Lwmeyer

I have an old Terratrike Rover and I need to adjust the inner brake pad away from the rotor because it is rubbing slightly. How do I do this?

BlazingPedals

You probably have BB5s on your trike, since those seem to be the lowest-level brand name ones around. BB5 are pretty fiddly to set up since they lack an adjustment for the inner pad. I think you're stuck with shims to adjust the inner pads. Are you sure this isn't a problem with truing the rotor? Most mechanical disc brakes work by moving the outer pad and deflecting (bending) the rotor into the inner pad. This leads to warped rotors.

Lwmeyer

Thanks, you're probably correct. I may have to take it to a bike shop.

BlazingPedals

Rotors warp all the time, at least with single-sided calipers. It wouldn't be an issue except for the small clearances to the pads. If you don't learn to fix them yourself, you'll be in the shop every week.

VegasTriker

Terratrike gave me an easy way to adjust disc brakes on a trike (mine had Shimano discs) by using a credit card for a spacer. There are two fixing bolts that align the pad with the rotor. Loosen the two bolts, insert the card between the rotor and pad. Gently squeeze the brake handle and tighten the two bolts while still putting pressure on the brake handle. Take out the card and you have the perfect distance plus the brake disc and pad are parallel to each other. If the rotor is warped you will still have a problem as the only way to fix that is to replace the rotor.

BlazingPedals

You can fix the minor warpage that happens continually during normal use by pushing on the rotor with your thumb. Typically, it's just one spot on the rotor that will start rubbing the inside pad. The rotor is springy, so you have to push a bit and then test -- multiple times. There are also tools; but I think thumbs work well enough. I use Spyres, which move both pads; and I don't worry about that anymore.

Iride01 

Is it actually rubbing or is it just that there is no visible gap? No visible gap is not really a issue.

linberl

I have BB5s and tried a number of the recommended methods. I finally found what works for me with zero noise and a long time between adjustments. Ymmv. I use the credit card method except before I tighten the caliper bolts I visually align the rotor to the non adjustable side, rotate the wheel (it's on a stand) to find any rotor bend, and use that spot to determine where to clamp. Getting the non adjustable side as close as possible to the rotor without touching and as parallel as possible has eliminated all noise and minimized later adjustments. I use to hate them and thought about upgrading to BB7s but now they are just not a problem.