bottle cage bolts on aluminum frame won't come out
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Saratoga calif.
Posts: 1,049
Bikes: Miyata 610(66cm), GT Vantara Hybrid (64cm), Nishiki International (64cm), Peugeot rat rod (62 cm), Trek 800 Burning Man helicopter bike, Bob Jackson frame (to be restored?) plus a never ending stream of neglected waifs from the Bike exchange.
Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 339 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 632 Times
in
229 Posts
bottle cage bolts on aluminum frame won't come out
I just brought home an aluminum frame Univega road bike . It has mounts for 2 bottle cages .The bolts for both are frozen in the frame . There is some kind of insert in the aluminum that is threaded that the bolts screw into. When trying to remove the bolt the insert just rotates in the aluminum tube.
Any idea how I can get the bolts out?
I thought of trying to drill the bolt out but that would probably just ruin the threads of the insert.
Could I drill out the insert too? If so can I get new inserts?
Any idea how I can get the bolts out?
I thought of trying to drill the bolt out but that would probably just ruin the threads of the insert.
Could I drill out the insert too? If so can I get new inserts?
#2
Old fart
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,784
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3587 Post(s)
Liked 3,400 Times
in
1,934 Posts
"Rivnut" threaded inserts are typically used as bottle mounts on aluminum frames. You may need to pull the whole thing out and replace it with a new Rivnut. Many bike shops have the tools needed to do this. Take care to lubricate the bolt threads when you install your bottle holder so they don't seize again.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,070
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4198 Post(s)
Liked 3,850 Times
in
2,300 Posts
This has been covered many times here, loose RivNuts. First step is to understand fully the situation and then try non destructive methods before pulling out power tools. What is the access to the tubes' insides? The seat tube is a no brainer but what about the DT? If you do drill out the RivNuts the inner portion will fall into the tube. Will it sit there for ever being a source for rattles or can it be fished out via a vent hole? Have you tried to soak a penetrant into the frozen fittings yet? Using a tiny screwdriver's end pushed under the RivNut's lip can sometimes keep the RivNut from turning while the bolt is loosened. Drilling the fitting out will take some focus and care. You have a fairly hard bolt (and likely stainless steel, not that the material didn't become corroded corrode in place) and a fairly soft RivNut as well as frame. Patience is your friend. Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
AndrewRStewart
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: 25 miles northwest of Boston
Posts: 29,549
Bikes: Bottecchia Sprint, GT Timberline 29r, Marin Muirwoods 29er, Trek FX Alpha 7.0
Mentioned: 112 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5224 Post(s)
Liked 3,581 Times
in
2,342 Posts
fwiw ~ you can leave them alone & mount bottle cages with other methods
#5
Senior Member
This has been covered many times here, loose RivNuts. First step is to understand fully the situation and then try non destructive methods before pulling out power tools. What is the access to the tubes' insides? The seat tube is a no brainer but what about the DT? If you do drill out the RivNuts the inner portion will fall into the tube. Will it sit there for ever being a source for rattles or can it be fished out via a vent hole? Have you tried to soak a penetrant into the frozen fittings yet? Using a tiny screwdriver's end pushed under the RivNut's lip can sometimes keep the RivNut from turning while the bolt is loosened. Drilling the fitting out will take some focus and care. You have a fairly hard bolt (and likely stainless steel, not that the material didn't become corroded corrode in place) and a fairly soft RivNut as well as frame. Patience is your friend. Andy
You can try to put a few drops of gap-filling retaining compound (commonly sold as a 'green' threadlocker) or thick superglue (available from hobby shops) between the gap, and wick it in by spinning the insert. After it cures, it may be enough hold to allow you to remove the screw, and properly re-set the rivnut.
#6
Full Member
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Denver Colorado
Posts: 339
Bikes: 2020 Pivot Vault, 1983 Rossin Record, Garneau R1, Mesamods home built gravel/rain commuter bike, 1995 Barracuda A2V modified with Surley single speed dropouts, 1969 Bottecchia junkyard special fixed gear, Cervelo P4, Mesamods 650b klunker
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 96 Post(s)
Liked 72 Times
in
50 Posts
Maybe try to heat the bolts up a little with a blow dryer or a heat gun if the bolts have a strong loctite on them. If they just won't budge, removing and replacing the rivnuts is not too difficult. I made a video a year or so ago showing the process.
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Saratoga calif.
Posts: 1,049
Bikes: Miyata 610(66cm), GT Vantara Hybrid (64cm), Nishiki International (64cm), Peugeot rat rod (62 cm), Trek 800 Burning Man helicopter bike, Bob Jackson frame (to be restored?) plus a never ending stream of neglected waifs from the Bike exchange.
Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 339 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 632 Times
in
229 Posts
Thanks people,
I will try some of your suggestions.
This is a bike that the Bike Exchange will be selling. If I have to leave everything be - oh well.
On the other hand I would like to make things right.
Also a good teaching moment for this 71 yr old semi pro bike fixer.
I will try some of your suggestions.
This is a bike that the Bike Exchange will be selling. If I have to leave everything be - oh well.
On the other hand I would like to make things right.
Also a good teaching moment for this 71 yr old semi pro bike fixer.
#8
don't try this at home.
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: N. KY
Posts: 5,936
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 973 Post(s)
Liked 511 Times
in
351 Posts
Two things to add to Andy's suggestions:
You can try to put a few drops of gap-filling retaining compound (commonly sold as a 'green' threadlocker) or thick superglue (available from hobby shops) between the gap, and wick it in by spinning the insert. After it cures, it may be enough hold to allow you to remove the screw, and properly re-set the rivnut.
You can try to put a few drops of gap-filling retaining compound (commonly sold as a 'green' threadlocker) or thick superglue (available from hobby shops) between the gap, and wick it in by spinning the insert. After it cures, it may be enough hold to allow you to remove the screw, and properly re-set the rivnut.
It's useful for a lot of unusual gluing jobs. For example, I glued the plastic clip in place on my saddle bag that holds the end of the strap. Green threadlocker is quite specialized, and you may never use up the rest of it.