Lever vs allen bolt thru axles
#26
Full Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Prince Edward Island, Canada
Posts: 311
Bikes: '23 Devinci Hatchet Carbon Apex1 '19 Norco Bigfoot 6.1 ,'12 Motobecane Turino (killed by dog crash), '12 Trek 3700 Disc
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 149 Post(s)
Liked 128 Times
in
74 Posts
My new bike is the only one I've ever had with TA.
The TAs have handles that pull out from inside the TAs so they look clean with no protruding handles while not requiring any tools to remove/install.
Can't say I have a preference as these are the only ones I've ever had and haven't even used them yet. lol
One weird thing is that my forks have a "blind hole" on the drive side - from the drive side there is no visible axle component.
The TAs have handles that pull out from inside the TAs so they look clean with no protruding handles while not requiring any tools to remove/install.
Can't say I have a preference as these are the only ones I've ever had and haven't even used them yet. lol
One weird thing is that my forks have a "blind hole" on the drive side - from the drive side there is no visible axle component.
#27
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 7,887
Mentioned: 38 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6972 Post(s)
Liked 10,970 Times
in
4,692 Posts
It would be funny if it weren't so sad: for decades bikes have had q/r front and rear, and tire removal/re-installation was a no brainer. You are seriously telling me that in the 21st Century, cyclists once again need a (allen) wrench to remove wheels, like in the (bad) old days of threaded axles? Just say it ain't so!
Last edited by Koyote; 05-19-23 at 07:59 AM.
Likes For Koyote:
#28
Over the hill
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 24,376
Bikes: Giant Defy, Giant Revolt
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 998 Post(s)
Liked 1,206 Times
in
692 Posts
Sounds like the TA still provided the bigger weight savings.
__________________
It's like riding a bicycle
It's like riding a bicycle
#29
I'm good to go!
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 14,992
Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020
Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6196 Post(s)
Liked 4,811 Times
in
3,319 Posts
I thought I'd miss the old quick release skewer's we had before thru-axles. My last new bike came with just a plain thru-axle that you have to use a allen key. Prior to purchasing it I thought for certain I wanted to get one of the thru-axles with the lever. However 3 years later I just simply have not ever been inconvenienced by not having QR's or a thru-axle with a lever. It's too quick and easy to to get the hex key from my bike bag under the seat or out of the tool box drawer when in the shop(garage).
And aesthetically the looks are more pleasing without the lever.
And aesthetically the looks are more pleasing without the lever.
Likes For Iride01:
#30
Habitual User
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Altadena, CA
Posts: 7,997
Bikes: 2023 Niner RLT 9 RDO, 2018 Trek Procaliber 9.9 RSL, 2018 Storck Fascenario.3 Platinum, 2003 Time VX Special Pro, 2001 Colnago VIP, 1999 Trek 9900 singlespeed, 1977 Nishiki ONP
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4957 Post(s)
Liked 8,099 Times
in
3,833 Posts
I want to find a different solution for the lever TAs on my gravel bike. On the opposite end of the lever, there is a knob for adjusting the clamping tension. It works great, and I like having the lever for efficient removal and reinstallation. However, the internal mechanical parts rattle, and it's annoying.
On this bike, I would prefer to stick with a lever on the front. Maybe at both ends. Recommendations?
On this bike, I would prefer to stick with a lever on the front. Maybe at both ends. Recommendations?
__________________
"Swedish fish. They're protein shaped." - livedarklions
"Swedish fish. They're protein shaped." - livedarklions
#31
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 7,887
Mentioned: 38 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6972 Post(s)
Liked 10,970 Times
in
4,692 Posts
I want to find a different solution for the lever TAs on my gravel bike. On the opposite end of the lever, there is a knob for adjusting the clamping tension. It works great, and I like having the lever for efficient removal and reinstallation. However, the internal mechanical parts rattle, and it's annoying.
On this bike, I would prefer to stick with a lever on the front. Maybe at both ends. Recommendations?
On this bike, I would prefer to stick with a lever on the front. Maybe at both ends. Recommendations?
Likes For Koyote:
#32
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2022
Location: USA - Southwest PA
Posts: 3,100
Bikes: Cannondale - Gary Fisher - Giant - Litespeed - Schwinn Paramount - Schwinn (lugged steel) - Trek OCLV
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1401 Post(s)
Liked 1,886 Times
in
1,085 Posts
Originally Posted by Eric F
Recommendations?
DT RWS thru axle ?
more an option than recommendation - because I have not used the RWS axle for thru axles ... (I have used the DT RWS skewers however)
Recommendations?
DT RWS thru axle ?
more an option than recommendation - because I have not used the RWS axle for thru axles ... (I have used the DT RWS skewers however)
Likes For t2p:
#33
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 6,763
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1109 Post(s)
Liked 1,200 Times
in
760 Posts
There are (were?) issues with QR and discs, where, as I understand it, the contact point of the braking on the disc could cause the axle to loosen or even eject from the dropout. Partially from the forces from the brakes near the axle as opposed to the rim, and partially from the QRs not being strong enough or applied strong enough. That's just what I've read; no personal experience except with more current disc/QR designs ...
