Post Your Pearls That "Most" Others Don't Know or Do
#101
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I see a lot of people mentioning the stuff (tools, tubes, etc.) they have in their seat bags; am I the only person who's dispensed with the seat bag and carries the tool / repair stuff in a wide-mouth water bottle?
Easy to move from bike-to-bike, keeps a firm cap on how much stuff I can carry (tube, glueless patches, CO2 head/cartridges(2), Pedros lever, multi-hex tool); can mount it wherever (I have both frame mounts and a behind-saddle mount) - or even in a jersey pocket if need be; waterproof; easy to check contents (e.g., if it rattles a lot, I didn't replace the inner tube yet).
Easy to move from bike-to-bike, keeps a firm cap on how much stuff I can carry (tube, glueless patches, CO2 head/cartridges(2), Pedros lever, multi-hex tool); can mount it wherever (I have both frame mounts and a behind-saddle mount) - or even in a jersey pocket if need be; waterproof; easy to check contents (e.g., if it rattles a lot, I didn't replace the inner tube yet).
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#103
Junior Member
newspaper dryer
If you get soaked while riding, often the most problematic thing is getting your shoes dry by the next day's ride.
When you get home, immediately take the insoles out of your shoes and lay them out to dry. Fill the shoes with crumpled up newspaper. Leave them sit like that while you shower and so on. Change the newspaper an hour or two later, then again before bed, and you'll likely have decently dry shoes the next morning.
When you get home, immediately take the insoles out of your shoes and lay them out to dry. Fill the shoes with crumpled up newspaper. Leave them sit like that while you shower and so on. Change the newspaper an hour or two later, then again before bed, and you'll likely have decently dry shoes the next morning.
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#104
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I use the Garmin radar.
#105
For The Fun of It
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I make a couple of wraps with Gorilla Tape around one of my tire levers. I have yet to use it, but I figure with a tire slice it could pass for a make shift inside tire patch to get me home.
#106
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I see a lot of people mentioning the stuff (tools, tubes, etc.) they have in their seat bags; am I the only person who's dispensed with the seat bag and carries the tool / repair stuff in a wide-mouth water bottle?
Easy to move from bike-to-bike, keeps a firm cap on how much stuff I can carry (tube, glueless patches, CO2 head/cartridges(2), Pedros lever, multi-hex tool); can mount it wherever (I have both frame mounts and a behind-saddle mount) - or even in a jersey pocket if need be; waterproof; easy to check contents (e.g., if it rattles a lot, I didn't replace the inner tube yet).
Easy to move from bike-to-bike, keeps a firm cap on how much stuff I can carry (tube, glueless patches, CO2 head/cartridges(2), Pedros lever, multi-hex tool); can mount it wherever (I have both frame mounts and a behind-saddle mount) - or even in a jersey pocket if need be; waterproof; easy to check contents (e.g., if it rattles a lot, I didn't replace the inner tube yet).
#107
Rider
Quirky things...
I do the same....wipe my rolling front tire with my gloved hand. Use a water bottle to wipe the rear tire.
#108
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Just yesterday, I pedaled my Salsa Fargo across a Blue Stem Prairie, along a piece of single track. When I got to the top of the hill and out of the prairie, I stopped to check my tires fort thorns, burrs, and sticks. A jogging Dad and his pedaling daughter stopped and asked what I was doing. The Dad told the daughter to check her tires, too. About 20 minutes later, my rear tire started going flat. Ha! Yep, a tiny pin hole puncture. I usually do that quirky thing you mentioned but, this time, I did not find them all.
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#109
Junior Member
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#111
de oranje
Unclick on the left side. Otherwise the tatoo indicates that your a newbie.
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#113
ole skool cyclist
do you recall tire scrappers?
On today's ride, it struck me that there are sometimes "quirky" things we cyclists do that are a good idea (possibly) but not commonly known or done.
Here is one of mine:
After riding near glass or even shardy looking grit, I reach down with my hand and briefly brush off the front and rear tires. This loosens any sharps before they get into the tread and, I believe, reduces the risk of flat tires. The down side is you may wear out your glove or even slightly injure your hand (if you use direct skin contact) but for me it's worthwhile.
