Fit for First Bike
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Fit for First Bike
I'm looking to get my first road bike as I want to get into triathlons.
I'd be willing to spend at the very most $1700. Would certainly buy used. No idea what size to get so I did all the measurements on competitive cyclist but that didn't help much with the three different fits.
I was hoping to get some guidance here from all you pros.
Here are my measurements:
Height: 5' 11" Inseam: 32"
Trunk: 29" Forearm: 12"
Arm: 23" Thigh: 21"
Lower Leg: 22" Sternal Notch: 57"
I'd be willing to spend at the very most $1700. Would certainly buy used. No idea what size to get so I did all the measurements on competitive cyclist but that didn't help much with the three different fits.
I was hoping to get some guidance here from all you pros.
Here are my measurements:
Height: 5' 11" Inseam: 32"
Trunk: 29" Forearm: 12"
Arm: 23" Thigh: 21"
Lower Leg: 22" Sternal Notch: 57"
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Pretty sure that a 56 would be the best fit, given your measurements, which are roughly the same as mine.
If you’re “just getting into TRI” then I’d presume you’re looking at Sprint-distance, in which case, pretty much any general-purpose Road bike would do; something like a Cannondale Synapse or a Specialized Roubaix, as opposed to a ‘race’ bike like a CAAD or an Allez.
I wouldn’t worry about things like aero bars or disc wheels just yet; as a rookie age-group competitor, it won’t make a huge difference for your first race or two.
If you get a few races under your belt, and decide you want to start training for a Half or Full Ironman distance, then you’ll probably want to add a dedicated tri bike to the fleet.
Good news on that front is that TRI-geeks love to upgrade their stuff, and used tri bikes often sell for less money and with less wear than road bikes of the same vintage, due to the purpose-built nature of that kind of bike.
If you’re “just getting into TRI” then I’d presume you’re looking at Sprint-distance, in which case, pretty much any general-purpose Road bike would do; something like a Cannondale Synapse or a Specialized Roubaix, as opposed to a ‘race’ bike like a CAAD or an Allez.
I wouldn’t worry about things like aero bars or disc wheels just yet; as a rookie age-group competitor, it won’t make a huge difference for your first race or two.
If you get a few races under your belt, and decide you want to start training for a Half or Full Ironman distance, then you’ll probably want to add a dedicated tri bike to the fleet.
Good news on that front is that TRI-geeks love to upgrade their stuff, and used tri bikes often sell for less money and with less wear than road bikes of the same vintage, due to the purpose-built nature of that kind of bike.
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Pretty sure that a 56 would be the best fit, given your measurements, which are roughly the same as mine.
If you’re “just getting into TRI” then I’d presume you’re looking at Sprint-distance, in which case, pretty much any general-purpose Road bike would do; something like a Cannondale Synapse or a Specialized Roubaix, as opposed to a ‘race’ bike like a CAAD or an Allez.
I wouldn’t worry about things like aero bars or disc wheels just yet; as a rookie age-group competitor, it won’t make a huge difference for your first race or two.
If you get a few races under your belt, and decide you want to start training for a Half or Full Ironman distance, then you’ll probably want to add a dedicated tri bike to the fleet.
Good news on that front is that TRI-geeks love to upgrade their stuff, and used tri bikes often sell for less money and with less wear than road bikes of the same vintage, due to the purpose-built nature of that kind of bike.
If you’re “just getting into TRI” then I’d presume you’re looking at Sprint-distance, in which case, pretty much any general-purpose Road bike would do; something like a Cannondale Synapse or a Specialized Roubaix, as opposed to a ‘race’ bike like a CAAD or an Allez.
I wouldn’t worry about things like aero bars or disc wheels just yet; as a rookie age-group competitor, it won’t make a huge difference for your first race or two.
If you get a few races under your belt, and decide you want to start training for a Half or Full Ironman distance, then you’ll probably want to add a dedicated tri bike to the fleet.
