TomD77

Either my saddle doesn't work for me or there is a lot about adjustment that I don't know. Well, actually the 2nd proposition is true in any case.

I seem to have a choice between close to debilitating abrasion and compression forward after 2 hours with the nose tipped up a notch past level or, at level or below, I can't stay on the dam*** thing. I keep sliding forward, it keeps constant arm pressure and attention to keep off the nose. Is there some magic combination between height, tilt and front/back that will do it. The height and front/back adjustments are done with my understanding of leg angle and extension.

Or is this something that will only be cured with a different saddle.

I'm about 6 months into my 3rd year of riding and since buying my 1st road bike Feb of last year, I've never gotten the saddle just right. The saddle that I'm using now came off my previous bike, a flat bar road bike but with a somewhat more vertical riding position. I put more than 5000 miles on that bike/saddle combination without any notice of a problem. So my best guess is that it may be related to the more rotated forward riding position.

10 Wheels

Set up your new bike to match the first one.

curdog

I tend to start with the fore/aft position. I've found that this isn't so much dictating comfort, but more a "fit" consideration. I then try to methodically adjust the tilt to find a comfort zone. I start out level and than change by a degree first up and than down, until I find a comfortable tilt.This all assumes I already have the seat height set correctly. If not, I try to do this before fooling with the tilt.
After saying all of this, I have no clue whether the same procedure will be successful for you! Sometimes it's just a matter of saddle shape which can't be compensated for regardless of adjustments. I have never gotten a saddle to the point of comfort nirvana. I figure that if I can get a saddle to be fairly comfortable for 60-70 miles, I'm a happy camper!
Good luck. I'm sure you'll need it!

qcpmsame 

Tom, how does the new bicycles geometry compare to the old bicycle? What 10Wheels and Curdog said will help if the geometries are pretty close. I tend to favor Curdog's idea of startng with fore-aft placement and working from there. Just change one movement at a time, however.

Bill

cccorlew

I feel your pain.
Some notched seatposts don't have the click that's perfect. I'm having trouble finding the perfect spot. Could that be your issue?

TomD77

The bike geometries aren't the same, the top tube is shorter on my first bike Bianchi Camaleonte than on my Bianchi C2C road bike. I'm definitely more stretched out on the road bike.

Heading out right now, think I'll try the seat an inch forward, nose one notch low and see what happens.

ThatBritBloke

Try a shorter stem.

bigbadwullf

If you are sliding forward I'd think you'd need to raise the nose. I'd try moving it forward and raising the nose. Gotta get that weight back on the seat. Yup, or a shorter stem.

NOS88

What kind of seat post are you using? Some posts have an infinite amount of adjustability when it comes to tilt. Others are notched or in some other way limit the tilt adjustability. I have an Ultegra seat post, which I think looks great, however it does not allow me to completely dial in the tilt I need. Additionally, I think the fore/aft adjustments are critical when your position (more or less upright) changes

stapfam

Boreas and the TCR have the same size and type of Micro-adjust seat posts and the saddles are very similar. Saddle to bar height is the same as is distance to the hoods so both cockpits are set up the same. But after the winters lay off- I raised the bars by 2" on the TCR. That caused me a bit of discomfort and I found my self slipping forward on the saddle.After a while I was not on the sit bones and a bit of pain was coming in. Just to check that this was the problem I did a 30 miler on Boreas- on which the bars had not been altered-and comfy saddle. Even did a short ride swapping posts and saddles and still no pain.

So that raising the bars- by what did not appear to be much- caused a bit of discomfort. I just tilted the nose up a fraction and I no longer slip forward- am on the sit bones and I no longer feel the saddle.

berner

I find that when the saddle is correctly set up, I can shift position in the same way that I shift position of my hands on the bars. After a while I stop thinking about it much but I still shift around some and stand to peddle a few strokes also. On the saddle, I sit toward the back for a while then sit toward the front for a while.

Colonelmom

Did you really raise your bars 2" or 2cm.. 2" is a huge jump... you might try a tompson micro adjustable ZERO set back seat post....

Racer Ex 

If you've lost weight or moved it around a lot of times what used to work no longer does. Given that the saddle can make or break enjoying your ride it might be time to check into something that might fit you better.

stapfam

Yep 2". Normal ride position is with the bars 4" below the saddle. I have had a long lay off and back pain has set in- but not from Cycling. So to play safe I raised the bars as I have never cut this stem and took spacers from on top of the bars to below. Hasn't improved the back and the only thing I have noticed is that I am not as aerodynamic and mentally I am not in the right position to push hard.

GFish

Here's how I would approach this, in order of importance.