I don't ever see my friends do this. It's a habit I picked up from my cycling days in Baltimore back in the 1980's where broken glass on the streets was common.
Feel free to critique and/or post your own gems of wisdom that are not commonly known.
Here is one of mine:
After riding near glass or even shardy looking grit, I reach down with my hand and briefly brush off the front and rear tires. This loosens any sharps before they get into the tread and, I believe, reduces the risk of flat tires. The down side is you may wear out your glove or even slightly injure your hand (if you use direct skin contact) but for me it's worthwhile.
I don't ever see my friends do this. It's a habit I picked up from my cycling days in Baltimore back in the 1980's where broken glass on the streets was common.
Feel free to critique and/or post your own gems of wisdom that are not commonly known.
#114
Junior Member
Quirky pedal pads
For those using clip-in (Look or Shimano SPD-SL) road pedals, do you prefer the feel of zero-float cleats but want to be able to occasionally change your foot toe-in angle over the course of a long ride ? Then buy max float cleats and try this:
Cut a 40mm long section out of a 1.75 or 2.25 inch or larger tire tube, one for each pedal.
Cut a hole in one side of the tube for the pedal spindle.
Stretch the tube over your pedal, position it to cover the platform, stay clear of the clip. Bigger tube size involves less stretching and is thus easier. Pre-stretch and use a tongue depressor.
The layer of rubber between cleat and pedal dampens the pivoting. You will still be able to position your foot anywhere within the cleat float range, but you will no longer expend energy or muscular tension to hold it in that position through every crank rotation. It's a different feeling standing to climb, no more swivelling around like you stepped on a wet bar of soap. Another way to describe it is, you can throw a baseball harder if you don't have to worry about aiming it.
The tube layer thickness will make it harder to clip in and out. Practice unclipping a few times before first ride. You might need to back off the clip tension adjustment screw. And bump saddle height up a millimeter or two.
The rubber will wear down and need replaced every so often, but you can cut alot of these out of a single tube. Also tried gluing flat rubber pads directly on the pedal, but this actually is easier and lasts longer. I carry a couple of spares in saddlebag, and use them on all my bike's pedals, including trainer.
This is not for everybody. If your knees like and make use of the "float" pedal-swiveling freedom with each stroke, this might hurt your knees, don't do it. For me, it's the opposite, my knees like the stability through each revolution, and the ability to tweak to other foot positions without having to dismount and fuss with cleat screws.
Cut a 40mm long section out of a 1.75 or 2.25 inch or larger tire tube, one for each pedal.
Cut a hole in one side of the tube for the pedal spindle.
Stretch the tube over your pedal, position it to cover the platform, stay clear of the clip. Bigger tube size involves less stretching and is thus easier. Pre-stretch and use a tongue depressor.
The layer of rubber between cleat and pedal dampens the pivoting. You will still be able to position your foot anywhere within the cleat float range, but you will no longer expend energy or muscular tension to hold it in that position through every crank rotation. It's a different feeling standing to climb, no more swivelling around like you stepped on a wet bar of soap. Another way to describe it is, you can throw a baseball harder if you don't have to worry about aiming it.
The tube layer thickness will make it harder to clip in and out. Practice unclipping a few times before first ride. You might need to back off the clip tension adjustment screw. And bump saddle height up a millimeter or two.
The rubber will wear down and need replaced every so often, but you can cut alot of these out of a single tube. Also tried gluing flat rubber pads directly on the pedal, but this actually is easier and lasts longer. I carry a couple of spares in saddlebag, and use them on all my bike's pedals, including trainer.
This is not for everybody. If your knees like and make use of the "float" pedal-swiveling freedom with each stroke, this might hurt your knees, don't do it. For me, it's the opposite, my knees like the stability through each revolution, and the ability to tweak to other foot positions without having to dismount and fuss with cleat screws.
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#115
ole skool cyclist
When riding on my trainer I've cut a water bottle in half to use it for holding the TV remote. It is easier than having to have it in a jersey or on a table.
