Show your Trek Multitrack!
#402
Shanny
Women’s 750?
I don’t see any women’s step through frames. I’ve got a step through and it’s small. 17” frame. I’m 6’ so I don’t imagine it can work for me even with bigger wheels & seat extended all the way. Am I right? What height range would be appropriate for this frame? I will likely clean it up & sell it.
thanks for the input!
thanks for the input!
#403
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Northern Shenandoah Valley
Posts: 4,141
Bikes: More bikes than riders
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1446 Post(s)
Liked 762 Times
in
570 Posts
Steel bike frames used to be assembled with "lugs" (and still are in some cases, though usually from more boutique brands). Welding became the standard method of construction with time. Trek was using frame lugs in the early 1990s, and I think 1993 is the last MultiTrack to feature lugs. They went to all tig-welded in 1994 (again, I think that's the right year...it's somewhere in there).
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lugged...e_construction
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lugged...e_construction
#404
Hoards Thumbshifters
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Signal Mountain, TN
Posts: 1,157
Bikes: '23 Black Mtn MC, '87 Bruce Gordon Chinook, '08 Jamis Aurora, '86 Trek 560, '97 Mongoose Rockadile, & '91 Trek 750
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 246 Post(s)
Liked 338 Times
in
193 Posts
It'll work great. I take mine on light single track all the time (no jumps or super choppy stuff). The biggest tires I've had on mine are 42mm Speed Rides (which are actually 38mm on the 15mm Matrix Vapor rims). I could go up to about 45mm true width on my frame (1997 750), but I haven't yet.
#405
Hoards Thumbshifters
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Signal Mountain, TN
Posts: 1,157
Bikes: '23 Black Mtn MC, '87 Bruce Gordon Chinook, '08 Jamis Aurora, '86 Trek 560, '97 Mongoose Rockadile, & '91 Trek 750
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 246 Post(s)
Liked 338 Times
in
193 Posts
I don’t see any women’s step through frames. I’ve got a step through and it’s small. 17” frame. I’m 6’ so I don’t imagine it can work for me even with bigger wheels & seat extended all the way. Am I right? What height range would be appropriate for this frame? I will likely clean it up & sell it.
thanks for the input!
thanks for the input!
There is one year and one model of lugged step through or mixte, but I'm at a loss at the year. Very rare to find.
#406
Junior Member
Has anyone had success finding shift cables for the Suntour XCM Accushift shifters some of these came with? The shifters take a cable with a special end piece, I've only been able to find one on Amazon and it's just a bare cable. What housing size is stock?
#407
Go, CroMo, go!
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 212
Bikes: Custom Bantam AdventureBike,93 Bontrager Race mtb, 07 Lemond Poprad disc cyclocross, Black Mountain Cycle Road, 86 Bridgestone Mile 112, 89 Bridgestone MB-2, 93 Trek 750, 90 Trek 750, 90 Trek 930, 90 Diamondback Ascent.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked 19 Times
in
6 Posts
Accushift Pod cables
In a pinch you can also take a standard shift cable, put it in a vise so the head is sticking out the top, and carefully file away enough of the head that it fits in the Accushift pod - if memory serves they take a smaller than standard swagged head, right?
Mike M
#408
Junior Member
Thanks for the reply. I may just go with the basic Jagwire cable I found on Amazon, as it is compatible. I'm new to this so wasn't sure if regular 4mm shift cable housing would be compatible but it sounds like it will be.
I do hope the cable works, as in my mind it would be a shame to trash the Suntour XCM components, which were pretty nice back in the day and which I'm sure function perfectly well when adjusted properly and lubricated. I've noticed that on the rear derailleur at least, the upshifting is indexed while the downshifting is 'semi-indexed' in that there are clicks for each gear but the lever doesn't spring back or ratchet.
I've heard these bikes can get below 24 lbs. if built with 1x and modern components, which is what I would do if rebuilding the bike from scratch. As it is now I'm having too much fun on my local trails for the downtime and besides can't bring myself to take off perfectly good components.
I do hope the cable works, as in my mind it would be a shame to trash the Suntour XCM components, which were pretty nice back in the day and which I'm sure function perfectly well when adjusted properly and lubricated. I've noticed that on the rear derailleur at least, the upshifting is indexed while the downshifting is 'semi-indexed' in that there are clicks for each gear but the lever doesn't spring back or ratchet.
