Vapor phase degreaser
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Vapor phase degreaser
Just wondering is anybody using a vapor phase degreaser? Ed
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The idea of inhaling anything designed to remove grease doesn't appeal to me, and I doubt it appeals to many people either...
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Actually when operated correctly the vapor phase degreaser doesn't allow vapors to escape. They condense on a cold coil located around the top of the tank and flow back into the boiling liquid reservoir.
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I used to use a vapor degreaser to clean parts back when I was running a decent size shop (not bike shop). It was economical and eddective using halogenated solvents, but when the restrictions on CFCs went in to effective, the cost of solvents got too high, and I phased out it's use.
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One of the great joys of the internet is to be attacked by someone who has no idea what they're talking about. In this case and not being British but one of the lesser races we very seldom put bike parts up our noses to clean them. There are only two types of people in the world. Those who are British, and eternally blessed, and those who wish vainly they were. Ed
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After reading a bunch of threads, I've been experimenting with the ultrasonic cleaners. I'm fairly impressed. 3 times through the longest timed phase, and my chain is very clean - most importantly between the links. Don't know if that would meet your needs, just throwing it out there.
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Years ago when I was working a summer job at a laboratory we had a vapor phase degreaser that used trichloroethane as the cleaning solvent. I vividly remember accidently sticking my hand below the cooling coil and right into the hot vapors. WOW, did my had get dried and "degreased" fast! I never made that mistake again.
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Years ago when I was working a summer job at a laboratory we had a vapor phase degreaser that used trichloroethane as the cleaning solvent. I vividly remember accidently sticking my hand below the cooling coil and right into the hot vapors. WOW, did my had get dried and "degreased" fast! I never made that mistake again.
Last edited by onespeedbiker; 02-14-13 at 12:06 AM.
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After reading a bunch of threads, I've been experimenting with the ultrasonic cleaners. I'm fairly impressed. 3 times through the longest timed phase, and my chain is very clean - most importantly between the links. Don't know if that would meet your needs, just throwing it out there.
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[QUOTE=FBinNY;15271142]I used to use a vapor degreaser to clean parts back when I was running a decent size shop (not bike shop). It was economical and eddective using halogenated solvents, but when the restrictions on CFCs went in to effective, the cost of solvents got too high, and I phased out
I think a small homemade degreaser would be useful, Say a 2 or 3 gallon can with a half gallon of solvent. Ed
I think a small homemade degreaser would be useful, Say a 2 or 3 gallon can with a half gallon of solvent. Ed
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The benefit of vapor degreasers is that they continually distill the solvent so the solvent applied to the part being cleaned, and subsequent vapor that condenses on the part being cleaned is free of contaminants allowing the part essentially free of any grease or lube. For bike parts, IMO, this level of cleanliness is not required or not necessarily that desirable.
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I have seen many of these in industrial settings and have always been impressed with their performance. I would use one if I had access to one, but wouldn't think it cost effective to acquire one just for bike stuff.
-G
-G
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"I think a small homemade degreaser would be useful, Say a 2 or 3 gallon can with a half gallon of solvent."
Vapor degreasers are fairly complicated to operate properly; the amount of heat in the boiling sump and the cooling coils need to be fairly closely controlled to maintain the vapor blanket and to avoid vapor loss. This would be more problematic in a small system like you propose.
Vapor degreasers are fairly complicated to operate properly; the amount of heat in the boiling sump and the cooling coils need to be fairly closely controlled to maintain the vapor blanket and to avoid vapor loss. This would be more problematic in a small system like you propose.
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"I think a small homemade degreaser would be useful, Say a 2 or 3 gallon can with a half gallon of solvent."
Vapor degreasers are fairly complicated to operate properly; the amount of heat in the boiling sump and the cooling coils need to be fairly closely controlled to maintain the vapor blanket and to avoid vapor loss. This would be more problematic in a small system like you propose.
Vapor degreasers are fairly complicated to operate properly; the amount of heat in the boiling sump and the cooling coils need to be fairly closely controlled to maintain the vapor blanket and to avoid vapor loss. This would be more problematic in a small system like you propose.
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For home use on bike parts, a coffee can and solvent such as mineral spirits or naphtha work very effectively with a few rinses. The solvent can be recovered and stored in a closed container.
The solid dirt will settle out in a few days and the solvent reused, though eventually it loses effectiveness as it gets contaminated with oil. I keep used solvent in two classes, pretty oily for the the first wash, slightly oily for rinses, and I use fresh for the final rinse. As the solvents get oilier, I'll settle then discard the oiliest into my #2 fuel tank, and move each batch down.
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Just because I'm tired of arguing, doesn't mean you're right.
“One accurate measurement is worth a thousand expert opinions” - Adm Grace Murray Hopper - USN
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The problem isn't building a small DIY unit. It's the availability of decent non-flammable solvents. With the phase out of the halogenated solvents (contain chlorine, or fluorine) most of the reasonable priced solvents are flammable. That's OK with a well built well run commercial unit, but makes running anything that vaporizes solvents hazardous unless the vapors are 100% contained.
For home use on bike parts, a coffee can and solvent such as mineral spirits or naphtha work very effectively with a few rinses. The solvent can be recovered and stored in a closed container.
The solid dirt will settle out in a few days and the solvent reused, though eventually it loses effectiveness as it gets contaminated with oil. I keep used solvent in two classes, pretty oily for the the first wash, slightly oily for rinses, and I use fresh for the final rinse. As the solvents get oilier, I'll settle then discard the oiliest into my #2 fuel tank, and move each batch down.
For home use on bike parts, a coffee can and solvent such as mineral spirits or naphtha work very effectively with a few rinses. The solvent can be recovered and stored in a closed container.
The solid dirt will settle out in a few days and the solvent reused, though eventually it loses effectiveness as it gets contaminated with oil. I keep used solvent in two classes, pretty oily for the the first wash, slightly oily for rinses, and I use fresh for the final rinse. As the solvents get oilier, I'll settle then discard the oiliest into my #2 fuel tank, and move each batch down.
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A small unit is not going to use much solvent. For most of us a gallon would be a lifetime supply. I've got a 11/2 gallon Branson ultrasonic cleaner that works very well. I just like trying different things. Ed
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