phtomita

With PNW in deep snow, I got started with my projects way ahead of planned.

I am working on my Centurion ProTour 15 rebuild with Shimano 105 5800 group set - that will come out from my Nishiki Tri-A.
So far, got the ProTour frame cleaned up, mostly inside frame (there are lots of paint tips, but since there is shiny chrome under it, it will go as is).
This will be my commuter too, so taking the 32 spokes out of Tri-A and have Conti GP4SII 28c for rear and 25c for front.
Will keep only the cantilever brakes from original ProTour.

jamesdak 

So what's the plan for the Tri A? Isn't that Tange 1 tubing on it?

phtomita

I got some lighter wheels - Bitex hubs thread - and will transplant my Ultegra 6700 group set from the Sekai GT2700.
It will became gray color for the components.
I have a 31.8 mm quill stem to go with it - let's see how it will come out .

markwesti

I like the crown on this fork , kind of Cinelli like .

phtomita

It is an old Tange headset with thin tape with name on it as in Shimano 600 headset - will take a pic of the headset when have a chance.
It has a plastic cover under it there the fork starts.
Not sure if it is the original headset or not, but was in great condition when I did the clean up.

phtomita

There are two holes - one at the bottom bracket and another close to the head tube.
Per https://www.sheldonbrown.com/centuri...0pro-tour.html, it should be the internal wiring for the generator.
Since the frame had some solid stuff/rust inside chain stay and down tube towards the bottom bracket, is it likely dust + humidity/water built up coming from the holes?

rgvg

Say I'm a little bit curious are those 700c wheels you're putting on the Pro Tour? Did you get the Pro Tour with 700c or did it have 27s? Wouldn't there be some issues with the cantilevers going from 27 to 700c?

phtomita

Just took the handlebar out from the Nishiki and moved to the Pro Tour.
The Nitto Technomic - 225mm - looks really long without the seat.
I noticed the 1" head tube size is not the same all the way down. Around the down tube, it gets narrower.
Planning on 'connecting' the rear brake cable housing (so I won't need to re-tape ... ) using one end cap without the end part and some electric tape.
The Tri-A has internal wiring for the rear brake, that's why the housing is very short.

phtomita

Not the nicest pic. It came as below when I got the bike and it was a 700c with below cantis.
I finished to set up the front one and brakes good and able to align nicely.

rgvg

Thanks. I look forward to seeing your completed project. I have an '83 with 27" on it right now and I have thought about switching to 700c for slightly wider tires but one reason I've held off was I wasn't sure if the brakes would work. The wheels are fine right now so it doesn't really need to be changed but options are always nice.

phtomita

Here is the complete bike - will add another water bottle cage, bell, mirror and bike computer.
Juggling on scale, it is around 24.5 to 25 lbs.
I did a quick ride around the block and very happy with the shifting and braking.

Drive train is all silver Shimano 105 5800, 50/34T 165 mm front and 11-32 back. Shimano A530 pedals.
Wheels are from Velomine, H+Son Archetype with 105 5800 hubs.
Handlebar is Soma Hwy One 38 cm with Nitto Technomic 100 mm, 225 long quill stem.
SKS Chromoplastic fenders and MTN Rack rear rack.

phtomita

Brake pad of front wheel - I was able to adjust nicely - the cable end will be put once I have couple miles on it.

phtomita

Found some plastic 'pin with head' that fits quite well on the bottom bracket and downtube holes for the generator internal cabling.
And the 'hack' to extend the length of the rear break housing (yes, it is black electrical tape).

phtomita

Anyone has a suggestion for a homemade mud flap for the front fender?
I made one out of a gallon milk jug and kind of works great. Anyone tried with some other 'house garbage' that works great?

phtomita

First ride after snowmageddon around here. There is a place - about 25 feet long - covered in ice/snow on the mup. Otherwise nice and clean for riding

phtomita

Serial number for record

phtomita

This gets 236 grams lighter than the Centurion ProTour 15 for same/similar frame size.

Tautatis

In Africa (East Africa in particular), there is a great business of making very interesting/decorative artistic mudflaps using car tire inner tubes. In fact, they are so beautiful that last year the Smithsonian Museum of African Art in its exhibit about East Africa had a large section devoted to mudflaps!

ryansu

@rgvg just as an FYI I used a pair of Swift Sand Canyon 27 X 1 3/8 tires (think Panaracer Pasela's) and have been very pleased with them on the stock 27 inch wheels on my 87 Nishiki Cresta GT. Of course if you want to go more that about 35mm wide then converting to 700c is the way to go.

Sir_Name 

Very nice, I had a Pro Tour 15 of the same year-ish that got me back into road riding. Enjoy!

phtomita

Getting more drier days here in PNZ. Time to get ready the Tri-A.
I cleaned up the headset, put the cranks and wheels together so far.
My original plan was to have a 28c on rear, but that won't work since the tire was rubbing the frame on seat stay (cross bar where you attach the caliper).
Moved back to the 25c I had before on the Tri-A and the 28c went to the front wheel of ProTour 15.
The gray anodized H+Son Archetype is much more darker than the Ultegra and Bitex hubs. I liked it anyway
Hoping I can get something near 20lbs for the complete bike.

The Golden Boy 

Like Ryan said- the Sand Canyon 27" tires are pretty nice and they're a little bigger than the Pasela 1 1/4" tires.

You *might* run into problems with the canti post spacing in the front- post spacing was always a little more narrow in the 80s... but on some of the early tourers, the spacing is REALLY tight- my Voyageur SP has 50mm between the posts- I have to deflate a 1 1/4" tire to remove the wheel- even if I disengage the straddle cable from the brakes.

Arbutus

Arbutus

phtomita

Not 100% sure if because of the dynamo holes, I found lots of tiny debris inside the chain stay and down tube close to the bottom bracket + rust. Did use some scotch brite attached to a drill to remove the rust as best as I could and gave the frame a nice bath in the tub.
(then spend some 30 min to clean the oil from the tub ). Applied Boeshield T-9 inside and looks nice and clean now and got the little plastic lid for the holes.
I got the bike already on 700c, so all I did is to put on the new wheels and adjust the cantis. Rubber is a bit dry but brakes ok. Soon will have new pads.
The cranks I already passed forward since don't have plan on keeping all original/close to specs, and I prefer 165 mm (it was a 170 mm one).

Yes, the braze on is different from the both side ones on the Nishiki. I was looking for a cable stop for that, but I went with the one that came with the bike that works great.
I got an Origin8 one previously that looks nice, but that doesn't hold the housing straight and it seems a source for trouble on long use.