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BB30 query - which creaks less?

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Old 01-15-19, 03:42 PM
  #1  
masi61
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BB30 query - which creaks less?

i’m Building up an NOS Cannondale CAAD9 BB30 frameset and would like to run 24mm cranks preferably.

or, not... I started looking at BB30 Cannondale Hollowgram cranks with the 30mm spindle and they appear very well built.

I want to install a bottom bracket that is not going to creak. I was wondering if it matters if you run the 30mm axle cranks or if 24 mm cranks are OK and noise free as well?

Thanks for any insights you could provide to the conversation....
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Old 01-15-19, 04:04 PM
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I think these guys have a thread together bottom bracket for your Cannondale. I have installed one on my bike with a pressfit bb and so far no noises.

https://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-brackets.html
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Old 01-15-19, 05:08 PM
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Just put a Wheels Mfg. threaded bracket in my Cervelo, replacing the factory Rotor PF30. Strongly recommend. Once that threaded housing is in, you're set. You can just replace the bearings, which are as little as 3 bucks each.

I don't think spindle size will have any impact on the potential for creaking-- just with a 24mm hole instead of a 30mm hole, the bearings will (maybe?) last longer.
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Old 01-15-19, 05:25 PM
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I went with a Praxis BB for my Specialized. Dead silent perfect.
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Old 01-15-19, 05:42 PM
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Praxis Conversion and Enduro Torqtite both eliminate pressing and will not creak.
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Old 01-16-19, 12:38 AM
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I'm of the mind that if your frame has a BB30 shell, make the most of it with a BB30 crank. Lighter, stiffer, and the main thing is, heel clearance that's been missing since external bearings became a thing.
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Old 01-16-19, 07:17 PM
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Run the BB30 crank.
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Old 01-16-19, 07:53 PM
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I second using a BB30 crank. Be careful when installing the bearings though. Imperfections on the BB shell and/or the bearings not sitting squarely due to imroper installation can cause the crank to creak especially under power (hard efforts). It is recommended to use a retaining compound like Loctite 672 to prevent movement.
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Old 01-16-19, 10:39 PM
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FWIW I recently installed an FSA Megaevo 30mm spindle/BB and unlike the 24mm I was accustomed to which is slip fit in the bearings,
ie the spindle just slides easily through the bearings, I found the 30mm spindle was a force fit. Looking on various sites I came across the
suggestion to put the spindle/crank in the freezer for 30-60 minutes and it will slide in easily (called shrink-fit by the bearing people). It
worked a treat. Based on the tighter fit I would predict a bit less likelihood of creak with the 30 over the 24. YMMV

Of course eventual removal of the 30mm will require some persuasion.
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Old 01-16-19, 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by sch
... I found the 30mm spindle was a force fit. [...] Based on the tighter fit I would predict a bit less likelihood of creak with the 30 over the 24.
The creaking is caused by the bearings' outer race moving against the inside face of the BB shell which it is not supposed to do.
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Old 01-17-19, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by caloso
I went with a Praxis BB for my Specialized. Dead silent perfect.
I should add that my Specialized came with a perfectly fine FSA BB30 crankset, but I wanted to use my Quarq which is built on a SRAM crankset with a 24/22mm spindle. If you don't have a compelling reason to put a 24 or 22mm crankset, it probably makes more sense to keep the BB330 crankset.
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Old 03-18-19, 10:20 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by DrIsotope
Just put a Wheels Mfg. threaded bracket in my Cervelo, replacing the factory Rotor PF30. Strongly recommend. Once that threaded housing is in, you're set. You can just replace the bearings, which are as little as 3 bucks each.

I don't think spindle size will have any impact on the potential for creaking-- just with a 24mm hole instead of a 30mm hole, the bearings will (maybe?) last longer.
Hey Doc, I have a Wheels Mfg BB in my Niner, last few weeks I've been getting some creaking. Pulled out the crankset last night and found the external nuts were pretty loose, the whole assembly easily spun in the frame. So I tightened it up, probably a good 1/2 turn. How tight should these be installed? I didn't see any torque specs on their website. I will give it a test ride tomorrow morning to see if it is quiet again. I've had the bike 13 months, maybe 3,000 miles, never touched it before and have no idea how tight the LBS set it when they assembled the bike. Bearings seem brand new, no play & smooth.
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Old 03-18-19, 12:23 PM
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Like Loc Tite for bolts there is sealed bearing seating compounds.. to apply during assembly..


seek out a sealed bearing with a 24mm ID and what ever your frame is for the OD

I assume you have a taste for press fit frames...

Industrial Standard number codes; the bearings have ID, OD and thickness dimensions..






...

Last edited by fietsbob; 03-18-19 at 12:29 PM.
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Old 03-18-19, 01:52 PM
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Install manual says 35nm-50nm, which is a helluva range. I went for 45nm on the wrench. So far so good.
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Old 03-18-19, 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by DrIsotope
Install manual says 35nm-50nm, which is a helluva range. I went for 45nm on the wrench. So far so good.
Indeed. I don't have a torque wrench for stuff at this level (yet), but good to know there's no chance I overdid it! Thanks.
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Old 03-18-19, 06:28 PM
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Related-unrelated, I just regreased the English-threaded FSA BB6000 on my Ritchey and the stamped torque spec is 45nm. Torque for the FSA Gossamer crank arm, a bizarre 41nm.
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Old 03-19-19, 11:07 AM
  #17  
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I just got back from a ride, my Niner with the Wheels Mfg BB is SILENT again. Oh happy day!
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