Capo72

I don't know whether you would consider them good or not, but my last wheel build was Light Bicycle disc specific carbon hoops with Chris King R45 Disc hubs, and Sapim CX Ray spokes for just under $1200.


Cost no object I would buy the Lightweights, then probably Zipp 454 NSW.

Seattle Forrest

Sounds like you have a good reason for that. Honestly, I didn't realize how big a limitation tubeless-tires-only was when I bought my wheels. I mean there's great tubeless rubber, but far and away less choice. I'm still very happy with the wheels, but completely understand your reasoning.

Enve is well regarded because they're very fast, and very well built. Strong, too, and I'm a heavier rider by road standards.

Ardennes are really nice, too.

ridingfool

Can't say much about the high end wheelsets but I do own a set of the he'd Ardennes plus and I'm s bigger rider at 230 lbs great set of wheels for only a thousand bucks 10 thousand miles later and stil as true as day one

kbarch

That's what I was thinking, too.

Yes, it's kind of funny to say "cost is no object" when in the end, it IS (getting a new bike in the bargain if necessary to get the most ideal wheels), but it is fair to stipulate practical considerations other than the cost of the thing itself.

Jiggle

CX75 hub with Dura Ace ti freehub, cx rays, the Venn 35mm clincher rims. I like the look of their weave.

I'm easy to please.

Doge

Cheap alloy.
As when cost is no object I don't buy clinchers or disc brake wheels.

dmanthree

OK for you, but my bike seems to like discs. I think it's the lack of caliper brakes that's the reason.

dmanthree

It was just a curiosity question, nothing more. Of course, in reality cost is *always* a consideration for me. But asking a question like this can be interesting since there's lots of stuff out there I didn't know existed. Like the Lightweight brand wheels. Clearly out of my price range, but pretty interesting nonetheless.

CliffordK

Don't forget Zipp discs for the rear

Zipp also makes some unique front wheels too.

fietsbob

Id build them rather than buy something with proprietary parts ..

My current front hub. Schmidt Delux Dynohub , 3 cross 32 hole.. it is a Centerlock disc.

Rear Hub 32 hole Rohloff , they use a 4 bolt disc, 65 mm, uses chain ring bolts

(but its close enough to allow a 64mm chain ring to work too, some builders used the hub as a mid drive)


I ride the bike on the road, so it counts..





....

Doge

When cost is no object you change the frame - and get the right brakes to fit the wheels.

dmanthree

OK, but if go down that road, you'd never need to buy upgraded wheels in the first place, right?

dmanthree

How do you like the Rohloff hub? I've never ridden one. Fat bike?

Doge

Things change and application changes. There are always new things to buy.
I grew up around dirt roads and the idea that one could ride on pavement seemed like a final thing for me. Why would anyone ride dirt? Well, as civilization moves one, road racing now has dirt, mud. There is MTB, cross, snow/fat...

But there are some things I have that are very old and still very good. My kid will be racing a Pro TT on a tri-spoke carbon wheel made about 20 years ago. Is it as good as the latest HED - likely not. But maybe. I own a disc (no spoke kind) that only takes a 10speed cassette. It also works pretty good too. There are pros and cons to all this.

For pavement, without grit (as in rain/snow) cost no object and ax-lightness is superior to anything I've owned (Zipp, HED, Nimble, Easton, Mercury - 20-30 carbon, 50 or so alloy wheels). An 800g set is pretty cool. I got one set this year, I'll likely get a disc set next year - for cross. But as I said, for road, I just wouldn't do disc or clincher if money was no object. But it usually is.

WhyFi

Mileage varies, obv. If cost were no object for me, I'd still have a bike that takes discs.

Doge

Like many threads we don't define what better is before we all go about saying what is better.
I could see living in certain places, weather, terrain where I might choose a bike that takes discs. But I don't live in those places and brakes to me are things that need to work real well, but are not used much at all.

I have started riding 50mm profile carbon clinchers with latex tubes and supple tires for convenience. Because they are almost as good as tubulars I've ridden for years and glue for my kid. But if money were no object I'd be on the tubulars and have someone bring me a new one every flat. Junior had that luxury up until he didn't live at home. For a given weight, on a dry road, requiring minimal braking the "best" tubular setup with rim brakes will accelerate/decelerate faster, take higher g corners, and be less likely to fail than a clincher disc.

Then there is the support part/what to do if there is a problem. If you always go solo, a non issue. If you ride with others where sometimes someone carries support stuff, it matters. This week I was at cross nats in Reno and got talking to the Shimano guy. He had spares in disc with 3 rotor sizes, 2 through axle sizes and QR (9 permutation for disc), and then QR rim brakes - 1 option. If "best" means also how to most likely get support, that is a factor too. At big events, the big support company might have 100 wheels (about what Shimano had in Reno). At smaller fondo, group fun rides etc. it is nice to have something that can be supported by two wheels on the back of a scooter.

fietsbob

No, fat rider.. Bike Friday Pocket Llama, disc, with Trekking bars , a Touring bike that folds into a suitcase
to fly to tours..
works better in 406-47 wheels than in larger..

even deeper within the 2.35:1 low gear minimum, than the 16: 38 for 26"

same range is 16:53.. turning the 20" wheel..

IGH advantage gear changes at any speed , even stopped, with an ever so slight coasting.. gears in an oil coated clean environment..



Although, If you want a Fat bike they now have an extra wide hub model for those drivetrains ..

https://www.rohloff.de/en/products/speedhub/variant

aclass

This is probably a stupid question and I hope it's okay to be a rookie but when looking to upgrade wheels, what do you look for to ensure they'll fit your existing bike other than the size?

Danny01

Lighweight Meilenstein C Disc
Enve, WI CLD, Sapim CX-Ray
Zipp 454 NSW

But being a disc build, I'd do Far sports rims, WI CLD hubs and Sapim CX Rays cause cost matters.

I dig the Ti body on the WI hubs. It prevents notching from putting down massive power. Bearings are smooth and roll forever.

topslop1

Did you have Light Bicycle put the whole build together or did you grab the parts individually and build yourself or have someone else build up ?

Capo72

I just ordered the hoops from Light Bicycle. I ordered the rest of the parts from my LBS and they built them up for me. It was about a 6 week long process.

Silvercivic27

Lightweights all day

joejack951

No one has mentioned these so I'll add them to the mix: ax-lightness: Ultra Disc 28C

You can get a lot lighter if you run tubular tires, or a lot cheaper for similar weight using Bitex hubs and Farsports as I plan to do.

02Giant 

It's a braggart thing.

kbarch

Can I just say: if cost was no object, I still wouldn't go out of my way to find "the best." I don't mean to downplay their importance, but they just don't excite me that much. Give me competitive weight, a quiet hub and good looks and I'm happy. I guess it it was REALLY no object, I'd just get all the ones that looked interesting and try them all out, and have the guys at the shop swap them out regularly.