Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Can I convert to a skewer on rear axle?

Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Can I convert to a skewer on rear axle?

Old 09-27-20, 07:31 PM
  #1  
msdumo
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Calabogie, ON
Posts: 56

Bikes: 96 Raleigh Grand Prix, 2002 Norco Avanti, 2017 Norco Malahat, 2021 VoltBike 750

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 27 Post(s)
Liked 5 Times in 4 Posts
Can I convert to a skewer on rear axle?

I have a 35 yr Raleigh MTB and would like to be able to remove the rear wheel so it fits in my car.
It has a 5 speed freewheel and requires a wrench to remove the rear wheel.
Do I just have to swap the axle that is fixed with nuts for a hollow axle that has a skewer or do I have to respoke to a new hub?
msdumo is offline  
Old 09-27-20, 07:34 PM
  #2  
cxwrench
Senior Member
 
cxwrench's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 3,767

Bikes: lots

Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1958 Post(s)
Liked 2,932 Times in 1,489 Posts
All you need is a new axle w/ the proper length and thread pitch. Swap axles, throw in a q/r and you're done. The q/r axle will NOT be the same length as your current axle, it will need to be a bunch shorter.
cxwrench is offline  
Old 09-27-20, 07:58 PM
  #3  
Andrew R Stewart 
Senior Member
 
Andrew R Stewart's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,003

Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4172 Post(s)
Liked 3,792 Times in 2,271 Posts
I'll add that with an older bike the chance it has horizontal rear drop out slots is likely. So the current crop of QE skewers with an exposed cam lever riding on a curved bit of plastic might not be enough to positively secure the rear wheel in place. A more classicly designed QR with it's cam enclosed in the cap will offer greater clamping pressure. Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
Andrew R Stewart is offline  
Likes For Andrew R Stewart:
Old 09-28-20, 06:56 AM
  #4  
andrewclaus
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Golden, CO and Tucson, AZ
Posts: 2,822

Bikes: 2016 Fuji Tread, 1983 Trek 520

Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 669 Post(s)
Liked 725 Times in 422 Posts
Take care to exactly match the the axle thread to your cones and nuts. Your bike might have a 3/8" (9.5 mm) x 26 TPI. Most hollow rears are 10 x 1 mm.
andrewclaus is offline  
Likes For andrewclaus:
Old 09-28-20, 08:48 AM
  #5  
ClydeClydeson
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 1,606
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 581 Post(s)
Liked 921 Times in 518 Posts
Also, pay attention to the thickness of the dropouts of the frame. Many bikes have thin stamped steel dropouts that require very short amounts of axle protruding from the locknut so the quick release can move far enough in to clamp the dropouts. If the axle is too long it will impede the travel of the QR. It might feel like the QR is tightening against the dropout but it will only be pushing against the axle.
ClydeClydeson is offline  
Likes For ClydeClydeson:
Old 09-28-20, 09:45 AM
  #6  
leob1
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Middle of the road, NJ
Posts: 3,137
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 292 Post(s)
Liked 106 Times in 69 Posts
I've done that in the past. I replaced the axel, and the cones/locknuts. It fit, but the ball bearings rode in a different part of the cups. It rolled fine, but it never felt as secure as it should have been.
Good luck.
leob1 is offline  
Old 09-28-20, 09:56 AM
  #7  
70sSanO
Senior Member
 
70sSanO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Mission Viejo
Posts: 5,772

Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR400 (Flat bar commuter), 1988 Cannondale Criterium XTR, 1992 Serotta T-Max, 1995 Trek 970

Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1935 Post(s)
Liked 2,150 Times in 1,313 Posts
It might help to post a pic of the rear dropout so people will see what you have, thin stamped or thicker forged.

John
70sSanO is offline  
Old 09-28-20, 02:26 PM
  #8  
Retro Grouch 
Senior Member
 
Retro Grouch's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: St Peters, Missouri
Posts: 30,225

Bikes: Catrike 559 I own some others but they don't get ridden very much.

Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1572 Post(s)
Liked 642 Times in 363 Posts
Check posts 3,4,5 & 6. It can be done, but there are a lot of details to check for. Since your purpose is to carry the bike in the trunk of your car, it might be simpler, cheaper and more reliable to toss a 15mm wrench into your car and be done with it.
__________________
My greatest fear is all of my kids standing around my coffin and talking about "how sensible" dad was.
Retro Grouch is offline  
Likes For Retro Grouch:
Old 09-28-20, 02:37 PM
  #9  
msdumo
Newbie
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Calabogie, ON
Posts: 56

Bikes: 96 Raleigh Grand Prix, 2002 Norco Avanti, 2017 Norco Malahat, 2021 VoltBike 750

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 27 Post(s)
Liked 5 Times in 4 Posts
Originally Posted by Retro Grouch
Check posts 3,4,5 & 6. It can be done, but there are a lot of details to check for. Since your purpose is to carry the bike in the trunk of your car, it might be simpler, cheaper and more reliable to toss a 15mm wrench into your car and be done with it.
That is the conclusion I came to. Just too many things to get right. The 15mm wrench in the car works.
Thanks guys!
msdumo is offline  
Likes For msdumo:
Old 09-28-20, 02:41 PM
  #10  
Gresp15C
Senior Member
 
Gresp15C's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 3,893
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1062 Post(s)
Liked 665 Times in 421 Posts
Originally Posted by msdumo
That is the conclusion I came to. Just too many things to get right. The 15mm wrench in the car works.
Thanks guys!
Don't forget, you'll need it along if you get a flat. A couple of my bikes have gear hubs or coaster hubs, so I've always carried an axle wrench in my sag bag.
Gresp15C is offline  
Old 09-29-20, 10:03 AM
  #11  
ClydeClydeson
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 1,606
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 581 Post(s)
Liked 921 Times in 518 Posts
Originally Posted by Gresp15C
Don't forget, you'll need it along if you get a flat. A couple of my bikes have gear hubs or coaster hubs, so I've always carried an axle wrench in my sag bag.
This


Flat tires are just about the most common repair that needs to be done on a bike, so you should carry with you whatever you need to fix a flat wile riding. IF you have nutted axles, bring a wrench along with your spare tube/patch kit, and pump. If you're lucky you'll seldom need it and will forget it's there.
ClydeClydeson is offline  
Likes For ClydeClydeson:
Old 09-29-20, 10:15 AM
  #12  
Gresp15C
Senior Member
 
Gresp15C's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 3,893
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1062 Post(s)
Liked 665 Times in 421 Posts
Originally Posted by ClydeClydeson
This

Flat tires are just about the most common repair that needs to be done on a bike, so you should carry with you whatever you need to fix a flat wile riding. IF you have nutted axles, bring a wrench along with your spare tube/patch kit, and pump. If you're lucky you'll seldom need it and will forget it's there.
Indeed, and nutted axles are the original quick release. Half a turn, pop the wheel out. Sure you have to reach into your sag bag for the wrench, but unless someone's about to hand you a spare wheel, you'll be reaching into the bag anyway.
Gresp15C is offline  
Old 09-29-20, 11:10 AM
  #13  
70sSanO
Senior Member
 
70sSanO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Mission Viejo
Posts: 5,772

Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR400 (Flat bar commuter), 1988 Cannondale Criterium XTR, 1992 Serotta T-Max, 1995 Trek 970

Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1935 Post(s)
Liked 2,150 Times in 1,313 Posts
I shudder to post this as I fear I will be banished from the BF Bicycle Mechanics subforum. I happened to see this and, now for the banishing part... on Amazon. It is a quick release adapter for solid axles. I appears to be a 2 piece device with a threaded internal cam, a good thing, and a sliding collar. It uses the same principle as a standard quick release skewer. albeit it, one is needed for each axle end for each wheel. I have never used this product and can't guarantee that you won't be stranded miles from you car. Which means having to carry axle nuts and a wrench as a backup. That said it is an interesting approach.

You need to watch the video through to the end.

https://www.amazon.com/Axle-Release-.../dp/B004Y97ZLK

John
70sSanO is offline  
Old 09-29-20, 11:41 AM
  #14  
2old
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: socal
Posts: 4,219
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 872 Post(s)
Liked 795 Times in 603 Posts
Originally Posted by Retro Grouch
Check posts 3,4,5 & 6. It can be done, but there are a lot of details to check for. Since your purpose is to carry the bike in the trunk of your car, it might be simpler, cheaper and more reliable to toss a 15mm wrench into your car and be done with it.
Agree heartily. I replaced a QR on a Deore hub with a nutted axle for an e-bike (reverse of what you're considering) and it was easy, then back to QR when I used the wheel on a cruiser with no motor, but would carry a wrench rather than consider what you're thinking about.
2old is offline  
Old 09-29-20, 11:42 AM
  #15  
Gresp15C
Senior Member
 
Gresp15C's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 3,893
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1062 Post(s)
Liked 665 Times in 421 Posts
Originally Posted by 70sSanO
I shudder to post this as I fear I will be banished from the BF Bicycle Mechanics subforum. I happened to see this and, now for the banishing part... on Amazon. It is a quick release adapter for solid axles. I appears to be a 2 piece device with a threaded internal cam, a good thing, and a sliding collar. It uses the same principle as a standard quick release skewer. albeit it, one is needed for each axle end for each wheel. I have never used this product and can't guarantee that you won't be stranded miles from you car. Which means having to carry axle nuts and a wrench as a backup. That said it is an interesting approach.

You need to watch the video through to the end.

https://www.amazon.com/Axle-Release-.../dp/B004Y97ZLK

John
Just to make sure you're not alone in banishment...

Does it come with lawyer lips?
Gresp15C is offline  
Likes For Gresp15C:
Old 09-29-20, 09:03 PM
  #16  
Thomas15
I think I know nothing.
 
Thomas15's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: NE PA
Posts: 711
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 233 Post(s)
Liked 290 Times in 204 Posts
Slightly different but same mental exercise. I was given a fairly decent rear wheel with a freewheel hub. I wanted to use it as a spare for my Asian steel bike. My dropouts measure 126mm the new wheel was for I think 130mm maybe wider but it wouldn't even come close to fitting my bike. I didn't want to cold set the frame.

I spent weeks trying in my head to come up with a solution. Two issues, the axle is too long and the lock nuts and spacers too long. Finally I told myself this is a bicycle not the space shuttle. I measured the length of the original axle and the distance from the lock nut on the freewheel to the end of the axle on the drive side. Took the long axle to work and had the machine shop trim it. I next through trial and error removed spacers and mixed and matched spacers and nuts and used some 2 and 3 mm spacers I had. After a bit of tinkering and swapping of nuts and spacers I got the thing to fit the bike and shift perfect without having to adjust the RD. The last thing I had to do was dish the wheel. That was actually the hardest part of this particular job. If I can do this anyone can my advice is just do it it's a bicycle not the space shuttle. Or carry a wrench around with you to remove the wheel.

Last edited by Thomas15; 09-30-20 at 05:50 AM.
Thomas15 is offline  
Old 09-30-20, 10:37 AM
  #17  
70sSanO
Senior Member
 
70sSanO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Mission Viejo
Posts: 5,772

Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR400 (Flat bar commuter), 1988 Cannondale Criterium XTR, 1992 Serotta T-Max, 1995 Trek 970

Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1935 Post(s)
Liked 2,150 Times in 1,313 Posts
Originally Posted by Thomas15
Slightly different but same mental exercise. I was given a fairly decent rear wheel with a freewheel hub. I wanted to use it as a spare for my Asian steel bike. My dropouts measure 126mm the new wheel was for I think 130mm maybe wider but it wouldn't even come close to fitting my bike. I didn't want to cold set the frame.

I spent weeks trying in my head to come up with a solution. Two issues, the axle is too long and the lock nuts and spacers too long. Finally I told myself this is a bicycle not the space shuttle. I measured the length of the original axle and the distance from the lock nut on the freewheel to the end of the axle on the drive side. Took the long axle to work and had the machine shop trim it. I next through trial and error removed spacers and mixed and matched spacers and nuts and used some 2 and 3 mm spacers I had. After a bit of tinkering and swapping of nuts and spacers I got the thing to fit the bike and shift perfect without having to adjust the RD. The last thing I had to do was dish the wheel. That was actually the hardest part of this particular job. If I can do this anyone can my advice is just do it it's a bicycle not the space shuttle. Or carry a wrench around with you to remove the wheel.
Good job!

The mix-n-match spacer/washer is a good way to go. The key is to get the 1st position cog as close the the DS dropout without the chain rubbing on it. This minimizes the amount of re-dishing.

Re-dishing is always a hope and prayer since you are working with spokes that were not spec'd for the new rim centering. So far I have been lucky to not run out of threads when re-dishing. Keeping the amount you have to move the rim over to a minimum is probably a big factor.

John
70sSanO is offline  
Likes For 70sSanO:
Old 10-01-20, 08:43 AM
  #18  
capnjonny 
Senior Member
 
capnjonny's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Saratoga calif.
Posts: 1,047

Bikes: Miyata 610(66cm), GT Vantara Hybrid (64cm), Nishiki International (64cm), Peugeot rat rod (62 cm), Trek 800 Burning Man helicopter bike, Bob Jackson frame (to be restored?) plus a never ending stream of neglected waifs from the Bike exchange.

Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 339 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 623 Times in 225 Posts
One thing to remember about a nutted rear axle is that while tightening the nuts, the drive side tends to slip forward . Make sure when tightening that when done the drive side is all the way back in the dropout and the wheel is centered in the frame. I find it is easiest to tighten the drive side first, then pull the wheel into the centered position and tighten the non drive side.
capnjonny is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.