Specialized 80's MTB
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Specialized 80's MTB
I found this 86/87 or so Specialiazed MTB abandoned actually passed it over for a couple of weeks in the same spot on my rides. Decided it needed to be rescued. Did a quick fix up and got everything working to test ride it in about an hour turns out from wrenching it is nearly all original and in fairly good shape for it's age with fairly rare nicely working indexed or friction 3X6 18 speed 128 spaced Suntour components including the all metal thumbies that will work on nearly any bars including drops. Trying to decide what's actually worth and if I should scrap it for the nice stuff or build it up a bit as a rider since it's my size I know there is actually very little value in selling it as a bike maybe $150-175 so with another $50 in components and a bunch of work.
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What's not to love about this bike given that it's your size? I love old MTBs and I rescue them from time to time. This looks to be in very good shape and I love the 80s specialized color schemes. I own an '87 specialized rockhopper, an '87 stumpjumper comp, and a '91 team stumpjumper.
My vote is to overhaul it and ride it. You won't find a better commuter/grocery/lock up bike at this price,
Plus it will make a great gravel road bike for all those fire road in CO. You can add bar ends or get some of those interesting handlebars with more hand positions (like the VO crazy bar).
Or you can turn this into a drop bar gravel bike pretty easily which is what I did to my '87 specialized stumpjumper comp. One advantage that 80s MTBs have for drop bar conversion is that their top tubes typically aren't as long relative to the seat tube length as they would become in the 90s . My '87 comp has the perfect geometry for a drop bar conversion for me (20 inch seat tube, 22.5 top tube); my '91 team not so much (18 inch seat tube, 22.5 top tube).
My vote is to overhaul it and ride it. You won't find a better commuter/grocery/lock up bike at this price,
Plus it will make a great gravel road bike for all those fire road in CO. You can add bar ends or get some of those interesting handlebars with more hand positions (like the VO crazy bar).
Or you can turn this into a drop bar gravel bike pretty easily which is what I did to my '87 specialized stumpjumper comp. One advantage that 80s MTBs have for drop bar conversion is that their top tubes typically aren't as long relative to the seat tube length as they would become in the 90s . My '87 comp has the perfect geometry for a drop bar conversion for me (20 inch seat tube, 22.5 top tube); my '91 team not so much (18 inch seat tube, 22.5 top tube).
Last edited by bikemig; 12-30-18 at 06:28 AM.
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The serial number indicates it was manufactured during weeks 31-32 of 1988 by Giant of Taiwan. This is late enough that it could be a 1989 model but the the chainstay mounted brake indicates a 1988 model. While this brake option is less desirable then the 1989's rear cantilevers, the 1988 frame is preferable because it is full CrMo, even if it is only plain gauge. The 1989 downgraded the rear triangle to hi-tensile steel. Unfortunately, the derailleurs are 2nd year AccuShift, which have a poor reputation. You can also see where SBI cut costs on tertiary components, The pedals, bottom bracket, headset and seat post are entry level items. Given the condition, I'd say this is sub-$100 bicycle. I'd probably minimize further investment and use it as a commuter, as it already has the appropriate tyres.
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Pretty clean. My neighbor has one in red and that's all he's ridden since new.
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The serial number indicates it was manufactured during weeks 31-32 of 1988 by Giant of Taiwan. This is late enough that it could be a 1989 model but the the chainstay mounted brake indicates a 1988 model. While this brake option is less desirable then the 1989's rear cantilevers, the 1988 frame is preferable because it is full CrMo, even if it is only plain gauge. The 1989 downgraded the rear triangle to hi-tensile steel. Unfortunately, the derailleurs are 2nd year AccuShift, which have a poor reputation. You can also see where SBI cut costs on tertiary components, The pedals, bottom bracket, headset and seat post are entry level items. Given the condition, I'd say this is sub-$100 bicycle. I'd probably minimize further investment and use it as a commuter, as it already has the appropriate tyres.
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U-brakes themselves were not a bad idea. The bad idea was mounting them under the chainstays on ATBs. Besides being fouled by mud and snow, the position made set-up and adjustment an unpleasant chore. In freezing conditions, the downtube mounted cables often became totally encased in ice and inoperable. I competed on a GT with a U-brake mounted on the seat stays, which largely alleviated most of the drawbacks. It was overkill, as you didn't need all the power that a U-brake afforded, but it made sense on the GT. The triple triangle design placed rear cantilever brakes lower and further forward. Disengaging the cable by striking the cantilever arm with your heel was a real possibility that the U-brake eliminated.
