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The price of C&V membership

Old 07-10-20, 05:47 PM
  #51  
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Just noticed on the photo of the fork ends that the hub appears to be a red label Normandy Luxe Competition rather than the Normandy sport hubs common on the SC MKII bikes. The red label hubs had the distinctive red dust shields and a slightly smaller flange diameter than the earlier gold label hubs. I had a pair of Normandy Sport hubs in about that condition and tried to polish then, it was brutal. Hope your luck is better.
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Old 07-11-20, 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by branko_76
Nope, not aggressive at all. It's safe for the operator and the work. This isn't the final step, I use NEVR-DULL wadding polish for a mirror shine.

Polishing metal or plastic or whatever is the process of removing material, or leveling the surface. The smoother the surface is, the shinier it gets.
I'll be darned. What grit do you start with after the wheel? I assume after 1000-1500 grit, the polish takes over?

-Kurt
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Old 07-12-20, 10:52 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by branko_76
My apologies to non-fixie , I don't want to derail this thread, just sharing my experiences of restoring old road bikes and encourage anyone to re-use as many of the original parts as you can...
No worries! Being the OP doesn't make this my thread. It is our thread.
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Old 07-12-20, 11:03 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by cudak888
I'll be darned. What grit do you start with after the wheel? I assume after 1000-1500 grit, the polish takes over?

-Kurt
After the wheel, I use NEVR-DULL and then buff with a microfiber cloth. You could use 0 then 00 then 000 then 0000 steel wool after the wheel and before the polish but I like to keep things simple.

1500 grit? I have a stereo microscope used for parts inspection but let's not get crazy...
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Old 07-12-20, 11:07 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by desconhecido
Just noticed on the photo of the fork ends that the hub appears to be a red label Normandy Luxe Competition rather than the Normandy sport hubs common on the SC MKII bikes. The red label hubs had the distinctive red dust shields and a slightly smaller flange diameter than the earlier gold label hubs. I had a pair of Normandy Sport hubs in about that condition and tried to polish then, it was brutal. Hope your luck is better.
I like these high flange Normandy hubs.I have them on several bikes, and they are smooth and look great. These are horribly oxidized though, and while I'll definitely try to get the shine back (the smoothness is still there, believe it or not) it is not a short term objective. Expect the first road-going version of this bike to wear a different set of wheels.
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Old 07-12-20, 11:16 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by branko_76
....also, the seatpost size would be another clue.....
Did I mention it is 26.4?

It is 26.4.
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Old 07-12-20, 11:18 AM
  #57  
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Funny what moves folks. More power to you!
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Old 07-12-20, 11:43 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by non-fixie
Did I mention it is 26.4?

It is 26.4.
That would indicate Reynolds 531 Plain Gauge tubing which is what early SC's were built with.

The forged dropouts are a nice bonus.
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Old 07-12-20, 11:55 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by Last ride 76
Funny what moves folks. More power to you!
Thanks. BTW, we seem to have a "76" theme developing here.
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Old 07-12-20, 03:18 PM
  #60  
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Hi, Maarten. I saw this bike on Markplaats, happy that YOU pulled the trigger and got it especially because it's your size! I am sure it will be a nice ride! By the way, I saw another Super Course MKII about a month ago or so at my LBS. It was a customer's bike and was outfitted with Suntour derailleurs and Power shifters, the rest I can't remember unfortunately. Cranks were definetely not Stronglight and I think it had no derailleur hanger, but I am not sure anymore. I should have paid more attention. The color was copper/orange as far as I remember.
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Old 07-12-20, 03:47 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by non-fixie
I am confident the oxidation and rust are mostly Dutch. I really can't imagine anyone taking the trouble to bring along a bike from the PNW to Holland in this condition. (I mean, I can of course, but not the SO who would condone that. )

And thank you for the feedback on the saddle. Much appreciated!
There is a a small company here in Portland that sells shoes among other products. Their European HQ is the NL. A few people do get transferred to the NL office. When they do, their shipment allowance is generous. It’s one thing to pack a bike when you are traveling on your own. When you are moving house and the corporation is paying for it, if something would be nice to have, you take it. So, yeah, I can see how a less than top notch Portland bike could end up in the NL.

Last edited by Mr. Spadoni; 07-12-20 at 09:03 PM.
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Old 07-13-20, 03:55 PM
  #62  
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I dismantled the bike today, as far as I could. Most parts came out/off easily, except for the bar stem and the headset lock nut. They won't budge, so they are currently soaking in WD40. Hope that helps.

The chrome is not great, but should polish up decently. The paint is in bad shape. The white has gone all chalky, and the red is bubbly because of the rust beneath. It will have to come off, I'm afraid.

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Old 07-13-20, 04:55 PM
  #63  
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Maarten,

How do you feel about it? It’s still going to be a great bike and wonderful rider even with a new coat. IMO, it’s worth giving it a lot more years of use by you and a few more people later on. Understandable that the first preference is original paint...
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Old 07-13-20, 06:15 PM
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What happens if you hit the chalky white paint directly with polish?

-Kurt
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Old 07-14-20, 04:47 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by cudak888
What happens if you hit the chalky white paint directly with polish?

