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Holdsworth Allez Pedals

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Old 02-14-17, 07:16 PM
  #1  
Andiroo99
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Holdsworth Allez Pedals

Hi All

Anyone know where i might be able to lay my hands on a pair of Holdsworth Allez pedals from 1940s-50s.

Something same or similar to these: VeloBase.com - Component: Holdsworth Allez (type 1)

Thanks

Arb
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Old 02-14-17, 07:20 PM
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Good luck!

1. Hilary Stone (or his competition; he's not the only one in the field, but probably the best).
2. EBay.
3. Exceptionally good luck.
4. Time travel.

Originally Posted by Andiroo99
Hi All

Anyone know where i might be able to lay my hands on a pair of Holdsworth Allez pedals from 1940s-50s.

Something same or similar to these: VeloBase.com - Component: Holdsworth Allez (type 1)

Thanks

Arb
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Old 02-14-17, 07:24 PM
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I am hoping for #3 as I used up my previous time travel credits looking for other vintage steel items...

Originally Posted by rhm
Good luck!

1. Hilary Stone (or his competition; he's not the only one in the field, but probably the best).
2. EBay.
3. Exceptionally good luck.
4. Time travel.
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Old 02-14-17, 08:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Andiroo99
... I used up my previous time travel credits looking for other vintage steel items...
Pix or it didn't happen!

I have had good luck, So much that I fear I may have to figure out the time travel thing pretty soon.

That said, your search for Holdsworth Allez pedals is probably too specific. Pedals wear out, and these were bought by guys who rode a lot. If you want nice pedals of that period, search for Phillips Philite pedals and the like. Search for five different types, and you'll find one. And when searching on eBay, search for every possible misspelling. And... good luck!
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Old 02-14-17, 08:15 PM
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You are of course correct and likely wise. I will keep an open mind but I really want those Holdsworth pedals with the "A" on the pedal. They will finish off my current rebuild well and will add a little more personalization.

Thanks for the response.

A.



Originally Posted by rhm
Pix or it didn't happen!

I have had good luck, So much that I fear I may have to figure out the time travel thing pretty soon.

That said, your search for Holdsworth Allez pedals is probably too specific. Pedals wear out, and these were bought by guys who rode a lot. If you want nice pedals of that period, search for Phillips Philite pedals and the like. Search for five different types, and you'll find one. And when searching on eBay, search for every possible misspelling. And... good luck!
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Old 02-15-17, 05:03 AM
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these didn't sell recently, but they need a little work.
Holdsworth Allez pedals - Vintage - Very Rare | eBay
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Old 02-15-17, 06:19 AM
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55 quid for a pair of straps. No wonder they did not sell. Ridiculous.


Originally Posted by Big Block
these didn't sell recently, but they need a little work.
Holdsworth Allez pedals - Vintage - Very Rare | eBay
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Old 02-15-17, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Andiroo99
55 quid for a pair of straps. No wonder they did not sell. Ridiculous.

Open the linked page again and scroll down below the straps.
Brent
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Old 02-15-17, 03:37 PM
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Ahh I missed that. Now I see them. They look decent other than what seems to be a crack in the steel. Anyway, thanks for the tip.

Arb
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Old 02-15-17, 04:03 PM
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not steel
"This is undoubtebly the SUPER pedal - every point in the design has been the subject of careful thought and the manufacture is to very fine limits. The aluminium alloy barrel and frame are in one-piece pressure-diecastings, so there is no fear of the barrel working loose from the frame. End and side-plates (making up the frame) are stamped in one piece from heavy gauge duralumin which will give the longest possible wear. Dustcap and cone locknut are machined from solid duralumin bar...."

from Allez pedals

perhaps you could ask member realsteel if he things these are repairable. See this thread https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-vi...ord-pedal.html
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Old 11-14-23, 09:19 AM
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Hi guy's, I see this is an old thread, but here goes....

I recently managed to buy a pair of Holdsworth Allez! pedals, which I'd like to service.
No idea how to dismantle them; managed to remove the alloy nut at the end of the spindles, but then I'm stuck!
Below the nut is a retaining collar/cone with a slot each side of the spindle. Is a special tool to wind that off?

I'm here because I'm trying to be careful and not cause damage....so any advice would be welcome.

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Old 11-14-23, 09:30 AM
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You may need to craft a tool for your servicing.
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Old 11-14-23, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Mr. 66
You may need to craft a tool for your servicing.
Thank you Mr 66,
that doesn't surprise me.
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Old 11-14-23, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Cyclespanner
Thank you Mr 66,
that doesn't surprise me.
We also need good pics of any progress, all details, parts, pieces and impediments.
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Old 11-14-23, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by merziac
We also need good pics of any progress, all details, parts, pieces and impediments.
Hi 'merziac'.

Not sure what you expect to see, but yes I'll take photographs.

As you can see already, the pedals are complete and in clean condition.
For some reason one of the end caps has been drilled (for a grease nipple?). Why one and not the other?
Considering their 70 years of age they don't appear abused, bent and bashed.
Being entirely of alloy construction, lightweight and potentially fragile, it's remarkable how well they have survived.
The 'Quill' shafts turn freely, without any roughness.
A contemporary advert says the shafts are (clearly) steel, as are the cones, so the bearings have a proper working surface.
Removal of the end caps revealed fresh white grease, no doubt applied by the previous owner.
I was surprised to find the retaining lock-nuts are alloy, baring minimal signs of previous removal. (3/16'' spanner).

Not sure how far to go with the finish; when new they were obviously bright but not polished.

