Vintage front hub???
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Vintage front hub???
Can anyone tell me about this front hub? It fits the new fork I have for the Hercules project.
It is a "Formula" Bicycle Hub w/36 spoke.
Are replacement bearings available to rebuild it?
It is a "Formula" Bicycle Hub w/36 spoke.
Are replacement bearings available to rebuild it?
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The bearings are very likely fine, but if you want to replace them it won't be hard.
Usually what goes first is the cones, which tend to get pitted after a while because hubs are typically too tight from the factory, and cheap hubs like this one usually don't benefit from a rescue.
If it feels rough and you can't adjust it be smooth, the cones are pitted but the bearings are probably still okay. Once they go, they take the cups with them shortly after and thus the hub.
Usually what goes first is the cones, which tend to get pitted after a while because hubs are typically too tight from the factory, and cheap hubs like this one usually don't benefit from a rescue.
If it feels rough and you can't adjust it be smooth, the cones are pitted but the bearings are probably still okay. Once they go, they take the cups with them shortly after and thus the hub.
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It seems to be a standard cup-and-cone hub and bearing balls (typically 10x3/16" per side) are commonly available at any bike shop and many hardware and auto parts stores. If the cones are pitted, finding matching new ones can be done at many bike shops but, as Kimmo noted, it's not a high qualtiy hub and buying a new one might be more sensible.
BTW, all but the cheapest or very old bikes use 100 mm OLD front hubs so getting a replacement should be easy.
BTW, all but the cheapest or very old bikes use 100 mm OLD front hubs so getting a replacement should be easy.
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The use of the discription "vintage" for this 1990s hub is just wrong. No sense of history... Andy.
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I would rebuilt is as the grease in those hubs is typically pretty lousy and dries out fast. It needs something with lower viscosity (more runny, I think lower is the right adjective. correct me if wrong). If the cones are fine, I would still replace the bearings. I always replace the bearings unless the hub is unused. Use lower grade bearings like 100. While the grade refers to the roundness, it also seems that better grade bearings are harder and against the soft cones and races of that hub they will pulverize any dirt that get in into the races instead of taking the damage themselves. It is better to ruin the bearings than your cones and races.
Lastly, as other have pointed out, it might better go pick up a used shimano MTB hub of better quality from the late 1980s or early 1990s. It will last longer and look better as they tend to be narrower through the center.
Lastly, as other have pointed out, it might better go pick up a used shimano MTB hub of better quality from the late 1980s or early 1990s. It will last longer and look better as they tend to be narrower through the center.
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Andy is correct and your reply was uncalled for, spelling notwithstanding. 1990's isn't vintage, 1950's is. What it means to you is your bike very likely has the modern 100 mm front dtropout spacing and getting a current hub is both easy and worthwhile if that one has damaged cones or races.
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I agree with Andy. It grinds me to see anything less than my current commuting bike (1972) described as vintage. We'll forgive just once ebgbs, you touched a nerve. Also, you ought to post to the C&V forum for advice on old stuff. You will get additional insight.
-G
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Andy is correct and your reply was uncalled for, spelling notwithstanding. 1990's isn't vintage, 1950's is. What it means to you is your bike very likely has the modern 100 mm front dtropout spacing and getting a current hub is both easy and worthwhile if that one has damaged cones or races.
#10
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to be pedantic about it, vintage does NOT necessarily mean old, the original meaning is a wine from a specified year. a 2011 wine is still a vintage.
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thanks for the "forgiveness", you don't know how I appreciate that! If "vintage" was an inappropriate reference, that's all that needed to be said, not some snide comment... with an attitude no less!
#14
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loose ball cup and cone ? clean, inspect bearing races, replace balls with new of same size, grease and re assemble.
cartridge bearings if its good , its good. feel rough? might be cheaper to use a new hub, than buy new bearings, at retail..
cartridge bearings if its good , its good. feel rough? might be cheaper to use a new hub, than buy new bearings, at retail..
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I do like fietsbob's definition of the difference between "old" and "vintage". Marketing-speak at it's finest.
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THX!
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OK, Andrew is a long time and highly knowledgeable and respected contributer to this forum. I'm sure he didn't mean to insult you and you are way too touchy. Let's all relax.
I do like fietsbob's definition of the difference between "old" and "vintage". Marketing-speak at it's finest.
I do like fietsbob's definition of the difference between "old" and "vintage". Marketing-speak at it's finest.
"Let's all relax!"
I got just the thing:
!
so... my "old" vintage hub is just that! I will polish it and make it PRETTY as I can and overhaul it just for the practice AND the dexterity development.
THANKS
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+1 Some things are vintage, most are just old.
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ebgbz- Unlike much of the mannor of discussion on this medium I try to not single out people by name when I have a gripe. I believe that we all need a little possibility to save some face as we can. By using my real name is my part of being up front and honest with my stands.
As I have said before, many of my posts are directed at far more then the OP. When I feel the need to be more direct i usually use the OP's "name". Sorry if my pet peeve of having so many years of bike business seemingly be considered old fashioned came across as an attack. It's my computer/key board capicity that's old fashioned and lacking. I had to use an outside spelling dictionary three times to write this reply . Andy.
As I have said before, many of my posts are directed at far more then the OP. When I feel the need to be more direct i usually use the OP's "name". Sorry if my pet peeve of having so many years of bike business seemingly be considered old fashioned came across as an attack. It's my computer/key board capicity that's old fashioned and lacking. I had to use an outside spelling dictionary three times to write this reply . Andy.
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Andy, download a free copy of "ieSpell". It's a small spell checker that lets you spell check forum postings and similar right on your computer. I use it a lot and am always sorry when I neglect to do so.
#21
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or the Google chrome browser will spell check as you type. right click on the word with the red squiggly and it offers a choice of corrections...
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Well now isn't this special!!!After all of the "grinding" about old V vintage, the old hub I mentioned isn't going to work after all. It seems that original fork is bent and it needed to be replaced. I found a nice chrome replacement that has the new/retro look that I'm after. The axle is to big to fit into the slots. So...I'm going to search for a NOS hub that is the right size and will be vintage NOT just old!
#23
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the slots in the fork tips? thats been standardized since like the mid 60s.
do you have a dial caliber? can you measure the diameter of the axle tips on your hub, and the width of the slots on these forks? I'm curious. if its only a small difference, I think I'd file or dremel the fork tips a little wider.
do you have a dial caliber? can you measure the diameter of the axle tips on your hub, and the width of the slots on these forks? I'm curious. if its only a small difference, I think I'd file or dremel the fork tips a little wider.
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Agreed. Very odd that the fork you have doesn't fit the hub. THe only forks I have seen that do not fit the standard F axles are old 3 speeds and some old dept. store bikes.
If the fork is second-hand, it is possible that the fork ends have been damaged - slammed into a condrete floor or something... or just very very very old.
If the fork is second-hand, it is possible that the fork ends have been damaged - slammed into a condrete floor or something... or just very very very old.
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the slots in the fork tips? thats been standardized since like the mid 60s.
do you have a dial caliber? can you measure the diameter of the axle tips on your hub, and the width of the slots on these forks? I'm curious. if its only a small difference, I think I'd file or dremel the fork tips a little wider.
do you have a dial caliber? can you measure the diameter of the axle tips on your hub, and the width of the slots on these forks? I'm curious. if its only a small difference, I think I'd file or dremel the fork tips a little wider.
That's what I thought would be a reasonable solution.