sd5782 

Lots of searching and not real sure of answers on this. I thought to post here vs the mechanics forum, because it is definitely vintage. I have a very nice Shimano wheel set from around 1984-85 with a 6 speed Uniglide freehub. It is the second version with the common 10mm mounting bolt. It is not the UG/HG combo version that is threaded for a lockring. I searched quite a bit for specifics.





Research shows this freehub to be 6/7 speed, with most shown as 7. It is of course spaced to 126mm. Of course, you all say to just upgrade to the HG 7 speed which makes great sense except that I also bought at a swap meet a Uniglide parts box.




So, I have plenty of sprockets to play with. My confusion is with sprocket spacers and the freehub body. It is listed as 6/7 speed. Was there only one body length? If so, were there different spacer thicknesses for 6 and 7 speed on the same body as I would suspect? What thickness might the 7 speed spacers be? Mounting up seven sprockets doesn’t work of course. I acquired some 3.1mm spacers for an 8 speed HG that gets it close with seven but only around 2-3 threads engaging on the locking small sprocket. I can probably sand these spacers easily and get it working. Friction shifting of course. This is mostly just trying to keep some nice vintage parts useful, especially with the versatility of being able to change gearing with sprockets on hand. I don’t really mind how the Uniglide shifts at all, especially in friction mode.

70sSanO

With friction shifting, you can space the cogs however you want. Shimano 7 speed spacing is 3.15 and 8 speed is 3.0.

If you want more threads for your first position cog, just sand the spacers to the thickness that will get you there. I have a bag of various spacers and have used a digital caliper to customize the spacing.

You may find that splitting the difference between 7 and 8 works. It is a bit of a moot point as a few thousandths are not important. But getting DS dropout clearance may be a concern.

John

Edit added: Here is Sheldon Brown's Cassette Cribsheet. Cog thicknesses do change, but with friction it is not a concern.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-spacing.html

rccardr 

If you can find them easily and cheaply, try 9 speed spacers and then add a shim or two to the backside of the cassette to get it tight.
Easier than sanding….

PhilFo 

Should be the same as 8 speed spacers. When I needed a spacer for my 7 speed cassette on the M730 hub (when I was building my Breezer), I used one of the old plastic spacers from an 8 speed cassette. I sanded the little tabs around the holes and it worked perfectly. I love the old UG system and a shop box like that is definitely a dream find.

sd5782 

So, I’ve studied the Sheldon crib sheet but my question remains on the freehub body. Was that body like I have pictured only ever a 6 speed? Stack height of gears and spacers is only around 30mm. The crib sheet plus my measurements show a 7 speed being around 35mm. I’m guessing that all the 6/7 references must refer to the later hybrid version of the Uniglide that can also take the hyperglide and is threaded for the lock ring and threaded end sprocket.
The small co-op I go to may have some parts. I think I will look for spacers, and that hybrid Uniglide freehub version. That would allow either 7 speed version and keep things properly spaced in case I ever do something crazy like indexed shifting.

Edit; 7 speed is actually around 32 by my measurements which doesn’t give much lock threading on the first position sprocket.

blamester

You have to put them on and see. If you use 9 or 10 speed spacers maybe an extra cog will fit on.

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Lenton58 

I was asking myself similar questions just before seeing this thread. I find that friction shifting 7 cogs on a freehub spaced for 126mm a bit finicky. I'm thinking of trying to put on 6 cogs for my next build using another freehub.

@sd5782 ... great score on that box of goodies — so envious!

BTW, I think that 'sanding' spacers is a pretty desperate measure. I don't think you'd ever get a perfect profile. I expect it would not make much difference for the smaller cogs, but for the larger ones, it might. Just my 2-cents of thought. I've never actually done it for this application.

PhilFo 

7 cogs fit on the M730 freehub. M732 is the later type which uses either thread on cog or a lockring.

sd5782 

I’m thinking that is what I just got from the co-op. Slim pickings there. Taking the hub apart to separate the freehub though reveals that the one I purchased has the thick base flange which is perhaps not ideal. Will see.

KCT1986

If the doner is a M732, then it is one of the odd versions (M900 also) that had the deep mounting depth and doesn't use a washer behind the freehub body. Most of the other UG/HG 7 speed bodies used the common mount type (M730, M650, M550 ..., as well as the non-DA road freehubs).

sd5782 

It is indeed the M732 spaced 130 with 32 hole spoking. The deep mounting depth was not visually apparent as it was mounted to a hub. They had no loose freehubs. Probably $11 wasted except now I have axle and seal parts. It does protrude perhaps an extra 2-3mm on the hub I wanted to use it on. I’m not a machinist but do have a mini lathe which makes me think of chucking this up and knocking back the cog end stops at the flange perhaps 2mm. The cogs would then slide on an extra 2mm. I’m not sure if that is even possible though. There is plenty of metal there.