. PB blaster the chainring bolts, and crankbolts to get them marinating. If really bad, a couple of applications on consecutive days may be in order. Measure chain to check if replacement needed, if OK, and no deep pitting, only replace for aesthetic reasons. Repack hub, headset and bottom bracket bearings (assuming cup and cone bearings).

Oh, I see you mentioned cassette. Is it infact a single speed cassette, or a singlespeed screw-on freewheel. I'd just replace the freewheel. Beware of some lowend BMX freewheels, as they can be difficult to remove once installed.
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