-Kurt
What I have been doing is to use Renaissance Wax for oxidized paint. Rub it in gently and let it dry then buff it lightly. Sometimes I'll apply the wax a couple more times. It seems to preserve and feed the paint.
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Old 07-14-20, 06:37 AM
  #66  
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A conundrum indeed. How are the painting/powder coating options in the low part of the world?
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Old 07-14-20, 08:59 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by Narhay
A conundrum indeed. How are the painting/powder coating options in the low part of the world?
Poorly represented here imho. you can pay $100 for a powdercoat job, which may be good or it may be crap. OR, pay $275 for a guaranteed beauty.
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Old 07-14-20, 01:16 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by 3speedslow
Maarten,

How do you feel about it? It’s still going to be a great bike and wonderful rider even with a new coat. IMO, it’s worth giving it a lot more years of use by you and a few more people later on. Understandable that the first preference is original paint...
To be honest, my main interest is in the size and geometry of the frame. In my quest for The Perfect Bike For Me, this is an interesting find. For it to successfully fulfill this role, it will have to look good, so a repaint is not a problem. On the contrary. Usually I am all for keeping things original, but in this case I am glad it is not a rare collectors' item or museum piece and the paint is shot so I can "have my way with it".

BTW, the lock nut is now free, but the stem is still stuck. Added more WD40 and hoping for better luck tomorrow.
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Old 07-14-20, 02:44 PM
  #69  
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For the stuck stem quill, I've had good luck with heating the stem and then letting it cool.

The heat expands the quill lengthwise which helps break much of the bond within the steerer.

I will apply a penetrant as the stem/steerer are cooling, having cooled down below the smoking temperature.

A lot of heat can be applied before the head tube starts to get hot, but the handlebar will try to pull heat out of the stem.

If you can secure the crown in a vise then you'll more easily apply twisting force through the quill.

Last edited by dddd; 07-14-20 at 02:47 PM.
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Old 07-14-20, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by dddd
For the stuck stem quill, I've had good luck with heating the stem and then letting it cool.

The heat expands the quill lengthwise which helps break much of the bond within the steerer.

I will apply a penetrant as the stem/steerer are cooling, having cooled down below the smoking temperature.

A lot of heat can be applied before the head tube starts to get hot, but the handlebar will try to pull heat out of the stem.

If you can secure the crown in a vise then you'll more easily apply twisting force through the quill.
Thanks for those tips. I might actually need them.
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Old 07-14-20, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by J.Higgins
What I have been doing is to use Renaissance Wax for oxidized paint. Rub it in gently and let it dry then buff it lightly. Sometimes I'll apply the wax a couple more times. It seems to preserve and feed the paint.
I'm glad you mention this -- I just bought some Renaissance Wax to use on a vintage Mercian frame based on advice on the blog Restoring Vintage Bicycles form the Handbuilt Era: https://restoringvintagebicycles.com...oduct-reviews/

I have yet to do more than a quick spot test, but I am hopeful it will preserve the patina.
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Old 07-14-20, 08:40 PM
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Cut the stem off to drop the fork. Invert fork steerer in tub of nasty-nasty lye. Stem gets eaten up.

I'd highly suggest doing a mechanically pleasing build on this first and riding it. Never commit to a paint job until you know the bike rides well...

-Kurt
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Old 07-14-20, 08:52 PM
  #73  
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As for the stuck stem maybe turn the whole frame and bars upside down add some solvent oil from the bottom of the fork let it sit overnight. Then just get the biggest adjustable wrench you can turn it tight as you can then turn with all you might and hope for the best..
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Old 07-16-20, 02:29 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by cudak888
Cut the stem off to drop the fork. Invert fork steerer in tub of nasty-nasty lye. Stem gets eaten up.

I'd highly suggest doing a mechanically pleasing build on this first and riding it. Never commit to a paint job until you know the bike rides well...

-Kurt
Had a good think and decided to take the easy route, with the littlest chance of breaking important stuff or twisting the fork blades all out of alignment.

So today I got the drain cleaner, the goggles, the rubber gloves and the recipe for Swedish Mojitos.

First order of business was to remove the upper part of the stem. Turns out sawing it out wasn't really a viable option anyway. Death stems? Not Gerry's:



About the build: I'm still in two minds about that. I agree with you reasoning, but I'll be doing the paintwork myself anyway, so maybe $40 worth of paint and a couple of days of my time, which is not like I'm robbing my pension fund. And I would like it to be finished and tested before a planned week of cycling in Italy in September ....

Perhaps the Mojitos will help in making that decision as well.
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Old 07-16-20, 03:37 PM
  #75  
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non-fixie love the thread and the bike. Just wanted to add some info for reference.

I have the same color and same size MK II with Stronglight 93, jubilee rear mech (original owner replaced front) challenger or jubilee front mech would have been from factory, and forged rear dropouts with hanger. I have also read some came with nervar star crank. The forged dropouts apparently was a 25.5" only thing (from what I have researched, so take with a grain of salt).

Keep us posted with the progress. If you repaint are you going factory color scheme?
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