Lorig20

My husband and I decided last fall to get back into biking this spring and summer. We live in the country (on a gravel road) and are close to several wonderful bike trails in Iowa. We think it would be great fun to ride those trails and right now that is our only goal. We have decided to get ourselves entry level bikes in the $600-$800 range.

But.. I still have the bike my parents got me for my high school graduation. A 1977 Schwinn Traveler. Before I buy myself a new bike, I would like to try getting my old bike in good riding condition and riding it for the first summer. We were leaning toward getting more comfort style bikes and my bike is the traditional road bike. I think after a summer of riding my old bike, I might know more of what I'm looking for in a bike and could go from there. Plus I'd have my old friend in good condition for old times sake.

I used to tinker with my bikes a little growing up. But know very little about bike maintenance and repair. The bike is in pretty good shape, but I don't think the gears will shift and if I remember right, one of the brakes was sticking the last time I rode it (years ago!) My kids have ridden it recently and informed me you can't change gears on it. Otherwise it looks great.

My plan is to clean it up, loosen things up and see what I can do myself. Then I plan on taking it in and having it tuned up. Would you believe after 37 years the bike shop I bought it at is still in business? No longer a Schwinn dealer, but still there. But I thought I'd see what I can do myself before taking it in. But I have no idea where to start. Since it's a 1977 model derailleur, I'm not sure if the current repair books would apply to mine? Is there a good book or tutorial that might help me out?

When I get into actually doing it (I'm just researching currently) I can post pics. Right now, we're in the middle of a bad cold snap, the bike is in the machine shed, with tons of snow between the house and shed. I'm researching now and hoping to bring it into the basement of the house the end of the week since the temps are supposed to be rising finally. But this gives me a chance to research and figure out what I need to get to start working on it.

I've done some googling and there seems to be a ton of info out there, which totally overwhelms me, I just need to know where to start.
Thanks!!
Lori

Null66

Pict's please.

I loved my Traveler.


Others here know far more
But I'd:
Replace Cables and lube everything. Some things might need to be disassembled, cleaned, lubed, and reassembled.

Hopslam

Park tool website has good (free) instructions for wrenching

Happy wrenching

chrismorg

not to offend schwinn lovers BUT any 200.00 + target/sears bike will out perform and give you a much better overall ride experience then a old and cumbersome one size fits all 70s schwinn traveler they made 2 models boys and girls

Lorig20

I will certainly post pics. We've been researching bikes for quite a bit this winter, but I came up with the idea of restoring my old bike this weekend, so I'm just starting my research. I went out and looked it over yesterday, but it's 6 below zero, with drifts of snow between the house and the shed. So research will have to do for the moment.

dsbrantjr

The 1977-era grease in the wheel and headset bearings and bottom bracket is probably dried out and should be replaced. The brake shoes are probably hard and dry and will likely need to be replaced as well. If the tires hold air go ahead and use them even if there is some checking of the rubber; if you need new choose carefully as Schwinn used some oddball tire sizes over the years.

Park Tool (mentioned already) and Sheldon Brown's site as well as this forum are good resources for DIY guidance. If you ask for advice here try to include well-lit and clear photos and a thorough and accurate description of the problem; remember you are asking strangers for free advice and you should make it as easy as possible for them to help you.

Lorig20

I hope to get hooked on biking enough to want a nicer bike in a year or two. Maybe even later this summer, I don't know. I know this isn't a performance bike. But it has sentimental attachment to me. If I buy a new one now, I wouldn't get a road bike. I would want something geared for comfort. I always had wished I'd bought a traditional cruiser bike back then, as I wasn't very comfortable with the drop down handlebars. But that style was popular at the time and I went with the trend.

I figure if I start out with this bike, I can decide- do I want my next bike to be a comfort bike? Or will I decide a road bike is better for me. If I buy now, it's a comfort bike, and I may soon regret that decision.

I figure it'll be nice having my old bike in riding condition no matter what path I take

Metacortex

You can see the original catalog page for your bike here. For a book I would highly recommend Glenn's Complete Bicycle Manual, it is very inexpensive used and covers in detail all of the components on bikes of similar vintage to yours.

Lorig20

Thanks! I found the catalog over the weekend. I remember that catalog so well, I had the thing about wore out when I was shopping for a bike back then, and then wanting all the accessories.

I also remember Glenn's Complete Bicycle Manual. I didn't own it, but I borrowed it from the library many times back then.

Now I shall own it!

Thanks

chrismorg

35 year old road bike that has been in a shed probably 20 years after
new tires
new cables
new brake pads
having headset bottom bracket and hubs serviced all and all 150/200 to bring it to riding condition
you still live on a gravel road on a bike that was one size fits all (doubt its your size)
try riding a friends bike or even test ride a few bikes at a bike shop

Lorig20

Yep, $200 was what I was thinking I'd want to put into it. Then maybe more upgrades later if I actually use it. And you see, if I get a new bike now, it has to be a cheaper entry level bike. Especially since we would be buying two. If I start riding my old bike, and keep at it, my husband will be more open to me wanting something a little better later, that we consider out of our budget right now. He's still miffed at the $500 set of golf clubs I bought and used once. I have to prove myself before we spend too much money on a bike right now. I would say that since I've always had an interest in biking, I should be successful at it, but I was a medalist golfer in high school AND when I did go golfing with my husband, I shot a good round. I just didn't ever want to go back out again. I can't be sure that won't happen this time. And I will still seriously look at bikes while shopping for hubby's. No matter what, I want to putter with my old bike.

