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FSA Gossamer Crank Removal

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FSA Gossamer Crank Removal

Old 04-29-20, 02:31 PM
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SlvrDragon50
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FSA Gossamer Crank Removal

Trying to remove my FSA Gossamer Crank so I can replace my bottom bracket. Few years ago my crank was falling off while riding around, and now I can't get the crank bolt to loosen at all.


It is indeed CLOCKWISE to loosen right? Or am I dumb.
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Old 04-29-20, 02:40 PM
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It's counter-clockwise to loosen.
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Old 04-29-20, 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by trailflow1 View Post
It's counter-clockwise to loosen. You are confusing it with threaded bb cups.
Aghhhhh. Thanks. I'm dumb
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Old 04-29-20, 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by SlvrDragon50 View Post
Aghhhhh. Thanks. I'm dumb
You're not dumb. The markings are misleading. The arrow on the extraction ring shows which way that ring tightens. Do not removef the extraction ring. Loosen the large hex nut until it rests against the extraction ring, then keep turning. This is what removes the arm from the spindle. No crank extraction tool needed.
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Old 04-29-20, 04:52 PM
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This appears to be a self-extracting crank and the "LH" (left-hand) applies to the collar with the four recessed holes. The collar is left-hand threaded to keep it from unscrewing as the fixing bolt is loosened against it. The fixing bolt is indeed standard right hand threaded and removes counterclockwise.

OP: As you loosen the fixing bolt it should turn a rotation or two and then get tight again as it comes up against the collar. Keep turning it and it will pull off the crank arm.
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Old 04-29-20, 05:35 PM
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All put back together once I was enlightened that the direction is indeed counter clockwise! Finally no more lateral play in my crank that's been bothering me the last 3 years! Thanks everyone!
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Old 05-01-20, 07:44 PM
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Okay. So I thought maybe the creaking would go away, but it isn't. I know using the FSA Gossamer crank with the Shimano BBR60 isn't a true fit, but this creaking is a little insane. Sometimes it disappears for a while, other times it comes back nonstop. When I first biked, there was a friction point when my right foot was at 3 o clock, but it's smooth the entire way around now.

Is this something I'm just going to have to live with since I have a mismatched crank/BB? Or something I should look into?
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Old 05-01-20, 07:59 PM
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Having previously run a Gossamer crankset in a Shimano BBR-60, and then changed that BB out for an FSA BB-6000... I would highly recommend ordering the BB-6000.
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Old 05-01-20, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by DrIsotope View Post
Having previously run a Gossamer crankset in a Shimano BBR-60, and then changed that BB out for an FSA BB-6000... I would highly recommend ordering the BB-6000.
Ahh... Don't tell me that I wasn't particularly happy with the stock BB6200 BB with its knocking and premature demise. Sounds like I need to get a new crank
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Old 05-01-20, 08:35 PM
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A new crankset couldn't hurt-- I haven't missed my Gossamer a single day since I replaced it. The arms are basically aluminum noodles.
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Old 05-01-20, 08:41 PM
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Originally Posted by DrIsotope View Post
A new crankset couldn't hurt-- I haven't missed my Gossamer a single day since I replaced it. The arms are basically aluminum noodles.
What did you end up with? I've seen a lot of cranks for sale, but I've been hesitant simply because I don't know if I should change crankarm length or not. 6800s are pretty cheap so they're the top of my list right now.
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Old 05-01-20, 08:57 PM
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I went with a Rotor 3D30, because I have one on another bike and it's fantastic. Competitive has 172.5 and 175 in no-box NOS for $152, which is cheap enough to make me want to pick one up for any potential future builds. The only drawback to PF30 cranks is that the $50-60 Wheels Mfg. BSA30 is pretty much the only BB option for English threaded bottom brackets.
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Old 05-01-20, 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by DrIsotope View Post
I went with a Rotor 3D30, because I have one on another bike and it's fantastic. Competitive has 172.5 and 175 in no-box NOS for $152, which is cheap enough to make me want to pick one up for any potential future builds. The only drawback to PF30 cranks is that the $50-60 Wheels Mfg. BSA30 is pretty much the only BB option for English threaded bottom brackets.
Ahhh, I remember coming across that issue. $152 is a massive discount though, and it'd still come out less than a new R8000 even with the BB. I just have trouble justifying the purchase if I'm spending most of my time riding on a trainer hah.

The FSA MegaExo bottom brackets are so expensive. I was really excited when I found out that the BBR60 would fit the Gossamer, but I hadn't heard of any complaints of creaking. The most I saw was that the bearings will wear out a bit faster.
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