Selle Anatomica Saddles
#201
Junior Member
The X2 saddle I just received has a gap of 12mm at the narrowest point, instead of the recommended 6mm. Should I just leave it? It cannot be adjusted from wide to narrow, I believe? The tension bolt only pulls it to make it wider.
Last edited by mars2020; 04-05-19 at 11:10 PM.
#202
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If that's the way it came, I'd leave it alone and ride. You will likely find that the saddle will stretch dramatically on the first ride, narrowing the gap.
#203
Junior Member
#204
Senior Member
Indirectly, yes. The slight forward rotation of the hips and flattened back causes you to rest on a more anterior portion of the sit bones and you'll scoot back on the saddle slightly in order to position the sit bones on the sweet spot of the saddle. The scoot back is what moves your knee back in relation to the pedal spindle. The slight forward hip rotation also (usually) means you'll probably want to take a bit of the tilt out of the saddle too, but not all of it. The saddle design requires a bit of tilt to function as a hammock.
Reach and saddle set back are really only indirectly associated. KOPS (as a starting point) has nothing to do with reach and everything to do with saddle setback and more specifically, your sit bone position on the saddle. In my case, I can use a zero setback post only on frames with 70-71 degree seat tube angles. For 72 degree seat tubes I go with about 12-15mm setback and with 73+ degree I go with 20-25mm setback. The set back has everything to do with my femur length and desired KOPS position (which for me is slightly behind spindle). As the seat tubes get more steep I need more setback to keep my femur length (knee) oriented to the pedal spindle at the distance I like.
Stem length comes in to play only to the extent that the length of the stem causes my upper body to either work with my saddle position, or against it. When my stem is too short my upper body wants to sit more upright. My back curves and hips roll back (more vertical) and as a result I tend to slide forward off the sweet spot of the saddle and onto the narrow section. The shorter my stem, the more I need to raise the tilt of the saddle to keep from sliding off the front. A longer stem creates a better reach which flattens my back, rolls my hips forward appropriately and scoots my butt back into the saddle. When the stem gets too long I stretch too far forward, roll my hips too far forward (pressure on the perineum) and my butt wants to slide off the back of the saddle.
Given the unusually short reach of the Vaya (considering the reach vs frame size), and the seat tube angle (72.5 for the 57cm), I'm wondering why they would spec a zero setback post. I'm not so sure the Vaya is the best choice for those Jones bars. The bars put your hands pretty much even with the steer tube. Frames deigned for flat bars have longer reach than usual, not shorter. In the end, you might find the only way you can use the SA is with the nose way way up.
-Kedosto
Reach and saddle set back are really only indirectly associated. KOPS (as a starting point) has nothing to do with reach and everything to do with saddle setback and more specifically, your sit bone position on the saddle. In my case, I can use a zero setback post only on frames with 70-71 degree seat tube angles. For 72 degree seat tubes I go with about 12-15mm setback and with 73+ degree I go with 20-25mm setback. The set back has everything to do with my femur length and desired KOPS position (which for me is slightly behind spindle). As the seat tubes get more steep I need more setback to keep my femur length (knee) oriented to the pedal spindle at the distance I like.
Stem length comes in to play only to the extent that the length of the stem causes my upper body to either work with my saddle position, or against it. When my stem is too short my upper body wants to sit more upright. My back curves and hips roll back (more vertical) and as a result I tend to slide forward off the sweet spot of the saddle and onto the narrow section. The shorter my stem, the more I need to raise the tilt of the saddle to keep from sliding off the front. A longer stem creates a better reach which flattens my back, rolls my hips forward appropriately and scoots my butt back into the saddle. When the stem gets too long I stretch too far forward, roll my hips too far forward (pressure on the perineum) and my butt wants to slide off the back of the saddle.
Given the unusually short reach of the Vaya (considering the reach vs frame size), and the seat tube angle (72.5 for the 57cm), I'm wondering why they would spec a zero setback post. I'm not so sure the Vaya is the best choice for those Jones bars. The bars put your hands pretty much even with the steer tube. Frames deigned for flat bars have longer reach than usual, not shorter. In the end, you might find the only way you can use the SA is with the nose way way up.