I've heard these bikes can get below 24 lbs. if built with 1x and modern components, which is what I would do if rebuilding the bike from scratch. As it is now I'm having too much fun on my local trails for the downtime and besides can't bring myself to take off perfectly good components.
Last edited by c0rbin9; 05-10-20 at 09:26 PM.
#409
Newbie
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Sautee Nacoochee, Ga.
Posts: 44
Bikes: 1993 Giant Rincon, 1993 Trek MultiTrack 720, 1977 Raleigh Super Course, Giant Innova, 1995 Trek MultiTrack 700 (stolen from my possession but still mine!)
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18 Post(s)
Liked 12 Times
in
8 Posts
I have those shifters on a 1993 720, and I replaced the front derailleur cable with the double-ended universal cable made by Jagwire. The cable end that fits the shifter housing is not an exact match, but it will stay in the housing. My shifters are still working fine. The universal cable fits standard cable housing if you need to replace the housing.
#410
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Northern Shenandoah Valley
Posts: 4,141
Bikes: More bikes than riders
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1446 Post(s)
Liked 762 Times
in
570 Posts
Last edited by hokiefyd; 05-12-20 at 08:14 AM.
#411
Full Member
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: The Lou
Posts: 340
Bikes: 82 Trek 710, 90 Trek 750, 86 Vitus, Nishiki Cervino, 1989 Bianchi CdI, 2 Nashbars, an Italian Steel MTB, Sears Spaceliner, and a 74 Schwinn Speedster. I also manage a fleet of Volcanic Patrol bikes, 83 of them.
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 109 Post(s)
Liked 234 Times
in
120 Posts
Or do what I did with my last Trek 750 and convert it to 3x9 with XT rear derailleur, XT cassette, Nitto Albatross bars, and 9-speed bar-end shifters.
Mike M[/QUOTE]
I recently finished a rebuild of my 90 750 and did about the same thing. I used Shimano 150 hubs, Mavic rims, XT rear and Sora front with Microtec shifters. I had forgotten how much fun it was to ride.
Mike M[/QUOTE]
I recently finished a rebuild of my 90 750 and did about the same thing. I used Shimano 150 hubs, Mavic rims, XT rear and Sora front with Microtec shifters. I had forgotten how much fun it was to ride.
Likes For GrayIS:
#413
Happy banana slug
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Arcata, California, U.S., North America, Earth, Saggitarius Arm, Milky Way
Posts: 3,696
Bikes: 1984 Araya MB 261, 1992 Specialized Rockhopper Sport, 1993 Hard Rock Ultra, 1994 Trek Multitrack 750, 1995 Trek Singletrack 930
Mentioned: 31 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1533 Post(s)
Liked 1,530 Times
in
917 Posts
#414
Happy banana slug
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Arcata, California, U.S., North America, Earth, Saggitarius Arm, Milky Way
Posts: 3,696
Bikes: 1984 Araya MB 261, 1992 Specialized Rockhopper Sport, 1993 Hard Rock Ultra, 1994 Trek Multitrack 750, 1995 Trek Singletrack 930
Mentioned: 31 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1533 Post(s)
Liked 1,530 Times
in
917 Posts
Any luck raising the bar? Pics?
#415
Junior Member
No pictures but I raised the bar and adjusted the brake cable as katsup mentioned. I adjusted it to the max height line on the stem, which is still low for me but I don't care enough to change it and it gets more comfortable the more I ride. Ideally I would have a riser bar and a taller stem for comfort/the dirt trails I ride, but I'm having too much fun on my local trails in this configuration to worry too much about it!
Likes For c0rbin9:
#416
Happy banana slug
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Arcata, California, U.S., North America, Earth, Saggitarius Arm, Milky Way
Posts: 3,696
Bikes: 1984 Araya MB 261, 1992 Specialized Rockhopper Sport, 1993 Hard Rock Ultra, 1994 Trek Multitrack 750, 1995 Trek Singletrack 930
Mentioned: 31 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1533 Post(s)
Liked 1,530 Times
in
917 Posts
No pictures but I raised the bar and adjusted the brake cable as katsup mentioned. I adjusted it to the max height line on the stem, which is still low for me but I don't care enough to change it and it gets more comfortable the more I ride. Ideally I would have a riser bar and a taller stem for comfort/the dirt trails I ride, but I'm having too much fun on my local trails in this configuration to worry too much about it!
