Cannondale F4 head shock
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Cannondale F4 head shock
I was wondering if anyone has converted from a headshock to a non- suspension regular fork.
I have looked online and it looks like the headshock on my F4 needs new seals at best. Don't know if the bladder is toast as well. it doesn't hold air for more than a ride.
I've been riding it as is, locked out with no suspension. What I was thinking was to swap out forks for a regular fork. Seems to me that the headshock is heavy if not used as intended. Also lowers the handlebars by 2-3 inches. I use this bike mainly on roads/paths anyway, and as a spring/fall ride. I have city tires/slicks on it.
Thanks
I have looked online and it looks like the headshock on my F4 needs new seals at best. Don't know if the bladder is toast as well. it doesn't hold air for more than a ride.
I've been riding it as is, locked out with no suspension. What I was thinking was to swap out forks for a regular fork. Seems to me that the headshock is heavy if not used as intended. Also lowers the handlebars by 2-3 inches. I use this bike mainly on roads/paths anyway, and as a spring/fall ride. I have city tires/slicks on it.
Thanks
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Any suspension fork is excess weight if you ride around with the lockout on all the time. A Headshok, though, is considerably lighter than most conventional forks.
You’re correct that it’s most likely the air chamber, since it keeps loosing air. They’re still available, although it takes some special tools and techniques to overhaul one.
If you really want to go rigid, which is what I’d suggest; since taking hits with the lockout on is the fastest way to kill a DL80 / Ultra fork, there are headset adapters that would let you run a standard 1-1/8” fork.
Make sure you get a ‘suspension corrected’ fork, because Headshoks are long, about as long as a 100mm telescoping fork, so installing a regular rigid fork that “drops the bars 2-3 inches “ is going to produce some ‘interesting’ handling effects.
You’re correct that it’s most likely the air chamber, since it keeps loosing air. They’re still available, although it takes some special tools and techniques to overhaul one.
If you really want to go rigid, which is what I’d suggest; since taking hits with the lockout on is the fastest way to kill a DL80 / Ultra fork, there are headset adapters that would let you run a standard 1-1/8” fork.
Make sure you get a ‘suspension corrected’ fork, because Headshoks are long, about as long as a 100mm telescoping fork, so installing a regular rigid fork that “drops the bars 2-3 inches “ is going to produce some ‘interesting’ handling effects.
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Hi,
Ironfish,
Thanks for the reply.
I stopped in to my LBS and got some good info as well. first, I guess they will send it to Mendoncycle to get it repaired. The shop owner just did that last year on a headshock.
I still like the idea of going rigid. We looked up some forks that would work (29ers I guess, because of the head shock), and they actually can't get any right now.
So, I either I take a gamble on servicing the headshock, or play the waiting game.
Thanks again for the information.
Ironfish,
Thanks for the reply.
I stopped in to my LBS and got some good info as well. first, I guess they will send it to Mendoncycle to get it repaired. The shop owner just did that last year on a headshock.
I still like the idea of going rigid. We looked up some forks that would work (29ers I guess, because of the head shock), and they actually can't get any right now.
So, I either I take a gamble on servicing the headshock, or play the waiting game.
Thanks again for the information.
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So I found a fork at webcyclery, out of Bend, Oregon. Anyone use this place? I guess my LBS just looked through their supplier, which is fair I guess.