-Kedosto
I really cannot see the modern trend in favor of zero-setback seat posts. I've been able to adapt to a wide range of frames, but with seemingly outlandish saddle installations. My favorite rides are my Mondonicos, which somehow pedal beautifully. But the 53 cm (1984 or so) has a seat tube angle of 75 degrees and the 54 cm (2005 or so) has 74 degrees. With both of these frames I use a Nitto S-84 seatpost, which has a 35 mm setback and a very long-railed Specialized Toupe Gel or Selle AnAtomica saddle. My classic 1980 Masi has the same issue, but it's really too small (M53, which actually measures 51 cm c-c) and needs an extreme stem (110 mm extension. I adjust KOPS for the plumb line to the front of the kneecap to be 1 to 2 cm behind the pedal centerline. I cannot comfortably use Brooks saddles on these three bikes. I've also explored larger frames, a Trek 620 56 cm c-c, and found the setback was still difficult to manage. In terms of stack/reach, the reach was still very hard to manage, and I could not be comfortable on the bike.
So I've been disappointed with the fit of these high-end vintage-style road frames, but also with a few Treks with 73 degree seat tubes. In addition I have a 1984 610 with a 73 degree
In contrast I also have a 1952 Rudge clubman-style bike which has a 71 degree seatpost angle and a 55 cm c-c seat tube angle. Before I tore it down I checked the fit, and it felt ok (stationary on the floor, but not tested riding on the road) with the original-style straight pin seatpost and the vintage Ideale steel saddle clamp holding a B17 N up on top. In the tops with my seatbones comfortable I had the Brooks saddle centered on the steel clamp. It was comfortable enough to promise great things. I expect it to have a very comfortable ride, with its 105 cm wheelbase, long (45 cm) skinny chainstays, and similarly long, thin, and curved fork blades. Also, trail is only about 40 mm.
It looks to me like for a given riding position and a given set of cockpit gear (bars, stem, lever/shifter), the setback from the BB plumb to the sitbones contact is the same for all the bikes I own. Then it follows that the cockpit reach (distance from the BB plumb to the top of the levers) is also a constant, if you use the same levers, bars of the same reach, and stems of the same extension.
One frustration in all this is that when I've spoken to frame builders and fitters about getting a frame built with a similarly shallow seat tube less than 73 degrees, I get nearly outright refusals, saying hardly anybody needs an angle less than 73 degrees. I just don't get this, but I don't want a builder who can't believe in my requirements and denies my experience.
#205
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Think 3 times before buy anything from SA!!!
1month ago I was buying SA NSX from garage sale- closeout (order # 26908. Closeout saddles are brand new saddles in colors or models that are either limited edition and/or are no longer being carried), but get !used! saddle
. SA tell me u can return it At their own expense (aha, I
was pay 30usd for send it to me and 20usd for return). and also tell
dont make mountain out of a molehill. I also compared SA NSX and X2 ith Brooks b17 imperial. (I have a width between the bones of the pelvis 11.5 cm) Brooks was more comfortable for me, as its frame is a little wider.. Think 3
times before buy anything from SA!(
1month ago I was buying SA NSX from garage sale- closeout (order # 26908. Closeout saddles are brand new saddles in colors or models that are either limited edition and/or are no longer being carried), but get !used! saddle
. SA tell me u can return it At their own expense (aha, I
was pay 30usd for send it to me and 20usd for return). and also tell
dont make mountain out of a molehill. I also compared SA NSX and X2 ith Brooks b17 imperial. (I have a width between the bones of the pelvis 11.5 cm) Brooks was more comfortable for me, as its frame is a little wider.. Think 3
times before buy anything from SA!(
#206
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Welcome to BF. Nice that you found a saddle that suits you.
