Thumpic

I don't understand.....I've searched for info to no avail. I have a Giant rigid mtb. The bike is on it back. I install the rear wheel completely into the frame...the wheel spins a straight as an arrow; no wobbles and parallel (to my eye) to the centerline of the bike. But it is significantly closer to the non-dérailleur side of the frame at the seat post. It doesn't rub; but another 8th of an inch and it would. I removed it to grease the bearings...........any ideas????

Al1943

This is often due to the wheel being out of dish (rim is off-centered). You can reverse the wheel on the bike and see if the rim moves toward the other side. If this is the problem you can adjust the spokes to re-center the rim.
Since you've just greased the bearings, are you sure you got the spacers, if any, and the lock nuts back in the correct place?

Al

waterrockets 

The wheel is out of dish. In under-tensioned factory-built wheels, this is common. You need to dish the wheel (or have it dished) by tightening all the drive-side spokes.

Check here for details: https://sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html

HillRider

This is the most likely cause. I'd check the hub's spacers, washers and locknuts to see if one or more are in the wrong place. Did you remove the cones and locknuts from both sides when you overhauled the wheel? If so, it's quite possible something got reassembled out of order.

Thumpic

...........no I was careful NOT to do that; the drive side is in the original spot.....so it must've been wrong from the start....this is a thrift store bike so I have no history with it.........

DMF 

I had exactly the same problem with a '92 Ross ($100 new). The wheel was dead on but would not center to the frame. Turns out the rear triangle itself was crooked - one dropout slightly higher than the other. The only solutions involved welding and re-chroming, and the bike wasn't worth it even when straight.

Are you sure this bike ever had the wheel perfectly aligned?

Thumpic

so in thinking this thru.................. Correct me if I'm wrong...
1. I place a straightedge in the drop outs......
2. This should be 90 degrees to the seat tube.....
3. If it isn't; I have a bent triangle....
4. If it is....I need to dish the wheel.............

reverborama

The dropouts need to be centered and parallel to each other. I have the tools measure and repair this but they are a little spendy. Most LBS's should be able to do it for you for cheap.

https://www.amazon.com/FFG-1-Frame-Fo.../dp/B000MLD7FM

and

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product-P...auge-15071.htm

(Park Tool site seems to be down)

Al1943

Have you tried reversing the wheel on the bike to see if the rim moves toward the other side (as suggested before)? It would be easier to do this on a truing stand.

Thumpic

.........I'm not sure what this would prove; unless I'm missing some point.......it's obvious to me that it would have the same issue; only on the other side.........right??...or am I missing the WAY obvious..........

tzracer

If you flip the wheel and it ends up in the same location, then the wheel is centered but the frame the problem.

If you flip the wheel and it is off center in the opposite direction, then the wheel needs to be re-dished.

Thumpic

OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOKKK...essentially the same thing I was going to do with the straightedge and a square.....gotcha.......thanks!!!!!

well biked

Exactly. That would be the first thing I'd do. Easy, too-

Al1943

The obvious is that if the frame is bent the rim will be too close to the same side regardless of which way you mount the wheel. If with the wheel mounted backwards the rim moves toward the oposite side then the problem is the wheel (probably out of dish) not the frame.

Thumpic

I'm hoping for a bad wheel; but I gotta' bad feeling............................oh well I've only got 8 bucks in it........and I'm learning..........

Thumpic

The frame is bent..........but I checked out the threads and it seems like most folks just manhandle 'em back into shape...cromo frames that is. It looks as if the non-drive triangle is just pushed out; but I assume the other must have moved as well (algebra). So I'll slowly bend 'em both until the tire lines up.........right?......2x4 through the triangle and use the seat post as the fulcrum**********???

bcart1991

I would take it to the LBS.

I had a dropout/hanger realigned and it only cost me $20. Better to get it done right, they'll have the proper tools to fix it right the first time.

well biked

If you do it yourself, read the part about checking alignment with a string in Sheldon's article on cold setting. If you take your time and are careful with what you're doing, it's effective, at least it has been for me. The first thing you need to do is check the alignment so you can see how much the alignment is off to begin with, then move each side the appropriate amount, rechecking alignment often, as you work-

https://sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html

Thumpic

I did not realize there was an article (I shoulda known!)..............my plan was:

1. Hang frame....use plumb bob to find centerline from steering tube through seat post (after using straight edge on top tube to verify straightness).
2. Using original axle length; verify how far each triangle is out from centerline.
3. Bolt frame to shop floor DEAD LEVEL along the centerline.
4. Using a jack and pry bars; bend the triangles to correct positions....

I am anxious to read the article and see how far off I am from the "Professor's" way,,,,,,,,,,

Thanks for all the input!!!!

Thumpic

I wasn't even particularly close; I stand humbled....................but ENCOURAGED!!

canklecat

Old thread, but bumping because it helped me this week. I noticed some difficulties aligning a replacement rear wheel with 7-speed freewheel hub in a frame that originally came with an 8-speed cassette freehub. For some reason the penny didn't drop with my brain for a few weeks, and I kept forcing the wheel slightly askew in the dropouts just to be sure it appeared centered between the chainstays.





This meant the wheel was actually slightly out of alignment. But the contact patch is so small it didn't matter much. Still, it bugged me.





The coin finally dropped last night -- the replacement wheel wasn't designed for this bike. D'oh!





This thread came up first. And this simple 2-minute video made the process quick and clear. I made one-quarter turn adjustments on every spoke on one side, checked the wheel when fully inserted into the dropouts and... perfect. After a test ride I'll tweak any minor truing issues. But the dishing process took about 2 minutes.