Hmmm, seems more like user error, to me. We (my wife and I) have been riding a tandem with disks and QR axles for about 10 years, and I have the front wheel on and off frequently to get it on the rack. I've never had a problem with the axle loosening under braking. The dropouts are standard vertical, not the forward facing ones (front).
However, I am looking forward to my new (single) bike, which will have disk brakes and a through axle, because I have noticed a little bit of fork flex/chatter during braking on the tandem. (It's noticeable, but not annoying and certainly not dangerous.) Suppo're sedly one of the advantages of the through axle set-up is that it reduces/eliminates fork flex under braking.
However, I am looking forward to my new (single) bike, which will have disk brakes and a through axle, because I have noticed a little bit of fork flex/chatter during braking on the tandem. (It's noticeable, but not annoying and certainly not dangerous.) Suppo're sedly one of the advantages of the through axle set-up is that it reduces/eliminates fork flex under braking.
#34
Senior Member
I bought my first new bike since 1987 5 years ago. My first one with QR axles and seat post. My first thought was that makes too easy to steal the wheels (especially the front) and the seat. Since I don't take off my seat or adjust it often the dealer installed a bolt clamp.
Once I understood how to tighten these QR axles I'm quite content with them. And I do lock the bike and front wheel sometimes. But i do wonder how strong they are. 5 mm isn't much steel .
Once I understood how to tighten these QR axles I'm quite content with them. And I do lock the bike and front wheel sometimes. But i do wonder how strong they are. 5 mm isn't much steel .
#35
Habitual User
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Altadena, CA
Posts: 7,997
Bikes: 2023 Niner RLT 9 RDO, 2018 Trek Procaliber 9.9 RSL, 2018 Storck Fascenario.3 Platinum, 2003 Time VX Special Pro, 2001 Colnago VIP, 1999 Trek 9900 singlespeed, 1977 Nishiki ONP
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4957 Post(s)
Liked 8,099 Times
in
3,833 Posts
I bought my first new bike since 1987 5 years ago. My first one with QR axles and seat post. My first thought was that makes too easy to steal the wheels (especially the front) and the seat. Since I don't take off my seat or adjust it often the dealer installed a bolt clamp.
Once I understood how to tighten these QR axles I'm quite content with them. And I do lock the bike and front wheel sometimes. But i do wonder how strong they are. 5 mm isn't much steel .
Once I understood how to tighten these QR axles I'm quite content with them. And I do lock the bike and front wheel sometimes. But i do wonder how strong they are. 5 mm isn't much steel .
__________________
"Swedish fish. They're protein shaped." - livedarklions
"Swedish fish. They're protein shaped." - livedarklions
Likes For Eric F:
#36
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 6,763
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1109 Post(s)
Liked 1,200 Times
in
760 Posts
I bought my first new bike since 1987 5 years ago. My first one with QR axles and seat post. My first thought was that makes too easy to steal the wheels (especially the front) and the seat. Since I don't take off my seat or adjust it often the dealer installed a bolt clamp.
Once I understood how to tighten these QR axles I'm quite content with them. And I do lock the bike and front wheel sometimes. But i do wonder how strong they are. 5 mm isn't much steel .
Once I understood how to tighten these QR axles I'm quite content with them. And I do lock the bike and front wheel sometimes. But i do wonder how strong they are. 5 mm isn't much steel .
Likes For Camilo:
#37
Over the hill
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 24,376
Bikes: Giant Defy, Giant Revolt
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 998 Post(s)
Liked 1,206 Times
in
692 Posts
I thought I'd miss the old quick release skewer's we had before thru-axles. My last new bike came with just a plain thru-axle that you have to use a allen key. Prior to purchasing it I thought for certain I wanted to get one of the thru-axles with the lever. However 3 years later I just simply have not ever been inconvenienced by not having QR's or a thru-axle with a lever. It's too quick and easy to to get the hex key from my bike bag under the seat or out of the tool box drawer when in the shop(garage).
And that's the one thins making me consider replacing the lever ones instead, although I can't tell exactly what size I need (I know I have 12x100 and 12x142, but they seem to vary in overall length and thread length). I could probably just measure mine, but that would require, you know, effort.
__________________
It's like riding a bicycle
It's like riding a bicycle
#38
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Far beyond the pale horizon.
Posts: 14,278
Mentioned: 31 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4260 Post(s)
Liked 1,364 Times
in
945 Posts
I bought my first new bike since 1987 5 years ago. My first one with QR axles and seat post. My first thought was that makes too easy to steal the wheels (especially the front) and the seat. Since I don't take off my seat or adjust it often the dealer installed a bolt clamp.
Once I understood how to tighten these QR axles I'm quite content with them. And I do lock the bike and front wheel sometimes. But i do wonder how strong they are. 5 mm isn't much steel .
