in search of ideal frameset
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in search of ideal frameset
Hi folks,
Grzegorz from Poland here. This is my first post here. As stated in the title, I'm looking or ideal frameset. Ideal for my current needs
So im looking for steel cx/gravel frameset. It has to be steel and has NO disc breaks. For now my choice is Ritchey Swiss Cross canti, but im looking for alternatives. It can be something less aggressive than Swiss Cross, more endurance geo.
Maybe you know something good you can recommend? Maybe you have one you want to sell me?
Cheers,
G.P.
Grzegorz from Poland here. This is my first post here. As stated in the title, I'm looking or ideal frameset. Ideal for my current needs
So im looking for steel cx/gravel frameset. It has to be steel and has NO disc breaks. For now my choice is Ritchey Swiss Cross canti, but im looking for alternatives. It can be something less aggressive than Swiss Cross, more endurance geo.
Maybe you know something good you can recommend? Maybe you have one you want to sell me?
Cheers,
G.P.
#2
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There's always the trusty Surly Cross Check. If you like the geo they're pretty hard to beat for versatility. Also check out Black Mountain Cycles: https://blackmtncycles.com/frames/monstercross-frames/
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The Rivendell ‘Sam Hillborn’ or ‘Appaloosa’ frames could be built into a fine gravel bikes. Either would be a more relaxed geometry than the Ritchey.
Cantis are going extinct, I think even an old retro-grouch’s like myself will have to consider disk brakes at some point in the future.
Cantis are going extinct, I think even an old retro-grouch’s like myself will have to consider disk brakes at some point in the future.
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#4
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https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/356502/
53x54 NOS https://www.bricklanebikes.co.uk/for...-frameset-53cm
Fort (Czech) is still around, but they don't do steel CX anymore.
That old frameset above is 130mm rear. If 53cm is not suitable you might be able to locate one in Czech.
If you want a taller front end, you can use a 'riser' style gravel drop bar. e.g. 20mm rise.
53x54 NOS https://www.bricklanebikes.co.uk/for...-frameset-53cm
Fort (Czech) is still around, but they don't do steel CX anymore.
That old frameset above is 130mm rear. If 53cm is not suitable you might be able to locate one in Czech.
If you want a taller front end, you can use a 'riser' style gravel drop bar. e.g. 20mm rise.
Last edited by tangerineowl; 04-11-21 at 03:40 PM. Reason: txt
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The Rivendell ‘Sam Hillborn’ or ‘Appaloosa’ frames could be built into a fine gravel bikes. Either would be a more relaxed geometry than the Ritchey.
Cantis are going extinct, I think even an old retro-grouch’s like myself will have to consider disk brakes at some point in the future.
Cantis are going extinct, I think even an old retro-grouch’s like myself will have to consider disk brakes at some point in the future.
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Black Mointain Cycles Monstercross, as already mentioned.
Geometey is more endurance than race for sure, tubing is double butted heat treaded cromo, and it uses rim brakes.
Geometey is more endurance than race for sure, tubing is double butted heat treaded cromo, and it uses rim brakes.
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Thx guys. Seems that there is plenty of options. In theory In practice, nowadays it seems to be impossible to buy anything. No frames, no parts, nothing :/ If you would know about somebody who want to sell one of the frames mentioned above, don't forget to let me know please
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What is your opposition to disc brakes? The braking power and control is superior - especially in gravel where the rims often get muddy.
Ritchey also makes the Outback, and I think you can actually buy them!
Ritchey also makes the Outback, and I think you can actually buy them!
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Well, most important reason is maintenance. Im not sunday 20km rider, on long trip when you have problem with disc break, you have a problem. Argument about mud i hear every time is really funny. During last 10 years I have about 100k km done on gravel-ish routes and maybe once problem with v brakes and mud was real issue. Outback is not an option, but thx.
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How do you figure? I've changed pads on a long ride (yes, I have a set in my spares kit), and I've adjusted a caliper on a ride as well. Both times it was less than 5 minutes of work. The only problem I had was how cold it was both times and my fingers got pretty cold.