#207
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Maybe try a builder who is just starting out and doesn't have a reputation to protect and is eager for any business. He may be willing to build what you want anonymously, no name or identifying features on the frame.
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I am strongly considering picking up an X2 for my gravel bike but am concerned about how the leather will do for this type of riding. I live in New England and our earliest season gravel events feature snow/slush/mud. During a ride here even in the nicer months, rain and mud is almost always a possibility. I have experienced all four seasons on a single ride on more than one occasion. That being said, I have no desire to have to worry about bringing along a rain cover (besides the fact it is ugly). I do take good care of my equipment after rides and would be happy to regularly apply a liberal coating of saddle sauce to the underside/edges. Is the saddle really very prone to damage due to the elements, or can this be alleviated with proper care? Is this the right saddle for this type of usage, or will I be likely to simply destroy the thing?
#209
Non omnino gravis
If it's raining, you're going to want a rain cover. So I would say the R2 would be a better solution. I have both an X2 and an H2, and have gotten tired of always having to have a saddle cover stashed away for emergencies-- when rain came out of nowhere and I had to lash a plastic bag over the saddle while the bike rode on the rack on the back of the car, that was the last straw. Ordered the R2, just waiting for SA to get it shipped out.
#210
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I am strongly considering picking up an X2 for my gravel bike but am concerned about how the leather will do for this type of riding. I live in New England and our earliest season gravel events feature snow/slush/mud. During a ride here even in the nicer months, rain and mud is almost always a possibility. I have experienced all four seasons on a single ride on more than one occasion. That being said, I have no desire to have to worry about bringing along a rain cover (besides the fact it is ugly). I do take good care of my equipment after rides and would be happy to regularly apply a liberal coating of saddle sauce to the underside/edges. Is the saddle really very prone to damage due to the elements, or can this be alleviated with proper care? Is this the right saddle for this type of usage, or will I be likely to simply destroy the thing?
I use an X1 on my sloppy weather road bike and it's held up fine, despite seeing rain. That's because my butt protects it from the top, and the fenders protect it from below.
In your case, I agree with Dr. I. - get one of their forthcoming rubber saddles.
#211
Non omnino gravis
This thread popped into my head as I was reading a "production update" from SA on the R2. I ordered mine back toward the end of March, using Paypal Buyer Credit (hey, no interest for 6 months over $100.) I've already paid off the pre-order, and they still haven't starting punching out tops yet. I'm not upset, I just think they initially over-reached with their optimistic release schedule. Who knows how many materials they had to test before arriving at one that works.
I'm fine with waiting, I'd much rather have a properly developed product than one that ends up going in on warranty several times. My H2 has thousands upon thousands of miles on it, and it's not gonna rain again for... months, so the R2 is not a necessity for me at all. Some other folks on the internet are absolutely heated. They need to learn some patience.
I'm fine with waiting, I'd much rather have a properly developed product than one that ends up going in on warranty several times. My H2 has thousands upon thousands of miles on it, and it's not gonna rain again for... months, so the R2 is not a necessity for me at all. Some other folks on the internet are absolutely heated. They need to learn some patience.
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#212
Non omnino gravis
I haven't heard a single word from SA since that last email in the first week of June-- and this was after they had assured us a ship date before Easter. So they're just a tiny bit late. Like 4 months or so? Their last blog post was back in May, and outside of a single email, SA has pretty much gone silent on the R2. It doesn't start raining out here much at all for another 3 months, so as of today I'm still fine with waiting. If winter (at least what we have of it in SoCal) starts to kick in and I still haven't seen an R2, my mood will certainly change.
There are folks that pre-ordered in November of 2018. I imagine they feel differently. I'm still in "Kickstarter Mode," in which I expect only a little more than nothing at all. Not my first crowd-funding, and have yet to have a single one deliver on time.
My H2 is closing in on 10k miles, still going strong.
There are folks that pre-ordered in November of 2018. I imagine they feel differently. I'm still in "Kickstarter Mode," in which I expect only a little more than nothing at all. Not my first crowd-funding, and have yet to have a single one deliver on time.