#417
Full Member
I'm restoring this 720 back to service for my neighbor, it's circa 1994 (the tires were petrified) , it has not been ridden for about 15 or so years, she's excited to get it back.
#418
Senior Member
Here's a lugged 790 for sale in Madison. I'd be tempted to upgrade my 730 if it were my size, but 17" is too small: https://madison.craigslist.org/bik/d...124780288.html
#419
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Southeast US
Posts: 921
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 318 Post(s)
Liked 149 Times
in
104 Posts
I spray-painted the struts, after sanding and cleaning. I got a pretty good finish match with semi-gloss satin. (The struts are aluminum; Rust-Oleum is just what I had. on hand.)
There's a problem with the struts though. You can see they splay out toward the front, meaning I can't get two of the bolts in at the deck. I may have to make an adapter plate and get a couple more bolts.
More lighting and side reflector panels to come.
#421
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Southeast US
Posts: 921
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 318 Post(s)
Liked 149 Times
in
104 Posts
Yes, that's the idea. Trying not to stand out too much, if that makes any difference.
Also to protect the decals, since part of this bike's life includes being hidden in a drainage in the woods while I go off and do volunteer trail maintenance for half a day. The way in is through brush so things can get scraped up. The bike came to me in such good condition I feel obliged to protect it. Really, I'd be happier if I could have found something already distressed so I wouldn't have to worry about it, but there's little choice of used steel where I live and I was lucky to find this one.
Also, the part of me that likes to show off is not the best part of me. I've let it off leash in the past and it's better if I keep it contained. Covering up the flashy parts was an intentional act of humility. All in all, it seemed like the right way to go.
I cut out pieces of heavy-duty construction trash bag to match the shapes of the decals, taped those on with tiny pieces of scotch tape, then wrapped clear Gorilla tape over top. I didn't want to put tape directly on the decals. That mess on the seat tube is from trying to use pieces of inner tube as the protective layer, but even that was too thick and the Gorilla tape wouldn't conform to it so I switched to construction trash bag for the rest.
Also to protect the decals, since part of this bike's life includes being hidden in a drainage in the woods while I go off and do volunteer trail maintenance for half a day. The way in is through brush so things can get scraped up. The bike came to me in such good condition I feel obliged to protect it. Really, I'd be happier if I could have found something already distressed so I wouldn't have to worry about it, but there's little choice of used steel where I live and I was lucky to find this one.
Also, the part of me that likes to show off is not the best part of me. I've let it off leash in the past and it's better if I keep it contained. Covering up the flashy parts was an intentional act of humility. All in all, it seemed like the right way to go.
I cut out pieces of heavy-duty construction trash bag to match the shapes of the decals, taped those on with tiny pieces of scotch tape, then wrapped clear Gorilla tape over top. I didn't want to put tape directly on the decals. That mess on the seat tube is from trying to use pieces of inner tube as the protective layer, but even that was too thick and the Gorilla tape wouldn't conform to it so I switched to construction trash bag for the rest.
Last edited by rseeker; 05-18-20 at 12:21 AM.
#422
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Northern Shenandoah Valley
Posts: 4,141
Bikes: More bikes than riders
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1446 Post(s)
Liked 762 Times
in
570 Posts
Likes For hokiefyd:
Likes For combover:
#424
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Southeast US
Posts: 921
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 318 Post(s)
Liked 149 Times
in
104 Posts
I like that rubber washer idea.
Last edited by rseeker; 05-17-20 at 11:13 PM.
#425
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Northern Shenandoah Valley
Posts: 4,141
Bikes: More bikes than riders
Mentioned: 36 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1446 Post(s)
Liked 762 Times
in
570 Posts
That was my first try, inserting from the center like yours, but I had almost no room to fit a hex wrench in there, it was very slow going getting out the first screw tried. I wasn't sure if I got the second screw in there I'd ever be able to get it out without an unbelievable headache. Also, running the struts to the outside gave me better clearance for the straddle cable. I'll have to look again. I'd be braver if the screw heads accepted an open-end wrench, but these heads are round on the outside ... I can't tell if that's how yours are.
Likes For hokiefyd: