first project bike, 126mm rear hub options?
#51
Senior Member
Thread Starter
UR screwed on using that hub. See the pdf and look at the area I mention. Where the FH engages the hub to transmit power.
I've already uploaded 1 of them.
(seems I might be having trouble loading the T-610 pdf)
Try this link-
https://si.shimano.com/#/en/EV/FH-T610
I've already uploaded 1 of them.
(seems I might be having trouble loading the T-610 pdf)
Try this link-
https://si.shimano.com/#/en/EV/FH-T610
Nope, not even a clue. However it seems that a cold set to 130mm might be the only logical plan. I'll have to read up on the procedure, and sneak it in when she's not looking. As long as I dont wreck the frame she'll never know.
#52
Senior Member
Thread Starter
So after some googling it appears that this hub really is dimensionally the same as other Shimano 130 hub's other than axle and spacer lengths, which I can easily change. The center to flange distances are coming up exactly the same for this shortened Deore hub as other 130 hub flange distances. So, new plan is still use this rear hub, shortened to 130, and stretch the frame to 130, and use 8 speed components. Thinking this should all work, with a cooperative frame.
#53
Really Old Senior Member
IF you're going to 8, 9 makes more sense IF you haven't purchased the shifters yet.
Shifters & cassette are only slightly more $.
You would need a new 9 speed chain.
Just a lot more gearing options available than 8 speed.
You are a bit more prone to chain stay interference issues if you go below a 13T smallest cog. Usually somewhat easily corrected by adding a bit of spacing to the DS, but that increases dish.
You might call your LBS and ask what it'd cost to cold set the frame to 135 AND align the DO's.
It might be money well spent?
Shifters & cassette are only slightly more $.
You would need a new 9 speed chain.
Just a lot more gearing options available than 8 speed.
You are a bit more prone to chain stay interference issues if you go below a 13T smallest cog. Usually somewhat easily corrected by adding a bit of spacing to the DS, but that increases dish.
You might call your LBS and ask what it'd cost to cold set the frame to 135 AND align the DO's.
It might be money well spent?
#54
Senior Member
Thread Starter
IF you're going to 8, 9 makes more sense IF you haven't purchased the shifters yet.
Shifters & cassette are only slightly more $.
You would need a new 9 speed chain.
Just a lot more gearing options available than 8 speed.
You are a bit more prone to chain stay interference issues if you go below a 13T smallest cog. Usually somewhat easily corrected by adding a bit of spacing to the DS, but that increases dish.
You might call your LBS and ask what it'd cost to cold set the frame to 135 AND align the DO's.
It might be money well spent?
Shifters & cassette are only slightly more $.
You would need a new 9 speed chain.
Just a lot more gearing options available than 8 speed.
You are a bit more prone to chain stay interference issues if you go below a 13T smallest cog. Usually somewhat easily corrected by adding a bit of spacing to the DS, but that increases dish.
You might call your LBS and ask what it'd cost to cold set the frame to 135 AND align the DO's.
It might be money well spent?
And thanks for all your input, I really appreciate it.
#55
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Well this frame is now a perfect 130mm. Used Sheldon's method, which really was super easy and simple to do. I checked the chainstay/frame alignment with the string and ruler method, and it's right on. I also found a youtube on how to make a set of super basic DO alignment tools from carriage bolts, and spent about $3 on them. The alignment is now very close (at least as close as these fake tools will show), and more than good enough. The frame is totally stripped down, and it's now time to remove 35 years of crud and gunk from it and get it ready to reassemble. The rims are not here yet, and will probable be the last holdup. So for all who said quit screwing around and spread the frame, you were all of course right. Thought about going to 135, but this will suffice for an 8 speed. Can't wait to get it done, thanks for the guidance folks.
#56
Senior Member
Sweet, glad to hear your project is going well.
I'd agree that spreading to 135 is probably not worthwhile in most cases.
I'd agree that spreading to 135 is probably not worthwhile in most cases.
#57
Senior Member
As Bill Kapaun says, don't do 8 speed unless you already have the parts. 9sp has so many more options, is newer, and better built. You can get any cassette you want in 9sp. The chains are better too as they were purpose built to work with the cassettes. That was the big change in road equipment, the ramps on the cassettes and the chains that glide on them. 9sp is where they perfected it, and then just started making it smaller for 10 then 11. While it may have trickled down to 8sp options are a lot more limited. 8 speed road bikes are rare as they went to 9 pretty quickly. And just stick with Shimano, all their levels of parts are pretty much interchangeable.
#58
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I hear you, though all the parts are here or on their way here, so it’s a little too late for now. However if she likes the bike enough I could do the 9 speed upgrades over the winter. I’m not sold on some of these components, I just need to get it rideable asap.