My H2 is closing in on 10k miles, still going strong.
#213
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I pre-ordered the R2 in January. I'm a pretty patient guy but I'm getting close to taking them up on their offer of a refund. For now, I'm riding on an H2 and a couple of B17s and they meet all my needs as far as comfort.
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Good point about measuring distances to document a previous saddle position!
Thanks all. I rode again yesterday, had planned to do a 30 mile gravel ride with the saddle, but cut it short (15mi) because I was slipping again towards the front. It really pissed me off to have to push back on the bars for miles, even though it was just minimal pressure. The frustration adds up over the miles. But still, the saddle felt very comfortable otherwise. Now I just have to find a happy medium of saddle tilt. I also need a better bike fit. For the first time ever I used a plumb line to adjust saddle position fore and aft, and was surprised to find just how far my knee is forward of KOPS. The seatpost is a zero setback, came with the bike, and with the AS saddle slid all the way back (with a cm left to spare), I'm about 1.5" in front of KOPS. I do understand that KOPS is just a starting point, but apparently I've been riding well forward of KOPS. So I'll have to dial in a better fit, and THEN work on the saddle. Interestingly, it's possible that even a post with a 25mm setback will not be sufficient to get me at KOPS. I have a 2 bolt Velo Orange 30mm setback post arriving tomorrow, so I'll start there. I never thought of myself as having a long femur. Hmmm...I probably don't, but I'm pretty sure that I shouldn't be riding on a zero setback post, so I'll start there.
Thanks all. I rode again yesterday, had planned to do a 30 mile gravel ride with the saddle, but cut it short (15mi) because I was slipping again towards the front. It really pissed me off to have to push back on the bars for miles, even though it was just minimal pressure. The frustration adds up over the miles. But still, the saddle felt very comfortable otherwise. Now I just have to find a happy medium of saddle tilt. I also need a better bike fit. For the first time ever I used a plumb line to adjust saddle position fore and aft, and was surprised to find just how far my knee is forward of KOPS. The seatpost is a zero setback, came with the bike, and with the AS saddle slid all the way back (with a cm left to spare), I'm about 1.5" in front of KOPS. I do understand that KOPS is just a starting point, but apparently I've been riding well forward of KOPS. So I'll have to dial in a better fit, and THEN work on the saddle. Interestingly, it's possible that even a post with a 25mm setback will not be sufficient to get me at KOPS. I have a 2 bolt Velo Orange 30mm setback post arriving tomorrow, so I'll start there. I never thought of myself as having a long femur. Hmmm...I probably don't, but I'm pretty sure that I shouldn't be riding on a zero setback post, so I'll start there.
#215
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Annual Half price sale
Whatever you do, don't remove the sticker from the bottom of the seat!
A tragic tale with a happy ending.
The Tragic part
I recently bought a seat from Sella, along with the waterproof cover and saddle sauce to protect it from our wet Houston weather. The instructions say to coat the entire underside of the saddle and any raw edges of the leather with the protectant. Well, there were a couple of stickers on the bottom of the saddle that needed to be removed so I could fully coat the leather.
Fast forward to the next morning, when I go online to register my saddle for the warranty. The form asks for my saddle serial number, which is on the sticker on the bottom of the saddle. oops. I emailed Sella and explained what has happened. They responded and let me know they did have a record of the sale, but removing the sticker with the serial number voids the warranty. It even says so on the sticker. Now of course I don't have the sticker to confirm this, but I am sure it was there. Yes, I screwed up. I did not go dig up a magnifying glass so my old eyes could read that tiny print. On the other hand, how are you to properly treat leather covered in paper stickers?
The Happy Ending
Their email to me had a phone number and extension, so I called them up this morning. To my surprise, i did not get some customer service drone. The company owner answered the phone. She was very nice. Yes, my warranty is still void, but she assured me there would be no problem since I had purchased directly form them and they had a record of the purchase. If I had purchased from a bike shop it would be a different story, since there would be no way of knowing when I bought the seat. Yay!