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I have used my gravel bike with disc brakes for randonneuring. The most I have ridden it on gravel on one day was 200 km.
But it has gone over 400k a number of times on the road. I hope to do some bikepacking this year on gravel using a bike with disc brakes.
I was always one of those people that said, "rim brakes just use a really big disc," but I see no reason to fight this particular trend any more, rim brakes are for rich people and poor people and those of us in between get discs. And can out-brake the people with rim brakes.
But it has gone over 400k a number of times on the road. I hope to do some bikepacking this year on gravel using a bike with disc brakes.
I was always one of those people that said, "rim brakes just use a really big disc," but I see no reason to fight this particular trend any more, rim brakes are for rich people and poor people and those of us in between get discs. And can out-brake the people with rim brakes.
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A 7 minute video can teach you everything you need to know about adjusting and maintaining a cable disc brake. 7 min video and woosh! you are through the time portal to 2021! Just carry a 5mm hex wrench.
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Well, most important reason is maintenance. Im not sunday 20km rider, on long trip when you have problem with disc break, you have a problem. Argument about mud i hear every time is really funny. During last 10 years I have about 100k km done on gravel-ish routes and maybe once problem with v brakes and mud was real issue. Outback is not an option, but thx.
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Unfortunately pads are not only thing that can break. Do you really like to replace the disc on the road? Typically you have different disc sizes on front and rear wheel, so you have to take two such discs with you. Same about hydraulic hoses? I dont say it is not possible to maintain disc breaks in the middle of the trip, but worse case scenario is much worse.
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I have used my gravel bike with disc brakes for randonneuring. The most I have ridden it on gravel on one day was 200 km.
But it has gone over 400k a number of times on the road. I hope to do some bikepacking this year on gravel using a bike with disc brakes.
I was always one of those people that said, "rim brakes just use a really big disc," but I see no reason to fight this particular trend any more, rim brakes are for rich people and poor people and those of us in between get discs. And can out-brake the people with rim brakes.
But it has gone over 400k a number of times on the road. I hope to do some bikepacking this year on gravel using a bike with disc brakes.
I was always one of those people that said, "rim brakes just use a really big disc," but I see no reason to fight this particular trend any more, rim brakes are for rich people and poor people and those of us in between get discs. And can out-brake the people with rim brakes.
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If you are in a situation with a hose failure or a rotor requiring replacement, something catastrophic has likely happened and you've probably got much bigger issues than a hose or rotor. Not an absolute, but also not very likely to have those kinds of failures if you do regular maintenance. The corollary for rim brakes is a rim failing due to a brake track worn past serviceable limit or a cable breaking, both easily preventable with basic preventive maintenance. Or do you just carry a spare rim and cables?
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Because rims with brake tracks are only going to be available on custom built wheels. Most rim brake specific equipment is going to be niche product soon. Or is now, due to industry shortages.
I don't know if it's just a temporary thing because of bike parts shortages, but the industry just stopped making most rim brake products. They still say they have them in their catalog, but if they don't make them or ship them they don't really sell them.
I don't know if it's just a temporary thing because of bike parts shortages, but the industry just stopped making most rim brake products. They still say they have them in their catalog, but if they don't make them or ship them they don't really sell them.
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I've been buying up my friends' rim brake wheels when they go to disc. Gotten some bargains on really nice wheels.
#22
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Getting back onto the topic of the original poster:
That fork is their "touring fork". Delightfully calm and stable at speed on downhills. Full rack and fender mounts front and rear.
That fork is their "touring fork". Delightfully calm and stable at speed on downhills. Full rack and fender mounts front and rear.
Last edited by randallr; 04-22-21 at 01:32 PM.
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I used to worry about rim brake rims, but I think that's not really going to be a problem for a long time. My new worry is cable actuated brake levers. I really don't want to go back to DT or bar end shifters.
Every once in a while, the industry comes up with a change that I find compelling, like wider rims. I have some wheels with narrow rims that I should get rid of, but I wonder if anyone would want them.
Last edited by unterhausen; 04-22-21 at 02:25 PM.