I was attracted to these pedals (on ebay) simply because of the capital 'A' motif (my first initial).
I was entirely ignorant of their age or history until I did a little research and realised they are a bit out of the ordinary and premium items when new.
So when my modest bid secured them I was delighted as several others online are asking considerably more money.

Here are more 'before' photo's....


Last edited by Cyclespanner; 11-14-23 at 04:38 PM.
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Old 11-14-23, 05:36 PM
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Well now I’m curious if OP Andiroo99 ever found a pair.
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Old 11-14-23, 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Cyclespanner
Hi 'merziac'.

Not sure what you expect to see, but yes I'll take photographs.

As you can see already, the pedals are complete and in clean condition.
For some reason one of the end caps has been drilled (for a grease nipple?). Why one and not the other?
Considering their 70 years of age they don't appear abused, bent and bashed.
Being entirely of alloy construction, lightweight and potentially fragile, it's remarkable how well they have survived.
The 'Quill' shafts turn freely, without any roughness.
A contemporary advert says the shafts are (clearly) steel, as are the cones, so the bearings have a proper working surface.
Removal of the end caps revealed fresh white grease, no doubt applied by the previous owner.
I was surprised to find the retaining lock-nuts are alloy, baring minimal signs of previous removal. (3/16'' spanner).

Not sure how far to go with the finish; when new they were obviously bright but not polished.

I was attracted to these pedals (on ebay) simply because of the capital 'A' motif (my first initial).
I was entirely ignorant of their age or history until I did a little research and realised they are a bit out of the ordinary and premium items when new.
So when my modest bid secured them I was delighted as several others online are asking considerably more money.

Here are more 'before' photo's....
So there are alloy locknuts under the dust caps?

Can you show us the cone with the cap and locknut removed?

Until this is solved I would be glad they seem to be lubed and adjusted well enough.

3/16ths ? , 5mm
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Old 11-15-23, 03:07 AM
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Originally Posted by merziac
So there are alloy locknuts under the dust caps?

Can you show us the cone with the cap and locknut removed?

Until this is solved I would be glad they seem to be lubed and adjusted well enough.

3/16ths ? , 5mm
Thanks for your interest, 'merziac'.

Yes, 3/16'' W, near as 5mm thread.

First I have to make a tool to remove the cones.
Life stealing time at the moment and it's 15f in the garage!
Watch this space.

Last edited by Cyclespanner; 11-15-23 at 03:11 AM. Reason: Adition
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Old 11-15-23, 03:10 PM
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Me again!

Made an embarrassingly crude but practical cone tool to strip the first of these pedals.
As you can see in my photo's, the various components are in remarkable condition for their age.
The cone races and bearings are good and serviceable.
I think the original grease was still in there, though turned to wax.
It's my opinion the seller tried and failed to get them apart and just gave up, simply adding the white grease because it seemed like a good idea.
Glad I've decided to play safe and service them; they do need a decent lube job.
Here's the photo's...


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Old 11-15-23, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Cyclespanner
Me again!

Made an embarrassingly crude but practical cone tool to strip the first of these pedals.
As you can see in my photo's, the various components are in remarkable condition for their age.
The cone races and bearings are good and serviceable.
I think the original grease was still in there, though turned to wax.
It's my opinion the seller tried and failed to get them apart and just gave up, simply adding the white grease because it seemed like a good idea.
Glad I've decided to play safe and service them; they do need a decent lube job.
Here's the photo's...

So 3/16's balls as per fairly standard.

Great work, glad you got there.

I would encourage you to use good old fashion automotive axle grease with new balls on these as they are in good shape but seem to have a little minor pitting and will benefit from robust grease longer term.

Many here may disagree but I have a lot of experience here in PDX with rain and plain cup and cone bearings, all good with my strategy of using it.

I have also saved some well compromised bearings with it and new balls looser adjustment then incrementally tightening them down with new grease after some time and miles at each interval of 1-2 months or so.
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Old 11-17-23, 04:20 PM
  #21  
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Small hole

If very old , the hole is for a squirt of emulsifier once a year to keep the old grease soft.
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Old 11-17-23, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Johno59
If very old , the hole is for a squirt of emulsifier once a year to keep the old grease soft.
Hi Johno59,

thanks for your interest.

Having examined the 'hole', it has a course thread which I now believe is a previous owners attempt to fit a grease nipple.
That may have been discovered to be impractical due to the outer guard preventing direct access with a grease gun.

Also the internal tolerances of the cones, being so fine, wouldn't allow grease to reach the outer bearing and no hope of reaching the inner one.

A 'good Idea' that owner must have realised was a wasted one; hence only one cap was treated in this way.

Back in the day it was common practice to oil, not grease cycle bearings.
The inner bearing has a felt washer on the outside of it, as a dust and water seal.
That to me would indicate oil was indeed the original lubricant.
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Old 11-17-23, 09:41 PM
  #23  
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Barry Scott has a pair of Allez pedals on eBay: 285098516799

I purchased another pair of these pedals from him for my 1946 Holdsworth Cyclone. They are very nice pedals! Worth the price IMHO.

Jim
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Old 11-18-23, 01:32 PM
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A long way from cap to insidebearing g

Grease applied via a cap nipple would have difficulty reaching the crank side bearing- where most of the load is. Some heavy grease and emulsifier from time to time keeps everything smooth. Oil everywhere flies out and dries out. The trick with these pedals is to get the tension correct on the lock nut on the cap end. This tensioning there bares on both bearings and can be tricky to get just right. Too loose and the grease oozes out , too tight and everything starts to grind and sieze up. There is a locking nut tool but hen's teeth are far more easier to get. If you make your own tool it will save you much frustration.
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Old 11-18-23, 02:43 PM
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What does a locking nut too look like?
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