BTW, I really like the seat. It took me all of about 5 seconds to decide it was waaaay more comfortable than my previous seat. I've got a 100 or so miles on it now (it keeps raining down here). Add to that a company whose owner answers email, and include her phone number. Who worked with a customer who messed up? I want to deal with that company.
One last thing. Normally, I would have bought from my LBS. Even if they are a bit more expensive, I like to support them. In this case, it turns out Sella was having their annual half price sale. Could not pass up a deal like that. In this case it was fortunate I did. I will make it up to my LBS somehow.
In the meantime, for the rest of you, learn from my mistake: DON'T REMOVE THAT STICKER!!
A tragic tale with a happy ending.
The Tragic part
I recently bought a seat from Sella, along with the waterproof cover and saddle sauce to protect it from our wet Houston weather. The instructions say to coat the entire underside of the saddle and any raw edges of the leather with the protectant. Well, there were a couple of stickers on the bottom of the saddle that needed to be removed so I could fully coat the leather.
Fast forward to the next morning, when I go online to register my saddle for the warranty. The form asks for my saddle serial number, which is on the sticker on the bottom of the saddle. oops. I emailed Sella and explained what has happened. They responded and let me know they did have a record of the sale, but removing the sticker with the serial number voids the warranty. It even says so on the sticker. Now of course I don't have the sticker to confirm this, but I am sure it was there. Yes, I screwed up. I did not go dig up a magnifying glass so my old eyes could read that tiny print. On the other hand, how are you to properly treat leather covered in paper stickers?
The Happy Ending
Their email to me had a phone number and extension, so I called them up this morning. To my surprise, i did not get some customer service drone. The company owner answered the phone. She was very nice. Yes, my warranty is still void, but she assured me there would be no problem since I had purchased directly form them and they had a record of the purchase. If I had purchased from a bike shop it would be a different story, since there would be no way of knowing when I bought the seat. Yay!
BTW, I really like the seat. It took me all of about 5 seconds to decide it was waaaay more comfortable than my previous seat. I've got a 100 or so miles on it now (it keeps raining down here). Add to that a company whose owner answers email, and include her phone number. Who worked with a customer who messed up? I want to deal with that company.
One last thing. Normally, I would have bought from my LBS. Even if they are a bit more expensive, I like to support them. In this case, it turns out Sella was having their annual half price sale. Could not pass up a deal like that. In this case it was fortunate I did. I will make it up to my LBS somehow.
In the meantime, for the rest of you, learn from my mistake: DON'T REMOVE THAT STICKER!!
When is Selle Anatomica's Annual Half-Price Sale?
#216
Senior Member
Robbiesd, I believe there is a Christmas sale as well....soon I suspect.
Just wanted to say that I have had two SA T1 saddles for about five years. Been riding for 35 years and have a dozen that didn't work hanging on my garage wall. Day one of the SA and it changed my cycling life forever. I've gained a bit of weight and now come in at 138lbs and even though the T series is rated at 120lbs max...they are both still working well for me. I just never think about my butt at all anymore.
However, it did take a bit of adjusting to get past the idea of saddles having to be level. What helped a lot with that was the purchase of a Thomson
seat post. These are two bolt posts that allow for easy micro adjusting and it is super easy to get the level exactly where you need it.
Last, I'd still like to try a Berthold saddle, even though they appear to act on a different principle....they are not a hammock design. However, I think the dark brown ones are just plain beautiful...and will probably give one a try just to satisfy my curiosity.
Just wanted to say that I have had two SA T1 saddles for about five years. Been riding for 35 years and have a dozen that didn't work hanging on my garage wall. Day one of the SA and it changed my cycling life forever. I've gained a bit of weight and now come in at 138lbs and even though the T series is rated at 120lbs max...they are both still working well for me. I just never think about my butt at all anymore.
