bstrummer

The forks on my bike are just like that. The thing I'm not clear about is whether or not the high tensile steel (Carbolite) forks were originally meant to be chrome plated. Going by the catalogues I've seen, the Carbolite models all seem to have painted forks. Is that a fair assumption or were their exceptions?

bstrummer

There’s something new to learn with every reply on this forum. I wasn’t aware of the term pantograph in relation to bike frames. I would also not want the serial number and other numbers stamped into the frame to be diminished or disappear.

This is really helpful advice thanks! I definitely want to discuss these issues with the powdercoater and if they aren’t willing or able to offer solutions I’ll try someone else.

I think you are right about this. It does seem to be a plain frame design.

I don’t have the impression that the bike is going to be very valuable either way. However, just looking at the frame again today, it really doesn’t look that bad as it is. Close-up photos tend to make the rust look a lot worse. That said though the idea of a brand new finish appeals to me if I can get a reasonable colour match and all those other boxes ticked.

bstrummer

At the risk of starting a great avalanche of helpful advice, I'm posting photos of components thus far removed from the bike. I'm trying to gain a better understanding of costs involved getting my bike up and running. I'd be interested in knowing if components are serviceable or in need of replacement.

I'll start with the brake callipers which seem to be in quite good shape apart from a few bits of rusted chrome.

bstrummer

The Simplex front derailleur is not in such good shape. The most obvious problem is the plastic clamp has broken. Does this signify the need for a whole new component or can the clamp alone be replaced? No doubt the chrome could be rust treated and/or given the brass wool treatment.

bstrummer

The gear cassette looks ugly. Is this really as bad as it looks?

bstrummer

Here is the front wheel hub and rim section with nice bright red sticker...

bstrummer

The rear derailleur is in need of a good clean and grease but otherwise ok I think.

bertinjim 

bstrummer-

The front Simplex is dead. Once the plastic breaks, they are non-serviceable. Look for a Simplex SJ A102 in metal. They are robust and period correct for your Peugeot.

Kevindale

For what it's worth, it's a freewheel, not a cassette. I point that out to aid you if you need to find a replacement, so you're not searching for the wrong thing. It's hard to tell how bad your freewheel is until it's cleaned up. I'd be hesitant to dunk that into oxalic acid or some other rust remover, for fear of getting stuff into the pawls that wouldn't come out. Clean it up with a stiff, long-bristle brush and WD-40 (should remove old grease and superficial rust) and see what things look like then. I'd start with a stiff plastic brush, then if necessary use a brass brush if you need to be more aggressive.

For the rusty chrome, the most popular methods seem to be oxalic acid soak (I use Barkeeper's Friend), then buff with a chrome polish and wax (the rust will want to come back, and wax helps prevent it) or rubbing with damp aluminum foil, and polish and wax. Sometimes just a good chrome polish is enough.

On the powdercoat/paint debate, you might want to get ride of the rust, clean it up, get it lubed and working and ride it for a bit. If you love the bike, and hate the way it looks, then decide. You might realize you don't mind the looks. I've come to appreciate the faded and chipped paint on my Tommasini. It's too nice a bike to powder coat, and a paint job of the quality that would match the original paint and decals would easily be $500+, which I'm not willing to spend. Some folks here have had very good luck with powdercoating bikes that aren't too valuable, especially if the person doing the powdercoating understands the need to not lay it on too thick, and is good at masking everything off. It seems like I've read there's a problem with powdercoating over chrome, so check into that if you do decide to go that route.

Jon T

I do still have the Helicomatic tool. It is always in my seat tool bag, "Just in case...."
Jon

ryansu

That is a classic "feature" of the Derlin plastic body Simplex front derailleur - they crack. Yes You will need a new front derailleur. I would suggest measuring the downtube diameter where the FD will go, on older Peugeots they had french sizing so you would have to shim the later Japanese made FD's to fit, I speak from experience lol.

bstrummer

Thanks for pointing that out. I was really trying to refer to the gear/sprocket cluster which I'd thought was the cassette. I see there's plenty of information online about the difference between freewheel and cassette.

https://www.btwin.com/blog/blog-and-...d-a-freewheel/

OK I can definitely give the WD-40 and brush a try to begin with thanks.

I've been using Autosol metal polish but not heard of Barkeeper's Friend. It is readily available here and affordable, thanks. One of my Facebook contacts mentioned the wax too. Is that the type used for polishing cars or more of a raw beeswax for furniture? I recently made a pot of furniture polish using beeswax and olive oil so perhaps there is a new use for it.

That's good advice thanks. Actually I have been considering this option as after all the bike is more useful when it is rideable as opposed to looking pretty with the running gear broken. It's not too arduous dismantling a bike once you know what's involved but on the other hand it is tempting to have it painted when already stripped down.