Good news on that front is that TRI-geeks love to upgrade their stuff, and used tri bikes often sell for less money and with less wear than road bikes of the same vintage, due to the purpose-built nature of that kind of bike.
I was thinking I'd get the best road bike I could that would be good for long distance rides and upgrade as I go. I don't see myself spending over 10K on a bike but could see myself upgrading this one as far as it will take me and if I'm not satisfied at that point plopping down 7-8K at that time.
I've been perusing eBay, theprocloset and some other used bike sites and have seen some Cervelo S2s, S3s, Orbea Orca M30, Felt AR3, Specialized Roubaix, Specialized Roubaix SL4, Specialized Tarmac,
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You can get a dream bike for 7000 dollars, that is for darn sure.
I would only add that sizing and fitting are a bit of art and a bit of science, in my view. If you have some shops in your aea, I would strongly urge you to try a couple different sizes before buying--it that is possible. I say this because I am 6'1" and 190 with long arms and long inseam and I ride a 56 that is perfect for me. And I do not race.
I would only add that sizing and fitting are a bit of art and a bit of science, in my view. If you have some shops in your aea, I would strongly urge you to try a couple different sizes before buying--it that is possible. I say this because I am 6'1" and 190 with long arms and long inseam and I ride a 56 that is perfect for me. And I do not race.
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You can get a dream bike for 7000 dollars, that is for darn sure.
I would only add that sizing and fitting are a bit of art and a bit of science, in my view. If you have some shops in your aea, I would strongly urge you to try a couple different sizes before buying--it that is possible. I say this because I am 6'1" and 190 with long arms and long inseam and I ride a 56 that is perfect for me. And I do not race.
I would only add that sizing and fitting are a bit of art and a bit of science, in my view. If you have some shops in your aea, I would strongly urge you to try a couple different sizes before buying--it that is possible. I say this because I am 6'1" and 190 with long arms and long inseam and I ride a 56 that is perfect for me. And I do not race.
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Check this out---https://www.competitivecyclist.com/Store/catalog/fitCalculatorBike.jsp?
You really have to try different bikes because every bike is a little different---saddle position, stem length and angle, bar depth and drop can make different sized frames fit differently, and there is no "perfect" size for anyone. A 56 cm frame should probably be a good start ... but don't be put off if a bike has a different listed size but feels right.
You really have to try different bikes because every bike is a little different---saddle position, stem length and angle, bar depth and drop can make different sized frames fit differently, and there is no "perfect" size for anyone. A 56 cm frame should probably be a good start ... but don't be put off if a bike has a different listed size but feels right.
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#8
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Is there a bike shop near you? You could ask if anyone knows a good shop in your area. Local bike shops need all the help they can get, sadly they are being crushed by the giant snake.
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Is it likely that any 54cm bike will be too small? Just asking because I saw a bunch on ebay for good prices that I put on my watchlist just in case so I could circle back to them but if 54 will be too small I can get rid of them and narrow down my search
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Third, don't buy a bike on eBay. It's the worst of all possible worlds unless you're a collector and have in-depth knowledge, and are able to discern both quality and condition from a photograph.
Fourth, consider buying used - especially in the time trial bike category - because these folks are often upgrading and selling off entry level bikes. If your focus will be triathlons, then a TT bike is the accepted tool of the trade. A road bike can be made to work, but you'll need to get the very best aerodynamic positioning that you can with it.
So, tell us where you're located.
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First off, you've come to the right place. Second, you should put your approximate locale in your profile, so that folks can make market-specific recommendations for you.
Third, don't buy a bike on eBay. It's the worst of all possible worlds unless you're a collector and have in-depth knowledge, and are able to discern both quality and condition from a photograph.
Fourth, consider buying used - especially in the time trial bike category - because these folks are often upgrading and selling off entry level bikes. If your focus will be triathlons, then a TT bike is the accepted tool of the trade. A road bike can be made to work, but you'll need to get the very best aerodynamic positioning that you can with it.
So, tell us where you're located.