Once I understood how to tighten these QR axles I'm quite content with them. And I do lock the bike and front wheel sometimes. But i do wonder how strong they are. 5 mm isn't much steel .
Likes For njkayaker:
#39
Senior Member
I thought the QR skewers where under a lot of stress. I never paid much attention to them, But just Googled them for a more detailed look. I understand more about them now and feel more comfortable with them. Thanks.
Also most the stress on the axle is on the outside, So with a sufficient wall thickness little strength is lost if we bore a small hole in the center for the skewer.
Also most the stress on the axle is on the outside, So with a sufficient wall thickness little strength is lost if we bore a small hole in the center for the skewer.
Last edited by xroadcharlie; 05-20-23 at 07:41 AM.
#41
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Eastern VA
Posts: 1,726
Bikes: 2022 Fuel EX 8, 2021 Domane SL6, Black Beta (Nashbar frame), 2004 Trek 1000C for the trainer
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 271 Post(s)
Liked 447 Times
in
266 Posts
I have to admit I have two for my Domane. I screwed up the threads on the the rear thru-axle the first week. The axle still worked but I could feel the messed up threads. I panicked and bought a new thru-axle from Trek which came with a handle/lever.
I just noticed I don't see the icon to insert emojis in the computer browser like on the phone browser.
#42
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2022
Location: USA - Southwest PA
Posts: 3,100
Bikes: Cannondale - Gary Fisher - Giant - Litespeed - Schwinn Paramount - Schwinn (lugged steel) - Trek OCLV
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1401 Post(s)
Liked 1,886 Times
in
1,085 Posts
That's pretty much how I feel. It just wasn't enough of an issue to go out and buy new ones.
And that's the one thins making me consider replacing the lever ones instead, although I can't tell exactly what size I need (I know I have 12x100 and 12x142, but they seem to vary in overall length and thread length). I could probably just measure mine, but that would require, you know, effort.
And that's the one thins making me consider replacing the lever ones instead, although I can't tell exactly what size I need (I know I have 12x100 and 12x142, but they seem to vary in overall length and thread length). I could probably just measure mine, but that would require, you know, effort.
of course - always a good idea to pull the axle and determine if the specs are printed on the axle
(gotta be diligent - some bikes use different thread / pitch on front and rear ... i.e. 1.5 thread on front, 1.0 thread on rear)
Last edited by t2p; 05-20-23 at 10:21 AM.
Likes For t2p:
#43
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Mich
Posts: 7,395
Bikes: RSO E-tire dropper fixie brifter
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked 2,979 Times
in
1,920 Posts
Clean looks good imo. I would like to have a TA, seat post hardware, stem cap bolt, & stem bracket bolts to use the same size allen key.
that's asking too much.
that's asking too much.
__________________
-Oh Hey!
-Oh Hey!
#44
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 8,451
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4416 Post(s)
Liked 4,871 Times
in
3,015 Posts
They are different sized threads and therefore different fastening torque. A 4 mm Allen key for a TA is too small and would risk rounding off at the correct torque.
#45
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Mich
Posts: 7,395
Bikes: RSO E-tire dropper fixie brifter
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked 2,979 Times
in
1,920 Posts
it wouldn't "round" out if the depth was far enough for the key to go into the head for the aforementioned hardware. Also, the torque values are not thar extreme in the grand scheme of things.
__________________
-Oh Hey!
-Oh Hey!
#46
Senior Member
I have LAD's ("Leverage Application Devices") on my Surly Disc Trucker. I like them because I can do an easy quick-check on tightness before each ride.
--
--
Last edited by drlogik; 05-20-23 at 02:15 PM.
Likes For mattcalifornia:
#48
Randomhead
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Happy Valley, Pennsylvania
Posts: 24,399
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked 3,699 Times
in
2,519 Posts
All the TA bikes I have with QR-style cams are really awkward to actuate. There is always some trick required to unthread them. I fail to fully understand why making it more difficult makes it safer, I think the opposite is true. It seems like on production bike TA's with a hex head are winning. I always carry a multi-tool in the same bag as the tube, so it's no big deal. And with tubeless, flats are a lot less frequent.
Likes For unterhausen:
#49
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 8,451
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4416 Post(s)
Liked 4,871 Times
in
3,015 Posts
I get the availability of why, but it would require an engineer to hybrid hardware thread designs to match a single head key size.
it wouldn't "round" out if the depth was far enough for the key to go into the head for the aforementioned hardware. Also, the torque values are not thar extreme in the grand scheme of things.
it wouldn't "round" out if the depth was far enough for the key to go into the head for the aforementioned hardware. Also, the torque values are not thar extreme in the grand scheme of things.
#50
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Mich
Posts: 7,395
Bikes: RSO E-tire dropper fixie brifter
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked 2,979 Times
in
1,920 Posts
make it all 6mm then, it doesn't matter as long as they're accepting the same key head.
__________________
-Oh Hey!
-Oh Hey!