Cannondale Criterium with "Corrosion"
01-05-19, 04:16 PM
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Cannondale Criterium with "Corrosion"
I've been looking for a vintage Cannondale to build up if for no other reason than I like the way they look and have an older 600 groupset to use on it. I've found a rough looking frame, but I see that, among other things, there are bubbles and blistering under the paint. What should one make of this? I didn't realize you could have this kind of damage on an aluminum bike. Could I strip it and repaint? Price is $62.99 or best offer. A waste of money?
The link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/56-cm-Canno...KWP-:rk:2:pf:0
The link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/56-cm-Canno...KWP-:rk:2:pf:0
01-05-19, 04:55 PM
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Yes, see that a lot on boats. Sweat, salty sport drinks will eat it up.
01-05-19, 05:18 PM
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01-05-19, 05:59 PM
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The damage is cosmetic, although the bottle screws could be frozen.
If you repaint it, plan ahead for dealing with the top tube cable guides.
If you repaint it, plan ahead for dealing with the top tube cable guides.
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01-06-19, 08:28 AM
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I would pass, I've run into corrosion just thinking oh a little sweat spot. So I took a knife to the spot, flaked the paint off and the corrosive ate all the way through to the point of looking like a worm hole. The frame pictured looks a lot worse than the tiny spot that I'm chatting about.
I'll get that pulled and take a shot for you.
I'll get that pulled and take a shot for you.
01-06-19, 09:50 AM
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I would guess that maybe some road salt and perspiration got under the paint through a chip and bubbled up the paint from underneath. I would have zero hesitation about stripping the existing paint, and sanding, primering and repainting (or powdercoating) that frame. Cannondale frames are massively over-built, and a little bit of paint corrosion, IMO, would not affect the structural integrity.
However, I'm no expert on aluminum corrosion though, maybe someone here who is can correct me, I would welcome the knowledge.
However, I'm no expert on aluminum corrosion though, maybe someone here who is can correct me, I would welcome the knowledge.
01-06-19, 10:58 AM
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OP,
From the pics it is hard to tell how bad the corrosion really is, to my eyes at this point it is cosmetic and should clean up and be fine with a repaint...."but" at 100 for the frame and 50-75 for powder cote you might be in for 175 the frame only.
I see "dales" in my area for 200 to 300.. I think that you can find a complete in that price range depending on where you are located.
I would buy a complete bike, but that is just my opinion.
Good luck, Ben
From the pics it is hard to tell how bad the corrosion really is, to my eyes at this point it is cosmetic and should clean up and be fine with a repaint...."but" at 100 for the frame and 50-75 for powder cote you might be in for 175 the frame only.
I see "dales" in my area for 200 to 300.. I think that you can find a complete in that price range depending on where you are located.
I would buy a complete bike, but that is just my opinion.
Good luck, Ben
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Last edited by xiaoman1; 01-06-19 at 05:36 PM.
01-06-19, 11:09 AM
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With shipping it is closer to $90. Do have space and the skill to repaint? If you've never ridden a Cannondale before I would pass, whay put all that time and effort into repainting something you may not like? Let someone deal with it.
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01-06-19, 05:16 PM
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Gotta be a better example out there.
Patience.
Patience.
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01-12-19, 06:07 PM
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I think there is a reason the waterbottle bolts and bottom bracket are still installed. Roulette wheel spin equal. Feeling lucky today?
01-12-19, 07:59 PM
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I'm thinking high speed 4" grinder with a wire wheel, goggles, frame vise, ventilation, dust mask, etc. etc. etc. ...... Once you get all the crap off then, spray bomb it with a nice quality lacquer paint. Done deal.
01-12-19, 10:26 PM
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..the paint that is on there now will strip off pretty easily with a chemical stripper from Home Depot. The bush on stuff is cheaper for more of it, but the spray can bomb is usually enough to do one frame and fork for me. Cannondale paint was not always real durable, and I've seen a few that have been repainted, including the one I ride now.
Stripping and painting a frame is time consuming, especially if you have no previous experience. But it's doable for most of us in a home, outdoor environment with reasonably good results. and decent auto quality paint is not cheap, decals will set you back another 40 bucks. Where I am, Cannondale's in pretty good (way better than that one) cosmetic condition show up regularly on the local CL for somewhere in the $300 range (complete bike). So personally, I would not go to the time and effort to paint one right now. Interesting bikes that are a significant artifact of a particular era in US bicycling, though. there are just a lot of them still around in better cosmetic condition that are very affordable.
Stripping and painting a frame is time consuming, especially if you have no previous experience. But it's doable for most of us in a home, outdoor environment with reasonably good results. and decent auto quality paint is not cheap, decals will set you back another 40 bucks. Where I am, Cannondale's in pretty good (way better than that one) cosmetic condition show up regularly on the local CL for somewhere in the $300 range (complete bike). So personally, I would not go to the time and effort to paint one right now. Interesting bikes that are a significant artifact of a particular era in US bicycling, though. there are just a lot of them still around in better cosmetic condition that are very affordable.
01-13-19, 10:34 AM
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I have an SR900 with a frame in similar condition as this paint. I’m riding it and will wait until after the winter so I can take my time doing it outside over a few days.
I’ve never repainted over aluminum, but I have done steel frames and the results were good and durable after using citrus-based stripper (took awhile and some scraping though) and good primer, plenty of time and sanding and re-coating, and then a bunch of light, somewhat smooth passes with Rustoleum can paint. It wasn’t perfect, but it was a massive improvement in each case, and I was able to sell one I rehabbed too.
The key is the time letting each layer harden, from what i can tell. So im planning to do the same thing, but with a primer that mentions aluminum application.
I’ve never repainted over aluminum, but I have done steel frames and the results were good and durable after using citrus-based stripper (took awhile and some scraping though) and good primer, plenty of time and sanding and re-coating, and then a bunch of light, somewhat smooth passes with Rustoleum can paint. It wasn’t perfect, but it was a massive improvement in each case, and I was able to sell one I rehabbed too.
The key is the time letting each layer harden, from what i can tell. So im planning to do the same thing, but with a primer that mentions aluminum application.
Last edited by Charliekeet; 01-13-19 at 10:37 AM.