Third, don't buy a bike on eBay. It's the worst of all possible worlds unless you're a collector and have in-depth knowledge, and are able to discern both quality and condition from a photograph.
Fourth, consider buying used - especially in the time trial bike category - because these folks are often upgrading and selling off entry level bikes. If your focus will be triathlons, then a TT bike is the accepted tool of the trade. A road bike can be made to work, but you'll need to get the very best aerodynamic positioning that you can with it.
So, tell us where you're located.
I have no problem buying used at all. Actually prefer it as long as the bike is in pretty damn good condition.
What about places like bikeexchange.com or theprocloset.com?
I've read that TT bikes might not be best to start on as they're fairly uncomfortable for new riders. Am I off base with that?
Last edited by L90; 01-06-20 at 11:51 AM.
#12
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Posting a size like 56 is meaningless these days, when so many companies use different methods to determine frame size and some don't use numbers at all. If the inseam that was listed is a cycling inseam, not a pants inseam, then the OP has legs that are a bit on the short side. I'm only 5'-6" tall, but my cycling inseam is 32-5/8" or 83cm. My saddle height is 73cm, but at my height, I sure wouldn't ride a 56.
I'd go to a local shop and at least try to sit on a couple of sizes to get a rough idea for the proper size. These days, the dimensions to look at are stack and reach.
A triathlon bike is usually quite a bit different than a road bike, unless you just put some aero bars on the bike and consider it a triathlon bike.
Just looking at a low level Specialized tri bike, you'd probably pick a medium to accommodate your torso length, but the small would better fit your leg length.
https://www.specialized.com/us/en/sh...237595-154497#
I'd go to a local shop and at least try to sit on a couple of sizes to get a rough idea for the proper size. These days, the dimensions to look at are stack and reach.
A triathlon bike is usually quite a bit different than a road bike, unless you just put some aero bars on the bike and consider it a triathlon bike.
Just looking at a low level Specialized tri bike, you'd probably pick a medium to accommodate your torso length, but the small would better fit your leg length.
https://www.specialized.com/us/en/sh...237595-154497#
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As for what bike you need for triathlons, you'll find that opinions vary. Put in the work, and any bike will be adequate. Here's a short article with one author's approach:
https://www.mychicagoathlete.com/iro...d-vs-tri-bike/
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The riding position on a tri bike is optimized for efficiency, both in aero and in power delivery, to save the leg muscles for the run. The rider position is rotated more forward and ‘open’ at the waist to achieve this; Steering geometry in particular is ‘slowed down’ to improve stability at the expense of handling, but Tri courses are usually flat and straight.
If you’re going to use a Tri ‘race’ bike for general road riding and training, you may find that the position and control layout isn’t great for going out on the road with other traffic.
There are a number of tweaks you can do to a ‘standard’ road bike that would make it suitable for Tri, without compromising it as much for other types of riding.
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When I started riding I was 5'10 1/2" with a 32 1/2" inseam. I rode a 54 but I could have ridden a 56. Try them all. You will find that you can ride a range of frame sizes.
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Check this out---https://www.competitivecyclist.com/Store/catalog/fitCalculatorBike.jsp?
You really have to try different bikes because every bike is a little different---saddle position, stem length and angle, bar depth and drop can make different sized frames fit differently, and there is no "perfect" size for anyone. A 56 cm frame should probably be a good start ... but don't be put off if a bike has a different listed size but feels right.
You really have to try different bikes because every bike is a little different---saddle position, stem length and angle, bar depth and drop can make different sized frames fit differently, and there is no "perfect" size for anyone. A 56 cm frame should probably be a good start ... but don't be put off if a bike has a different listed size but feels right.
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The Pro's Closet is a good source of used component parts. Buying a complete bike from them could work (I've never done it), but you're faced with the sizing and geometry questions that cannot be answered over the internet.