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Depending on your market, the thumb shifters, triple crankset, long cage RD and stem are worth more than the entire bike. Middle of the line MTBs from the late 1980s get very little love. Seems like I am the only buyer in my local market.
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That is a big bike by mtb standards.
Keep it a a commuter.
I would be tempted to reconfigure the rear brake adjustment, lengthen the straddle wire, replace the brake pads/holders and extend them to get a functioning brake with the longer straddle wire. Those bottom brackets did not live long way back, I suspect it has a galled spindle. Time is not in its side.
Keep it a a commuter.
I would be tempted to reconfigure the rear brake adjustment, lengthen the straddle wire, replace the brake pads/holders and extend them to get a functioning brake with the longer straddle wire. Those bottom brackets did not live long way back, I suspect it has a galled spindle. Time is not in its side.
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I think you stuff some 700c wheels in there with big tires and use MAFAC center pulls mounted on the brake bridge and fork "Crown", that would make a killer commuter and gravel grinder.
BTW aside from the frame being a bit small the down under U brake was one of the main reasons I got rid of my '88 Grizzly. As much as I dislike Canti brakes I hate down under U brakes even more
'88 Grizzly, custom Campagnolo Zark rims laced to shipmano 7spd hubs
BTW aside from the frame being a bit small the down under U brake was one of the main reasons I got rid of my '88 Grizzly. As much as I dislike Canti brakes I hate down under U brakes even more
'88 Grizzly, custom Campagnolo Zark rims laced to shipmano 7spd hubs
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
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“One morning you wake up, the girl is gone, the bikes are gone, all that's left behind is a pair of old tires and a tube of tubular glue, all squeezed out"
Sugar "Kane" Kowalczyk
Last edited by Bianchigirll; 01-01-19 at 08:53 AM.
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Thanks for all the info checked all the bearings and components all very good didn't even really need service. Took it for a nice snow ride today took a little bit to get used to but performs great so I guess I will keep it and basically leave it stock as found may get around to finding a nicer seat and post but other than that it really doesn't need anything.
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I would have grabbed it as well. Just sold an '88 Rockhopper that I restored, all original. I love old Specialized, still have my '96 A1 aluminum Rockhopper.
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Lovely bike. IMO, you can't beat an old MTB as a beater bike. Glad to see that you kept it.
#16
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Value/desirability drops sharply after the rockhopper...there's a ton of rockhoppers out there, so the no need to downgrade further to the Hard Rock. Now looking at the bike itself. It's just as solid, same geometry, etc. I commuted on a hard rock for a while, and it was lighter than my friends couple-year-older Stumpy. Great bikes.
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I have to join the consensus of a mid $100 range and worth much more to you as a rider if you like it, the ladies versions are popular with old geezers like me for their kickstand & easy mount/dismount.
In our area, old mt. bikes have little value, even top end ones, in near new condition. A local woman asked my advice on selling her "expensive" Mt. Bike. It was the ladies step thru version of your HardRock, with only a 100 miles or so on it. She was shocked when I suggested $50, but was unable to sell it on CL even at $35. Ended up donating it. So ride it and enjoy it. Don
In our area, old mt. bikes have little value, even top end ones, in near new condition. A local woman asked my advice on selling her "expensive" Mt. Bike. It was the ladies step thru version of your HardRock, with only a 100 miles or so on it. She was shocked when I suggested $50, but was unable to sell it on CL even at $35. Ended up donating it. So ride it and enjoy it. Don
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Actually, after looking at the catalog I see they didn't come with a kickstand, but most I see have one as an "add on". Don
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I like old MTBs. Over the years I've picked up a pair of rockhoppers (an '87 and an early 90s), 1987 stumpjumper comp, a 1993 Trek 950, and a showroom pristine 1993 Bridgestone MB 1. They were all inexpensive but I paid as much for the B'stone MB 1 as I did for the 4 other bikes put together.
I'd love to find a Bianchi project bike one of these days which is an early 29er.
I'd love to find a Bianchi project bike one of these days which is an early 29er.
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