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I'm giving up on my Brooks Cambium: a rant and a question.

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I'm giving up on my Brooks Cambium: a rant and a question.

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Old 06-26-17, 02:18 PM
  #76  
J.Higgins 
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Originally Posted by BobG
I'm still tweaking the fit. Any higher and I get complaints from Mr. Johnson and his two friends.
You crack me up, Bob!
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Old 06-26-17, 03:49 PM
  #77  
Chuck Naill
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
Can you do the same? Almost every article you read on saddle tilt says level is best. Sheldon Brown, as well as others, suggest a level saddle. If there is any tilt to the recommended tilt is 1° to 2° at most. Otherwise you rise pressure and/or chafing on the perineum if the nose is too high or you put pressure on the hands and shoulders while sliding forward if the nose is too low.

A 2° tilt has the nose 0.5mm higher than a flat saddle. It's hardly measurable. A 9° tilt which is now allowed in UCI competition has the nose 2mm (thickness of a dime) higher than a flat saddle. By eyeball, it would be hard to tell if a saddle had a 9° tilt.



Most saddle that I've seen are not curved at all. Brooks saddles aren't. You can put a straight edge on them...I use a level...and the level touches the saddle from nose to tail.


I don't need to. I didn't suggest what most cyclists do as you did. Level is a good starting point, but that was not what you wrote. You said most riders use a level saddle. I asked you to prove it and you can't. Mr. Brown's recommendation does not provide you with a validation for making a statement that is easily refutable because it is easily unknowable.


I know what a saddle looks like. I also know the difference between pipe used for water and the type used for gas. You have a bad habit of answering questions that were never asked.
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Old 06-26-17, 04:23 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
A 2° tilt has the nose 0.5mm higher than a flat saddle. It's hardly measurable. A 9° tilt which is now allowed in UCI competition has the nose 2mm (thickness of a dime) higher than a flat saddle. By eyeball, it would be hard to tell if a saddle had a 9° tilt.
Your trig is way off, Stuart.
On a 270 mm long saddle, 2° results in about 9.4 mm height differential between nose and rear, while 9° results in 42.2 mm height differential.
Hardly "difficult to eyeball" as you surmised.
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Old 06-26-17, 04:35 PM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by Chuck Naill
I don't need to. I didn't suggest what most cyclists do as you did. Level is a good starting point, but that was not what you wrote. You said most riders use a level saddle. I asked you to prove it and you can't. Mr. Brown's recommendation does not provide you with a validation for making a statement that is easily refutable because it is easily unknowable.
I did say "and others". Just about every article you read on-line or in magazines or in books suggest a level saddle. And for good reason. Even a slight upward tilt will irritate bits that you don't want irritated.

Originally Posted by Chuck Naill
I know what a saddle looks like. I also know the difference between pipe used for water and the type used for gas. You have a bad habit of answering questions that were never asked.
And where did that come from? Aw, yes. The ol' BF "if I don't have a valid argument, I'll try to discredit the poster" ploy.

Originally Posted by IK_biker
Your trig is way off, Stuart.
On a 270 mm long saddle, 2° results in about 9.4 mm height differential between nose and rear, while 9° results in 42.2 mm height differential.
Hardly "difficult to eyeball" as you surmised.
Depends on where you put the pivot. I was measuring from the nose to the seatpost which is the pivot point. On the other hand, 9mm is 0.4" which is still difficult to eyeball.
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Old 06-26-17, 05:24 PM
  #80  
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My C17 broke my ass for the first few rides. Now I find myself skipping the chamois about half the time. Even on rocky and very rooty trails.
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Old 06-26-17, 05:30 PM
  #81  
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
Depends on where you put the pivot. I was measuring from the nose to the seatpost which is the pivot point. On the other hand, 9mm is 0.4" which is still difficult to eyeball.
Now you are just trying to squirm your way out of your previous statement.

Here are a few simple facts:
- It does not matter where you "put the pivot" since your argument was about eyeballing a height differential between nose and rear of a saddle.
- Either 0.4" or 9 mm is not difficult to eyeball unless your eyesight is long gone.
- You were not "measuring" anything as you only speculated, poorly at that, some ignorant tomfoolery.
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Old 06-26-17, 06:17 PM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by IK_biker
Now you are just trying to squirm your way out of your previous statement.
Upon further review, I did make an error but it was one of units. I put in centimeters and looked at my results in millimeters. It happens.