As for what bike you need for triathlons, you'll find that opinions vary. Put in the work, and any bike will be adequate. Here's a short article with one author's approach:
As for what bike you need for triathlons, you'll find that opinions vary. Put in the work, and any bike will be adequate. Here's a short article with one author's approach:
I agree with what you posted @DaveSSS. I'll add that a road bike can be adapted to be nearly the same (touch point) geometry as a time trial bike, by eliminating the saddle set back, shortening and lowering the stem, and fitting aero bars. But this should be done by someone who is competent in fitting. These changes are reversible, and one could (in theory) have separate seatposts/saddles and stem/bar/controls that could be swapped back and forth to set the bike up for different purposes. Sure, it's ungainly, but it could be done with a bit of skill and planning, and a few extra inner cables and housings cut to fit the particular application.
Any brands/model suggestions? Or maybe brands/models to stay away from?
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Nope
You'll need to figure that out for yourself. How much are you willing to spend? That's the question. The rest is simply details. I built a pretty nice carbon road bike for $1800. But I paid myself nothing, and was willing to wait 60-90 days for component parts...
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These are the bikes I've found on some used sites for decent prices. If anybody could give me some advice on them I'd really really appreciate it. If there are any to just immediately eliminate or ones that are especially good. Just so I have some guidance on where to start in terms of research and which bikes to try out. Any experiences with them, anything is really helpful!
Cervelo: S5, S3, S2, P2
Specialized: Tarmac Expert SL3, Tarmac Expert SL4, Roubaix, Roubaix Comp, Roubaix SL4 Pro Race, Venge Expert
Felt: FR3, AR3
Orbea: Orca M30, Orca Aero M20
Pinarello: Gan 105
Bianchi: Aria
BMC: Teammachine SLR01
Eddy Merckx: EMX-3
Cervelo: S5, S3, S2, P2
Specialized: Tarmac Expert SL3, Tarmac Expert SL4, Roubaix, Roubaix Comp, Roubaix SL4 Pro Race, Venge Expert
Felt: FR3, AR3
Orbea: Orca M30, Orca Aero M20
Pinarello: Gan 105
Bianchi: Aria
BMC: Teammachine SLR01
Eddy Merckx: EMX-3
#22
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Base your initial trials on which bikes are available to test ride within a reasonable distance from your home. Start there. Nail down a budget and stick to it. That way, you won't be chasing more bike than you intend to purchase. If you find a bike shop that's willing to listen, ask questions and try to help you find the right bike for you, well, then that's where you should purchase. The bike really doesn't matter that much at the end of the day.
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Don't buy anything without testing it out. I ride a 56 cm bike that fits me perfectly and I'm 5'8 with long legs. Mine is a women's specific design though so the reach is a little shorter to compensate for my shorter torso in comparison with my legs.
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I'm a lot smaller than you but I've been looking at bikes and the size varies a LOT. In one brand I'm best with a 50cm and in another I can use 54cm. Also there is a lot of room to move the seats and bars around. Does are this way too. I take a 43 or 44 depending on the brand of shoe.
So the best people can do here is offer generic advice. You are best off to look at bikes in person. But on pedals and shoes and put the bike on a trainer stand or rollers and have someone who knows about fit look at you.
every brand uses a different way to measure so all 56cm frames are not the same.
So the best people can do here is offer generic advice. You are best off to look at bikes in person. But on pedals and shoes and put the bike on a trainer stand or rollers and have someone who knows about fit look at you.
every brand uses a different way to measure so all 56cm frames are not the same.
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I totally get I need to try the bikes out for fit before buying.
I listed those bikes out to see if there was any reason not to get one or maybe one if it fits I should definitely be more interested in than others.
Maybe some would not be comfortable for the long rides of a triathlon or maybe one of these models is a great choice for certain reasons and I should prioritize trying over others. I just don't know...
I listed those bikes out to see if there was any reason not to get one or maybe one if it fits I should definitely be more interested in than others.
Maybe some would not be comfortable for the long rides of a triathlon or maybe one of these models is a great choice for certain reasons and I should prioritize trying over others. I just don't know...