Lorig20

you still live on a gravel road on a bike that was one size fits all (doubt its your size)
try riding a friends bike or even test ride a few bikes at a bike shop[/QUOTE]

Oh, and yes, I admit I suspect the bike might be too big for me. I'm not sure the frame size, but from the catalog I see that the smallest size frame is the largest size of the Trek woman's bike I'm looking at. So I do have that nagging at the back of my mind.

I am keeping an open mind, but like I said, still want to putter with it.

chrismorg

Oh, and yes, I admit I suspect the bike might be too big for me. I'm not sure the frame size, but from the catalog I see that the smallest size frame is the largest size of the Trek woman's bike I'm looking at. So I do have that nagging at the back of my mind.

I am keeping an open mind, but like I said, still want to putter with it.[/QUOTE]

craigslist would be a great place to find a deal on others new years resolution failures
but first you should go to a bike shop and at least find out what size bike fits you (hybrid bikes are great on trails)

TallRider

@chrismorg undersells the late-1970s Schwinns. Bikes of that era were produced in a wide range of sizes (more range than today), and in my experience, today's $200 dept store bikes are usually worse quality.

That said (and here I agree with chrismorg), you could likely get a used hybrid for $200 that is better than the Traveler could become with its current parts. So if this is just about money, it might not be worth it. However, the bike has sentimental value for you. Added bonus for overhauling if you're going to do some of the work yourself (and would enjoy learning).
And the 27" x 1 1/4" tires are wide enough to handle fine on dirt roads. I've done a lot of dirt-road riding on such bikes.

Here is my 1980 Schwinn Traveler. Very likely the same frame (produced in Japan by Panasonic). My 1978 Schwinn Le Tour III also had the same frame. I built up the Traveler up with somewhat modernized parts.

As others have noted:

• clean bearings, new grease
• replace tires - sidewalls have probably dry-rotted. 27" x 1 1/4" tires are cheap, and the ~32mm width functions well on most dirt roads.
• new brake pads, especially if you replace the original steel rims with aluminum (see my comments below on that)
• I don't think you necessarily need to replace the cables, but I would take the cables out of the housing and clean them at least. (I do this for most old bikes and it works fine the vast majority of the time, unless there's a large buildup of rust on the cable). But if a shop is doing this, they'll probably want to just install new cables.

The two biggest upgrade you'll likely want to make is to put aluminum rims on the bike, especially the front rim. Your bike probably has steel rims, which are heavier but more importantly offer much worse braking performance. This is particularly important for the front wheel (which is most of your braking power). However, your 1977 Schwinn has 96mm spacing between the fork tips, and it could be tricky to find a 96mm-spaced front wheel. Although you could use the axle and spacers from your current front wheel on a 100mm-spaced 27" front wheel. If your Traveler happens to have aluminum rims, never mind.

Longer-term, if you like the Traveler, you could install modern brake levers, which are more comfortable for hand placement atop the lever.

steve0257

Still riding my 74 Traveler. I've recently converted it to a three speed cruiser style using the old SA hub I had. The work done was for sentimental value,, but the only things left from the original are the frame, front fork, and headset. But the frame fits, and it's fun to ride around town.

cny-bikeman

I would not put any major parts into it - especially wheels or rims. Just have it checked over for needed adjustments, overhaul only as necessary and see if you really like riding. If so take some time to explore options and save your money for a newer bike. If you are going to go over about 10mph you do need to do something about the extension (suicide) brake levers, as they are only good for slowing down, not any kind of quick stop.

JBC353

I think you have a good plan and a good bike. Certainly it will need a thorough cleaning and lubing but that's easy enough. If the bike fit you well enough when you bought it I doubt it is now too big for you. For your stated purposes I think it will serve well. Don't worry about the steel wheels, they will do just fine with new pads. Unless you ride in the rain it is just not a problem.

If you find the drop bars uncomfortable it is cheap and easy to replace them with something more comfortable. I never was very comfortable with drop bars even in my youth and now I would not ride at all if they were my only option. I have replaced them with Northroad bars on two of my old Schwinns and now enjoy riding a whole lot more. The brake levers also need to replaced with tourist style levers but that is also cheap and easy. There are many for sale on on eBay.

Finally, I suggest you post in the Classic & Vintage forum where you will find many knowledgeable old Schwinn fans.

Jeff Wills

Oh, some of us hang out here, too!

A '77 Traveler was one of a couple bikes that Schwinn had made by National in Japan. You've got a really good frame with decent components on it. As others said, replace the parts that age (tires, tubes, brake shoes), grease everything that moves (hubs, chain, cables) and give it a good cleaning. I bet it'll be good for another 30 years.

