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Attempting GCN "SuperBike" Build!

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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

Attempting GCN "SuperBike" Build!

Old 08-14-19, 08:09 AM
  #26  
mtarrant05
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Originally Posted by Leinster View Post
I think you both missed the “On A Budget” part of the video title. The purpose of the build was always to get maximum bang for minimum buck. AXS and Dura Ace are not budget choices. It is, as pointed out above, a “thought experiment” but for someone putting together a build, it’s a decent jumping-off point.

I like the idea of taking an old frame and putting modern parts on. As said above in a couple places, a vintage steel frame with 753 or Columbus SL would be a more fun project than an early 00’s Trek, but each to their own.
Funny you would mention that because I pivoted here! Saw a 1986 Peugeot Triathlon (PSN10) come up on Facebook. Perfect sizing. Picked it up yesterday. $200. 2 owners. Great condition.

This thing is LIGHT! Honestly, I may just throw some fresh tape, new brake cables, chain and call it a day for now.

Question for you guys- both rims are aluminum. Rear is a Wheelmaster LP18, replaced after bending the original popping a curb. The front is the OEM Mallard wheel. Should I replace that front wheel to match? Any value there? 700c.
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Old 08-14-19, 08:10 AM
  #27  
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Old 08-14-19, 10:43 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by horatio View Post
Have you checked out the "retro roadies" thread in C&V? Upgrading is more popular than you might think.

https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...i-s-ergos.html
I'm not ant-upgrade for vintage bikes. I upgraded from downtubes to brifters on my 1990 Cannondale and was thrilled with the results. It's just that those guys aren't playing with "real" money and we are, and it doesn't seem cost effective as opposed to buying a used bike that's five to ten years old.
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Old 08-14-19, 11:28 AM
  #29  
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If you're set on a super vintage bike sure go with a trek. If you're trying to build up a low cost monster I'd start with a CAAD9/10 frame
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Old 08-14-19, 01:18 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Leinster View Post
I think you both missed the “On A Budget” part of the video title. The purpose of the build was always to get maximum bang for minimum buck. AXS and Dura Ace are not budget choices. It is, as pointed out above, a “thought experiment” but for someone putting together a build, it’s a decent jumping-off point.

I like the idea of taking an old frame and putting modern parts on. As said above in a couple places, a vintage steel frame with 753 or Columbus SL would be a more fun project than an early 00’s Trek, but each to their own.
No, I get that.

The complete 105 groupset on my bike - cables, bottom bracket and everything - was $311.11 from England the month after Brexit was announced. The Dura Ace C24 wheels were $700 for the set on closeout. The frame was powder coated for $125. The FSA K-Wing is first gen aero, ovalized actually, and was dirt cheap. Etc.

It is all on a butted aluminum 2002 Fuji Robaix which started life with 9 speed triple and presently isn't too far off from what is being described.

Before



After



-Tim-
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Old 08-14-19, 06:39 PM
  #31  
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I'm gonna be between 400-500 bucks in to this bike when all's said and done. Not a screamin' deal, but works well enough for my needs.

Getting it together as I gather bits and pieces. Just waiting on the groupset to arrive from the other side of the planet now.

Starting to look kinda like a bike now. Seatpost height is way up, just for workstand clearance.
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Old 08-14-19, 06:50 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by TimothyH View Post
No, I get that.

The complete 105 groupset on my bike - cables, bottom bracket and everything - was $311.11 from England the month after Brexit was announced. The Dura Ace C24 wheels were $700 for the set on closeout. The frame was powder coated for $125. The FSA K-Wing is first gen aero, ovalized actually, and was dirt cheap. Etc.

It is all on a butted aluminum 2002 Fuji Robaix which started life with 9 speed triple and presently isn't too far off from what is being described.

Before



After



-Tim-
Huge improvement in looks!
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Old 08-14-19, 08:22 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by mtarrant05 View Post
Perfect sizing.

...

Should I replace that front wheel to match? Any value there? 700c.
If the size is right, why can't we see any seatpost?

No value. If you replace the front, put something better on. Don't worry about matching, I say
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Old 08-14-19, 08:24 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Seattle Forrest View Post
Huge improvement in looks!
When I first did it a few people said, "I like it better the way it was."

I kinda miss those Ritchey ergo bars.
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Old 08-20-19, 12:48 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by mtarrant05 View Post
Question for you guys- both rims are aluminum. Rear is a Wheelmaster LP18, replaced after bending the original popping a curb. The front is the OEM Mallard wheel. Should I replace that front wheel to match? Any value there? 700c.
I agree with the earlier comment. Very little seatpost showing there. Kind of a French fit. Why not buy a period correct tubular wheelset and see how that changes the feel of the bike?
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Old 08-21-19, 11:38 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by redlude97 View Post
If you're set on a super vintage bike sure go with a trek. If you're trying to build up a low cost monster I'd start with a CAAD9/10 frame
I kind of did both... Minus the Trek part. And I guess 1986 may not be "super vintage". Although, a few months ago, I picked up a 92 Trek 1400 with upgrading to GCN "super bike" was the thought. That bike is now with my son in law, he fell in love with it on sight.


1986 KHS Fiero. Low to Mid level bike. 105 5600 grifters, RD and FD, hubs, FSA compact crankset, SRAM Apex calipers in white. In 1991 I swapped in the Nishiki Prestige fork, stem and bars... Fun to ride. Fast enough for me. Bought the bike 30 years ago, when I updated it, found the 5600 set for less than $100, wheels were less than $80, the used crankset was $50. Still cheaper than finding a nice 5 year old used bike that ight weigh a pound less. I'm a Clydesdale, weights aren't as relavent in some aspects. Though, it is currently sitting at 25 pounds, 2 ounces...


2006 CAAD8 R1000 frame. Drivetrain is all SRAM, Red crankset, Force brifters Rival FD and RD. Tektro calipers, DT Swiss Giant Limited Edition wheelset. I'm in it on a very tight budget. So far still under $200. Granted. Many of the expensive parts are used and were gifts. I'm still adjusting and tuning the FD. It my get swapped for a Tiagra I have on hand, because the Rival seems finicky. It is the double tap? Not sure. But certainly to "ME" it seems a super bike. It weighs in at 18 pounds 5 ounces... Again, I reference, I am a Clydesdale...

I just got very very lucky with the CAAD8..

Last edited by zjrog; 08-21-19 at 11:57 AM.
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Old 08-22-19, 08:53 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by TimothyH View Post
No, I get that.

The complete 105 groupset on my bike - cables, bottom bracket and everything - was $311.11 from England the month after Brexit was announced. The Dura Ace C24 wheels were $700 for the set on closeout. The frame was powder coated for $125. The FSA K-Wing is first gen aero, ovalized actually, and was dirt cheap. Etc.

It is all on a butted aluminum 2002 Fuji Robaix which started life with 9 speed triple and presently isn't too far off from what is being described.

Before



After



-Tim-
Why did you bother with new wheels? Those Ksyrium SL wheels, though not at all aero despite the bladed spokes, are still incredibly solid and fairly lightweight.
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