nathand

EDIT: found the relevant Park Tool article, I think I'm good.

How do I remove the bottom bracket pictured here, from a 1992 Trek Multitrack 790? What tool do I need?

Drive side

Non drive side

dedhed

Lock ring spanner, pin spanner, and fixed cup tool

robobike316 

This is just the standard BB setup as it was for decades. You can probably get the adjustable cup (non-drive) side out with a hammer and punch. Adjustment after reassembly will be frustrating with a punch, but possible.Normal,lefty-loosy threads on that side. The fixed cup (drive side) will be difficult without the proper tool. Possibly a big metal vice will get it done. Remember this side is reverse threaded. Often the fixed cup is just left in the bike when overhauling a BB. Clean it up and shine a flashlight in to inspect the cup. You will almost certainly fail with a large adjustable wrench on the fixed cup. The temptation will be great to use the big Crescent wrench, don't give in!

I like spindle and cup BBs but the parts are getting harder to find. A lot of folks replace them with cartridge types which will require another specific tool to to install. No home mechanic hack for that- you'll need the tool.

If you expect to do a fair amount of vintage bike repair then buying the tools would be good. Someone will probably post some pictures of the various versions of the appropriate tools.

Bill Kapaun

PARK HCW-4
Make do DS retainer.

RCMoeur 

I use something similar with two really big washers and a 5/16 x 4" through bolt. Took off a fixed cup with the setup just yesterday morning.

Bill Kapaun

Is it reusable afterwards?

Rick_D

These. Work on a million bikes and worth owning if you do this at all often. Top of the big wrench is for the lock ring, bottom is for the fixed cup, pin wrench for the adjustable cup.

Pin wrench is Park, big wrench generic.
ETA If you can inspect the fixed cup with a light and find it is in good shape, it's possible to clean and grease it w/o bothering to remove it. They can be stubborn!

RCMoeur 

Why wouldn't it be? I've used it countless times.

Bill Kapaun

I misunderstood what you meant

wheelreason

I'm gonna watch a Thor movie tonight...

nathand

Is it worth trying to save this bottom bracket? It doesn't spin well as is. I'm planning to take it to the local bike co-op which should have the right tools to remove it. I haven't figured out yet how I want to build up this frame, but I was thinking I'd replace the bottom bracket with a modern external-bearing one to match my other bikes, since I already have a spare bottom bracket and 2-piece crank, and ready access to the tools to install them.

cyccommute 

Since you have to the parts, why not? Everything will fit properly and you’ll have a bottom bracket that is easier to install and maintain.

As to the removal of the old bottom bracket, I have a different approach from the others suggested.

I’ve come to the conclusion that we have been taught to remove fixed cups wrong for a long time. I, like most everyone, have been taught to remove the adjustable cup first, followed by the fixed cup. We avoid removing the fixed cup because it can be difficult to remove. I realized that I needed to stand the procedure on its head. Remove the fixed cup first since it is the hardest one and the wrench needs the most stabilization. The spindle can be used to hold the tool but it will allow the wrench to turn with the cup so that the tool doesn’t even need to be removed to completely remove the fixed cup.

Since there are 2 types of spindle, the procedure and fastener used will depend on which spindle is present. The nut or bolt used on the spindle can be used to hold everything in place.

Tool Assembly
The parts for the nutted spindle needed are shown here. Most everything can be found in just about any shop. The large fender washer is probably the only thing you’ll have to go to a hardware store for.

A large fender washer, an adjustable cup, and the spindle nut are needed. Another washer may be needed to get the spacing right. The order of assembly follows







From above it should look like this

Turn the wrench as usual. If more leverage is needed, a cheater bar is needed.

For bolted spindles, the order of assembly is the same except a bolt is needed.



This method is much easier to use than other methods I’ve used. The spindle stabilizes the wrench and turns with it much like a cartridge bearing does. It makes it easier to remove the fixed cup and results in less blood spilled.

JohnDThompson 

Park Tool has an article on servicing that type of bottom bracket:
https://www.parktool.com/en-int/blog...ation-threaded

Keep in mind that unless the fixed cup (drive side) is unusable, or if you're replacing the entire bottom bracket for some reason (e.g. installing a cartridge instead), it's not necessary to remove the fixed cup to properly service the bottom bracket. Remove the non-drive side lockring and cup, and the axle and balls, clean the fixed cup in place using a solvent-soaked toothbrush and rag, and repack with fresh balls and grease.

N.B. there are professional-quality tools for removing a fixed cup if it is really necessary, but usually the DIY method above will work.

randyjawa 

To remove a bottom bracket, no special tools are necessary but they are a great help to have.

That bottom bracket non-drive side lock nut can be tapped of with a hammer and a piece of soft metal or even hardwood. The cup can be pulled with a pair of needle none plyers stuck into two opposing holes at once and then twist counter clockwise. No special tools needed. Next...

Pull the bottom bracket spindle and bearings, Install the non-drive side cup three quarters of the threaded area into the bottom bracket. Insert a big bolt (mine is 5/8" and coarse threaded). Use a big washer on the drive side end. Then, using a big adjustable wrench (I use a 15" adjustable or even a 12" one, as shown below, will often do the trick). Be wary - this part of a bottom bracket can be right or left hand thread. Snug the 5/8 nut up finger snug, not tight. Crack the cup loose and, before trying to fully unscrew, remove the washer and big bolt. Never failed with this procedure (well, almost never)...




And that is how I do it until I can afford those fancy bike tools.

cyccommute 

Honestly I thought the same thing until I developed my method of removing the fixed cup with the spindle. The reason that we don’t remove the cup is because it is difficult without that spindle there. But if you treat it like a cartridge bearing bottom bracket, it’s really fairly simple to remove the fixed cup and it’s easier to pack it if you reuse it.

nathand

I was able to get it apart without clamping the wrench. I removed the non-drive side but the drive side was pretty well stuck. I added a few drops of chain lube around the fixed cup from the inside of the bottom bracket, let it work its way in overnight, and the next day the fixed cup came unscrewed without much trouble. However, the cone of the spindle on the drive side looks like this:


so I'll be replacing the bottom bracket, as it looks like the cost of a spindle is about the same as a new cartridge bottom bracket. Or I'll use the newer Hollowtech bottom bracket I have sitting around depending on which cranks I decide to install.

dedhed

Cartridge is the way to go if you decide to stay square taper.