However, it did take a bit of adjusting to get past the idea of saddles having to be level. What helped a lot with that was the purchase of a Thomson
seat post. These are two bolt posts that allow for easy micro adjusting and it is super easy to get the level exactly where you need it.
Last, I'd still like to try a Berthold saddle, even though they appear to act on a different principle....they are not a hammock design. However, I think the dark brown ones are just plain beautiful...and will probably give one a try just to satisfy my curiosity.
Last edited by smoore; 10-21-19 at 08:10 PM.
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Hi Smoore,
I'm new to serious riding (this past April) although I've owned a bike all my life. I bought an aluminum `96 GT Strike off CL which came with a double bolt design seat post and a Specialized Body Comp saddle that no matter what I did, it just hurt. Then I learned of sit bone width when I went for a fitting, that mine are 142mm and the Body Comp was 135mm. I found an older 145mm Selle Italia that has been good for the 40-60 mile rides I'm mostly doing but a couple of weeks ago I did my first century and got chaffed on my left side from the saddle edge. I agree, the double bolt design is easy to make fine adjustments on. I looked at the Thomson, I wish mine had a scale like they do but once it's adjusted one's not really playing with it anymore. I looked at the Bertholds, very similar. Thanks for introducing me to these products. I have a friend in San Diego who's 72% to his way towards 100 DC's and rides a Cambium. He told me of the SA's as he's thinking of changing to one - many of his DC buddies use them. I see in the thread that several have bought used SA's but I'm a little concerned that sellers may have over-stretched them or gotten them wet. I see two on eBay now from one seller which both show signs of rubbing on the rails near the nose and the X version adjustment is maxed out and as well they are mudded up so they may have gotten wet. To me they both need new covers so at his asking you'll end up spending more than new once you buy a new cover. I made him an offer over the weekend with a new cover in mind that put me invested $20 below new but he rejected it. Actually I'm glad he did as with SA's new site visitor discount I can buy a new one with a $20 savings. Since the Italia is working I'm not in a hurry to change, hence my asking when the annual sale is. Thanks for the tip, I'll watch the site over the holiday season. And I'd really like to avoid having a dozen hanging on the garage wall!
Robbie
I'm new to serious riding (this past April) although I've owned a bike all my life. I bought an aluminum `96 GT Strike off CL which came with a double bolt design seat post and a Specialized Body Comp saddle that no matter what I did, it just hurt. Then I learned of sit bone width when I went for a fitting, that mine are 142mm and the Body Comp was 135mm. I found an older 145mm Selle Italia that has been good for the 40-60 mile rides I'm mostly doing but a couple of weeks ago I did my first century and got chaffed on my left side from the saddle edge. I agree, the double bolt design is easy to make fine adjustments on. I looked at the Thomson, I wish mine had a scale like they do but once it's adjusted one's not really playing with it anymore. I looked at the Bertholds, very similar. Thanks for introducing me to these products. I have a friend in San Diego who's 72% to his way towards 100 DC's and rides a Cambium. He told me of the SA's as he's thinking of changing to one - many of his DC buddies use them. I see in the thread that several have bought used SA's but I'm a little concerned that sellers may have over-stretched them or gotten them wet. I see two on eBay now from one seller which both show signs of rubbing on the rails near the nose and the X version adjustment is maxed out and as well they are mudded up so they may have gotten wet. To me they both need new covers so at his asking you'll end up spending more than new once you buy a new cover. I made him an offer over the weekend with a new cover in mind that put me invested $20 below new but he rejected it. Actually I'm glad he did as with SA's new site visitor discount I can buy a new one with a $20 savings. Since the Italia is working I'm not in a hurry to change, hence my asking when the annual sale is. Thanks for the tip, I'll watch the site over the holiday season. And I'd really like to avoid having a dozen hanging on the garage wall!
Robbie
Last edited by robbiesd; 10-22-19 at 05:30 AM.
#218
Senior Member
I'm surprised that anyone with a new saddle isn't taking the required tools to make adjustments with them on the first few rides or until they are sure they have the saddle adjusted for themselves, however many rides that may be. Cutting a ride short for lack of tools or a sore butt is unnecessary.