Incidentally I have found a company that can powder coat the forks with the appearance of chrome for about $65 if I decide to go down that path.

Bicycle Addict

I have a crank pulling tool and socket that will work if you get stuck, I also have a spare rear wheel with Helicomatic hub if you need parts.

bstrummer

Perhaps an early form of built-in obsolesce?

I can see how easy it must be to make the wrong purchase!

Interestingly I've measured the seat-tube diameter where the derailleur clamp was positioned. I'm sure if I've measured this correctly (more than once) but it seems too large at about 95mm. Advice on the 'mytenspeeds' website is that English seat tubes have 'an outside diameter of 28.6mm while the French one measures out at 28mm.' I've also checked the head tube which is more like 104mm. Does that make any sense?

Jon T

Measure it in inch mode. Divide the inch measurement by .03937 to get the metric equivalent. Be it known that there are 25.4 mm to an inch. Each mm is .03937 inches. Your 95mm would equate to a seat post that's 3 3/4 inches in diameter. I think you're misreading something or your math needs checking.
Jon

bstrummer

Now I'm ashamed to say I was measuring circumference. Getting my wires crossed again. Apologies for that!
Fortunately I have a nice, accurate set of callipers that are giving a reading of 28.75mm. So slightly more than the English size of 28.6mm.

francophile 

I'd argue it's Helicomatic, so it's more of a cassette than a freewheel....

And on other topics, the front derailleur is made of Delrin plastic, since you already have Shimano 600 calipers, why not just go full 600 on the bike?

francophile 

PS on the topic of Helicomatic, you should really visit: The Helicomatic Museum

It'll tell you everything you need to know about that rear hub.

The Rigida rims are actually pretty damn solid, and a LOT of people have negative remarks about Helicomatic, but if you've used them as much as some of us French-loving folks have, you'll see just as much value in them as the early Shimano freehubs.

Although, there are less moving parts in the freehub. I have the tool to break open the helico FW. Rebuild is way easier than a standard FW. Biggest problem is bent axles if you're a heavy rider.

Kevindale

I guess that makes sense. I was just looking at Sheldon Brown's site, and at one point he refers to the 'cluster' that mounted on the Helicomatic hub. From now on I'll just call it a cluster. By the way, Sheldon didn't think much of this system.

bstrummer

I don't have a strong preference but like the idea of keeping things consistent does appeal. The crank set is Shimano Golden Arrow which I understand is a good thing.

francophile 

I appreciate Sheldon's opinion on many things cycling related. He was a font of knowledge, but he also had lots of opinions about thing which are unclear if it's based in reality, or a matter of opinion. We all suffer from that so I'm not judging...

But yeah, It's not really a cassette or freehub because the housing has pawls. It's closer to a freewheel, but not really a freewheel... or is it?

I dunno. But the convenience is nice. The design is probably flawed by the rear axle.

bstrummer

This reminds me I had meant to post photos of the sticker on the rear wheel rim. It's a different make. There's no sign of any codes stamped on the rim. Just the 'Module E2' on the label.

francophile 

It's made by Mavic, model E2. Also a very competent wheel and properties are very similar to the Rigida, although some would argue the Mavic is the better rim.

Seems like you have quite the frankenbike on your hands.

But still, a solid bike. Clean it up and ride the hell out of it. it won't do you wrong. The riding properties of the low/mid model Peugeots of the 80s were highly underrated. You've got a nice bike on your hands, even if it didn't win a TdF or GdI.

PS - VeloBase.com - Component: Mavic Module E2

Also, really weird, the way the tire is sitting over this rim it looks like it's tubular/glued, but ... pretty sure the E2 was clincher? Maybe I'm crazy.

PPS - the rust on those eyelets and corrosion on the brass nipples is a bit disconcerting

bstrummer

Thanks for this tip. It will help to know what I'm doing when pulling things apart.

Well I like the very fact that they are French made and unique. If servicing is not difficult then why not keep them? The sort of riding I'm likely to be doing won't demand much.

Is that the tool with the bottle opener or another one? The cone ring was quite loose so I was able to easily unscrew it with my fingers. I read somewhere else that broken spokes was one of the big issues with the Helicomatic.

francophile 

Yes. You can usually pick one up on eBay any given month for $10-$15. It's worth buying if for nothing else than to have in the shop. We all need to open beverages

A number of low/mid/high level bikes from several manufacturers shipped their bikes stock with Maillard hubs during the Helicomatic years. Trek was a big one, '84/'85 (ish) at least, several models came with Helicomatic rear stock. That one is fresh in my head as I'm getting rid of a 660 this week.