do I have to check disc pads or can I just wait for a scraping sound?
12-23-18, 03:01 PM
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do I have to check disc pads or can I just wait for a scraping sound?
Promax dsk-310 mechanical disc
12-23-18, 03:55 PM
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If you use that strategy for your car, by all means go for it, but I would check the pads whenever I air up and/or when I check bolts for tightness.
Disclaimer: I do not have discs on my bicycle, and have not looked at your model disc, but the ones I have looked at in shops, I could see the edge of the pad.
If it is hard to discern the pad material from the backing plate, on my car I painted a line of typists "white-out" correction fluid from the backing plate to the edge of the pad under the inspection hole of the caliper. Very east to see through the inspection hole and if it is covered with dust a Q-tip will wipe the dust off. I do that whenever I replace the pads.
Disclaimer: I do not have discs on my bicycle, and have not looked at your model disc, but the ones I have looked at in shops, I could see the edge of the pad.
If it is hard to discern the pad material from the backing plate, on my car I painted a line of typists "white-out" correction fluid from the backing plate to the edge of the pad under the inspection hole of the caliper. Very east to see through the inspection hole and if it is covered with dust a Q-tip will wipe the dust off. I do that whenever I replace the pads.
12-23-18, 04:38 PM
#3
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Promax dsk-310 mechanical disc
Depends, how lazy are you?
I changed my Avid BB7 Stock pads because I did not like how they worked ...
Depends, how lazy are you?
I changed my Avid BB7 Stock pads because I did not like how they worked ...
12-23-18, 06:43 PM
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To be cynical- That's a really good method, wait till the rotor is getting all chewed up before paying attention. Andy
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12-23-18, 07:35 PM
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Some people seem to be able to wear out a set of pads in an afternoon...if you believe some of the argument presented on the Bike Forums. On the other hand, you can check them once in while, use them sparingly and not worry too much about it. I have pads that are at least a couple of years old and still in good shape. I haven’t really even needed to adjust the pad width yet.
The rotors probably need replaced more often then they are on bicycles. They do wear out.
That said, rotors are cheap...only about twice the cost of a set of pads. It’s not like a car where a rotor replacement is a significantly costly affair.
That said, rotors are cheap...only about twice the cost of a set of pads. It’s not like a car where a rotor replacement is a significantly costly affair.
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12-23-18, 07:38 PM
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The difference between a new rotor and a rotor at the end of its life is between .4-.7 of a millimeter. It's possible to destroy a new rotor by braking with the backing plate one time. Pads can be checked, for free, with your eyes. Sometimes you don't even need to bend down.
12-23-18, 09:17 PM
#9
Non omnino gravis
Mechanical calipers are easy-- every one I've ever used would run out of pad adjustment before they could put the pad backings into the rotors. With the current hydro calipers, it doesn't seem to be an issue either, as after ~3,000 miles, the pads show no visible wear.
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12-24-18, 01:34 AM
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You don't need to wait for scraping to tell--your brake levers would be against your grips in order to stop if that worn. It's easy to check. I have Shimano and you can see the pads without taking them out. If in doubt because of dust or very worn, I just pull the cotter pin or bolt and slip out the pads to check. They get switched if thin enough to be close to the pads' spring. I guess I use 1 rotor to 2-3 sets of pads usage?
12-24-18, 02:11 PM
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12-24-18, 03:17 PM
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12-24-18, 04:37 PM
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12-27-18, 10:26 AM
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just saw this, thought I'd share
12-27-18, 01:10 PM
#17
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Planning ahead?
Notice how thick the friction material is, perhaps, measure it ?.. and then before each season , measure again ?
you can see the pads once you take the wheel out, can't you?
removing the disc pads is not difficult.. I used some course carborundum grit paper
to remove the glazed surface on my BB7 original pads ,
then replaced them (Kool Stop Organic), and then replaced the caliper with a different type..
...
...
you can see the pads once you take the wheel out, can't you?
removing the disc pads is not difficult.. I used some course carborundum grit paper
to remove the glazed surface on my BB7 original pads ,
then replaced them (Kool Stop Organic), and then replaced the caliper with a different type..
...
...
Last edited by fietsbob; 12-27-18 at 01:20 PM.
12-28-18, 02:57 AM
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There is either a cotter pin or a fixing bolt with a small circlip that keeps the pads from falling out. You must remove it to remove the pads. Note the sides and direction the pads come out/go in and be sure to replace the pin or bolt with the circlip!
12-28-18, 07:45 AM
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gotta look again for an easy way to slip them out
12-28-18, 09:02 AM
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Is that the way you would determine you needed w blocks with the old style caliper brakes?
12-28-18, 12:19 PM
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12-28-18, 12:28 PM
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Shimano:
1. Remove little clip from the inside end of the retaining bolt.
2. Remove retaining bolt.
3. Remove pads and spring as one unit.
4. Look at pads.
5. Replace pads if worn down, otherwise just put it back together.
SRAM/Avid:
1. Remove brake levers
2. Remove brake calipers
3. Remove rotors
4. Sell on eBay
5. Replace with Shimano
12-28-18, 12:38 PM
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You don't need to remove anything to inspect the pads, a flashlight helps. You look down from the top and visually confirm the remaining pad material - 0.5mm is easy to see and often "very close to the backing plate" is good enough.
12-28-18, 12:44 PM
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I think until someone knows what to look for, removing them is the most unambiguous approach.
12-28-18, 05:28 PM
#25
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The Scuttlebutt from the 1st use of a disc brake bike in the worlds Cyclocross championships race, a few years past,
was the holes in the disc retained enough of the Sand pit the brake pads would not last an hour..( Sr Men's race is 60 minutes to the last lap bell.. )
So they flew in some made overnight, without holes in the edge, so no place to retain that sand..
So .... you could be scraping metal sooner than you think..
was the holes in the disc retained enough of the Sand pit the brake pads would not last an hour..( Sr Men's race is 60 minutes to the last lap bell.. )
So they flew in some made overnight, without holes in the edge, so no place to retain that sand..
So .... you could be scraping metal sooner than you think..