Originally Posted by IK_biker
some ignorant tomfoolery.
That is uncalled for.
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Old 06-27-17, 06:55 AM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by Mtroup
My C17 broke my ass for the first few rides. Now I find myself skipping the chamois about half the time. Even on rocky and very rooty trails.
My ass loves the C17. I never had a problem with that part. I wish the rest of me could love the saddle.
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Old 06-27-17, 08:51 AM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by Rob_E
I like my Cambium. I've had it since February. Until recently I only had a couple of extended rides. A couple of weeks ago I spent about 10 days biking from Cleveland, Ohio to Cumberland, Maryland. Mileages varied from 25 miles to 85 miles. Didn't really think about the saddle. That's a win in my book.
That is a very nice ride. I rode from Newark/Granville area outside of Columbus to DC in 2014. Great trip. I very much enjoyed biking all around Ohio. Amazing bike path network and much friendlier roads than we have down here in Texas. I had a Brooks Flyer Special on the bike that I had up there. Same saddle still on same bike. We have 3 Brooks Flyers in our stable, 2 are mine and wife rides the other, women's version. We also have two B17 Specials. All very comfortable.

I have the Velo Orange touring saddle with springs on another bike. Made by Geyes, I believe. Thicker leather than the Brooks. Would buy that one again, too.

My preference is a leather hammock style saddle. That being said, I can be comfortable on many different saddles. I have an older, beat up Serfas leather saddle w/ minimal padding on my go to C&V Univega Sport Tour. Don't notice that one, either. WTB saddles have also worked well for me in the past. Minimal padding and saddle set up/positioning w/ good bike fit is key for me. I can ride many different types and makes of saddles, as needed.
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Old 06-27-17, 09:27 PM
  #85  
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msquared, here are my thoughts. I rode a B017 for a several years and it started good but the second year I had it I began getting saddle sores and pain in the same area. My sit bones were fine, in fact they were awesome, the saddle was so comfortable, yet it was really messing up the soft tissue in front of the sit bones. In fact it got so bad I went to the doctor which was a total waste of money and time. The only other saddle I had was a Specialized BG2 which has elastomer underneath the sit bones and it didn't help.

I eventually decided to just start buying saddles. The first one I bought was a San Marco Rolls. It was instantly very uncomfortable, and yet I found I could ride it for a few hours with discomfort and my problem began to heal. I tried a Regal a bit later and it was a little better, still uncomfortable but over a month riding these saddles the big sore lumps went away.

I eventually tried a Specialized Romin and found it was very comfortable and didn't give me lumps.

On a recent tour I tried a different, though old and used Brooks, and guess what, super comfortable at first, then lump city. The pain originates right at the end of the front metal place the leather is attached to.

So my theory is that the soft stretchy saddles like Brooks and saddles with rubber, deform under my sit bones and spread around pressure all over which over time causes skin damage in the soft tissue that shouldn't be under pressure.

Hard non flexing seats are far less comfortable, but don't do damage.
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Old 07-04-17, 10:33 AM
  #86  
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I have a very experienced female friend who rode her lady parts bloody on a Brooks on PBP (1200k). Took her 6 months to recover. No, a Brooks is only the best saddle for those for whom it's the best saddle. Unfortunately they think it's the end-all for everyone. It is not. She now rides a conventional saddle with a cut-out with no problems.

My wife and I both (weird, huh?) are currently riding this saddle: Forté Sweep Gel Fit Saddle

Matchy-matchy on our tandem. For $40, why not? My wife also has lady part issues with many saddles and I can get numbies, but this one works for us both. IME exact saddle adjustment is highly overrated. The right saddle with work very well within quite a range of adjustment.

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Old 07-04-17, 10:57 PM
  #87  
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saddle adjustment is important to me. seat height, tilt, and fore/aft. Goes with cleat adjustment also.
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Old 07-05-17, 06:41 PM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by msquared22
For touring, everyone is all Brooks, Brooks, Brooks, Brooks.
Other tensioned leather saddle manufacturers/suppliers: Berthoud, Cardiff, Dia Compe, Gyes, Lepper, Papillionaire, Persons, Rivet, Sella Italia, Selle Anatomica, Selle Monte Grappa, Spa, Tops, Torelli and Velo Orange.

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