One V brake arm sticks out too far
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Yeah, I'm just kidding with you because I wrote the same thing.
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First, it looks like your rear wheel is improperly dished. But you didn't ask about that, so I'll set that aside for now.
Second, your entire brake adjustment is wonky. If I were working on your bike I'd start from scratch, and I'm not going to go into that here. But this here is how the pros at Park Tool would approach it. https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/...-brake-service I suggest you follow it to a T.
Second, your entire brake adjustment is wonky. If I were working on your bike I'd start from scratch, and I'm not going to go into that here. But this here is how the pros at Park Tool would approach it. https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/...-brake-service I suggest you follow it to a T.
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Ah okay you got me. I just started from the top again because the OP seems to be having difficulty approaching the problem methodically. Whatever is out of alignment you need to start from somewhere and move logically through the possibilities until you have a complete picture. It's pretty simple (put it in backwards) to check correct dish and hopefully eliminate that as part of the problem. The problem just got smaller. You know this already.
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LH side 27mm
RH side about 34mm
with the wheel flipped. about the same
27 vs 34mm
I am off now to show it to Malcolm at Biseagal, a good (if woefully slow) bike guy n Toronto
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OK, now we know the wheel is correctly dished, and the dropouts need to move approximately 3.5 mm to the drive side, or at least they need to move so the rim moves 3.5 mm. That's not a lot, but it's a start. Next it might be good to check head tube to seat tube to rear axle alignment on both sides - hopefully this also shows only the 3.5 mm error. You can do it by stretching a length of string if you don't have a suitable straight edge. While you're doing this you can also eyeball the head tube to seat tube parallel alignment, or check with an inclinometer or level if you have one.
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OK, now we know the wheel is correctly dished, and the dropouts need to move approximately 3.5 mm to the drive side, or at least they need to move so the rim moves 3.5 mm. That's not a lot, but it's a start. Next it might be good to check head tube to seat tube to rear axle alignment on both sides - hopefully this also shows only the 3.5 mm error. You can do it by stretching a length of string if you don't have a suitable straight edge. While you're doing this you can also eyeball the head tube to seat tube parallel alignment, or check with an inclinometer or level if you have one.
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I don't think we can make this assumption yet. The frame can be straight, the chain and seat stays being the same length and centered laterally WRT the front triangle, but for some reason the wheel isn't seated in the dropouts the same amount on both sides. If the axle's center can't be located WRT the dropout slot's top the same on both sides the wheel will sit cockeyed. Andy
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Understood. I just get nervous when frame mods are mentioned with less than full information. Andy
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well. it seems to be a frame alignment problem.
Malcom has the needed tools (see attached)
the drop out alignment too photo is the After Photo. it was woefully off level and not parallels initially.
the other tool shows how off the rear triangle is.
I am not sure if this was a factory flaw or something that developed in course of this frames 20 year life.
to note it has always had a wheel installed in the rear triangle
Malcom has the needed tools (see attached)
the drop out alignment too photo is the After Photo. it was woefully off level and not parallels initially.
the other tool shows how off the rear triangle is.
I am not sure if this was a factory flaw or something that developed in course of this frames 20 year life.
to note it has always had a wheel installed in the rear triangle
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I'm glad you're finally getting to a solution!
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Great to see progress on the problems. Did Malcom also fix the "T" tool misalignment aspect? Was there a front triangle to dropouts centering issue also? Bike Fridays do have fairly small diameter stays and a lot of odd brackets incorporating the hinges. No big surprise if it was learned that there had been an "incident" during travel, when the bike was folded and thus less able to resist the forces. I hope this fixes the problems. Andy
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well. it seems to be a frame alignment problem.
Malcom has the needed tools (see attached)
the drop out alignment too photo is the After Photo. it was woefully off level and not parallels initially.
the other tool shows how off the rear triangle is.
I am not sure if this was a factory flaw or something that developed in course of this frames 20 year life.
to note it has always had a wheel installed in the rear triangle
Malcom has the needed tools (see attached)
the drop out alignment too photo is the After Photo. it was woefully off level and not parallels initially.
the other tool shows how off the rear triangle is.
I am not sure if this was a factory flaw or something that developed in course of this frames 20 year life.
to note it has always had a wheel installed in the rear triangle