1) Adjust saddle setback
2) Adjust saddle height
3) Check bar reach and height
4) Check stem length, replace if to short, to long, or angle is to high or low.
5) Adjust saddle tilt

After making the required adjustments, put some miles on the bike. Make minor adjustments as needed. It also helps to keep track of each adjustment and write these down.

Since your discomfort is coming at the 2 hour mark, I suspect some fatigue is starting to set in. If your body position is already stretched out, you're probably moving forward on the saddle. In other words, physically, you are still acclimating to the riding position.

A shorter stem or adjusting the saddle setback could help.

If any of the above doesn't help, then start thinking about a new saddle or buying a better quality bibs/shorts.

A lot of this takes time with miles in the saddle. I also think some of this is somewhat elusive, since long distances in the saddle can create discomfort.

I'm still working through this puzzle myself. As I continue to evolve as a cyclist, my body continues to adapt. Bike fit, comfort and components continue to change as well. Where I used to need an 80mm stem, I now use 100mm. I started with a cushy saddle, I now prefer a semi- hard saddle.

The point is, you'll need to make adjustments in a logical procession to find a level of comfort that will work for you.

All the best...

GFish

No micro adjustments for you.

I lowered my bars 10mm the other day and noticed a huge difference. Don't think I could handle a 2" adjustment.

You must be pretty flexible.

stapfam

Not flexible but just the ride position I worked into over the past 6 years since going road. The lower position helped my back tremendously but as I said- I raised the bars on one bike 6 weeks ago to stop a back problem getting worse. I still ride the bikes with the lower bars but not for more than 30 miles at a time. I am planning to do at least 90 this weekend so don't want to take the chance of a back problem.

Only problem I have found with the high bar position is the slipping forward on the saddle like Tom. Seeing as how I do have micro adjust on my main two bikes- it is easily adjustable. Been looking for a decent photo to show the TCR before and after but just don't have them now.

But my 3 rides right now and as you can see- The Pinnie and the Giant both have uncut stems. This is with the bars on all 3 at 4" below the saddle. By swopping spacers these two can have the bars raised by 2". Flip the stems and it could be more. Boreas is the "Go Faster" bike and I tried flipping the stem to the lower position and it gave me neck ache.




And Boreas up on the stand and the bars as high as they can go with the saddle set up right for me as first fit from the LBS- it works---For ME

TomD77

I wish there were a "thanks" function here as in a couple other of the boards that I frequent. There are a number of very helpful answers well worth a thanks.

I did a 2-1/2 hour ride this AM after running the seat in by 1/2" and leveling it and seem to have found the magic setting where it irritates and I still slide forward though neither as badly as before. The good news is that I could tolerate it that long but I found myself up on the pedals a lot toward the end. Good thing I like getting up. A ride of more than 40 miles would be a real problem

Rowan

And nowhere in your posts do you tell what saddle it is. It's a bit like a doctor providing a prescription for "an ache somewhere on my body".

As an aside question, is there a difference in the crank lengths between the two bikes?

berner

If you are sliding forward I believe the saddle is too far forward. I have had to install a new seat post with 25mm of setback and also slide the seat well back. I've also installed a new saddle. This saddle is very much like the old saddle except that it is most comfortable, even in the drops, with the nose tilted up several degrees instead of level like the old saddle was. This is a mystery to me and can't see any reason why it should be so. Don't be afraid to try the extreme ends of the range. You can always change back.

In my case, I've been trying to solve a hand numbness issue. In trying different positions for the bars, seat and seat post, I've places a dot of typewriter whiteout to mark a position, say on the seat post. Then while out riding, I can easily move the saddle up several mm. If that does not help, it is simple to get back to the marked position. When trying many changes this has worked well for me. I have not solved your problem but hope this methodology will help in that process.

At some point, the position on the bike will begin to feel quite comfy. At that point it may be good to begin recording actual measurements. Park Tool has helpfully provided a fit chart for a permanent record. https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...itioning-chart

stapfam

Hand Numbness and I have had it for a while. Recently found a cure for me and that is hand position rotation on the bars. my hands fall naturaly onto the hoods in a set position. I twist the wrist to push the thumbs out from the bike and after 10 miles or so I rotate again to push the thumbs in. If I leave the hands in the natural position- pain comes in after very few miles.

qcpmsame 

Good to know the adjustment worked for you Tom. Hope things stay good for your riding now.

Bill

Gonzo Bob

Could be. Make sure you are pivoting your pelvis forward instead of just bending at the waist. Scroll down a bit on this page... https://cobbcycling.com/cart/V-Flow_Plus_White_C1P3.cfm

rdtompki

Getting a fit wouldn't be a bad place to start. Get a recommendation from some riding friends or from a club. You don't want to go to someone who is in the fit business to make money selling components.