#116
ole skool cyclist
I keep an entire roll in my camera backpack. If I'm hiking or riding its nice to know its there. I got caught on a section of the Buckeye Trail a few years ago and I'm lucky I'd put some napkins in with the camera because It was drizzling and my thought was I might need something to dry the camera. That's not how it went.
#117
ole skool cyclist
like cleaning hands after a repair
#118
Senior Member
When slowing down to a stop, we often downshift, anticipating the need for the correct gear to get rolling again. There was a period of time that I would do this without considering which position my chainring was in. Often times, I was in the big ring, leading to a downshift being in a big-big configuration (ie. cross chaining).
Now, whenever coming to a stop, I simply shift the front derailleur to the small ring. Whatever rear cassette gear I'm in, is not really a big deal.
I know this might sound silly, stupid or obvious, but it really does help.
Pedal On, Brothers.
Now, whenever coming to a stop, I simply shift the front derailleur to the small ring. Whatever rear cassette gear I'm in, is not really a big deal.
I know this might sound silly, stupid or obvious, but it really does help.
Pedal On, Brothers.
#120
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All Shimano rear derailleurs that are 6, 7, 8, 9, or 10 speed have the same amount of pull, and so are interchangeable. So there is no such thing as, for example, a "7 speed Shimano rear derailleur" all of them pull the same amount of cable per shift. There is a rare proprietary 8 speed Dura Ace shifter/rear derailluer combination, but I have never run into it.
#122
Newbie
Paper copy
I keep a paper copy of my license, credit card. Medical card, and people to contact in my saddle bag.
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I keep a cotton ball in my saddle bag so when I get a flat, it's a easy way to find if there's something stuck in the inside of the tire that will puncture the new tube.
I also have a expired driver's license in my saddle bag since I don't carry a wallet when I ride. That way I do have ID if needed, besides a BikeID on my ankle with emergency phone numbers.I once got stopped by a cop and harassed because i didn't have ID. (long story).[/QUOTE]
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I keep a cotton ball in my saddle bag so when I get a flat, it's a easy way to find if there's something stuck in the inside of the tire that will puncture the new tube.
I also have a expired driver's license in my saddle bag since I don't carry a wallet when I ride. That way I do have ID if needed, besides a BikeID on my ankle with emergency phone numbers.I once got stopped by a cop and harassed because i didn't have ID. (long story).[/QUOTE]
#124
Senior Member
I see a lot of people mentioning the stuff (tools, tubes, etc.) they have in their seat bags; am I the only person who's dispensed with the seat bag and carries the tool / repair stuff in a wide-mouth water bottle?
Easy to move from bike-to-bike, keeps a firm cap on how much stuff I can carry (tube, glueless patches, CO2 head/cartridges(2), Pedros lever, multi-hex tool); can mount it wherever (I have both frame mounts and a behind-saddle mount) - or even in a jersey pocket if need be; waterproof; easy to check contents (e.g., if it rattles a lot, I didn't replace the inner tube yet).
Easy to move from bike-to-bike, keeps a firm cap on how much stuff I can carry (tube, glueless patches, CO2 head/cartridges(2), Pedros lever, multi-hex tool); can mount it wherever (I have both frame mounts and a behind-saddle mount) - or even in a jersey pocket if need be; waterproof; easy to check contents (e.g., if it rattles a lot, I didn't replace the inner tube yet).
#125
Senior Member
The idea of wasting a water bottle mounting point just to avoid using a saddlebag is bonkers where I ride. And I struggle to understand the motivation for it. "It's ugly!" Says who? Is it uglier than having this huge lump on your lower back because you've shoved all the same stuff into a jersey pocket instead? Or have a tool keg mounted to the frame instead of a water bottle? As far as aerodynamics goes I have a hard time believing a tool keg mounted further forward on the frame and at a lower height is more aerodynamic than a reasonable saddle bag, since the saddlebag is in the lee of your thighs, the seatpost, etc. People are gonna do what they're gonna do, but as long as there's a need to be prepared to self-recover during long solo or group rides without external support, the saddlebag is just about the perfect option for putting the necessaries.
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