banaeatingbiker

hi,
the bike steerng with original long stem is good, but my arm is not long enough, my writs aches from overstrentching, could someone tell me if I could replace it with a short stem but with long supporting down tube, so it gets closer to my hand, will there be a side effect on steering or even a danger of driver falling over, because the pivot is brought closer to my center of weight of upper body, when coasting on downslop will there be an increased danger of falling over ahead ?

Thanks,

cny-bikeman

Going both short and tall may not be necessary and can introduce other problems. For one, the amount of weight on your saddle will increase dramatically, merely moving your discomfort to another part of your body. Higher stem position will also of course increase wind position, a shorter one less so. The other issue is that you should make sure your saddle is in the proper fore-aft position, as well as height, before deciding on stem length or height. There's no danger of instability with a shorter/taller stem.

CliffordK

Keep in mind that there are two common stem sizes:

1" steer tube, (7/8" / 22.2mm stem).
1 1/8" steer tube, (1"/25.4mm stem).

It is quite possible that your MTB has the 1 1/8" steer tube, and takes the larger stem.

Bar clamp sizes may vary some, but may interchange a bit. 25.4mm is common, and probably what you have.

CliffordK

As far as your questions. Steering may be affected some, perhaps a little "twitchier". However, you'll get used to the changes quickly. Thus, not more dangerous for crashes.

As cny-bikeman mentioned, you may end up moving your stress points around some like putting more weight on the seat.

A few things about a short "cock-pit". It will make it much easier to accidentally wheelie when climbing steep hills (20% slope or so). It may also make the bike feel uncomfortable with your knees and arms getting in the way. I don't think downhill or stopping will be a problem, but standing and pedaling may be uncomfortable.

I'm not real familiar with MTB sizes, but it appears as if your seat is significantly higher than the bars. I think that frame may be too small for you. You may, however, choose a riser bar that wouldn't significantly shorten the length of stem.

Nashbar ATB Comfort Quill Stem - Nashbar
https://www.ebay.com/itm/vintage-CRO...-/272821837211

HillRider

Unless you go extremely short and extremely high, the effect on steering and your balance should be a non-issue. The stem you show is about as short as they come and about as tall as they come and is probably too much for what you need.

Andrew R Stewart 

A few comments.


As to seat set back/fore/aft- With a more upright body one often trirs to slide back on the seat for two reasons. One is to compensate for the less weight on your hands more weight is placed on your bottom. So sliding to the wider portion of the saddle gets greater support. The other is that your upper body/thigh angle will open up with less reach to the bars. So by sliding your butt aft you tend to reestablish that angle, to a degree (bad pun). Often when we do this refitting for our customers we find the need to also change out the seat to a "fuller" one.


A change to handle bars with a rise in them and/or a swept back angle to the hand grip section might also be considered. The grip angle has a larger effect then many would initially think.


As the shift and brake controls raise up the ability for the cables to reach the higher lever locations will be challenged. I see too short and kinked cables often as people try to lift the grips up. Cables that don't allow full steering rotation without becoming too tight. Expect to need to replace the front brake cable/casing at the minimum. Andy

fietsbob

You giving up on single track? if you are JRA, then a tall comfortable , bars closer to you set up may make you happy.

weight shift onto your back side, off your hands , also unweight the front wheel

so carving those bermed downhill corners wont offer the front wheel bite..






.....

alcjphil

Your current setup is rather extreme, but that does not mean that you have to go to another extreme. You may need a stem that allows a higher handlebar position, and you may need a stem that has a shorter reach, but the stem you link to is almost certainly another extreme solution.
I knew someone who had a 5 speed derailleur bike back in the days of of friction shifting. She had a lot of trouble riding her bike. If it was hard to pedal, she would shift to the easiest gear and of course, it was much too low a gear for conditions and she would push the shifter to a better gear and invariably push too far. That seem to be what you are trying to do with choosing the stem you propose to use

Shimagnolo

I have a 1994 Cannondale M700 that came with a 150mm stem with almost no vertical angle at all.
Long rides were just killing my neck because it stretched me out so far.
I replaced it with a stem that put the bar about 2" closer *and* 2" higher.
It made absolutely no difference whatsoever in handling.

DannoXYZ 

Post a picture of you on bike with hands on grips in typical riding position. A lot of wrist & hand issues are matter of training and positioning:

1. Do core-strengthening exercises, specifically back-lifts
2. Rotate hands so wrists are straight, not bent
3. Bend elbows, 60-90 degrees. Look in store windows when you ride by

Also note straight-back rotated/bent-hip position puts your shoulders further forward than sitting with straight-up torso and bending forward at waist. I started out with an 80mm stem on my MTB and after about year of riding & training, I gradually moved up to 150mm stem.

u235

If you decide to go with a different stem, an adjustable one might be a good option. You get a lot of flexibility without committing to a specific non adjustable that might not feel right.

Here is a random one as an example
Zoom Quick Comfort Adjustable Quill Stem | Jenson USA

I have a hybrid with an adjustable stem that I rode everywhere for years even as a clyde and I never had a problem with it.