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I found a deal on a used black Selle Anatomica X1 not long after these posts were made and am loving it. I would have bought a slotted Cambrium if a deal on one had come along first though.
Last edited by robbiesd; 03-16-20 at 04:54 AM.
#220
Senior Member
I put a Selle Anatomica on my Trek 520 based on the recommendation of two friends. It replaced a Brooks C17 Carved that I had bought based on the YouTube advice of a gentleman touring across Europe. They both are good. The Brooks is black and it probably weighs a bit more than the Selle Anatomica. The color of the Selle Anatomica goes better with the bike.
#221
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I put a Selle Anatomica on my Trek 520 based on the recommendation of two friends. It replaced a Brooks C17 Carved that I had bought based on the YouTube advice of a gentleman touring across Europe. They both are good. The Brooks is black and it probably weighs a bit more than the Selle Anatomica. The color of the Selle Anatomica goes better with the bike.
#222
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Gave H2 a Try
I was anxious to try an H2 as I am looking to ride long distance rides / brevets. I have used a variety of saddles and have recently put many miles on a Specialized Power Saddle and like it but was concerned it get a little solid and create sit bone ache. I have tried a Brooks Swift (never really broke in) and a Rivet (liked that saddle on another bike) but something I realized about leather is that I cannot move around on the saddle which I like. SA seems highly regarded for brevets. With the H2, my options seem to be tilt the nose down to move around but then I feel the slide forward many note and my arms are quite sore and tired as I have ridden 67 and 100 mile rides with this setup. When I tilt the nose up to prevent slide, I too find too much pressure on the groin and sometimes feel like I get caught on the high nose when sitting back down from out of the saddle. At mile 80, it felt like I was riding on the frame of the H2. I had already tightened it a few times to compensate for stretch. Looks like I only have 1/2" left of bolt and sides are flaring digging into thighs. I have put the Rivet Pearl on this bike and so far that seems to be giving me range of motion and good fore aft placement. I am exploring the lacing for H2, but I suspect I might not be an SA person.
#223
Senior Member
The Selle Anatomica feels fine, but the Brooks C17 Carved also felt fine.
Whatever saddle you buy, don't discard it after the first ride if it doesn't feel right. Saddles typically take several rides to become broken in.
Whatever saddle you buy, don't discard it after the first ride if it doesn't feel right. Saddles typically take several rides to become broken in.
#224
Senior Member
I have an ISM PN 1.1 on my triathlon bike. It looks like a torture device, but it is actually very comfortable. The key thing is to sit on the nose of the saddle with the boys forward of the tip. Perhaps it wouldn't work as well when riding in the more upright position of a mountain bike or city bike.
#225
Senior Member
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I was anxious to try an H2 as I am looking to ride long distance rides / brevets. I have used a variety of saddles and have recently put many miles on a Specialized Power Saddle and like it but was concerned it get a little solid and create sit bone ache. I have tried a Brooks Swift (never really broke in) and a Rivet (liked that saddle on another bike) but something I realized about leather is that I cannot move around on the saddle which I like. SA seems highly regarded for brevets. With the H2, my options seem to be tilt the nose down to move around but then I feel the slide forward many note and my arms are quite sore and tired as I have ridden 67 and 100 mile rides with this setup. When I tilt the nose up to prevent slide, I too find too much pressure on the groin and sometimes feel like I get caught on the high nose when sitting back down from out of the saddle. At mile 80, it felt like I was riding on the frame of the H2. I had already tightened it a few times to compensate for stretch. Looks like I only have 1/2" left of bolt and sides are flaring digging into thighs. I have put the Rivet Pearl on this bike and so far that seems to be giving me range of motion and good fore aft placement. I am exploring the lacing for H2, but I suspect I might not be an SA person.
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Last edited by GeezyRider; 03-20-20 at 08:03 AM. Reason: spelling