Grand Bois

You seriously believe that?

rydabent

chrismorg

I wouldnt slam that Schwinn from the 70s that much. The frame is a good braze frame with lugs. Im sure it is much lighter than the cheap bikes are today.

Yes-----------do a complete maintence job, probably for sure get new tires, and maybe swap out the chain. There is no reason at all that it wouldnt be a good bike to ride the limestone trails.

Lorig20

I think I've decided to take a little of both worlds. I'm leaning towards getting a new bike, but continue working on my old one. One of the bike groups in town is having a 4 week course on maintaing and repairing a bike, I contacted the instructor and he said that it would definetely help me get my Schwinn back up to road ready condition. The class is in April.

I could see fiddling with that bike most of spring and maybe still not getting to where I can ride it. If the gears would shift, I would be a little more optimistic. But I'm not sure what it's going to take to get it running. I think what made me change my mind, I went into the original bike shop the bike came from yesterday. All the bike shops are having sales now, so I thought I'd just go in and see what accessories are on sale. I picked up a nice helmet, and when checking out mentioned my bike to the owner. (same famiy as when I bought it in 77) I know he wants to sell a new bike, but it was the " well, today's technology is so much better...blah blah" that broke the camel's back. Plus seeing nice new pretty bikes, makes me want one!

I'll take this to another thread, but I think what I'm interested in is a Liv/Giant Escape 1W or the Avail 5. I thought I didn't want drop handle bars, but I'm being open minded. The Escape looks comfortable and might be better if I ride on some gravel (Not sure how much gravel riding I'll do, though I might ride to the trail since it's just a little over a mile away.) For years I thought a more upright position was what I really wanted, but now I can't decide. It does make sense that the drop handle bars have more options for different positions for your hands.

When I bought my bike in the 70's I did so much research. I studied biking books on what to look for in a bike and found one in the price point that had what I was looking for. There was no internet to read reviews or get people's opinions. I'm not sure which era is better. I'll hear one opinion and I'm all behind that idea, and then hear another opinion and I'm on board that point of view. I haven't figured out exactly what to look for in a bike these days. Seems like there are more choices.


Bottom line though, I still want to work on my Schwinn. I think I want the best of both worlds.

Lorig20

Yes, lugged frame! I still remember reading in a bike book that lugged frame construction was superior and so I stopped looking at discount store bikes because none of them had the lugged construction. That's when I started looking at a real bike shop and found the Schwinn.

TallRider

"lugged construction is better" is an overstatement. In the 1970s, nearly all bikes were lugged because welded construction was not perfected at a cost-effective price-point. Partly because of the steel alloys available. Once the right alloys and techniques arrived, welded construction became cheaper than lugged. And I say this as someone who has six bicycles with lugged-steel frames.

There may be more risk of a failure-prone welded frame, than producing a failure-prone lugged frame. But My 1978 Schwinn Le Tour cracked at the bottom bracket lug.

Get your Schwinn tuned-up to rideable levels, either through learning how to fix it or taking it to a shop. Those tasks have been discussed above.

Riding the Schwinn could help you figure out what sort of bike position you want in the future. Remember that drop bars don't need to be synonymous with lower handlebars; you can still get a more-upright position with a higher-rise stem. However, you are probably out-of-luck at getting a higher-rise position on your 1977 Schwinn, because it takes a 21.15mm non-standard quill stem, and it would be next-to-impossible to find a high-rise stem with that quill diameter. I suspect nearly every stem produced with the 21.15mm quill has a horizontal (parallel to the ground) extension. If you want a more-upright position on the Schwinn, probably the best you can do is find an old 21.15mm stem with a shorter reach (so the handlebars will be closer to you, which effectively means you can sit more upright).

Note how each of these stems (on a Schwinn Traveler, Le Tour III, and Le Tour Luxe) shows a ridge where it narrows from 22.2mm to 21.15mm.

Even if the handlebars are still lower than you'd prefer (and it sounds like you're open/uncertain about this to begin with), riding the Schwinn can at least help you figure out if you like the hand positions available on a curved drop bar.

Lorig20

I went into the bike shop today and I was steered to the Liv/Giant Escape type bikes. The salesman said basically pick my price point and color between the Giant and Trek, otherwise they are close enough to not matter so much. He also encouraged me to bring my Schwinn in and they would be happy to look at it. He said the shifting problem could be as simple as replacing a cable that may have rusted.

So I was sitting here asking my son who rode it last, exactly what it was or wasn't doing. I should have asked him sooner, because he says it will shift gears, what it does is shift gears on it's own. You're just going along at a nice cadence, and it'll shift gears, and through your rhythm off. Anyone have any idea of what could be wrong there? I want to figure out as much as I can about what's wrong before either tinkering with it myself, or having it worked on.

TallRider

if it shifts gears on its own, then the shift lever is likely loose. The derailer is tensioned by a spring, and that tension must be resisted by friction at the shifter. If the shifter is loose, the spring in the derailer will start to take over and shift on its own. This might be as easy as tightening a bolt (by hand or with a screwdriver or box wrench, depending on the shifter). The bolt holding the shifter should be loose enough that you can move the shifter easily enough by hand, but not so loose that the derailer spring can move the shifter.